Haha yep i had a 1000 watt Coustic amp pawn shop special on 2 kicker comp 15s in the late 90s that was a good 18" long or more easily! Went to a soundstream reference 500sx after that which finally gave out recently. Finally went class D with a Fosgate 500 mono block. Amazing how small it is for the power output. Literally half the size of the ref 500. That taramps 12k is a beast though damn!
You are going to continue to have issues if you keep mounting your amp on your enclosure! Mount that monster in a spot with some deadener behind it. You will also need an upgraded alternator.
Garlicbread Riders - Yes he does, and honestly he should have a least two Mechmans for that kind of power. That amp needs stable high power at all times. There is a trade off with budget power. A top notch Orion or Rockford amp can withstand instability, but not Taramps, so the trade off is spending thousands on electrical instead of thousands on amps. You can fight it all you want, but you will eventually lose.
He explained everything at mark 9:00, the first amp came damaged, second and he shorted the speaker outputs, and now he's on his third amp. So for all you ragging on the MD 12000 the only problem I see was in packaging and shipping on the first amp. I've own Brazilian ams for over 5 years with not a single problem. Ds18 fr6000 Korean made amp. Prv 8000d, Taramps md8000.1. (2) taramps 1200x4 and (2)MD 1800.1. like I said I've never had a single problem out of any of them, I will never go back to those high prices Korean based amps.
It certainly doesn't have to be a full on sponsorship, but I'm sure an amp company would be willing to give him a good quality high power amp to run their their brand in his testing vehicle. They would get showcased in every video. Taramps gets this for free every video right now
Next issue I can see is I noticed alot of flex on that wall, that will take out/kill any amp, Amps hate vibrations, and indeed they need a ton of support, just got my sd12k and I'm being recommended to run 3 banks of 35ah lithium and triple inputs, I own a ds18 hooligan spl 5k also and I absolutely love the look and the feel of that 5k, puts out what it claims if not alittle more, but would definitely be more careful on swapping things back and fourth on them amps and be sure to figure out a good spot where it will get little to no vibrations or be able to flex the board, Amos will last forever if you take the proper precautions
Flex!? It looks like he built it from 1/4 inch it flexes so much. Yes that’s the issue. It’s him he can’t see that he is destroying his own stuff? Omg these kids
@@guyww8516 not to mention that he's gotten the wrong amp. These are meant for mids and large woofer systems. Kind of like what you see the Russians driving around with 20 12" woofers. It even tells you on the box that it's not necessarily meant for subwoofer applications, that's the whole reason they have their "Bass" line of amplifiers.
Thanks for being honest and owning up to it, and making us aware. I'll own up to mine. I pulled out my Skar rp1500.1d and assumed I knew which was the power wire vs ground 4g. I should've easily looked and double checked. Well I hooked up power and ground reverse in the amp. When I go to put the battery on, the fused connection after the battery saved my ass. Lit up and melted the 150 amp ANL fuse. I corrected it the next morning when I figured out what happened. The amp works fine, no issues. It's the Taramps Smart 3.
@@nnnvv2121 mine heats up too easily for what I want it to do. Running rp1500.1d on skar svr 15. Sometimes two 15s. Either way it heats up on short drives and below full tilt so meh
When you shorted the terminals, you killed some output fets. They were shorted. And the amp went into protect avoiding further damage. When you power cycled, the amp has a delay built in on the protect circuit to allow it to start while its charging caps, checking systems and initializing drivers. That delay was enough to allow the amp to power on the power supply into a short(the output fet(s) that got damaged durind the short of the leads. This most likely cooked the remaining output fets on the affected bank, the power supply fets are probably done and the class d drivers. I would recommend anyone with a taramps that if you trow it into protect, at least by shorting terminals or blowing speakers, DO Not power it back up. At a minimum, put a meter on the output terminals to see if they are shorted. When the fets die, most of the time the short. Ideally i would open it and check all the fets, but that means voiding the warranty.
