THE BEST 2 CYCLE OIL for use in a chainsaw, and what oil I recommend.  

I no longer recommend Yamalube, it has good corrosion resistance and I haven't seen any failures, but it doesn't leave enough oil behind for my liking. Maxima K2 or Super M, Honda HP2, Amsoil Dominator or Saber, Motul 710 or 800 off Road are my picks. Echo's RedArmor is really good OEM oil, it's just expensive.

@@Andyshine77 thank you very much for the help I really appreciate it I well be goin to the k2 oil from now on

Good deal, any of the oils I listed are top notch.

@@patrickallred850 That's what I mix at and it is still too dry. They're much better oils out there IMHO.✌

@@Sensei948 It's fine.

100% correct! People never bring this up and a chainsaw running at 13000 rpm will have a high oil migration and in turn will need more oil to live a good long life.

You are getting Ester based oils and Castor based oils mixed up. Ester based oils are perfectly fine in the cold, and many of the 0w oils have group IV an V base stocks. Castor and castor oil blends often separate in temperatures below 35°F. So Motul 710 and 800 are perfectly fine in all temperatures. It's easy to get them mixed up, thanks for adding to the discussion.

Absolutely correct on all counts, good advice!

Red Armor is good stuff.

VP is excellent. The results are in, and stabilizers do absolutely nothing beneficial.

MsMohaman It's a great oil!! It's a little too much in a saw unless you really push it in say a chainsaw mill, but it offers great lubrication in those extreme applications.

@@Andyshine77 why do you say that motul 800 is a little to much in a saw? 🤔🤔🤔

@@MihaiVH It has a high flash point compared to most oils especially OEM and is very viscous. So in lower load applications it doesn't fully combust or burn off, so it robs I slight bit of power, some auto tuning saws don't care for the heavy oils. That said it's not going to harm anything, in fact it protects very well, especially in demanding applications. They're simply oils more suited for the application, but if you have the oil and like it, just run it.✌

@@Andyshine77 for the moment I use Stihl HP (mineral oil) ....but i bought 1 L of Motul 800 Off Road in order to test it ....🤔🤔🤔 ...i usually use 25 ml of oil for 1 L of gas (95 unleaded or 100 unleaded )

@@MihaiVH 800 is far better than the oil you were using.

Super M is a really good oil, it's basically K2 blended with some conventional base oils, I wouldn't hesitate to run it.✌

@@Andyshine77 thanks for info

I strongly agree!

I have many times on saws ran on 32:1 and 40:1 A little residue is actually normal with good oils. But I don't see much of that with K2 unless the engine is turned a little rich.

The newer XP oil is good stuff!✌️

There is open cup and closed, which one used is important.

@@Andyshine77 yes, true, the open cup give higher flash point because light vapors are lost to the atmosphere. (Just trying to help those who aren't familiar with flash point).

I think I'm with you there on my chainsaws, I switched from running stihl full syn mix in my fuel at 50:1 to running castor 927 50:1 yes castor smells great however for I'm noticing lots of carbon buildup on all the saws now... way too much carbon..... so I'm going back to using stihl hp ultra for my saws and weedeaters.

Ultra is garbage oil. 927 is great, but it has to be used in the correct applications, a chainsaw is not one of them. Go to home depot and get RedArmor oil offered by Echo, or use one of the oils I recommend in the video. Maxima K2 or Super m Honda HP2 Motul 710 or 800 Amsoil Saber or Dominator Husqvarna XP+ RedArmor. All top notch oils that are far better than Ultra.

Not in the U.S. in most countries, you are correct. In the state's all of Stih's oils are made buy Omni specialty packaging, even the bar oil. That said, I had a saw sent to me from a friend in Canada. He was running the Castrol made Stihl ultra oil, and I've never seen that much carbon buildup on such a low hour saw, so I still would never recommend that oil. Just because an oil works in motorcycle engines doesn't automatically mean it will work in all applications.🍻

I have no personal experience with them, but have heard an seen good things about Scheaffer's, Scott Treemonkey uses Scheaffer's. Liquid Molly has always made good oils, so I bet it's good stuff too.

How about the flashback?

I have no idea why anyone would run less oil than 50:1 which is the bare minimum. I guarantee the failure was from running not enough oil.

