Another great video, would this be the same idea with an HVLP gun ? I have a Devilbliss FLG-5 that I will be using. I had a bit of a time priming with my cheapo HVLP with high build but I think there's more to just setting up the fan width. I'm hoping I get lucky and find a video you did on setting up a HVLP for single stage auto painting.
To be honest I find very little difference between paint guns. Weather it's gravity fed or conventional, if the gun sprays well then I use it. You are right about the fan width stuff. For example: a Binks Model 7 will dump tons of paint, thick primer etc because of the way it is built. You could buy a $600 gun and an old Binks will spray primer better. Like buying a rifle - you have to try out a bunch until you find the one that works for you. There's a lot of guns on ebay for cheap - you can buy them clean them up and see if you like that style of gun. Remember too that the air cap makes a difference. Binks made 3 or 4 different caps for the Model 7 to spray more paint or less depending on the material you are spraying.
I really just use 2 triangles of 2x4s and mount them to my car lift with c clamps. Hope that helps - if not comment again and I'll help out more if you need - Jerry
What about pressure and paint flow settings with that syphon feed gun? Best settings, for clear coat so you don't get orange peel? Most people use gravity feeders that run lower pressures and it's hard to find old school painters teaching syphon feeders.
Funny thing when I painted with these guns, I never used a pressure gauge - nobody did where I worked. I'd say it was right around 25-30 psi though. You really can go by feel - i.e. Too much pressure and you get a lot of unnecessary over spray/fumes - Too little pressure and not enough paint would flow. The truth is, air pressure really doesn't have much to do with orange peel even though a bunch of folks will argue with that. Proof is that you can get great results with a spray bomb can of paint (not much pressure) as long as you get it wet. Your aim is to make sure the paint is put on even and wet - pressure and width of patterns is really your personal preference. Jerry
I recently purchased aW-77 Suction feed air spray gun. The gun that you used in this video looks similar to the one that I have. Is this the same gun that you used? If so I was wondering what pressure you set your air compressor for? I actually purchased this gun to spray paint cabinets.
I'm always around 25 psi - I'm in a small garage so I don't like a lot of overspray/fumes thus keep the pressure down a bit lower. As long as you're getting sufficient amount of paint - your good.
Quick question for a beginner would you recommend me painting with this gun or the purple HVLP gravity fed gun? Painting base coat and clear coat with a Campbell air compressor 3.8 CFM at 40 psi tank 34gal
If you have both guns that's really up to you because they both spray great. You can't go wrong with the purple gun - it's light, sprays nice, and dependable. The CH is a Binks #7 copy which is bullet proof - sprays nice, usually 1.7 or 1.8 mm tip and can handle spraying anything. It is heavy though. Again they will both do just fine so it's your choice :)
When spraying a car with a gun like this the pressure at the gun is right around 25-30 psi. The amount of thinner or reducer depends on the paint but usually around 2 parts paint to 1 parts reducer or even more - I like it a bit on the thinner side. Fan and distance is really up to the individual - I like a smaller fan and a little more distance as I move a bit fast and am used to spraying single stage metallic paint. There are no unbreakable rules when it comes to spraying paint - it's all up to the user. One exception is the amount of hardener added. That - I always follow what it says on the can. I will do a set up video though - very good suggestion - thanks :)
If you like how it sprays, it is a good gun. Don't listen to the negative folks. BInks was top of the line back in the day, Again if it sprays good and gets good results then it's a good gun - hope that helps - Jerry
I have a Binks 62 and I have shot paint will both HVLP Gravity and Siphon Feed. Personally (maybe because I'm old) I prefer my Binks 62 over anything I have ever used. I believe you can still get kits for the 62.
That's a 1.7mm tip. Here's another video that may help in choosing paint guns and tips - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-THc0v-1TMug.html
If you have bugs or massive dust problems you can sand before a clear coat. Usually you spray the color (base) then the clear coat about 1/2 hour later. If you have any dust or mishaps you can sand and buff the next day :) Feel free to ask any question no matter how simple it sounds :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you! So what i take from this ,if i understood right is that unless the paint has bugs or imperfections that you go ahead with clear coat and then sand if needed before adding more? Thank you much for replying. It definately is an art.
@@chrisb2557 Just go ahead and throw a few coats of clear on it - you don't have to sand between coats. Wait 10-15 minutes between coats of clear. If you get dust, nibs, bugs, you can wet sand it lightly the next day and buff it out. Keep asking ?s if you need more information. Again, all the painting is done at once w/o sanding in between any coats - color or clear. The sanding and buffing is done the next day or later. The longer you wait to sand and buff the harder the paint is to work with though. Jerry
Why is it necessary to 'spray' the air without the paint? Why not let the trigger go alltogether? Thanks for the video tho, your videos have helped me a lot!
I suppose you could if you were painting a panel and went right past the end of the panel keeping the trigger punched - then come back the other way - etc. The problem that you will run into on a large job is when you come to the end of a paint stroke, you will double up the amount of paint dropped at the end of the stroke - thus there are sometimes you just want air. Plus if you shut the air off - often times the paint will "spit" out of the gun when you "turn the air back on" Not sure it that makes sense or not :)
Absolutely. I used to spray polyester primer which is the thickest stuff out there with a Devilbiss JGA copy - regular siphon gun. Even with gravity fed guns you still have to reduce 2k urethane and epoxy primer to get it to spray nice. Don't be afraid to reduce paints and primers to get them to spray well.
Just wanted to clarify, you were a little unclear as to whether we should go air then fluid then air orrr what? Just messing around 😂 I appreciate you taking the time to make this video for us
@@LakesideAutobody on the fender i mean, because im going to paint my motorcycle, the plastics, with candy paint and metal flake but i have syphon spray gun and not gravity, just want to know if the syphon use more paint than the gravity gun or is something that i think.
25 psi is a good starting point. Too much over spray or seams like too much pressure back it off a bit. Not enough paint or not atomizing well turn it up a bit. Hope that helps :)