Nah it would be illegal for them to void your warranty by opening the amp up and removing a warranty sticker. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lDNg3WYaAAc.html They'd have to prove that you damaged the device by opening it.
this is what exactly happened to me with my brand new md12k taramps.... i added some dual 0 gauge inputs on each input and accidentally one of the + wires from the battery bank touched the body and sparked heavily (pRRRRRAAAAAKKKKKKKKKKKKK!!!) the amp was hooked up during this and i finished up and turn the music on and the amp went in protect so i turned it off and immediately turned it back on after about 5 secs and boom i head a pop inside te amp.....opened it up and the output mosfets (some of them) were blown and yea i ca bet the drivers are gone>
As someone who has a vehicle where a high output alternator DOESNT exists (other then power bastards but I’m not risking that after the reading I’ve done) seeing you run 12k with a stock alt is dope! I’ve been slowly learning more about what to do and how to do stuff with car audio and your channel has been my go to for learning stuff.
Here in Brazil we really like Taramps amps, it's really cool to see it's becoming famous around the world. I give more importance to it's sound quality and real power (most times higher than the declared by the brand) than to a premium feeling, and never had so many problems with those amps. Maybe you could give more space between the subwoofers and the amp, it would prevent the amp of vibrating as much causing problems to it's components. Nice video!
You've reminded me, I need to install a legit fire ext. in my Project Fire Hazard. It has that name for a reason, and my lil RZR-2500D gets hot running 1ohm. But, now that my 12v power has been strengthened, should help it. I know this from watching Taramps catch fire from running undervolted. Edit: I have installed a legit auto/RV fire ext. since this post. $14 from Wal-Mart.
I can tell you that most of the failures with most of the fullbridge amplifiers like The taramps md 12k , are how the fans push air inward on the fets. If any debris contacts and shorts the fets... well it's a mini 4th of july show. Fullbridge amplifiers will get better over time. In the meantime, just use some sort of dust filter with limited air flow restrictions. This will keep them from collecting debris. I have repaired a few fullbridge amplifiers and discovered this issue to be one of the main reasons. Shout out to Barvids for his knowledge and I know he is more knowledgeable as he has taught me a lot .
I have the MD8000 and one day the fans were louder than normal, i went to check it out and i hit the amp hard with my had, fans went back to normal and the amp started playing allot louder, checked the gain setting with the DD1 and still no distortion, go figure, it likes a good spanking once in a while... i got to give it to Taramps it makes the power but very flimsy built.
Man good thing to see someone be honest and say hey it was my fault i did the damage, i followed you for a really long time and you have came a very long way Parker dont stop now! Hope your new 12k makes it longer than 6 months keep it up man
You realize you're supposed to buy the BASS series for your subs right? Those are meant for extremely large mids and woofer systems like they do in Russia and shit
@@sethh8892 I've owned several of both, couldn't tell any difference between them. Not saying there isn't a difference, just saying they sounded the same to me, but I use my own pre amp eq.
It's issues we all deal with my friend. The dos and donts we all learn from. I completely understand some of reasons to watch out for on certain amps like that Taramp. I have had many amps blow on me. There are some that just don't handle what we want them to. Thanks for sharing my friend.
Grace and peace Parker. I love your content. I had a question. What was your electrical when you were running this if you remember? I'm about to run of these, the .5 ohm version at .67 ohms. I have 3 AGM Deka Intimidators, stock alt and the big 3 with 0 gauge. I'm looking for a 300 amp alternator for a 07 Civic.
Haha I done a similar thing to my pioneer amp, car was off but I decided I wanted to but a wire ferrule on my 12v + - and didn't even think to disconnect battery for the simple job, carefully done - easy then doing the + I acidently dropped it and it welded to the body of the amp and actually took a good 10 seconds of glowing until it popped the fuse, it actually popped my radio fuse as well so maybe went up RCA? Anyway a nice arc mark on my amp and it worked no problems. I just get on and off pops now from the radio, even when changing radio station :(
I had taramps for the last 4 years. I killed it by shorting the speakers leads, but it got repaired and it's still working fine. I like how small taramps are and how much power they can push out.