@@Andyshine77 People run less than 50:1 because SCAMsoil loves to make outrages claims about their products, and since they have a cult following people believe their claims. I once had one of their "dealers" (which apparently everyone who's ever bought a quart of oil from them is, so maybe they are also a pyramid scheme) tell me someone put sand in their transmission, and they didn't even know until 100,000 miles later because the oil is that good! Another said they broke their oil pan and drove home like 50 miles with no oil in their engine because again, their oil is that good. SCAMSoil might make the best oil in the world, but they are scammy as hell.

​@@Andyshine77 motul 710 2t fulsintetik ok oil cheinsaw 50cc,60cc

Post up the unfo if you like. The issue with even the chemical analysis is, just because there is more or less of one particular additive, does it make the oil better or worse? Or just because one has better base stocks. The best myself and others can do is come to a conclusion base on all evidence including what we see inside these engines after a good amount of run time.

@@Andyshine77 You would be really surprised to see how few additives are in any 2-cycle oil. You have your base stock of course then you have calcium which is a dispersant or detergent. Phosphorus is a lubricant, zinc is a lubricant and corrosion inhibitor. If you get boron which is an exotic lubricant, you are very lucky and klotz oil has this. That's about it. Anything else is a Trace and ends up there pretty much by accident through the manufacturing process such as silicon which is dirt or Tin which came from a solder joint on the machine that processed the oil. So yes, you can clearly gauge which oil contains the real McCoy from an analysis. I can assure you Amsoil dominator is one of the biggest rackets in the business. Walmart brand non-synthetic 2-cycle oil contains more additives and burns cleaner. There are many more shocking Revelations as well.

@@ColdSmokes No sir I'm not surprised, and there is a reason. Two cycle oils have to combust, so adding heavy mineral additives in the same amounts as four cycle engine oil, would leave large amounts of ash in the combustion chamber, and everywhere. So most two cycle oils rely on other additives like Polyisobutene (PIB) that have low burn off temperatures, and quality base stocks. Detergency is of up most importance, so oils with higher end base stocks will burn cleaner and lube better with less solvents and other additives needed. The high-end Esters simply require less additives. Cheap 2T oils will always be thin with a bunch of cheap additives and solvents, as these additives and solvents are far les expensive than the high-end Esther base stocks. I respect you wish to share the information you have, but understand I'm not new to the subject, in fact quite the opposite. I have run nearly all of the oils Klotz offers, mostly because some of them will mix with Methanol, Nitromethane and Ethanol. Klotz oils lubricate very well, but they burn extremely dirty in outdoor power equipment, these oils are made for high output racing engines, not chainsaws. One exception, Oreginal Techniplate does burn clean, the issue with original techniplate is the fact it's partially derived from plant oils and other esters, this makes the oil highly hygroscopic, so it's not recommended for anything but race engines. The plant based oils are also why original techniplate smelly so dang good!😊 super techniplate smells good too as it has 20% Castor oil and 80% original techniplate. I enjoy the discussion, just please try and not be a know it all, I'm sure we both have valuable information, remember not all of it can be learned on the internet.

@@Andyshine77 Being a know it all and happily sharing what I know are two entirely different things. You are most likely not used having someone reply who knows a thing or two as you do. Cheers.

@@ColdSmokes Understand a lot of crazy people come along and post nonsense. And for whatever reason people get all worked up about oil. So yes I have to weed out the nonsense. Please stick around and feel free to continue the discussion.

I personally would not recommend running castor oil in any of my equipment, it's really is not intended to be used in anything but race engines. Even than castor oils were used before, better modern synthetics were developed, and in most circumstances, synthetics have surpassed castor oils. Castor oils do smell neat, but that's about their best attribute in OPE. If you want an oil with a unique odor, give Motul 800 a try, K2 smells pretty neat too.The only oil with some castor I'd consider using would be Maxima 927, but you still have the cold weather separation problem. I would not mix a synthetic oil with a castor. It may work perfectly fine, it might not. There's just no real benefit to the risk.

@@Andyshine77 thank you for the quick response. I don't think it's worth the smell, I'll just stick to the Redmax or Husqvarna mixes.

Both of those are good. Amsoil Saber/Dominator, Honda HP2, Maxima K2 are very clean, burning, and a better value than the OEM oils.

Not entirely true. It depends on several factors, including what method was used to obtain the Flashpoint, closed cup, or open cup are the two main methods. And the flashpoint does not actually mean when the oil itself ignites but rather the vapors. In general, the higher the flashpoint, the more stable the oil will be at higher temperatures, but not exclusively.✌️

50 smells good, but it burns dirty and robs a little power, I suggest sticking with the K2.

