Warm LG Refrigerator - Replacing the Fuse on the Main Control Board 

Your video just helped me, I’m not savi with fuses, soldering or anything like that. In following your guide to look at that fuse I realized it looked like a lightbulb when it goes bad. After all the drama we created with not being able to solder and a few hours of “training” I went for it and by the Lord’s grace we got it to turn on, now we’re just waiting to see if it cools and in if it all goes well. Thanks for the video! 🙂

Dear Mr. Samurai. You may not believe this. I was searching high and low for some kind of help with my Kenmore fridge that had this similar problem. So, with a last bit of hope before I agreed to the $265 for the "emergency repairman" and $365 for the main board for parts; I watched your video. It was the same damn main board that was in mine. Yuppers, My Kenmore has the same board as this LG. And, with 2 trips to the local hardware store and $7.89 in parts and 4 attempts at soldering the fuse holder, my fridge is back up and running. It is a long weekend here and no one wanted to work on a stat holiday so the repairman was going to charge extra to come out. So, I say a big THANKS to you. You saved the day, and a fridge full of food and a freezer full of choice meat. I actually did value your video.

THANK YOU! Fridge died. Purchased 2009 - not ready to give up the ghost. Found my burnt out fuse - made a jumper wire from a single wire from a 12/2 wire. Everything is running! Heading out this morning to finish the job properly. There was a power outage and I was using a surge suppressor but apparently it didn't work as intended.

Three years later, your video was the first to show up. The fuse looked perfectly fine, it wasn't. I added the wired fuse holder and it's running again. I cut the old fuse, just in case it comes back to life. Thanks for your video though!

Great explanation. What a bunch of jckasses who engineered a fuse into a non-spring loaded or removable configuration.

almost 8 years later and this video fixed my issue thank you so much !!!

Thank you so much! I was able to diagnose and repair my refrigerator using this tutorial.

This was a great idea! Instead of desoldering the whole fuse from the board I used precision wire cutters to clip out the old fuse. That left enough wire already connected to the board for me to solder the fuse holder to. Took me over 2 hours to diagnose the problem but only 25 minutes to fix once I watched this video. Thanks!

Thanks for this video. Perfect explanation and turned out to be my problem exactly, even though I have a slightly different model than the one you featured. The clamp current meter was maybe not necessary but very enlightening for me with regard to what is going on on startup so thanks for including. My fridge decided to pack it in on a long weekend so I'll be unable to buy a replacement fuse over the weekend, but thankfully got it going with a jumper across the poles. Lets hope we don't need any protection until I'm able to get to replacing it.

Thanks for the video. I have a Kenmore with a board that looks identical. Followed your steps and my fridge is up and running again! You Rock!

Keep doing what your are doing it is really helping a young appliance technician like myself out a great deal. THANKS!

Thanks!!! This was my problem too and not too hard to fixed. You saved me from having to buy a new fridge!

After a power failure, my refrigerator stopped working. I found a circuit repairer and he just changed the main fuse. My refrigerator works A1. TANKS !!!!

Thank you SamuraiRepairman, that is exactly the problem I had, I saw your video just in time was about to phone the repairman.To bad I purchased a new fridge 3 days ago though this will be a spare.

Repaired a few of these boards and I use a 15amp pigtail ceramic slo-blow fuse which I think the upgraded boards use from LG, easy to unsolder and remove the old fuse and install the new pigtail fuse in its place, just remember to heat sink the pigtails with forcepts on the board side to prevent the heat from entering the fuse during the solder process to protect the new fuse, hope this helps, John , SJ Appliance

I just did this to a kenmore elite branded LG, got the thing free and flipped it. it's a crazy business.

Home handy man here… Thanks for the video. Just saved me $350 for sure

Yesterday there was a massive power surge and power off for about 20 hours. My fridge didn't come back online. I tried your jumper bypass and when I plugged it in the board blew some components. Sparks and fire oh my! Anyway not your fault but it's worth cautioning people to be ready to unplug fast! Clearly the fuse didn't save my board.

I think the fuse used should be a 250V/10A or 115V/15A as indicated on the PCB. You want a "slo-blo" aka "slow-blow" or "time-delay" type fuse here, not an automotive fuse where the amp rating is assumed to be 12VDC (like in car).

Awesome video. The 5 star review was well deserved. Regards from Miami.

Thanks. I had the exact same problem, different LG fridge. Fix worked great.

Glad the fuse was the only problem.Good repair.

Just saved a lot of money on control board!

very good sir

There you go, Now you're thinking like an Electronic Technician. Good video.

Thanks for the help!

Thank you Dear

I have the same problem with my LG LFC20760ST/04 refrigerator, I need a 15 AMP 250V fuse. Do you know where I can buy the fuse a fuse holder that would work? Also, does need a fast acting fuse? Thanks for your help!

That's a common failure with LG boards. Done quite a few of those fuse solder in replacements with no callbacks. You have to wonder if the original fuse is defective in some way.

