Great video, not only to you explain how to do it and what to look for, but the best part is you then actually showed how to do it in the field. Thank you , again great video.
If the compressor is not plugged in, the board sees the low (no) current draw and will not ramp up to 220v. The tech sheet SHOULD say test with connector plugged IN. With all the Americans working in Alabama, you would think they could do a better job translating the service materials to English. Six Blinks means that the compressor NEEDS more power to cool at the same rate (excessive power). This confirms what we can all see in the video. The condenser is blocked with dirt, so the compressor is having to work harder than designed. "Work" is power and current (measured in AMPS) is half of the equation. When you see 6 blinks of the on-board LED, clean your condenser and see if the problem goes away, and temps normalize. The condenser probably got cleaned during the repair and so it appears that the changed PCB did the trick, when in reality the cleaning of the condenser was all that was required. But hey, you won't get $500 for cleaning a condenser! lol BTW: I just had a Samsung with a similar situation, initial checkout the inverter was giving error blinks, so I cleaned the (very) dirty condenser and ordered some parts for my return visit. when I came back, no more blinks, everything cooling just fine.
I did my test with the connector off and I got 3 blinks which meant disconnected wire. It got up to 128 v before kicking off. Right next to that connection it says 100-127v, and when I tested with the connector in I got 111v. Do these boards require updated software to work properly? Tested the relay of the compressor, installed a new one, just finished this stupid pcb board test. I just want my fridge to cool 😂
@@jackscharlau8045i was wondering same shit. Residential outlets are 120v. So thisxtechs video, his voltmeter went to exactly 120v. I dont think its fonna go to 200v if its just a basic 120v residential outlet. Unles theres some type of transformer on the cb. Am i missing something or does the board do something on its own to ramp upto 200v? Im just using common sense, and when i saw his meter stop at 120v, i thought thats what a 120v power source is going to show. But he said something was wrong because it didn't go upto 200v.
I measured the voltage of my 4 Door LG refrigerator ( Linear Compressor) and it came out at 240 VAC with connected and 120 VAC when not connected housing. Is PCB OK ? LED Blinking 6 Times.
Appliances and automobiles are more complicated than ever yet you have all these people who just want to part swap without checking anything. I’ve been on several videos about LG fridges and even the other techs are calling numerous people out for not doing it correctly.
Hello, great video. Does this test work with all LG linear? I found a manual for my lmxs28626d/00 and it shows to do the test but on the power and #1 capacitor terminals. If I run it on Com and power I have 135vac. If i run it on power and Capacitor I get about 210vac. Not sure if i should replace the board?
If u get 80 v and up pcb is good it won't get to 200 hundred with compressor disconnected. The 6 blink error is sealed system problem period.compressor overcurrent from restrictions,bad compressor,dirty or restricted condenser or defrost issue causing liquid refrigerant getting to compressor which will eventually fail the compressor as well and stop cooling.
@@jamieshipley8963 In my case I disconnected the compressor and it was gradually climbing up to about 150V max and then the whole system shutdown apparently sensing no current taken from the inverter - had code 3 after and didn't look yet what exactly it is. I plugged the suspect compressor in and it was jerking around 30,40,60,90,130Volts. After hooking gauge on low side - 60psi running or not steady confirmed mechanical part of compressor is bad.
Thanks for clarify this to me because not all the Lg Tech sheet shows the same way to do the test mode it varies from Model # for example the model # LFX25973D shows in the tech sheet on the test mode the CON201 connected and shows you on what color of wire you can measure the 200v after press the button. And the model # LSXS26386S Shows on the test mode pictures the CON201 without the wire plug and indicate you to get measure on COM & POWER and it said after 30 Second it will measure 200v and I did and it doesn’t reach up 120v on the first model above and I did it the way of the tech sheet shows with wire the plug of CON201 connected and take the measures on the wires are from COM & Power and reach 200v after 30 second. And I did it without the CON201 off and measure on POWER & COM it reach 120V not more Thant that.
