This video gives a general "Rule of Thumb" method for adjusting all automotive paint spray guns for any given circumstance. It provides straight forward, usable tips for adjusting your paint gun on the fly. / @lakesideautobody
I just got this exact gun from a friend and was praying to find a good tutorial on it. Straight forward and too the point, you're a life saver. Thanks!👍
Glad to hear that - you'll hear all kinds of information but remember it really comes down to what works for each job. Guys get awesome results with spray bomb cans so that sort of proves it :)
Great video! 3:38 min. and so informative. I'm so glad you didn't go on about your dog getting sick and the bay window of your house cracking, and you didn't have heavy metal music in the background :)
Plain and simple. Just the way I like it... Thanks. In the future, could you make a video on buffing out paint? I'm mostly confused about using the woolly bonnets. I've seen some say to use it for cutting and I've seen others use it for buffing wax. Maybe, but I not sure they can do both. Thanks again.
Absolutely - good suggestion - glad you appreciate the simple approach. To me it never made a huge difference what pad I was using so I use one woolly bonnet for everything - just clean it real quick before the next step. If you you want though, you could get a softer pad for the wax. Or do it by hand if you want a good workout :) Have a good week end. - Jerry
So, everything is about half way but what is the “half way” pressure to set my air compressor to?? Guess I missed that??? Never tried this new gun before...thanks...👍🏻
You don't have to set your compressor to a lower pressure. I think my gauge on the compressor says around 90 psi most of the time. I never set the pressure at the compressor just a to the gun - hope that helps :)
Hiya I have a similar sort of gun but where you stick the pipe by the air pressure control valve, it doesn't have that valve and when I stick the air hose in ,it start to leak air from the front without me pulling the trigger ,I can not figure out the problem, any suggestion?
If it leaks from the front (the valve that the trigger presses up against) then it's that valve. Pull the trigger off, unscrew that valve (the whole thing should come out as one unit), and either fix or replace it. If it's a real Binks, you can still get all the parts. If it is a copy of a Binks 7, I'd bet that you could find a valve somewhere on ebay. Let me know if you figure it out - curious 🤔
Hi Jerry I just got a used 2001 cup gun how much cfm will I need to run this? I plan on using it for primer and top coat on my rebuilt door bottoms and rockers.
I have that gun - a Binks 2001 w/ 1.8mm tip. I can spray that thing all day using my compressor - it puts out 6.4 SCFM @ 40 psi / 5.4 SCFM @ 90 psi You could probably get away with less but I'm actually running a minimum really. I recommend something like this - www.harborfreight.com/29-gallon-18-hp-165-psi-oil-lube-vertical-air-compressor-58507.html- pretty quiet, oil filled, belt driven. Dewalt makes one just like it but maybe a little bit more $. Tractor supply carries a lot of this style compressor CH, Dewalt, Porter Cable - www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/porter-cable-20-gallon-portable-belt-drive-air-compressor
Hey Jerry I've got 400 grit scratches that showed up after spraying metallic basecoat. I read somewhere that the clearcoat will fill them up. I've read elsewhere that they need to be sanded with 600. What do you think?
I think the clear coat will "bury" those. You can go ahead & clear coat it. Let that dry and if there is any that show up you can lightly wet sand with 1200-1500 grit and buff. Or you can let the base dry, wet sand with 600 and go at it again. Let me know what you end up doing my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I ended up wet sanding the base with 600 on a pool noodle until I felt that every area was smooth. Then I applied more base. After clearing over it, I can still barely see some scratches. Good enough for me.
@@LakesideAutobody Nason base and clear. Initially when I sprayed over the scratches they disappeared but once the solvent flashed off they came back. I've used Sherwin-Williams paint before and didn't have that problem.
Overspray is basically the paint that misses the panel and either floats around in the room or lands somewhere that you don't want it to land - hope that makes sense :)
If your rust holes are on the underside of the cab, you can remove the seats and carpet or pad, cut a metal patch out of sheet metal and MIG weld it into place or watch my latest video on JB Weld and use rivets and panel adhesive if you don't weld. Anyway, on the body you would do the same, then knock the patch down with a body hammer or hammer and punch and fill it with body filler - this video shows how ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6OEKdFTUEFk.html
Been painting for over 40 years with great results.........when i learned to paint, NO ONE PAINTED WITH THE FLUID ADJUSTMENT WIDE OPEN!!!!!!?????? now it seems to be the rule???? Maybe I been doing it wrong for 40 years///lol...lol...???????
I agree - I don't know what the heck happened. Why is there this pressure that it MUST be wide open - where did that come from. Heck, the older guns would get heavy paint on the ends and thin in the middle if you opened it too wide. Each gun is a bit different so it really depends on the gun and how you like to spray. Thanks for the comment Brian :)
Campbell Hausfeld - it's their version of the Binks Model 7 - mines old but this is what's available from them now - www.campbellhausfeld.com/spray-gun-with-rev-canister-dh650001av.html?category_id=67
@@adriancantu9140 At one time this type of gun was the KING of auto body spray guns. If you like conventional guns - that is cup on the bottom - you can't do much better than these - Binks or a copy. If you like the cup on top CH also makes them - Campbell Hausfeld is a reliable company. Yes - this type of gun will work fine for auto body :)
