Tamiya TT-02 Type S race build: HobbyWing 10.5T Motor and ESC Fitting 

You need the 24t pos.

This motor mount ain’t right I used a 21 tooth pinion set it on 21 and wasn’t right it was too slack I had to buy a yeah racing one and set it myself I did t want to risk chewing up the gears this monitor mount deffo crap

Ohh really! Sounds like a very useful little part haha, I'll have to try and find one to keep in the tool box 😄 Thanks man :)

Cheers Bro🤘, love the TL-01 Video. The stadium Raider body looks sweet 👌

RC Empire Thanks 😎 I’ve just uploaded a first run video

David Han It’s normal if the drivetrain moves freely.

The way i think about it is: Smaller pinion = Faster acceleration, less top speed, less strain on system, cooler motor and esc running. Bigger pinion = Slower acceleration, higher top speed, more strain on system, hotter motor and esc I would go for a smaller pinion for longer life. I think for general bashing, a 22 tooth pinion would be perfect. The motor I have is 3800Kv (10.5T) and at the moment i'm going to stick with the 22 tooth pinion with my 68 tooth spur. I've got a few more pinions, and we're going to a test video with all of them and monitor the esc and motor temperatures, so this should help. I'm not really sure what the running temps will be like on this car yet :) I'll let you know when I find out the best combo

I'm running a 3500kv Sensorless (THAT makes a huge difference when choosing gear!). I do Rally, so insane speed is not the main objective.... And Rally is actually somewhat akin to Bashing!! (It's just a more organized version of Bashing!) Anyway, with the stock 70 Tooth Spur (Aluminium replacement) and 19 Tooth Pinion, I've had NO overheating issues. I could even go with a larger Pinion.... But I like the ability to blast out of tight corners! 😜 Just my 2 cents, from a different type of use, from this amazingly versatile machine!!

No haha, maybe the mic was too close when recording the video haha, I had it right by the car 😋. but yeah, it's pretty quiet when running. Yep usually leave them dry, and actually I'm glad I did. I've found when running, little stones and debris somehow get into the casing, and any grease would just stick the dust and stones to the gears and collect it. I think I might try and seal the gearbox against that.

Ha ha mine too my tamiya tt series is has loud sound from gears

Nice, thanks for the heads up with the screws, think that will definitely be one of the upgrades we do when we rebuild the car with the composite chassis. It will be interesting to see how well the stock one hold up, or don't hold up for a couple of month haha. Point taken 😂, I was thinking to play around with a couple of different pinions before I loc-Tite everything down, but if it's that bad, I'll prob put a dab of loc-Tite on now 😅. I guess the interface with the screws and the aluminium motor mount is bound to start vibrating loose.

Ahh the Pinion selection process!! 😂 If that ride is going to be pretty fast, I would really suggest maybe a small drop of blue Loc-Tite on the screws.... They'll still remove fairly easily.... Unless it's just for a lap or two. Tamiya uses soft Screws anyway, besides being Phillips Head!! You don't want something rounded off, right when you need to get at it. If I have a little time to wait.... I'll go on EvilBay and order a bulk of Stainless Steel Screws from a reputable Chinese seller. By that I mean they HAVE to have over 5000 transactions, with a rating of OVER 98.5%!! They only cost about $3-4 for a package of *twenty!!* Unfortunately, they don't have a big selection of flat head, beveled Screws for the bottom of the Pan, but there's so few of those, that I can get a small package of Axial or HPI Screws like that, from a US seller. 😉

Hah, actually I was going to ask where you can get some screws from 😄. Nice 👍. Cool I'll put a little dab on, better safe than very sorry haha.

PoorManRC can you please give a link to where I can buy the hex screws to replace the garbage ones that came with my TT02?

King Nica It's something I just had to search eBay for... The sellers change, unfortunately. 😖 There is a reputable US Seller on eBay called Monster Screws.... They're more Expensive but fast shipping.

Thanks :), Good luck with the build, enjoy it 🙂. I put the first screw into hole number 21 (position F), but this is also hole number 20 (position E) on the reverse, which is the correct hole for the 22 tooth pinion. The hole for the 21 tooth pinion is hole number 19 (position D). BUT interestingly, now you mention it, and very importantly, I'm not sure why I put the screw into the mount from the number 21 side, and not from the number 20 side, because this will make a difference. (Technically I've put the screw into the 23 tooth pinion hole (F)) I've just had a look at the car, and putting the screws in from the number 20 side (correct side) , seems to give a closer mesh (by 1mm), and this is the correct way to do it. So, when you mount the motor, make sure the number 21 is faced down, and the number 20 is facing up. Basically, turn the mount around to what is shown in the video. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for pointing this out.

RC Empire RC Empire Cool, well I am glad I could help in even a small way. I am actually a little more confused now, I assumed the number holes were to match the pinion (hole 16 is for pinion size 16), but that doesn’t seem to be the case. So I’ll be using the stock pinion for now, so does that mean the motor mount should have the 20 signage showing once I’ve mounted it, or should that be facing the motor? It sounds more complicated than I am sure it is!

I guess I’d use hole G with the 22T and stock spur. I think that’s right!

Ahh yes, you're right, the hole number printed on the mount does correspond to the number teeth on the pinion, but only when you are using the standard 70T spur. In the video we have the 68T spur. So yes, in your case, with the stock 22T pinion and stock 70T spur, you would use position G. And yes, make sure the number 22 printed on the mount is showing.

RC Empire Awesome, cheers! Can’t wait to get building (just hope the weather is dry soon!). Look forward to your next videos!