If the LG compressor isn't vibrating and it's getting unusually hot, IMHO I'd bypass all the other tests and start with a new compressor. Fridge has basically kicked the bucket. There were quality control issues with LG refrigerator linear compressors made a decade or a little later. Mine only lasted 6 years.
Yes. Theres actually a lawsuit from 2019 and a new lawsuit for jan 2024 because lg knowingly used substandard, defective compressors. Many are capping out within 3 or 4 years
Is test mode one where to put it when evacuating system? I know on whirlpool dual cool you have to put in test2 to put diverter valve in neutral position. Also, where did you get the lg tech sheet for that fridge?
Dont all residential outlets only put out 120V? It looked like it hit 120V on your voltmeter, but that seems standard for 120v residential outlet. Am I missing something or am i wrong? Is there a transformer on the board?
Im a new tech so regardless if the blinking lights show normal operation, you test anyway. Also if the compressor is running but the condenser is room temperature still and the evaporator is not frosting at all, you still must test?
Hey I did this test on a lg fridge that was getting the 2 flashes on the pcb. I reset the fridge and tested the voltage and it was in good range (manual said 80v-180v mine was 160) and light didn't come on. The day after the 6 lights came up, so I did your test and voltage was the same. Tested resistance on compressor and it was good but fridge is still not cooling. Have any ideas what it could be?
Bad compressor or needs a recharge (due to a potential leak). I have replaced the capacitor, thermistor kit (next to compressor), will try a new board and I am approaching a conclusion I need a new fridge because a new compressor is under BS LG warranty but to replace it is $1K, boo!!!
My fridge was doing exactly what you showed, I checked it like you did and it was only puting out 28 volts and the led was not working. Compressor test good, fan is running. I replaced the board and it is doing the same thing and still pcb is only putting out 28 volts on the com 1 port. Did not fix. You have any idea what it could be. I did everything ten times over to make sure I was doing it right
Yes its probably the compressor at this point. Im going to eventually take this video down. Seems like even after everything stated in the tech manual, folkss are still having problems 😕
@@TMMApplianceRepair your putting out videos.. there is not many for lg , so kudos to you and thanks. I just started to work on LG and it seems to me with my limited knowledge the compressor is always the problem.....so far..Lg likes to send the pcb board with the compressor even if you dont ask for it. Maybe the compressor is taking out the pcb too.
I got a LG fridge. I followed all steps and was only getting up to 50Vac with the connector disconnected and pressed the test button after 30 seconds. Replaced the Board same results. Compressor/Condensor running but still not cooling. Did same test on new Main Board and same results only comes up to 50Vac when connector disconnected. With connector connected I get up to 110Vac on the original Board and the new board I put in. Not sure if I missed a step or this doesn’t hold true to all LG. Thanks for the video and help though Keep up the great work
Hello hope u can reply to my comment i need help i did that test mine got to the 200v as soon as it got to 200v it droped down again to like 60 volts and LED light blinking 3 times is that normal?
Hello, I measured the voltage after pressing the test button, waited for at least a minute but still getting only 100V DC and around 60V AC. The manual says it should range between 145 and 180. Says below 80V it is faulty. The fridge serial is LG LFX33975ST, the PWB model is EBR752347 or EBR730936. My issue is the fridge but mainly the freezer is not cold enough (also no ice in the icemaker). All the fans are running in test mode but not otherwise. The linear compressor resistance reading on the two used pins is correctly 7.5ohms. I already replaced the freezer evaporator fan motor, the ice maker fan and compressor start relay but no luck. Also I pressed the test button multiple times today and the LED on the board started flashing 6 times indicating "current trip - PCB defects or cycle clogging maybe the causes". The LED stopped flashing after replugging the fridge. Given the voltage measured on the PWB does this indicate the PCB needs to be replaced or the compressor? Main PWB should be OK? What is cycle clogging referred in the manual?