@@Andyshine77 Sucks R50 burns dirty, don't want that. Is 50 something that would be better at a bit lighter ratio? Something like 40:1 maybe?

No, it wouldn't matter even at lighter ratios. I ran R50 for quite some time to test it. R50 does offer great lubrication, it just unfortunately burns dirty. I really don't recommend any Klotz oils for use in a work saw.

Do you have any experience/opinion on Golden Spectro? The black and gold bottle. It's a synthetic/petroleum blend. I came across it and read some about it, mainly from dirt bike forums. A lot said it burns clean but seemed just as many said it burns dirty.

@matticus6339 Sorry, but I have no personal experience with it.

Yes this is correct, it's best suited for constant high load applications, as is Motul 800 and most oils with high flash points. Keep in mind saws normally don't idle much, it's full throttle or nothing most of the time.

Some do, Motul 800 is a good example, but even than it's much less than a four cycle oil. Zinc does have it's place though, racing applications mostly. Zinc just leaves too much hard deposits behind, as it can't be burned off in the combustion process. 2T oils with zinc should really only be used in racing engines, much like castor oils, because those engines are rebuilt regularly. For the most part 2T oils have additives like PIB and or high end base ester stocks. Today zinc is even on it's way out of 4 cycle engines, do to it being hard on catalytic converters. Thanks for your input.

Yes, it is a FD oil. Deposit control seems to be a priority in a 2-Stroke. I am going to take another look at the 710 oil.

In Canada and some other countries Stihl oil is un fact made by Castrol. In the U.S. all of Stihl's oils are made and bottled by, Omni Specialty Packaging, LLC 10399 Hwy 1 South Shreveport, LA 71115 www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/SDS/Stihl_HP_Ultra.pdf

710 is a 100x better than ultra. Ultra creates large amounts of carbon deposits.

You will have no issues running HP2 at 40:1 or 32:1.

Eric builds saws that are a little more hot than an average work saw, so I'm not surprised he recommends an oil like that. Plus he likes to mix his fuels with some different additives from time to time.😉✌

bobe8888 yep if ur cuttin cookies in ur backyard all power too you, but he also suggested schaffers mostly for corrosion resistance in storage & lubing for the high rpm!

@@jimmycrackcorn1783 Lot of guys are running Schaffers, even though it's a TCW3 oil, still seem to work very well though. Yamalube 2R has about the best corrosion resistance out there, it's what I recommend if corrosion is a concern. The Castor oils are really bad when it comes to corrosion as it's hygroscopic. Esters are better but can still have moisture problems. Eric builds about the meanest saws out there, and his chains are second to none.

Yes I highly recommend it as well.

@@Andyshine77 Ever try klotz r50 and motul 710?

I ran R50 for a good while, incredible film strength, but it burns dirty. 710 I one of the best period.

CST of 7.5 is fine in most saw applications. It is on the lower side and I personally prefer a higher number, but as long as you tune the engine correctly it should provide proper lubrication, especially if you run it at 40:1 or 32:1✌

C12 is good stuff. Stihl ultra is not an oil I recommend in chainsaws, in the 4mix engines is where that oil belongs. Any of these oils I highly recommend. Maxuma k2 or Super M Honda HP2 Yamalube 2R Motul 710 or 800 Amsoil Saber All mixed at 40:1

I use canola for bar and chain oil but it wouldn’t be suitable for anything else.

www.maximausa.com/tds/2stroke/Formula%20K2%20TDS.pdf I have been doing research on these oils for the past decade, understand that the info is updated regularly, and the numbers have fluctuated over the years. The same goes for most of the oils in the video, Klotz seems to be the worst at this, it seems every year the info changes. I believe this is do to how they preform the test, maybe they change something in the formula, or it's just a correction. I'll add the new info in the description. Thanks for the heads up, and for commenting. I will also pin your comment so others can see it.

@@Andyshine77 No problem, I was just looking for some in Australia, your video came up and then the data was different, was confusing

It can be confusing, and this is the internet, so some have attacked me and accused me of spreading bad info, when all it came down to was the manufacture changing the info. I'm not sure how popular Maxima products are in other countries? it's very popular in the states. If you can't fine it some of the other oils like Honda HP2 are excellent too. Some oils like those from Repsol, ELF and others are near impossible to get here, which is too bad they look like excellent products.

it's available from a couple of distributors in other states, it's also $40 a litre plus postage. Repsol and ELF are around but also similarly hard to find, I've never seen Honda HP2 but Yamalube is available, made by Spectrum USA (Philips 66) as is Echo and Jakmax which all look to be basically the same oil/spec. K2 looks much better spec, Motul 800 I can only find in 4 litres for $160, I don't need that much.

