I have about 6500 miles on my green bearings from Dr Diff that he supplied with the new axles I bought from him. I'm sure I'll get 100000 more miles! I almost got caught up in the hype about "No green bearings for street cars!" I appreciate your take on it and I 100% agree with you.
I bought that kit for my valiant. Easy to install at home, used a piece of 1.5” pipe as a slide hammer. I just cut the old ones off. The kit was shipped fast to Canada too, had it in a few days
Good info!As a car guy for 45+years and a master mechanic for 30 years,I have been exposed to many types of bearings in many types of applications. Good parts choice for a given application,(i.e. duty type,operation conditions etc.)proper fit and installation all matter for proper operation and longevity. Thank you!
Thank you! After I made the video, I realized I left out the importance of proper installation. Many bearings are damaged before they ever hit the street due to improper installation.
Great video as always! One thing that helped me make a decision to stay with the tapered roller bearings is because I like to do a lot of high speed cornering. Like road racing, drifting and so on, and the "Green", or Ball bearing type bearings are said to be not as good for side loading. But if you look at most new cars almost all of them just use sealed ball bearings just like the "Green bearings". I'm sure the "Greens" are just fine as a daily!
My friend you can't argue with physics and real world testing the tapered bearing is superior to the ball bearing in load capability and side loading.... the sealed ball bearing can live in the same application just not as long in life compare it to the newer sealed for life transmissions that never get a fluid change how many go over the 200k mile mark?.... A serviceable part can live a very long life. Got a 98 Ford escort with over 350k.
Upon researching best practices to rebuild a 8 3/4 i found myself going down this rabbit hole on the interwebs recently and Ive been reading up on this debate as well as well. Thanks for these vids they are helping alot of folks!
It's nice to know your options! If you know you'll never run a spool, you can remove all doubt and use the tapered. It's no fun to "worry" about what you've assembled. Thanks for watching !!
You know that we're talking about the rear axle but as you know that the front has tapered bearings and are always serviced when you do the brakes which means cleaning inspecting and repacking... way longer life. And tapered bearings have a larger contact patch for the bearing you can't fight physics. It's easy you have a drag car that only will ever see straight line duty green bearing make total sense and if you have a light A body for street driving their good there... But now if you have a heavier B or C body tapered bearings are the way to go! And if you have a G-machine old mopar that weighs 3800lbs that will see lots of heavy loading of the suspension in curves then the tapered bearings are the only choice! There is a very good reason for trains to use the roller bearing!..... Yeah I know modern vheicles use sealed ball bearing style but usually only go 100k and are not cheap for the OEM versions to replace. Just did the front brakes in my son's 97 Chevy van and the tapered front bearings we're perfect even after over 150k on the clock cleaned and repacked ready for another 50k till the next brake job. Don't understand why anyone would argue green bearings have there place and will easily last over 100k in the right applications and when you want the ultimate in side loading and weight bearing with long life and service ability tapered bearings are king. By the way I had new set of timkens for the Chevy van they are made in Poland.
There you are !!!!! You are correct the tapered bearings are road-war proven and have more bearing surface !!!! Also, many vans and pickups have green bearings in the 8.25 rear end and have gone many many miles, often loaded with lots of weight.
@@moparnut6286 Hey, this made me laugh because it instantly made me think of the Dodgge Van races in Japan ! They are funny ! Here is the link if you haven't seen it !! Funny !!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7U2BC5sOltU.html
Thanks for the video, very helpful for a newbie trying to figure out which style bearings to go with. Ended up getting tapered bearings from Dr. Diff for my weekend cruiser '65 Dodge Custom 880.
I made a button for my spool and ran with the tapered bearings but that was just to get the spool in the car, the bearing were original. I was bending the 8 3/4 so I went to a dana s60 shortly after. All my 8.8 ford bearings (same as green bearing)lasted years street and strip duty. Good info right here.
I bought a rear end with a spool in it .. It had a solid floating button.. With timkin bearings.. But its pushing bearing load from axle to axle... Becouse the axles and button are all floating...
For my project 65 dart a couple years back i bought an A body 8-3/4 that had the factory axles small bolt pattern and leaf springs . sold the springs and axles to a buddy who want the small bolt pattern parts . bought a 489 case that came out of a 78 truck with 3:91 gears peg leg . my goal is to swap the peg leg guts to a sure grip section since my dart will be for daily driving and once in a while to the drag strip. I to have watched and listened to the arguments over green bearing kits vs the factory tapered adjustable bearings . I was planning on going with the Dr. diff kits as well as the Dr. diff none adjustable crush ring kit for 35.00 bucks . Thanks for the part number tip . Hope you and the family are having a happy thanksgiving 😎🦃🏁
Great show.... I agree with every thing you said... I use the timkins in my stock rear ends and i have greens in 66 valiant.. Just a budget build 3:23 suregrip.. Its a driver no issues. And i have greens in my 66 barracuda.. Its a street strip car.. That uses a trutrac on the street and a spool on strip.. As you say no center button in either.. And no adjustments makes changing centers easy...
Great info! I've tended to stick with the ol' tapered roller out of familiarity, but planning to run greens in the Dart Sport when I go through the 8 3/4 in it. As a dedicated drag car, there's no downside I can think of. Ever see the axle bearings Pro Stocks are running? Double row of ceramic ball bearings! I think the green bearings are plenty exotic enough for me, LOL.
I've been running Mopars since 1968.I have some Green Bearings I got back in the 80s. My buddy who had a bearing supply company gave me a bunch N/C. The only advantage I can see is if you are road racing or circle track you would probably have a better thrust load rating with the tapered rolling bearing. Check with Bearings Inc. They have all the data on both types. I'm retired and hopefully never have to change one. My 71 Demon 340 only has 14,300 original miles. I should be good till 2070!😅
I'm in the process of assembling my 8.75 to replace the 7.25 my Scamp came with. I've heard many mixed things but i'll be ordering the greens since it's currently in pieces, and they look a lot like that axle you had in the video (rusty)! thanks!