@@shaquiloneale1850 It's a great amplifier. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vyh2mpEbxcw.html It can delivery more than 500 watts at 14.4V
Be careful buying these from SHCA (sky high car audio). I got one that came in with a fan assembly rolling around in the amp. I sent them videos and pictures. They agreed that it was damaged in shipping, but refused to pay for return shipping. Their logic was "well we paid to ship it to you, and are going to pay to ship you another one, so you can pay $30+ to send it back to us." lol
Sky high must suck if that’s how they treat customers. A good company that wants repeat business would never do that. Creative audio, crutchfield and CT sounds are good to deal with.
Ive always bought Korean made amps. Yes they are more expensive bought i have never had any issues with any of the 4 that ive purchased heck 2 of them i ran at half ohm for over a yr no problem only reason for getting rid of them is for upgrade reasons. I love Korean amps because at least the ones i owned was hugely underrated and did 500-1000 or more than what they was rated for.
Shorting speaker leads , to high an input voltage , and screwing them to the sub box will fuck them up. Keep them fed and dont do the other 3 things and your brazillian amp will last. Or should i say full bridge rail voltage amp, every company is making a copy of them now.
😯DAAAMN bro!!! I've had my STETSOM 8K for almost a year never had a problem with it yet! But I ordered it directly from the manufacturer NOT a dealer!!!
It's funny you mention that cause my.buddy keeps bad mouthing my Stetson 3k and he brags that his md taramps 3k us better than my stetsom. He claims that my Stetsom will burn up on me before his does. And then I seen this video. I've personally only had some heating issues but once I bought a fan , I now have no more heating issues with my Stetson and its actually slamming so hard with my single 15 zvx.
@@RomaVilla I meant to say above 12 volts! But I got 3 setups right now bro. But the STETSOM is powering two Memphis LVS 15's while I prepare to start my wall build
Wow i guess im lucky cause i have lithium in my truck and 3 times the lithium has touched ground and it was 4th of july inside my truck smh 😬 both my Taramps MD 12000 did go into protection mode but came back on and are still playing. 🤷🏽♂️ even on time the ground slipped out of the lithium terminal and touched power, sparks and smoke as u guessed but both amps still played sooo 🤷🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️ what can i say these amps are tanks for me
wow parker!! i always wonderd why you used taramps! they have so maney car amplifiers on amazon. its insane!! lucky we got you awesome u tubers that test stuff out and save us consumers the hearteach! saving both sides from the crap on the market!!
I went through 4 skar amps and I'm still trying to get a good one from them. they were all brand new. some were defective others arrived damaged from skar (not shipping.) I love their subs. the amps really disappointed me. I'm going to try one more time before I switch to a different brand. skar customer service is really good. I'm thankful for that.
Do these amps sound good? I’m looking for some quality sounding power for a decent price. I need a lot of power like these provide but I probably am just listening at normal levels 80% of the time. Do these sound clean enough for that kind of use or are they mainly just good for getting loud?
I had the same thing happen on an 8K accidentally shorted the remote line to the speaker with the car off apparently there was some voltage enough to pop whatever internally but it never came on again sent it back got another one cuz it was a third party warranty through SquareTrade but I've owned four or five now of the taramps MD yes they're not top quality yes the fans are loud but I honestly have no other complaints definitely best bang-for-the-buck for anyone out there looking
As a retired amp repair guy your # 1 issue is having the Amp on the box u will introduce alot of vibration which may make your transformer windings rub together and offset the power supply and hurt your fets or keep going into protect and u can't figure why
How the heck did you get the SHCA dual fuse holder covers on? I have such a hard time fitting them after even using a 16ton hydraulic crimp. Nice video BTW. Thank you! Now I’ll just save for some B2’s.
Been beating my 5000.1 Taramp with (3) 950 batteries and (2) 200 Amp circuit breakers. (1) 12 D2 FI Audio 4500 watts in a 38hz tuned box sitting in my E350 Benz , mad Bass never been disappointed!