@@CSkwirl Glad it's available in your market, as Maxima is a relatively small family owned company. $40 a leader is a lot, so I can't blame you if you go with an alternative oil. The Honda oil is common here and very affordable, I believe it runs about $10 a pint. Most Honda bike dealers will have it on the shelf. Motul 800 really don't belong in a normal work saw, unless you're using the saw for milling or in other extreme applications. 800 does oil incredibly well, it just doesn't burn well until you get the saw really hot. Yamalube is OK mixed at say 32:1 but doesn't offer same protection as the other oils due to its much thinner viscosity. It is a clean burning oil though. Here in the states yamalube is made by Citgo, at least that's what the MSDS I have says. I have not personally ran Jakmax, but I do have an acquaintance from an internet chainsaw forum I'm on, that has ran jackmax oil with good resuts, but it's not available here, so I don't know anything about it other than that. Thanks again for watching the video and commenting. Hope I've been helpful.

Tony H Tony H I'm not sure where your information is coming from, all the oils I have in the video are for air cooled engines. It's literally written on each bottle. Generally air cooled oil will have much lower flashpoints than oils for air cooled engines. I've personally spoken with many of the Reps from several of these oil companies, including Maxima, Klotz and Fuchs. Ash is a by-product of poor tuning, engine temperature, fuel and the oil, not just the oil itself. Stihl's oil is basically Castrol TTS, that is blended by Omni specialty packaging out of Shreveport Louisiana. In most countries the Stihl bottles will actually have Castrol written on the label. I have personally found Stihl Ultra synthetic to leave large amounts of carbon deposits behind at 50:1. It does seem to work OK in 4-mix engines. I'm currently running Amsoil Saber at 50:1 in my 4-mix engines. 2R is an excellent choice, but myself and others have found it lacks thermal stability in extreme conditions. It is a great performer in most applications, it burns clean and has great corrosion protection. This means it's great as a storage lubricant. Ester based oils simply offer better protection under extreme pressure, rpm's and temperatures.

@@Andyshine77 "Ester based oils simply offer better protection under extreme pressure, rpm's and temperatures." HP Ultra contains 80% trimethylolpropane, which is an ester. Also, speaking to some guy in Germany that worked for Stihl, he said the mixture is actually proprietary and developed by Stihl, and modified slightly every once in awhile to further optimize it (he said they were aware of an ash problem when it first came out, which was fixed). Regarding Castrol, he said they just hire other big oil makers to blend it for them, depending on the region in the world, they use someone else.

@@em4703 The Stihl oil sold in Europe is made by Castrol and is an OK product. Here in the US it's blended by Omni specialty packaging, and it's not a good product.

Mobil-1 is better suited for use in a chainsaw. Mix it at 40:1

That should say HP. You gotta love autocorrect.

Depends on which MSDS you look at, they get updated every so often.✌

It can, as the fuel carries the lubrication.

I have not. Most kart oils are for extremely demanding application. It will not hurt a lower performance engine in any way. However it may not fully combust in engines not ran at extrean rpm's, pressures and and temps. If ran at lower temps and so on you may have some unburnt oil coming out of the exhaust, even with spot on tuning. From looking at the MSDS ant tech sheet, it appears to fall in between 800 road race and 800 off road.

Nothing wrong with it at all. I do think RedArmor is better, but you will never have an oil related problem with the Husqvarna XP+ oil.

Good question. The spark only starts the combustion process, after that the combustion temperature will not be affected. In real small engines with lower compression and rpm, an oil with a lower flashpoint is the better choice IMHO.

@@Andyshine77 Thanks for such a quick response. So I have 1l of motul 800 oil and I want to try it in my 2 trimmers and 2 chainsaws which are 50cc. That doesn't seem to be the best idea 🤔

@@viracocha3125 Mix it at 50:1 and it will work ok especially in the saw, they work harder anyway.

@@Andyshine77 thank you very much 🙏

Well cross out the Stihl oil, it's absolute garbage. Any of the others will work. In extream applications like milling I would choose Motul 800. That said for normal use like just bucking logs I'd pick K2 or RedArmor, as they combust at lower temperatures during normal use.

