The best affordable joinery saw for hand-tool woodwork. 

that side eye at the end on to the spear and jackson…classical. Hysterical!

"It looks like Batman took up woodworking" SOLD!

Spear and Jackson are a British company. In the UK where untill recently there was no such thing as a "Back Saw" all saws with a spine were called "Tennon Saws". Which saw you call a dovetail saw and which a carcase saw etc is personal choice. In the shop you would ask for a tennon saw of the apropriate length and tooth count. Say a 14" 12tpi tennon saw as a carcase saw, 12" 14 tpi tennon saw for Joinery and 10" 16 or 20 tpi as a dovetail or trim saw. Since the most hobbyists now learn from RU-vid many UK manufacturers now name saws by function as that is what customers are asking for. I assume the name Tennon saw came about because it describes the function of a back saw i.e. it can make both rip cuts and fine cross cuts with a thin supported blade.

I have the S&J saw. First thing I did when it arrived and I first held it was make a disgusted noise, and then took a rasp and some sandpaper to the handle. Five minutes later, it was 1000x better than it was out of the packaging. Whoever designed that monstrosity of a handle certainly never held the damned thing. Or was an alien.

this was hilarious to watch. Great humor and editing.

I love your humour in getting the information across

A quick tip for cleaning different shipping oils off of metal. Use soap and hot water. I know everyones hesitation with RUST but if you use boiling hot water to rinse, it drys quick. Then rub some machine oil on it and rust won't be an issue.

Rex, you’ve got an awesome channel. Thanks for all the great info you’ve put out there.

Love it, you're putting all these out in an order that goes right along with stuff that I'm doing which require tools I don't have and you're explaining it all... MANY MANY Thanks !!!! Keep it up Rex !!!

This got me pondering... I'm a former shipwright and I've known scores of shipwrights. I've never seen this saw take up space in any of the master woodworker's shops. Japanese style saws are the dominant theme for that spot in woodworking from my experience. I'm not saying anybody is right and someone is wrong, it's just an observation. Kinda interesting for me to reflect on.

You're doing a good job, Rex. Keep it up.

I got the spear & Jackson, and I learned with her. If I could make it Berner I would love it. Well done, lover your videos

Rex: I have been calling you my RU-vid woodworking guru for a bit. One piece of advice you gave shines over any other. "If you have hobby skills a wood shop will take you gladly over someone walking down the street," I paraphrase. I have an interview for a frame carpentry job on Friday and a woodworking shop coming up soon. #thankyou #headingtopatreonrightnow

As a current owner of the spear and Jackson tenon saw I am very glad I watched until the end and I am certainly excited to follow along

I took the hint a long time ago, I saved up and got the Veritas, haven’t looked back. Can’t wait to see how you do with that side glance saw.

Thank you for this great information and providing beautiful knowledge also Thank you for this wonderful and inspiring video

Excellent and thorough as always! I haven't gotten into fine joinery like that yet, but maybe this is the incentive I need!

I recently discovered your channel and I've been binge watching the last few days. All can say is: Wow, thank you! Finally a channel that is truly for the poor man! Your common sense, no bull s#*@ advice and way of doing things is so refreshing. Don't get me wrong, I'm huge fan of Stumpy Nubs, The Samurai Carpenter, & those guys. Paul Sellers is my hero, I want to just like him when I grow up. But don't have and probably never will have the money to buy all those really, really, nice tools... Because they are really, really expensive. But I can relate to your videos, and watching you, and seeing you do what you do, really inspires me. Thank you for showing that you don't have to be very wealthy to have a decent wood working shop.

Great video! I've toyed with the idea of buying a cheapish saw like a Spear&Jackson and making my own tote. I'm looking forward to what you come up with!

looking forward to see what you do with the S&J. I have the 12" but rarely use it.

I love the tool comparison videos. I'd like to see a shootout of new affordable panel & hand saws, such as the Spear & Jackson saw that Paul Sellers recommends. Most of the other budget saws cost $70 and up however.

I just tried searching for best hand saw for beginner woodworker -- I haven't even started on my first project yet, but I need a decent handsaw that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. 100 (even slightly under at 70-90) is a bit out of my price range. I've been watching some videos stating my first project should be a work bench, however, I got a circular saw for Christmas and I don't even know how to rip boards without a bench, so I figured maybe I should make a pair of sawhorses, and the one video I liked (the design I liked) requires a hand saw to cut angles. So I'm still looking. In any case decent video even if I can't really afford either of those saws, you earned a subscription.

I have the Veritas dovetail saw. Such a pleasure to use!

I have the Spear & Jackson saw and I agree that it does not cut well. So looking forward to see how you fix it.

This series is amazing

Great video, I’ve been thinking on both those saws for a bit, I now feel safe pulling the trigger on one.

It's like you have an in with the NSA. I literally just Googled "Best entry level handsaws" and the notification for this new video popped up. Thanks for helping me with my purchase!

