Whoa, totally different Gareth from the one who showed me how to change the oil filter housing gasket on my N54, and water pump. Congratulations to you on achieving such success!
The level of slimming down that's been done is AWESOME!!! Congratulations for keeping it off.. Being Sicilian, it's tough to slow down on Breads and Pasta. LOL!!!!
It would be helpful to show how the injectors were actually disconnected. Is it at the injector, at the hpfp? Is the disconnect an electrical or a fuel connection? Etc.
just a heads up, if you have a high mileage car, might consider replacing the starter as well (if you took off the intake manifold for the ofhg job). I learned the hard way...
@@johnnyblue4799 pulling the fuse or unplugging the injectors amount to the same thing. Bmw does not specify pulling the spark plugs so I sense that the fuel pressure issue isn’t a concern.
@@jayparnes What I'm trying to tell you is that there's fuel under pressure on the fuel ramp and until that's gone, if you fire up the injectors, you'll spray it on the cylinder walls and wash out the oil film that lubes the cylinders until oil gets pumped again behind the pistons. Is that going to cause a lot of damage? Probably not, but why do it if it can be avoided? Dunno, maybe there's another fuse you can remove to stop firing the injectors?
To perform a real prelube ,a 20$ bug sprayer can be modified into a preluber and all you have to do is plug it into an oil pressure sender port right before starting. By modify, you basically jamb a piece of hose on the gun and add the needed fitting into the hose and add some clamps. Youll easily get 40-50psi pumping the sprayer by hand , that's plenty.
I’m about to do this on my n54 has been sitting for over a year , due to being out of state , just replaced timing chain with guide , cam ledge trays also new seals for the camshafts , new front main seal , everything on timing , just gonna keep those coils plugs injectors off , thank you for this , great video!
Good video. Instead of removing injector cables and spark plugs is it ok to just remove fuel pump harness or fuel pump fuses and then prime the engine. Is this process for the N54 aswell
Following this logic, you should prime your engine after an oil change, because there is pretty much no difference from doing oil pan gasket to an oil change.
Not the same. An oil change does not interrupt the oil circuit the same way some of these other repairs will. If the car were to sit for 24 hours with the drain plug off the oil pan and the oil filter housing open, perhaps, but it's not as critical as it is for the oil filter housing, VANOS sprockets, oil pump replacements, etc.
Phew !! Relief.Ive done 2 oil changes on my new to me 435 while oblivious to this.While it doesn't affect oil changes , this is very valuable info for us die hard DIY'ers.Thanks Gareth
I error on the side of caution and prime as suggested, but i would love to see a side by side comparison. As others have mentioned, logic follows you should prime after an oil change and if the vehicle sits for extended periods, which almost no one bothers to do. How would both 150k mile N55’s look after a teardown, one primed always, one never? I also wonder if the suggestion has more to do with oil flow to the turbo than excessive rod or main bearing wear.
3 years ago a had an OFHG (oil filter housing gasket) done on my 335xi by Winslow BMW of Colorado and they didn’t prime the engine a seized the engine. Took 0 responsibility.
I never know what to think with these stories because I hear them primarily with BMW owners. From a mechanical perspective it makes 0 sense since oil is designed to leave residual matter on the metal parts in order to mitigate metal to metal contact on start up. This is why a car can sit months at a time with almost all of the oil drained and be started up without seizing. When you change this gasket you literally still have residual oil all over the rest of the critical internal parts. Only thing I can imagine would be some sort of air pocket causing an issue and even that seems improbable. If so, seems like dropping a little oil into the oil filter housing would eliminate that risk.
No. And the reason being is the injectors will still fire fuel and start the engine as there is residual fuel in the fuel lines leading to the HPFP which in turn will be pressurized and injected into the engine. Disconnecting the injectors electrically (removing the ability for them to pulse based on crankshaft movement) 100% prevents the engine from starting which is what needs to happen in this procedure.
great advice, i saw someone else doing this in a recent video after changing the oil housing gasket and even a prime for the hpfp after replacement, prime the pump so the engine isnt just sitting there looking for fuel...though in that case you dont turn the engine you just sequence the on off button a few times
You could follow this procedure to prime the high pressure fuel pump to a degree. The only problem is air is still going to be trapped between the high pressure fuel pump and the injectors. This is only bled out once the engine starts. It's why almost all vehicles running a returnless fuel system stumble briefly on startup or require a few crank cycles to start after a fuel system repair.
As someone else mentioned, a little more detail on disconnecting the injectors would have been nice. And I didn't time them, but those "10-second" cranks seemed more like 5 seconds to me.
You disconnect the injectors electrically, not mechanically. Simply pull the two pin electrical connector. This prevents the injectors from being able to inject fuel without disrupting the fuel supply unnecesarily.
Gareth, I almost didn’t recognize you. you look great!!!!! We are all proud of you for reaching goals! Now I need to step up my game haha! Have a great day!
before this SB came out, I've always been in the habit (on any car) of start engine for about 15-30 seconds, shut off and look for leaks. If no leaks, start again, idle 1 minute, shut off and check oil level. Used this method after OPG (last year) on my E90.
Isn't the reason for this the use of oil pressure assisted chain tensioners? With no oil inside the chain may become loose enough that it can jump timing, something that usually isn't possible.
Why not just pull the fuel pump fuse or relay? and quite frankly the motor is still dry when it is spinning without starting. I don't know if any of the code readers will read oil pressure without engine running. It would be good if you could read the pressure while the motor was turning over. It is a shame there is not way to run the oil pump while the car is off?? That would be the best scenario
Do you have to unplug all the injectors. My X5 it's hard to get to number 5 and 6 on a 6 cylinder engine without removing parts. What should I do? Any help?
Did an N52 ofhg. I just pouring a quart of oil back down the housing then the rest of oil added normally. then started it. Did I do that wrong? Anything I can do now? Been driven for 200 miles since
Generally, pouring oil into the oil filter housing doesn't do much. A majority of the oil poured into the housing goes through the drain back into the block. N52's do not suffer from problems as outlined where the N55 does. A lot of the N55 issues stem from the variable output pump and generally less oil volume in the entire oiling circuit. You are 100% okay.
Only if you’re one of those people who like to drain their oil overnight to get every….last…drop. This only applies to services that allow the oil to drain down for an extended period, about 45 minutes minimum.
This surely is a valuable tech-tip but it is certainly NOT a "Five Minute Process" as the title suggests! ... not if one removes spark plugs!! Me thinks a 10Amp Starter/Charger should be satisfactory toward aleviating battery discharge?
@@kenendres8865 Ken, Gareth did actually say he removed the plugs in order to facilitate not having the starter operating against compression in the cylinders! ... removing spark plugs is a laborious and time-consuming task!
This is a quicker process if the spark plugs are not removed. The process as outlines by BMW does not require removal of the spark plug. In the interest of the car in question we wanted to be easy on the starter motor and battery. The starter not having to crank the engine against compression for a prolonged period of time is a choice we made (also doing other work at the same time). A good battery and providing ample cool down time in between cranks (plus a good external power supply) avoids the needs to remove plugs.
We removed the spark plugs in this video to be gentler on the original starter motor (you can hear the engine freewheeling when cranked). The procedure from BMW outlines the need for an external power supply. We recognize that most DIYers are not going to have an external power supply, may have a weak battery, or a weaker starter motor. Removing the spark plugs from the cylinder head allows the engine to crank freely with no added resistance from compression which saves the starter motor + battery. It's an alteration to the procedure which takes into account not everyone is going to have the necessary equipment to do this "by the book".