@@Andyshine77 is the carbon buildup why you dislike the Stihl HP Ultra? I’ve ran it in my Stihl and Echo equipment for a while now. I sure hope it has not damaged anything. Do you feel the Echo will help remove the carbon? Would a dirt bike engine combust at a higher temperature than a saw?

Yes carbon buildup is the main issue with Ultra. RedArmor is high in detergency so it does help dissolve carbon buildup. K2 Is relies on the quality of the base stock to keep things clean. Here is a list of oils that contain high levels of detergency. RedArmor, Motul 710, Amsoil Dominator, Amsoil Saber, VP two cycle oil. Pretty much any oil with JASO FD Certification will help remove carbon buildup.

@@Andyshine77 Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions! Have you seen HP Ultra cause piston or cylinder wall damage? I have experienced the mentioned carbon buildup. Do you feel K2 would provide any better wear protection than Red Armor? I know K2 is a full triple ester full synthetic whereas Red Armor is only a semi synthetic.

@@austinmccutcheon3270 I've seen light carbon scoring and stuck rings with Ultra. Ultra lubricates OK, it simply burns dirty. In all honesty I doubt there will be much difference in engine wear, maybe at higher temperatures. K2 like all real Esters penetrates into the metal slightly, it's also polar and clings to metal, and should be more thermally stable. That said a good additive package is important as well. Another oil I highly recommend is Honda HP2, can't believe I forgot that one. Really now I tell people is what not to use more what to use, as there's plenty of great products available. I ran K2 for a long while and it works extremely well, but so do the other oils I recommend. So u suggest one that fits you needs and budget, some are fine with ordering some prefer to buy locally.

Motul 800 is good for max protection. K2 and Super M would be fine as well, Honda HP2 is up on my list as well. If you want to use something with castor I recommend Maxima 927, but as you know castor comes with some drawbacks. Klotz also has a lube for RC engines. I'm no RC expert so maybe check out the forums and see what those guys like.

@@Andyshine77 Is the Motul 800 and K2 thick like Golden Spectro? I remember mixing it at 50:1 for bikes that called for 20:1

I don't know, I have member used that oil.

Red line oil for Rc engines,or still ultra bp.

@@jhnfalls I received a recommendation to use Amsoil Dominator at 15:1

40:1 will be perfect in your saws. 80:1-100:1 may work in small trimmers that run at lower rpm, are tuned rich and produce much less power, never run anything less than 50:1 in a saw.✌

@@Andyshine77 Thank-you!

@@stephanmackie5281 I'd prefer ethanol free fuel, but it's to expensive to run exclusively if burning any amount. It costs $25-$30 a gallon. Nothing wrong with using pump gas as long as don't store it with it in the equipment or leave it sit for more than a month. I add Stabil to my pump gas so I'm good during seasonal use. For storage I use TruFuel. Why did you quit using K2?

@@stephanmackie5281 I'm mixing at 40:1 with K2. I'll look into the other two you mention tbough.

@@obeconoberougle9497 Most builders including myself no longer recommend H1R or 800 as they inhibit combustion. They do work well in extreme conditions like milling, as engine temperatures get hot enough long enough. Mackie is likely listening to hotsaw 101, he's a jerk and we've gon back and forth on the great oil debate. Any of these oils will protect a saw, K2 has a good balance of film strength and ability to combust at the combustion temperatures chainsaws have. K2, Yamalube and Amsoil Dominator have the right flash points for use in a chainsaw. You can run pump fuel all you want it will do no harm to the engine. The issues with Pump fuel that has ethanol is storage, shelf life and it's hard on the fuel lines and carb diaphragm. But it will not harm the engine, and the components in new equipment has been designed to deal with the ethanol, and does so well. The other guy was just trolling me.✌

The HP2 is for premix and air cooled engines, you don't want to run the injector oil as premix.

They're a lot of good option available. For you're application 50:1 or 40:1 will be just fine. The manufacture oils are usually nothing special. All of Echo's oils are top notch, Husqvarna's oil is good too, not a fan of any oil Stihl offers. Unless you're burning 10 gallons at a time the cost is low, as most just burn a few gallons a year. Maxima K2 or Super M would work great, Yamalube 2R and Honda HP2 are less expensive an awesome products. Synthetic blends can be as good or better than full synthetics. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/dirt-bike-2-stroke-oil

@@Andyshine77 Thanks for the advice I appreciate the in-depth reply! I'll probably only go through a few gallons a year, since my equipment is winterized from November through March typically so the usage season is a little shorter than people in the south. I'm just curious though, it sounds like you really recommend a lot of dirt bike / motorcycle 2 cycle oils for small engine equipment like this, is there a particular reason for this? I'm assuming since they are engineered for high revving engines being ran hard that is also carried over to outdoor power equipment as well? I know a lot of this stuff runs at 7-8,000 RPMS+ at WOT, so I know heat can be an issue especially in the summer time when these things are being used as well.