Ah the joys of retasking handsaws. I found a nice 14" post WWII Disston backsaw that has the same problems as the S&J. I decided to refile it to a hybrid cut (because it is 13 TPI) and make a new closed Disston pattern handle from maple. I find that Issac Smith's templates on Blackburn Tools are excellent for getting the correct size for you hand. Best of all, he offers them freely for private use. Looking forward to see how you make over the S&J.

Rex, Thank you for the great insight on a few of these tools. Dang, that Veritas is sexy! I actually picked up a quarantine special: an old Nicholson backsaw and it has a similar build to the crown. Can't wait to dress it up and get it going on some tenons! Always enjoy your content. -Clayton

I spotted the Veritas in the line-up immediately and wondered how it got there and how you were going to 'splain it. You did a good job ... because it really is an excellent saw (I bought one when I was much more flush with cash), but knowing that it is possible to make a cheaper saw work well is still encouraging. I'm looking foward to the follow-up video.

Dude thanks for the videos, i finally made my first work table, and it was the english joiners from your video, and its brutally stable and tough, thanks

I am very eager to see how you fix that cheap saw up. I just got a rusty old Miller Fall's no9 off of Craigslist that I'm going to attempt to fix. I have never restored a tool before, so I'll be rewatching your plane set up videos A Lot. xD

I'm in on the new letter. Wish I could afford a cheap plan but being out of work has not made it easy. Maybe one day I can say that I helped fund someone teach and explain, like Paul Sellers ( yes, I know, big compliment there). Keep up the amazing work.

Rex, you're just too much fun! Keep it up

Eagerly awaiting the Spear and Jackson makeover

Rex- Reason you ruined the fine teeth on the dozuki is you are applying pressure that is beyond the fine tooth capacity. Per Katz-Moses, you use only the weight of the Suizan dozuki saw itself for downward pressure because you are trying to produce a smooth cut to just inside the waste of joinery cuts. I add just a teeny amount more pressure on mine, and it seems to hold up. Saying isn't super fast. But I (you, they, we) don't reach for hand tools for speed.

I have the S&J model above this, that has the removable handle and teeth that can be sharpened. It was really rough straight from S&J. I flattened the teeth on an avail. Reset the curf and properly sharpened it. I now have a saw I like. Not sure if my time was more than the difference of getting a better saw up front... but I love the challenge and that's worth something.

Hi Rex: I am one of those people that could not drill a straight hole in a million years; but do love tinkering. I have found a simple jig to drill straight holes in long parts with my drill press. A piece of 4 inch long, 2x4 with two elevating feet with studs from McMaster. The elevating feet are mounted into the 2x4 with tee nuts. Now I can level the item being drilled. Finally I can drill straight holes in longer items.

I recently got a Veritas dovetail saw. Yes, it is a good saw but I find it to be not heavy enough. I also recently picked up a tenon saw and decided to try the PAX instead of the Veritas. Beautiful saw. It is packing good weight and cuts well. Not hard to start your cut.

I cannot stand to see a good creator with good content under a 1000 likes. Glad I could help you over that 1k mark, from 999. Haha.

This is your best video yet. I’m sorry if it was easier than your other videos, it was just really entertaining.

I think Paul Sellers recommends S&J for the same reason you do. Good starting point for cheap, and you can improve the handle, etc. Good stuff, man!

I've used a hacksaw for quite a lot of precision work, and I got to be honest, it works really good in a pinch.

Really enjoyed your presentation on this one. But then, I always do.

👍👍👍Thanks for useful tips and detailed information.

I have a Stanley hardpoint saw that had a handle very similar to the Spear & Jackson, pretty uncomfortable. I took it to the router table and went around it with a 1/2" roundover bit and then it was perfect. I built a whole cabin with it all by myself.

About the end of last summer, I ended up in a trade for a "mass" of saws, including possibly the longest back (tenon) saw I can remember ( maybe 24+ inches?) It's only been lightly used, so good teeth and cut and near infinitely resharpen-able. There was a "normal" sized one with a miter box, and a couple solid set-ups for angles, with the fancy table top frames, fence, clamps, gauge in degrees... Just waiting for decent weather as I have to work outdoors... AND I'll be figuring out which to keep or trade out. Got about four Japanese saws but passed one on for a struggling noob' who instantly fell in love with it... Looking foraward to your handle tweaking / advice. These are reasonable (cost-wise) for that kind of practice (hot-rodding) for max benefit. ;o)

God I love your attitude Rex. Spear and Jackson makeover rather than Veritas. Man after my own heart.

Fantastic video, Rex! Thanks a lot! 😃 Stay safe there! 🖖😊

Well I appreciate you back!

Traditionally saws were the most expensive item in a joiner's tool kit. Use a good one and you'll see why. The big veritas tenon saw is more than worth the money. If you don't have the money you have to invest the time but I really encourage people to invest the money, a good saw is sooooo good.

I've used the Spear and Jackson for about a year and you know what....I'm Happy! I didn't feel I had to resharpen it, it cut very well on a rip ..and go for the hand saws from SP both are beast for...crosscutting.The handles are awful but feel nice in the hand.

looking forward to the video on the saw remaking!