Hi there, honestly in the years we've had it, we've never had a single issue with the pinion and plastic spur. Sill using the original set even running it exclusively on 3S👌. The only issue we've had, is sometimes sones get inside the gear casing somehow and get wedged in the gears, but that's rare.

Hi there. I'd say so. I think it depends on the power of the electronics you'll be running, but the stock plastic one doesn't see very rigid.

@@RCEmpire_HQ thanks!

ok! very thanks! i have a brusslesh 10.5T

Hi there!, thanks :) These ones 😁: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EVs7xFwMhKY.html

Yep. There's a list in the description of Video 11 (summary video), and the "First test run" video just uploaded :)

Ohh really! That's a pain, I would have through the Yeah racing products were all interchangeable. I think the one you can see here is part of the high speed gear set (part: 54500), inside the diffs are stock at the moment on this one. I've never really worked with any of those parts, but I'm surprised they don't fit. Could they be front / rear pairs? and bigger on the rear etc?

Is the CVD too big?

Hi there, Hmm, did you manage to get them off? I normally find an assembly manual and work backwards, if that helps?

Okay so I just replaced the motor and it’s extremely fast and when I push it each turn of the motor cause lots of noise and the shaft kind of vibrates like maybe the plastic won’t hold up because it really feels like the plastic is going to explode

Hi there, hmm i'm not so much of a pro with drifting... yet haha. but I'd say 22 would be a good place to start. I think you could try a smaller one, maybe 2 or so teeth less. Giving you quicker acceleration, letting you get the tires spinning easier and giving you more control of the tires when you're dabbing the throttle. Although this motor seems quite pokey with good acceleration anyway with a 22T pinion. Would be interesting to know what you go for

Well, I'm going to start with this, hehe, I've been on the rc a long time, and it's one of the few things I need to try hahahahaha This is best option for adjust the motor? www.ebay.es/itm/Fastrax-Tamiya-TT-02-Aluminium-Adjustable-Motor-Mount-FTTA020B/372404004106?hash=item56b502250a:g:RiEAAOSwwgNbdW7q

Haha nice, always fun to start a new project 😁. Good luck with it man. It seems pretty good, but I wonder how strong it will be. Although fastrax have been around for a while, so it can't be bad. I've heard great reviews for the Yeah Racing ones: www.yeahracing.com/catalog/yeah-racing-aluminum-adjustable-motor-mount-tamiya-tt02-tt02013bu-p-3311.html

I take note of your advice;) Thank you again

Hi There. You'll definitely need the aluminium motor mount, part 54558 and the aluminium prop shaft, part 54501. The rest of the parts are stock type S parts for now.

@@RCEmpire_HQ thank you I’ll order it right now!

Thanks :) Yeah, I got them from Modelsport UK: www.modelsport.co.uk/contact-rc-tyres-foam-1-10-rear-30mm-37sh-jap-carbon/rc-car-products/406537

Thank you for reply and I will order several off them since I have many TT02 & TT01. I like the sporty look it gives the car. I am new to the RC world. What does 30mm 37 sh vice 26mm 40sh.

Thank you for your reply. I am new to the RC world. Could please the difference between the 30mm 37sh & 30mm 40sh. Thank you

Nice! welcome to RC :) Yeah they definitely add a cool look to the car 😁 Actually I'm not sure how much difference you'll notice between the 37SH and 40SH. I don't think it will be a massive difference, but I haven't tried the 40 ones. :) but basically, the higher the SH number, the harder the foam, and the less grip the tire will have with the track, but the longer the tire will last. The lower the SH number, the softer the Foam, and the more grip it will have, but it will generally wear out quicker. when i'm just bashing in a car park or on rough ground / tarmac, I'll just use some rubber tires. And I save the foam ones for nice, flat, well prepared surfaces, like the track. If the ground is really rough you might damage or cut the foam, especially the softer ones. But I think it depends on the surface you are running on, I went for the 37SH ones first because it's a medium hardness. I'll test them on the track and see if I need softer or harder ones next time 👍

Thank you for the explanation. I truly appreciate because finding someone to ask questions has been difficult to find. I only run my cars indoors in the gym or sometimes in the hallways of a high school.

Hi there :) On most motor mounts, for example the "Yeah racing TT-02 motor mount", you have grooves where the motor mounting screws can slide along, and therefore you have infinite positions that the pinion gear can be in relation to the spur gear. In this case, you would have to mesh the gears manually with a strip of paper etc, and sliding the motor into position, because the motor is free to move along the groove. With this mount however, the holes on the mount are in fixed positions according to the number of teeth the gears have, so once the motor is screwed onto the mount (according to the position specified on the paper at 2.03 in the video) , when you screw the mount back onto the chassis, the pinion should automatically be in the correct position, and should be properly meshed. so you don't need to mess around with setting the mesh with a piece of paper etc. Hope that makes sense :) 👍

RC Empire I completely get what your saying. Only one problem is too tight to do the paper trick, I can tell by just how there is no wiggle room whatsoever. But thanks for replying. And do you know of or why doesn’t anyone or Tamiya offer an aluminum or steel pinion gear?

Ohh really! what gears are you using, and the number of teeth? So if it's the 22 tooth pinion and 68 tooth spur, it should be in position E (hole number 20). (And the number 20 should be facing away from the motor, not like in the video) You mean the spur gear? Actually I'm not sure. In my experience, the plastic Tamiya gears normally hold up really well, and as long as the mesh is correct, the plastic one should last a long time. Although I haven't tested this one out yet :)

Ahh Yes!! Good spot, Thanks

I'm happy

Yep, fully stock