@@DIYDad1 The oils develop for outdoor power equipment are usually made by the same companies that make oil for motorcycles and what not, but are made to be as inexpensive as possible for profit. The oils I recommend are generally far superior due to the more extreme requirements as you suggested. As long as the oil is develop for air-cooled engine, not water cooled it should be fine and all 2-cycle engines. Out of all the outdoor power equipment manufacturers Echo probably offers the best lubrication products. Most of these small engines will operate at around 8,000 to 11,000 rpm under load. Some chainsaws for example can rev to 16,000 rpm without any load. Heat is mostly control with tuning of the carburetor, more fuel equals cooler engine temperatures.

Used MC1+ at 32 to 1 in the Ryobi weed-eater (30) years ago. (Spec’d for 50 to 1) - richened out both needles. Yes, it smoked a little when cold. I found the faint smoke then *comforting* - “I put oil in it.”

Both will do fine, Amsoil Dominator as a fine option and a bit more affordable. Honda HP2 is another favorite of mine. If you buy Amsoil order from their website. www.amsoil.com/

More oil reduces wear, increases durability, keeps the seals lubed and improves ring seal. The testing with a thermal coupler in exhaust port showed increase of 5°F when running 32:1 vs 50:1 this is a nominal difference, the benefits outweigh the negitives by a long shot. I recommend 40:1 in a regular work saw.✌

@@Andyshine77 Outstanding, from looking at your video I was sure you would have the answer! Cheers!

It's perfectly fine to use, just shake the bottle before use, as some of the additives could settle.

@@Andyshine77 thank you for the fast reply ! Thanks again for your time and your help.......Benny

There will always be some oil that comes out of the exhaust, especially if the engine is tuned a little rich. It's nothing to worry about, and in some ways, it can be a good thing. I would stick with the Motul.

@@Andyshine77 ok right, thanks for info, what i am suspecting is the ALCO oil does not leave any drop of oil ( at the exhaust) & searching the net i did find company closed down since 7 years ago, so maybe is very old stock & its complements are no so effective & maybe that is why not leave any single drop of oil ? perhaps will not buy it again, Thanks

Thank you!

That's all I ran before it was pulled from the shelves in the U.S. It's a phenomenal product I highly recommend it.

@ Robert Clifford Where do you buy the Mobil 1 at? I can only find it on Ebay and it's like $30 a quart!

@@obeconoberougle9497 it's readily available in most other countries.

@ Robert Clifford I did some research and found out that it's not just been pulled from the shelves in the U.S. It's a completely discontinued product. That explains the outrageous price for what remains available.

@@obeconoberougle9497 Last I knew it was still available in Europe, but that could very well have changed. Plenty of other options available✌

It doesn't burn completely in chainssws, they simply don't get hot enough. It does offer incredible protection in extreme conditions such milling with chainsaw. The proper oil should be chosen for each application IMHO.

bobe8888 My tests on 2-stroke Motul 800 oil here in Brazil are better and Militec has been able to improve the life of the chainsaw even more, but show your explanation and it's a shame that here in Brazil we do not have these varieties of oil that you mentioned in the video.

CAFS Forever engine 2 Stroke's Sounds like you're using the best product you have available, and Motul 800 is definitely a fine product.

I would just stick with the highest quality JASO FD oil.

40:1

The manufacturer of Stihl oil depends on the country and region. In the U.S the oil is made by Omni specialty packaging, in some countries it's made by Castrol. The Castrol is better, than the Omni stuff, but I'm not a fan of either. I was running Ultra in my 4-mix engines, but even there I was seeing too much buildup. These are my current top recommendations in no particular order. Motul 710, and or 800. Honda HP2. Maxima K2 or SuperM. Amsoil Saber or Dominator. Echo RedArmor.

@Andyshine77 Andy, any thoughts on BelRay H1R 2-stroke racing oil?

927 won't effect the furl lines, ethanol in today's fuel is what will cause that. Fine bubbles could indicate a pinhole in the fuel line, but you will always have some bubbles in the primer bulb.

@@Andyshine77 Thank u for your prompt reply. What gas do u recommend?

