Your channel just popped up in my suggested videos and I'm so glad it did. Great video with even greater info my man. Thank you for sharing this knowledge with the car audio community it is very much needed and appreciated.
Brah, Finally a good explanation between the difference. Your vid has provided me the necessary information needed for my subwoofer amplification purchase. Thx muh, dude!
I just ran across this video. Excellent info and definitely on point! I run 4 MD 8000.1s on 4 PSI Platform 5 18s in a 6th order. I can play 14-45 hz at decibel ratings over 160. One other point that I wanted to add to your list was that I believe as Sam from Barevids believes the the MD series amps can sound just as good as the Bass series with a decent DSP or electronic crossover before it. In short the Bass series has a better preamp input section than the less expensive MD series. This can be easily fixed with an electronic crossover to cut out the 60-90 hz the MD series lets through on its own. I will be sharing this vid a bunch so hopefully you will gets some more views and get this info out to the masses.
@@850CANE Honestly only if you have the money to afford the extra electrical support needed for it. You will need an extra battery in the rear and preferably a high output alternator along with runs of 1/0 audio or 2/0 welding wire. Also make sure your input voltage is less than 2 volts. Good luck 🤞👍
@@Widowmaker2828 thanks bro. I have a 320 amp alternator on the way from auto tech. Currently have a stock 120 amp, xs power 3400 under hood with two ioxis super caps in the rear. Right now i have a smart 3 bass on two Sundown SA Classic 12s. I went from a jp23 to the smart 3 bass and it was a substantial improvement but right when it starts to hit like I want my clip light flashes. I don't know if the new alternator is going to help much with that so I've been thinking about going up to a 5k. I'm pretty new to all this so I didn't have a grasp of impedance rise of I would have went with a 4 or 5k to begin with. Now I'm at the point I've spent so much already I've gotta try to get the most bang for my buck. I'm a believer in Taramps after getting this one. I can still return it to Amazon and upgrade. I just didn't know if I should go bass, smart bass or just go with a md5k. My DSP allows me to adjust the input voltage to the amp to whatever I want. I'd love to get a big Korean board but jeez they're expensive. I don't want to get a 3,500 watt Korean and wish I'd have just gotten a Brazilian or Chinese 5k at the end. Thoughts? I appreciate the help
@@850CANE If it were me I'd go with the Smart 5k Bass amp. It is more impedance rise and input voltage friendly than the MD8K. Just keep your input voltages within spec and your voltage above 13 and you should be golden with whatever you choose. 👍
i have the md 1800 running 15 gravity warzone, and holy shit, this amp is amazing, i dont think im gonna ever get anything other than TARAMPS from now on
what bugs me when someone says "well that amp puts out dirty power" then Steve Meade, Big D Wiz or Jason Jones has a video putting the amp on the amp dyno and running it in both certified and uncertified.....so if its dirty hows it reading pretty much anything up to distortion? but you know electrical engineers with a Masters degree from Facebook university are the world leading experts in this stuff apparently lol.
And yeah I agree Taramps are the best bang for the buck. Dude I seen a smart 3 do over 5k @ 0.5 ohm... And a HD3k over 4k @0.7 ohm. All of em are monsters I dunno how y'all do it but I love Taramps small package Nuclear warhead power
I just got a Recoil Dii3300.1D for my latest upgrade. It looks just like the Taramps MD on the inside. It certainly puts out great for an amp that is 9in x 7in x 4in. It's never overheated even when I beat the snot out of it. It easily put out 65v AC without even maxing it out.
Great video man! I’ve been trying to find some info on taramps and this answered pretty much all my questions. But I’m still a little confused on what you said with the Hp and Lp filters being turned all the way down for subs on the MD series. Can you elaborate on that a little?
I would love to see u throw the rp in there too..but thanks on the info about the HD cuz I've only heard aboit the md, Rp, smart and bass..I'd like for u to threw in the smart too though lol
I LOVE my MD8k. Its surprisingly stout for the shit i've put it through. I usually run it at 15.6-15.8 at 1 ohm on my c max lithium bank. I eventually plan to run 3 of them at half ohm but with some crazy electrical upgrades hopefully and a much larger lithium setup. May go bass 8k though not entirely sure just yet.
