For RC Upgrades and so much more GO TO www.asiatees.c... A few tricks to get your TT-01 up to par. Most of these methods can also be used on any RC. Visit AsiaTees.com for your RC upgrades.
With the play in the wheels, you also want to add shims between the two bearings in the hub, and then a cone style spring washer behind the drive pin, I have done this on mine and I have zero play and no binding of the bearings at all. I used the kit you can get for a Schumacher sst axis2 you can find the manual for this car online and go to the page where it shows you how to assemble the hubs, this is the same as what I have done, for the Tamiya it’s good to get two sets for the shim packs from the sst
That's brilliant, in its simplicity! I'm going to have to get a big bag of those. Between me and my friend, we have a LOT of ball sockets! Thanks, and I subbed. Murph
That's a good upgrade Steph. I would like to add my 2 cents, if that's OK.... The 5mm shims from Traxxas have a wider O.D. This I think, will spread the load a little more, and also works as a dust shield for the bearings.... I used one on the front inner and outer bearings of my CC-01. Also, same Truck(and I believe this is going to be an issue with several Tamiya hubs!), I nearly got rid of the last couple of thousandths of an inch, by putting a few drops of thick oil between the bearings, inside the hub..... This will of course, require some cleaning for a few days afterwards, because most will seep out. However, enough will stay in the bearings, to take up a good portion of the remaining slack. ...... I DO love Tamiya! They give a retired Auto Mechanic things to keep my mind sharp!! 👍😎😉 ~ Carmine
Also, those o-rings are a GREAT idea! They're not exactly the o-rings that R/C guys are used to - like the ones in dampers. It looks more like sponge rubber. And a perfect size! Where can I get some of those? ~ Carmine
the thick oil does work but like you said it is kind of messy but also causes more drag and more so if it gets into the bearings. I get those washers from work from stuff they toss. maybe ebay has some. I wonder if these would work.. www.ebay.ca/itm/100Pcs-M3-Flat-Spacer-Washers-Insulation-Gasket-Ring-Red-New-/311624499712?hash=item488e448200:g:3McAAOSwepZXTkH1
I'll check those washers out, thanks! They look like such a good idea. I also forgot - drag is not something I would notice, going 4-8mph.... I've been out of the racing scene for too long! The oil works for me, but would kill your performance.
Great video, thank you so much for making it. May I ask what carbon chassis kit that is that you're running and what steering linkage kit that is? Where can I purchase a set up like that? Is it still being manufactured?
This is a 3Racing chassis and some parts too. other parts are GPM and Yeah Racing. You have to basically get all the parts and do it yourself. The TT01 is normally a mid/rear motor setup.
TheLEDwheel The steering links are GPM for an HPI RS4 and the extensions for the steering knuckles are from an HPI Nitro rush. They were chassis mounting parts.
I also have a TT 01 , but it isn't build as yours . Mine's more stable 4WD and is mostly out of plastic , no metal parts . Should i upgrade some parts to metal? Is Weight reduction that important?
Hi, im gonna buy the Tamiya tt-01D kit, and I wonder, does the graphite plate (chassi) from AsiaTees.com fit it? :) it dont say if it is for the tt-01d too... I just wonder.
You want to buy a stock TT-01 kit and then upgrade the chassis? If you are going to go that route I would suggest buying everything after market and building it PRO right from the start. Also, this is soooo not the best car for drifting. Have a look at the sakura D3 instead. It was bread for drifting and is very affordable. They have them at AsiaTees too. Part number is 3R/KIT-SAKURA-D3
Deacon Halsey… I cannot reply directly to your comment so here is my answer to your questions. I am guessing you cannot steer when braking? Do you have a locked Diff in the front? That would cause serious steering issues for sticky tires and should only be used for Drifting. A Car using non drift tires absolutely needs the diff to be functional in the front. If its not locked then you may need to use a One Way diff so the braking does not affect the front. Other than that you would need to give me more details. Join use on "theLEDwheel" facebook page.
As for your Motor coming loose I would need more information like is it the stock motor mount? Stock chassis? What lock Tite did you use and did you shake the bottle before using it?
The steering is more precise therefore handling is increased. When the wheel is loose what happens is the Toe in/out and Caster and camber changes constantly so you never really know what your going to get when to take a corner.
@@TheLEDwheel thank you i already have them along with most of the other upgrades i just wanted to know how to stiffen things up because there is a lot of play in all of the running gear
Electronics as in Motor and ESC or a Radio system? You can get a leopard or ZTW combo system at www.asiatees.com/affiliate?rc_pal=3335313136 Motor and ESC for a drifter I would get something between 3000 and 4000 KV Give or take... I have a 4150 KV in my TT01 For the radio system I run a simple Fly Sky GT3B.... Its very affordable and works well.
not motor but everything a good long lasting battery , nice radio sys and esc and a fast responding servo also how do i get it to look like I'm pulling the ebrake thanks
Erica Clydesdale I use a Fly Sky GT3B Radio. It is very affordable and it works very well. I now have 2 of them and also a GT3C. Go here www.asiatees.com/affiliate?rc_pal=3335313136 Look for SX/SC-1267SG servo and then install a one way diff in front. When you brake it should lock the rear wheels only making it look like an e-brake. If you are buying before June 25th I can give you a discount code. Just ask. Steph