@@billrimmer5596 Any non ethanol fuel. Canned fuel from is excellent, but expensive. www.pure-gas.org/

It's a poor choice. It leaves little to no residual oil in the engine do to it's low flash point, and extremely thin viscosity, it also has very low shear strength. The engines I've seen ran on the oil were dry inside, even when ran at 32:1. One of the worst oils available IMHO. Hope this helps. ✌

@@Andyshine77 Thanks so much! I needed to know that. Of the commonly available oils, what is your recommendation? Have you ever tried the Echo Red Armor oil?

@@ozarkhomesteader3879 RedArmor is fine, it was better until the reformulation, but it's still much better than Lucas. Echo PowerBlend is good stuff as well, as is Poulan synthetic. If you want to save a few bucks look for a local motorcycle/off-road shop, that will have at least one of the oils I have in the video.✌

Great film strength, but it's very hydroscopic so it's not good for equipment that sits any length of time.✌

I know Motul is available in Europe, so Motul 710 would be a fine choice, 800 will work too, but I do prefer 710 in chainsaws.

It's not that great, it's only JASO FB certified. I would choose something else personally.

32:1 works well in saws, as they make more power and have more advanced porting than other OPE like trimmers and blowers. I personally run less old in my trimmers, blowers and so on. With proper tune 40:1 to 50:1 is fine in those applacations IMHO, tuning is more important than just about anything else.

bobe8888 yes sir. I tune everything limiter caps go byebye,lol. I just MM my new 2511 echo and tuned it when i pulled the muff off the exhaust port had plenty of oil , like wipe tour finger in it oil. I put that mercury oil up there with yamalube. Imho. What u think? I value your opinion.....

Again I don't want to put that oil down, but once more it's not really made for air cooled engines. Yamalube 2R is a good basic oil, burns clean, great for rust prevention and lubes well enough. However I do prefer Honda HP2 and K2. Any of the oils in this video "except Ultra it produces lots of carbon in saws and castor 927" will work awesome in a chainsaws. You just have to pick the oil that fits your application, I pick K2 for best general use, while still offering the exceptional overall performance.

Mike Powers 40:1 is fine in most applications. 32:1 will give you the best results if you use the saw hard, or run ported saws. Good oil does not make up for quantity of oil.

Thanks. I was reading on arborist forums that others were running the K2 @ 50:1. Wasn't sure if that was too thin even though 50:1 seems to be standard for stihl/husq oils. I run a mix between ported and stock saws so I'm just trying to find a good middle ground for the k2. I think I'll shoot for 40:1

K2 runs extremely well @ 32:1 I even in AutoTune saws. 40:1 is fine, but seeing you have some ported saw my recommendation will always be 32:1

andrew russell I have not ran that particular oil. From looking at the info, it's JASO FC certified and has a film strength right around most OEM oils. Because of this I would not hesitate to run it at say 40:1 or 32:1 I personally prefer oils with a little higher film strengths, but honestly in a chainsaw it's not necessary as long as you tune properly and run a bit more oil.

I have never used Castro RS, but I do know of it and it is supposed to be a top performer. That's really all I know of the product.

710 and 510 would both work very well in your intended application. Super M is not an injector oil, it too thick and bad for the injectors.

@@Andyshine77 super m comes in an injector version and a premix version. They are two different products. With that said, the motul 510 is about $43/gallon, and the 710 is $56/gallon. Do you suppose the 710 is significantly cleaner and better than the 510? Can't find much info on the internet about 510

I doubt there'd be a huge difference, but I can tell you from first hand experience 710 burns incredibly clan. I forgot SuperM had an injector version, Maxima came out with an K2 injector oil about a year ago as well. Motul also make Scooter Power 2T, I don't know if it's less expensive or not.

I went ahead and bought a 4liter jug of the each the 510 and the 710. Couldn't decide, so I'll compare to see if the 710 is 20% more pleasent to work with. I'm sure they are both overkill in the engine protection category. If I can't tell a difference in how clean the exhaust is, then I'll stick with the 510 in the future. When working in the brush and cutting wood with saws and lingering exhaust, it becomes easy to tell if its clean. Husqvarna xp oil is an instant headache for me. Amsoil saber is a real blessing with low levels of noxious exhaust, but a little harder to get than motul.