The reason this question is asked so often is likely because Taramps has so many product lines (HD, MD, BASS, SMART, SMART BASS, etc), but they really don't explain why to choose one over another. I realized this was the reason I was resistant to thier products.
Hey bro question... How is the hd3000 able to push near 4k at 1ohm but has less caps ect inside it than the bass 3k and smart 3k.. and btw the the hd is running my VXf 15 D2 and it does it very well btw lol it's a lil monster I feeds the Vxf 3400 watts daily
When do you consider how to wire low if you need need to account for impedance rise when subs are playing to get full potential from amp without possibly blowing amp
When you say the MD series doesn't have as good sounding bass, are you referring to their preamps? If you bypass them and use a dsp, do they then sound identical for bass? I'm assuming yes.
Can I run my two Bass 8Ks at 0.35 (on 120ah Yinlongs and 390a alt) so I rise to 0.7 - 1 ohm at peak freq (which as you know is the lowest ohm) whereas I've been running at 0.7 ohm which rises to approx 1.5 ohm (up to 5 ohm at other freqs)
Man, looking at that old school fine china cabinet makes me nervous lol. Reminds me of my grandma's place which is why I'm so nervous. Seeing the glass shelving bow in the middle is making me shreek. But regardless thanks for all the awesome information man.
China cabinets are terrifying. All that glass and the noises it makes when opening it up or touching it is simply terrifying. THEY'RE ALL SENTIENT AND THAT JIGGLING NOISE THEY MAKE IS THEM FEASTING ON OUR FEAR!!
Got a 3k bass going to be hooking it up to 4 12" cerwin Vega strokers. The new ones not the older ones. Hopefully it will be enough. They are 1000 rms each but will see. They are dual 2 ohm and they are going in a grand marquis lol. Funny just heard him say that.
Best taramp video I've seen hands down, but I still wouldn't run taramp in my pride and joy. However this is a very well articulated video that should deliver a great experience for the viewers that have questions about the product 😀
@@TManMusicPage honestly I do run taramp in my pickup. Recently I switched back over to Korean board. DS18 3.5 to exact. And the difference between the lows is phenomenal. Night and day ! So it's safe to say I'm staying on the Korean side until the Brazilian boards start coming equipped with a bass knob lol
@@anglerandy5736 then why don't taramp use a little more innovation that'd include a bass knob 🤔? A lot of the so-called less innovative Korean companies sure have. Clearly a bass knob isn't structured in the design, but the question is why? I have my opinionated answer to that question, but maybe MASTER KILLA will do a video on that 🤔! I'd be interested to see 👀this video 😉
Hay bro I has a question. I have the 2000x4 the 2 ohms model an I have 2 DS18 8s 8 ohms an 2 DS18 10s 8 ohms as well mid-range..I want to bridge them what is the final impedance output all speaker wired separately from the box going to the amplifier. Can get some advice on that please and thank you
I have the bass 3k and it puts out plenty of clean power. I ordered a MD8000.1 used and pretty much the guy tried to rip me off, sold me a demolished amp so it's going back and when I get my refund I will just order one that's brand new. I love the brand so far.
And to let some of these people know how much I like taramps, I sold 2 JL audio amps just to get my md8000. And I absolutely loved those 2 JL amps. They were my babies.
I'm looking to get the world shaking bass of the md but I have to wire to half ohm I have 2 dual 2ohm subs I planned this build with 1 but want more bass so which one should I go with and what ohm should I wire it too I'm going to run 2 sundown x15v3 dual 2ohm
Ok quick question here im at a 1ohm final load with 2500rms needed for the sub basically.. the smart 3k , bass 5k or sundown sfb5k ? I have access to buy any one of these for about the same price which is 230 bucks.
2 questions. I like the bass series out of these 2. If I had 2 American Bass Xmaxxx 12" 1 ohm subs what wattage would you go with? If I went with the VFL Signature Comp series 12" subs which wattage bass series amp will you go with?