Ohhh yeah thank you exactly my problem saved me $$

Those circuit boards are more trouble than they are worth to operate a refrigerator. They have to use them for all the bells and whistles, like digital displays, electronic temperature control and predictive defrost functions. When refrigerators were made more simple with mechanical/electrical thermostats and the same for the defrost timer, refrigerators can last more than 10-15 years without breaking down. In lieu of the engineering and design cost for those electronic boards, the money could be apllied to better insulation, more efficient compressor design and power factor improvements. The amount of electricity saved is quickly wasted on service calls, spoiled foods and landfill/recycling expenses, to haul away the old refrigerators. I have seen older refrigerators last up to 20-25 years. So in my opinion, these high tech refrigerators and other appliances that rely on these electronic circuit boards will fail and or require expensive repair service calls. It only adds up to more profits for the manufacturer and their contracted service centers. Bottom line, keep it simple. But these appliance manufacturers are greedy and their consumers are the ones who lose out. Watch the RU-vid videos by CBC News. It covers their investigation on appliance failures and customer complaints in Canada but is also relevant to the United States.

Where did you find that cool fuse kit?

Great video, Are you able to just swap out the fuse?

Great vid! Would you suggest the jumper have its own fuse holder soldered in as a backup?

I have this issue with a 3 year old LG LFCS22520 model. I followed this and did not see a fuse as far as I can tell -- although there was something the size of the fuse but it was white not glass. Anyhow if there is a fuse it's insane that this is how you have to replace it -- why not have the fuse holder there to begin with? We'll probably have to buy a new refer.

So my fuse also was blown, but the main circuit breaker in the panel was also tripped. I have a whole home surge protector in the main panel. Which also tested good. Any thoughts?

I have a unit Lg refrigerator french door type and the compressor runs fine but it does not get cold,can you please shed a light on what can probably be the issue here.Thanks and I hope that you will be able to help me in getting to the bottom of this issue and solving the problem.

Send a link for the soldering tool and all you used please

So what’s the point of having a fuse to protect the board if the official remedy is to replace the board if the fuse blows?

THANK YOU!!! that saved me $100.00. I have GFI outlet and it still blew. I guess I'll replace that too.

Thanks for the video! I tried finding a fuse kit like you showed with no success. Where can I get the fuse kit and the fuse holders? Thanks

Hey I have an lgfd21855st and the light and ice maker are off in freezer part. Everything else is running . Could that be a fuse?

is this a pre LG Linear Compressor refer?

I think I got a kit off of Amazon with the same fuse holder. It's rated for 250V // 10A, whereas the fuse replaced was 15A -- is this OK?

Question- I used a jumper wire on my blown fuse and there was a spark and the breaker tripped. Something by be shorting out any suggestions?

Thanks Mr. Samurai, great video.What about the smaller fuse? My LG doesn´t work any more, and the litte fuse (2 A) looks like as if it is burned (black). should i proceed the same way?

I had the same thing with my LG refrigerator, now the problem I am having is it keeps blowing the fuse, any recommendation?

nice job

This is the exact problem I have but on a newer LG, can you help me figure it out?

My LG also went out. Same problem, fuse. I just have a question on fuse. Another video uses a 8 amp 250 volt and I see you used a 15 amp is it a 250 volt? Also should I be using the same as you, 15 amp- 250 volt, or should I go with the 8A 250V? (Also, the 8A 250V fuse I got is a “slo blow” fuse and the 15A 250V is a fast blow ceramic fuse.)

Looks like the same board as in my Kenmore...blown fuse.

hello samurai after installing fuse on lg main board my fridge keep running it wont stop even though its cool inside fuse i cahanged was 15AMP 250V thanks

im having some trouble finding the fuses i need. are they just your average 15 amp 125v glass fuse or is it a special part?

what if I have power lights cooling fan but no compressor.. I've got a two year old lg

Hello, my fridge is an Fridge: LG French Door Refrigerator - Model # LFX25960ST - when I plugged in my fridge, the ice module is flashing on and off, and the ice dispenser mechanism is also making a open/closing noise. Do you think my main board is broken? Or is the the ice main board module is broken? Thanks for the video tutorial.

Is this slow blow fuse or is it a fast blow?

No dont do this. This is not how you test a fuse. You must reduce the voltage. Easy way i used to use on microwaves was to bridge a 60 watt light bulb accross the fuse. If it gets bright the unit has a short if its dim and the unit runs change the fuse

what would be another reason if neither fuse isnt blown ? would it be the whole board

can I use fast acting fuse 8A, 250 V?

this vid saved me thx

Do you think a blade fuse of the same amp rating would be a decent idea?

My fridge keeps popping fuses after about 10 seconds

What's the trick to getting the solder to stick? I can't get the solder to stick to the fuse or the lead going to the motherboard.

How to check fuse is blow or not?????????? Please reply to

I’m assuming this video is not for DYI guys? I can’t find the schematic without a paid Professional account on Appliantology.org

👍🏼

Ok

Should have removed the fuse caps and soldered the tails into the board

tHAT POWER LOOKS SUSPICIOUS! BETTER PUT SURGE PROTECTOR ON THAT SUCKER. WHAT FRIDGE DO YOU RECOMMENED TODAY NEED ONE! UP TO 36 ACROSS, 30 IS DEEP

I hate LG for putting a fuse onto the board, thanks for saving me lots of cash.