@@michaelscafe2818 Whan I talked about burning clean I'm referring to the deposits left in the engine, not the smell. 710 isn't bad when it comes to small K2 has little smell I ln a warm engine, Saber and Dominator are very good in that respect as well. The worst is Stihl Ultra, and RedArmor. RedArmor is fantastic oil, but it stinks.

Should work fine.

Good question! but I don't won't do that, each of the oils I recommend has it's place. Some are better in different equipment and applications.

@@Andyshine77 I run the Motul 800 2t at 50:1 & no complaints with 91-93 ethanol free with no complaints. Only time I run the Stihl HP is when I buy a new saw and get it to extend my warranty.

@@chrisp556 don’t run that stihl oil… just buy it for the warranty

Great protection, seems to burn clean. However it doesn't like to combust well, so you have to open up the jets nearly 15-20%, fuel efficiency goes out the window. Plus many modern saws simply can't supply enough fuel without drilling out the jets. This is what I and many others have found. Again it lubricates well, but jetting is an issue in outdoor power equipment, for this reason I recommend something else.

@Andyshine77 I asked a similar question and this was the answer I was looking for. Thank you.

Honda HP2, and Amsoil Dominator or Amsoil Saber are going to be the most adorable.

@@Andyshine77 thanks for the response appreciate your time

I have never used it, but I here good things, and it's JASO FD Certified, oils that meet those requirements are always going to be top of the line, use it with no worries.

And it messed up the top end.

Yes 32:1 now many of my saws are ported so they run a bit hotter and the rpm's are a bit higher, so 32:1 isn't always nessairy. I recommend 40:1 as a minimum. Some saw models like the husqvarna 372xp and 390xp have weak bottom ends so with those saws you want to stick with 32:1 for sure.

bobe8888 makes sense I have a ported 390 been running motul 40/1 seems to work ok but been wanting to run 32/1 but I think motel will get to dirty , do you think k2 or hp2

@@aaronstiles9799 I believe you ment to say Motul 800? Motul 800 is an oil that has really high film strength and a high flash point. This means it protects extremely well. The issue myself and others have with Motul 800 is that it doesn't fully combust, so you loose a tiny bit of power and you'll get oil residue coming out of the muffler exhaust port, even at 50:1. The only time I've seen oils like Motul 800 and Klotz R50 run correctly is when the saw was used as a mill. For normal use the slightly thinner oils with a bit lower flash points are probably better, they seem to burn more completely, make better power and protect really well.

is the castor 927 ok as long as its mixed well i ran it in mx for years still do

Maxima Super M would be perfect for that application. As would Motul 710.

TPS TPS I personally have no experience with these oils, but like you said, some some swear by them. From what I've seen on the forums and elsewhere they do at least burn seem to clean. What I'm leery about is the really low viscosity of the oils and to a less extent the low flash points. This makes me question the stability of the oil under heavy loads. From what I know the oils that offer the best protection, that also burn clean, are ester based oils. Only Castor oils will have better shear strength, this however comes at a cost, as Castor oils make a mess and gum everything up.

bobe8888 Thanks for responding. I'm really new to learning about two-cycle oils and their properties. Are there any resources you can share or recommend in regards to certain properties of oils and their best suited applications? I can find a whole lot of anecdotal evidence, but we all know that doesn't necessarily mean much.

bobistheoilguy.com can be a good resource, but you'll have to sift through a lot of info. Some of the better info come from the Cart racing. Any actual proper testing hasn't been done, at least not by a private individual. The best so far has been a guy running a few tanks of fuel than removing the top end for inspection, very little real info there IMHO. What I suggest is learning about the different base stocks and additives that go into common 2t oils. Film strength and the flash points will also help you chose the proper oil. When you know whats what, you'll get a good idea, which oils will work in a particular application. Experience comes in to play too, I know how an engine should look when I get inside them. The best I personally have seen were saws ran with K2, HP2 and R50 for whatever that is worth.

Motul is better in a work saw.

It's garbage, like most of their products.

The carburetor on a chainsaw needs to be adjusted regularly due to environmental changes. Switching from 50:1 to 40:1 will not have that much effect on the mixture, but again regular carburetor adjustment should be performed for optimum performance and engine life. I recommend Stihl HP Ultra over regular HP oil outside the U.S as that oil is made by Castrol oil, the U.S version is inferior. Husqvarna's new XP+ oil is top notch.

Did you mean that HP Ultra in US has different formula compared to HP Ultra sold in european market? If so what are the main differences?

Made by Castrol www.midlandtool.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Stihl-2-Cycle-Enigne-Oil-Mix.pdf