So my '70 Bee's axle housing looks like it was marinating in a swamp for the past 50 years. Starting from scratch with everything. Didn't know there was a different, better, newer green bearing. Although I prefer tapered, if I can't salvage the other stuff, I just may consider the MO400's!
I am running green bearings (disc brake conversion stipulation) no dramas yet only done 2000 ish kilometres. Ya know I dont remember which type I used,
Thanks for the video. Also how are peoples opinions on the strenthg of 8 3/4 axles ? How much power are people putting on them ? I'm about to get rid of nine inch and put an 8 3/4 in , hoping to gain a tiny bit of power (-: and make it all mopar again
Often it's a jarring start (like a clutch being dropped with a car that won't spin and has power) that's hard on axles. If you upgrade to 35 spline, that helps as well.
Thanks for the video. I just picked up my a-body BBP axles from Dr. diff today at my local UPS store. I ordered them with the green bearings installed. So I grabbed the bearings with my right hand and spun the axle shaft with my left hand, but the bearings and axle shaft spin together? Is this normal?
Hey boss me and my son just got us a 76' dodge Aspen R/T 318 auto and was wondering if you might could help us out with a 4 barrel intake and carb it's just a little 2 barrel now good little carb just like to go 4 barrel let us no love your vids
Rode around in a '76 Aspen R/T 318 manual shift when I was young! Fun cars! I would look for a dual plane, something of a Weiand Action plus or eddy performer and something around 600 cfm's. You can use the 2bbl linkage if you are willing to work with it some. I made a vid on that also.
With a green bearing which is a sealed bearing, unlike the tapered bearing, why do you need the seal anymore? I don’t run the seal anymore. Counterintuitive
Yeah but the seal is another barrier against dirt which is the enemy of any bearing seen many a modern sealed bearing go bad from water and dirt intrusion.
@@moparnut6286 I understand and good point. But the dirt and water is coming from the outside into the bearing. The inner seal is inside the tube. If you have water and dirt coming in that way you have a whole other problem LOL
Question. I'd installed Green bearings on my axles. I had switched from an open diff to a sure grip. Both are 741 cases. I removed the button from the sure grip unit. The axles start to go back into the housing, but will not seat fully. I don't want to beat on the shafts & I've tried turning while pushing. Any suggestions?
@318willrun The one thing I didn't do was try to set the axles before I installed the carrier. I'd figured the counts would be the same as both were 741 cases. For some reason, I'm thinking it might be the bearings. I'm going to keep trying. Pulling the carrier back out is my last resort. Thanks.
Going from 3.73 to 2.94 will flatten the snap from a start some, but it will cruise on the highway much better and it may not be as lazy as one might think
I've got a 7.25 rear end in a stock 318 auto dodge Aspen R T I no there trash but I'm on a budget for awhile I've welded my spider gears up it had some missing teeth how dangerous is this I have not installed yet
Well, missing teeth isn't a good thing ! You'll know if the teeth sheer. I've had a few 7.25 and I've never lost one. I didn't apply a ton of power to them either.
@@johnr.4853 yes sir when I was running the fender tag number trying to decode it which is fun to me lol one of the numbers said special order rear end I was hoping sweet someone got a sure grip are something but low and behold good ole 7.25 pulled diff cover and had a few missing teeth on spider gears 2.76 gears maybe they was after highway mpg's
first time viewer. immediately put off by camera angle. Too much light behind the subject auto exposure balances for all that by making the fore ground too dark to see any detall. but im going to watch and see if your knowlege of rear axle bearings is better than your film production
tough customer, but I like constructive criticism. No professional crew here... just a guy and his wife sharing normal car stuff with a cheap camera ! 🙂
We need a link to your channel to see how a professional makes videos. Personally if I cared about the camera angle and lighting I'd buy a tv and watch tv commercials.
Great video! Sorry but I'm one of the no green bearing guys, a friend of mine had a 72 Demon he mini tubbed and narrowed the 8.75, he used the green bearings and they kept leaking, lots of curves and hills here where I live, he put a stock rear back in it and my brother bought it and put it under a mini tubbed 71 Scamp, same problem after he got it. But now after seeing your video and learning about the snap rings maybe they might be worth looking into again! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching !! No need to apologies to anyone for running the tapered bearings. Proven to work for decades! Yes, for sure the snap ring green bearings are the way to go if a guy is going Green LOL
In concurrence with “moparnut62”, green (ball) bearings are not designed for thrust loads. Tapered bearings are. Ball bearings are fine as a weekend warrior shooting the 1/8 or 1/4 mile gap! They have their place in certain applications, otherwise it’s a risk, your choice. Daily and shooting the gap on occasion, tapered hands down…just some food for thought bro. Good luck!
Tapered bearings are extremely tough and wear exceptionally well. But to be fair, 7.25 and 8.25 rear ends come factory with green bearings. Many of them go 200,000 miles issue free. I fully get those axles/housings were designed for green bearings, but I'm saying green bearings failure in general is a good design.
@@318willrun my preference is tapered but at the same time if you’re comfortable with something and you know the pros and cons, I say go for it! Manufacturers make improvements all the time, who knows maybe I’ll flip the switch one day…I try to keep open minded. Hope you get many miles bro, good luck!
@@stevehamilton9418 Thanks man! IF it would have had good tapered bearings, I'd have stuck with them. The biggest thing is if using green bearings, use the ones with the snap ring - that is a must in my opinion.