You need to put some padding between the subs and the amp so that the amp is not taking so much vibration from the box. It's probably rattling the components to death. It will help with the shock waves
Thank you bro, you made the shit so simple. I hate these fake tech people who think they know it all. Just show me the setup and the rest history 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Up in smoke! Well there goes your chances (up in smoke) at Taramps sponsoring future episodes 😆 Actually, now they may feel more inclined to, to prove themselves. As they should❗btw I greatly appreciate the honesty and unbiasedness you provide. Please don't EVER allow ANYONE OR ANY COMPANY to persuade your opinion. That trait alone will ensure your channels success. Please make a video showing how many dBs more you can get by going from one sub, to two identical subs!? Does it increase by 3 dB (doubling output)? I'd think this topic ought to go viral.
Did u build ur own headway set up? I have bought some but don't know a great deal about them so they are still in the box they came in. I'm not sure if I need a balancer or how to charge them exactly. I want to make something for all of them to fit in also, some sort of casing. Not sure if u have any videos about the headway cells or not.
I made the same error on a SoundQubed S12250. I shorted out the pos and neg output wires and it went into protect, but it also fried most the mosfets. Anyway, I believe they should have sent me a new amp because its supposed to go into protect to keep it from frying but it did not. It did go into protect but it fried and stayed in protect. B.S! They charged me $120 to fix it and I had to pay to ship it to them. Was my fault, but like you said, " thats what the protection is supposed to be there for."
What brand are your dual inputs? and what is the lowest voltage you get there? is that the only amp you have on your system? I have 225ah lifepo4 lithium cells and my voltage drops down to 11.85v at 100% volume i have 1 bass 8k tamps for 2 HCCAs 15" and 1 MD8000 for Mids and 1200 for tweeters. Is your lowest voltage drop with car on or off?
The problem is that the protection circuit in these Taramps takes a while to kick on and isn't fast enough so you can't really trust it for that. The second amp would be worth repairing though
Apocalypse 7900.1 snag one before the price doubles man. I did. 649. It replaced the 7800.1 which went up to 1199..... now the 7900 is 649 but for sure will double to 1200. Bro..... it's def bonce and soundigital together.....8000 watts at 12 volts... I have a 3800.1 too and it went from 499 to 799!!! Cannot beat that 7900.1 price!!!!!! Snag one bro!!!!
Last week i burnt up my soundigital evo 5k, it had amazing rms power! One the Moffetts burnt. I now have bought the taramps smart 5 bass, does 2 through .5 ohm, its a beast!! Hands down amazing raw rms compared to my evo 5k... the smart 5 bass has dual power inputs and is same size as my buddys soundigital evo 8k ...
I have the smart5 as well, im only running 2 evl 12s, so I haven't seen the full potential yet. But it's ridiculous! Those 12s won't last much longer, wich will give me a reason to buy new subs 😄. What you running?
Hey Parker could you please tell me why did you decide to go to bass 8k vs 2 md12’s. Also could you tell me if I will notice a difference from a bass amp vs Md if using the head unit crossovers. I love my headway cells by the way thank you.
Nice amps, too bad about the internal protection though With that said, you might want to consider adding dust filters on the intakes of those fans - I was watching another video where the reviewer was complaining about dust and debris buildup in his Taramp amp, which eventually lead to failure.
Dang Parker! I blew my hcca the same way. Disconnected to slide box over, wires touched and the chassis at same time, loud pop, and my hcca went into bezerk mode. It completely fried my small sundown sae 50.4, but the hcca still sorta worked. It made a odd noise after it was first cut on, then while playing at loud volume it got distorted , and subs would pop. Sent it to Orion, they shipped it back the next day. Said no problem found. Im like, did yall test it? Cause it will power up fine, but makes funny sound inside amp, then pops or distorts at high volume. I just decided to call it a loss and go with 2 smart 3ks. Problem solved.