I also measured during normal operation after more than 10 minutes of being plugged in (as instructed by the manual) and measured 264V AC. The manual says "higher voltage readings may occur under heavy load conditions."
@@TMMApplianceRepairok. This was the info i was looking for. I was wondering how 120v outlet got to 200v unless the board had some type of transformer or inverter. Makes sense now
Not a myth, it’s an I need to get to my next call problem, and dont have time to do a proper diagnosis. But good video. But you also have that other bunch that walks in and orders the board without checking anything...I guess they are acceptig the 50/50 shot
I ran this test week ago and found that I was only getting about 60 volts so I went ahead and ordered a new board installed ran the test again and I'm still only getting about 60 volts out of the board that was replaced. Compressor is running the evap fans are running condenser fan is running but not cooling?
@@juanlanda6990 You testing is done different then my paper work that came with my Kenmore Elite (Linier ) compressor . Your instructions my board is bad, Kenmore says test on the two outer pins and they are circled also but far right and far left pins. If I test there it goes up over 200v ac. Now two outer pins are Capacitor and power as you probably know . I still have the fridge and keeping it until if find this out, even though i purchased a new one. The other test they give me in the instructions is also wrong . Also when checking the IPM the test is to use a multimeter and check the POWER and COMM but there schematic show meter pointing to POWER AND CAP, so those voltages come out wrong also. So my problem is Instructions ... I read a comment down below who said he tested like you did and it said it was the board , because it was below 200 v. He purchased a board and had the same reading , that's why I am questioning this. I can send pics of my directions if you want to check them out to see what I might be doing wrong . Thanks for your help. I also did the ohm reading on the compressor (knowing they go bad) and it checks out7.5/7.7 ohms. The amps running were .80 amps , not sure about that reading thought it was suppose to be higher and I do feel it running but not alot. Fridge is not cold top or bottom... Thanks for your help if you have time. Your video is the closest to my exact problem....
@@kewl427 Same issue here. Same results as you. Also kept the refrigerator, but now it's becoming an inconvenience to the family. Did you ever figure this out ?
@@kewl427 Note, his capacitor in the video is not on the same harness, it's on top of the board. My 201 molex connector connects to the PCB and the capacitor, latter sits at the bottom of the board. Not that this test is not valid, I think this is due to the fact that these are different boards and we take it as gospel. Much like I did when I thought my compressor was dead after watching a video that shows there should be three readings while now I know that the liner compressor only has one reading on its windings.
@@juanlanda6990 No sir, but I still have the fridge and determined to fix it even though I have no idea what I am doing. But looking at these video's I do know the difference in what he is doing and what my manual says..
@@TMMApplianceRepair Hi. Thanks for all your time and efforts to share your knowledge with us. Can you pls point me in the direction on how to obtain LG appliance repair manuals ,bulletins or any kind of repair info.. I am really interested on learning LG products. If anyone knows please share your info with me Thanks in advance. To all.
Did this... didn’t get above about 60vac. Put in a replacement board today and same story. Capacitor is good. Not cooling below about 50°F. What’s next?
@@TMMApplianceRepair thanks, I know and agree - right in the service manual...but sadly, didn’t fix the problem! Yikes...a filter drier replacement is not quite as simple as swapping out the board. Might be in the market for a new fridge after all. :(
@@TMMApplianceRepair do u hv a service sheet for gr b207? I checked that the caps were off reading n replaced them but the compressor still did not kick in. Any advice on that?
Push test button measure output voltage at the board.. should see it increase from 120vac to 200v .. measure voltage down at compressor... verify wire harness.. if no output voltage i'd go board... if so then compressor is culprit
That's what I was about to say , usually when the led flashing 6 times it's indicating a bad compressor, if the board wasn't sending a good voltage,the compressor won't run I guess
You guys have many useful videos but in fairness to viewers this video should be deleted due to many people in the comments following this procedure only to be disappointed with the outcome.