Hey boss.. i just bought 2 2ohms sundowns X10v3’s im new in the business of sounds. I need an advise of how to wires these subs and what taramps amp should i buy to get the best of my subs. I really appretiate if u can help me out a little bit. Thanks
Do you have a number for Kevin in Michigan that repairs these amps? I’ve had my bass 8k for 5 years and never any issues I let my wife use my truck and when she came home I noticed that my amps were off and I diagnosed the taramps as the remote terminal on the amp has ground so I’m assuming something is shorted inside. No smoke and no Burt smell anywhere
so i have the 2 ohm md5000.1 and run it at 2 ohms but it never sees 2 as box rise etc. can it still be wired to 1 ohm if its seeing 2 or more still most of the time?
When you said bass had better sound quality what do you mean? If you use the amps in full range and set crossovers by head unit whats the sound difference? Would one be more punchy more accurate?
@@vlc9521 what are you talking about. The info he stated was pretty solid and accurate....what was I'll informed about the video. And among the information going around with most things. This seems very helpful....
Thank you for your explanation of the difference in the MD and Bass series amps. I am in the process of starting my very first car audio build for competition and I have already bought a Smart Bass 5K to start with but I know that I will not be satisfied with it and I will have to move up in power to get even close to what I want to put in my Suburban. I would love to talk with you about this and see if we could work out something as far as some type of sponsorship from Taramps. Let me know if that is something that you would consider or if it’s even possible. Thanks again and I look forward to hearing from you.
Okay so you do competition do you know of any videos or could you help me out with figuring out how to keep from blowing a 500 amp breaker using the taramp MD 5000. 1 I will be running 2 skar evl 12d4 wired to 1 ohm last time I had 2 sundown audio 12d4 I kept blowing a 300 amp breaker on a taramp hd3000
@@craighowe3602 I’m sorry for the confusion but I don’t compete yet. I’m still building my system. That being said what type and gauge wire are you using to power your amplifiers ? I’m running my Taramps Smart 5K Bass on a single 1/0 solid cooper cable with a 250 amp fuse and I have never had any problems with it blowing the fuse. I have had many systems over the years with anything from a single 10” sub and a 500 watt amplifier all of the way up to some really crazy stuff and if you use good power cables you shouldn’t have any issues with blowing the fuses as long as everything is wired correctly.
Hey quick question. I'm new to the music setup situation. I have a bass 8k, 2 ZVX skar 12 inch at 1 ohm each, a 325 amp alternator and 2 optima yellow top batteries one in the front and the other in the trunk. Would that be enough 🤔
You need at least 3 batteries in back and one under the hood it tells you on taramps website it clearly has a picture of 3 batteries connected to it! Oh and get to more zvx you need a 4 pack!
Great video my guy! I'm gone have to disagree a little...lmao Those hd amps are made for subs also and they absolutely slam! And the HD amps are less likely to trip when overdriven.
Im debating between the MD1200.1 1ohm or the MD1800.1 1ohm, if I get the 1200.1 ill be ok with the electrical I have but I might upgrade the alternator later on but not sure so maybe I should get the 1800.1 but run it at 2ohm should still get about 1400watts just not sure what to do.
Don't do that people if you're amp is rated for 14v don't run it at .5 if it's in mid 12s like 12.5 or 12.6 that will lead to an unwanted cause, it's best to run .5 between 13.8 and 15 to 15.6 especially with the bass series amps, also another thing to note that a MD 8k will not put out the same power as a bass 8k because the bass is better built to allow more current than the MD 8k. I'll be picking up a bass 8k for my Resilient sounds team 15 and I'll be running it at .5.
I just got the MD1800.1 amp. I am hearing a whirring sound coming from the amp when the vehicle starts and periodically while listening to music. The noise is not coming thru the speakers so it doesn’t appear to be ground loop. I am guessing it is the cooling fan in the amp…but is that fan supposed to be that loud ? I can hear it from. The drivers seat and the amp is at the back of my Ford Explorer.
On the MD 12000.1 the label says .05 on they don’t have a Bass 12k it’s only a Bass 15k and that’s 1 ohm. I went for the MD12000 because it applied to my application for 1/2 ohm