Brooo, I bought taramps 3000 amp last year in india. My bro in usa recommended it to me as it was cheap af compared to other amps. BUT when I got it I saw it’s build quality was below average. It lasted only 7 months that too on a 1000 watt sub on 2 ohms. Now I have sundown audio amp and it’s running like a champ.
@Parker Dichille I am trying to set up a American bass elite 1544 with the PH 2500 MD V2 do u think this would be a good combo for a set up...what wiring do u recommend for this
everything he said is true these amp make crazy power but they are very easy to kill ..did the exact thing with an 8k we were changing the box on one in a bmw and the system woke up and the leads shorted ...but for the money you cant go wrong
I haven’t killed my 12K yet in my big build vehicle I have 1000ah of reserve for both of my 12k’s with a XS Power D975 powering the mids and highs amp it’s like 100ah for my Crescendo Symphony 1k and that does amazing for that, but anyway I have 4 Mechman 370a alts plus my stock 90a alt charging the XS Power D975. And I have had everything running for about 4 years now. Note everything is on switches except my Crescendo so I can turn off my amps to avoid those problems all together.
What happened to the Audiopipe amp? I have had great luck with the one I bought. It's only a 2k. Have you looked the Alphard amps, they seem nice and pretty inexpensive?
I have a Deaf Bonce 13K amp and it looks so beautiful! Lol it only costs me $1000... I haven’t installed it yet due to the fact that I need to buy more stuff for it like new alternator, more batteries, etc etc. I might just put the DB amp in my car and have it sit there lol
Your install is clean. wiring looks very professional. But like mentioned below you need to change how your amp is mounted. the more you can reduce vibration the longer your amp will last you. Granted the entire vehicle vibrates so can't eliminate all the vibration but help reduce it. Glad someone can admit they made the mistake that caused second amp to die. It's easy to point a finger and post a negative review. I've been running my MD8000.1 for a year and no problems what so ever. No one has ever claimed Taramps to be top of the line but definitely best bang for your buck!
The amp is mounted to a wall (with rubber grommets) that is not connected to my box. The Failures had nothing to do with vibration. One was damaged in shipping and the other was my fault. Live and earn haha! They really are the best bang for the buck
funny thing is when I had had a pioneer amp I upgraded to a fosgate amp and failed to realize that the power terminals were backwards so I connected it the same I turned it on but nothing happened so I went to check it and realized I had screwed up luckily I flipped them and got lucky cause the amp still works to this day it took a beating like a champ with massive voltage drop now it bangs harder after I had upgraded the alt. Maybe I got lucky the amp should have blew up but it didnt although im looking for something around the same power and is more efficient its a r1200 prime.
Wats up Parker? Can you confirm if these MD models will pick up frequencies below 30hz? Thinking about getting the MD5000.1 for my setup. I'm replacing my ORION XTR4000.1
And this is why I run Korean half bridge. Beat them like rented Mules daily and they just take it for car after car! Got one system all JL thats 10 years old still sounds amazing and can bang! My DC audio system has been in two delivery cars so it’s been played almost non stop for 5 years now and it’s all still going good! Did have to replace one battery and a few highs and mids but that was my fault not the equipment! Well sort of!
Personally, I prefer a solid Korean half bridge, even though the size and cost are both bigger. They are just more reliable and well made overall, assuming you got a good brand. Amp prices are really high right now. 9k Wolfram used to be $900-$1000 but now it's $1300-$1400 for the same amp because of tariffs and crap.
You need a ton of amperage on tap for that big amplifier.. Multiple AGM's or a 100 amp hour lithium. Even if you aren't driving it hard. Realistically, you should have two alternators as well for that size amp.
Hi. Thanks for the tips on the Taramps. What about, can you link me to the dual 2/0 inputs you have on there?! Those are dual 2/0 inputs on there aren’t they? I don’t want to get incorrect inputs. Thanks.
The reason you have to keep replacing that amp is because taramps can’t take direct vibration that well. Mounting a taramps on a subwoofer enclosure would never last and will always fail. Mount the amp somewhere else and you will not have to replace it again. And put rubber feet on it too.