One thing that I picked up about back saws is a trick to test the cut "balance." You draw a number of lines vertically down the face of a scrap board from an end. Then cut down one line starting at one side. Don't attempt to follow the line. Hold the saw properly and let the weight guide the cut. Watch whether the cut wants to wander off to one side. If it does, lay the saw flat on a good surface with the side of the saw toward which the cut wanders upward. Then lay fine grained, hard sharpening stone on the face of the saw and covering part of the edge and run it gently from the heel toward the toe of the blade. No need to press. Any over-set tooth will be abraded off. Repeat until the kerf is straight. You can also narrow the kerf and smooth out cut quality this way. Just be sure the narrowing is symmetrical. Peter Sellers may have a piece about this.

I've found that many commercially sharpened saws are set for too wide a kerf. Also, if you set up test rip cuts making parallel cuts in the end of a board, if the saw wanders consistently to one side, you can correct that wander with a sharpening stone. Once you get straight cuts, you can adjust the width of the kerf and clean up the cut the same way. I won't go into detail but it works really well.

Wish this video was out before Christmas when I got my S&J. Had decent reviews on Amazon. I’m glad to know it’s not just me that’s not finding it acceptable.

I appreciate you work and the money you spent on this review. When you talk about rebuilding a production piece to make it “better” it becomes a time investment and our time is worth something. So in doing a rebuild are we really saving money? If that is the tool we have in the first place then I understand. However, buying the right tool first and once is far better use of my limited resources. Thank you for your videos.

I really liked Rex's presentation here. If you plan on buying and modifying the Spear and Jackson, the saw Rex shows is the 9550B. The 5412K is the same size but the blade is removable already. For $7 price difference it is probably more economical to buy that one rather than buying separate bolts & nuts. We'll have to see if Rex can find a cheaper deal. I look forward to the next video.

I'll anxiously be awaiting the tweaks you make to this saw to improve this budget saw, to be a better functioning tool!

Supremely relevant as always Rex! Thank you. Not so long ago I bought a Hultafors tenon saw, I guess it would run at around $165 American so it's up there. While it is a nicely engineer saw it is extremely aggressive at about 8TPI (I was uneducated!) and ruins anything "fine". Eeesh, now it has to go into my 'site kit' for hacking larger stock and framing work. I have the Veritas carcass saw now, very good, but still need a replacement tenon for the larger square cutting of stock in the workshop which is yet, not large enough to warrant pulling the panel, crosscut, or rip hand saws of the wall if you know what I mean? I may have to explore the Crown as you suggest but am looking to get a minimum of 13TPI. A mention of TPI in your video would have been the cream on the pudding! Thanks again.

This might be a bit long.. I have been a woodworker of limited means for over 40 yr.s and I believe your channel does a great service to those who fear to fear to move forward in the craft because they can't afford the perfect $200.00 + low angle plane or whatever. There is great joy and a massive amount of skill development in taking an old or sub-standard tool and re-conditioning it to make it a good or even great tool. My own tool kit is fairly small and most of them I've had for decades. But: they are sharp and well tuned and do what I want. If they don't, the first thing I question is "Do they need re-tuning?" So: Thank you Rex! Now for my own advice... Quality measuring tools are an absolute must most work, and I have some great ones having also done machine tool metal working. However, if you are careful with them, quality DRAFTSMAN'S tools are wonderful things in the shop! I had mine initially just for drafting, but one day needed a big square for lay out work and grabbed my "T" square... Since then my drafting tools are an integral part of my woodworking layout tools. They are (mostly) inexpensive, and very precise. They are relatively fragile though, so be careful of them. As another example: look for a good, used, professional grade compass set. You will be amazed! Now that so many have switched to CADD the old, manual drafting stuff is often just thrown away.

I recently purchased a very nice, very old, large saw-sharpening vice. Made of iron and very heavy-duty. $30, because few people use them these days. Let me tell you, sharpening your own saws is wonderful. I highly recommend it. Not difficult to learn. Doesn't take long, and they don't need sharpening often. Don't be afraid to learn! Once you do it, you'll love it. I was intimidated at first, but it's much easier than I thought.

Another option is making a little frame saw. They're a little light, but fairly easy to make. I made mine out of cherry, a piece of twine and, as a stopgap until I get around to getting a bandsaw blade, a hacksaw blade with a pair of cut nails (another stopgap) to pin the blade in. Juuuust try to not get too into making it look nice, I accidentally fudged the ergonomics a bit on the handles on mine.

The Spear and Jackson surprised me how well it works. Reason for getting was I sent a twelve inch vintage Disston to Matt Ciani to make really dialed in, like the saw a lot and wanted a perfect small crosscut in till, but eyesight won't allow me to do cc filing anymore. After seeing another you tuber recommend this saw though it might fill in for awhile for crosscutting.First thing was to strip lacquer off blade and handle with acetone, then reshape handle, filed teeth, at first not impressed but kept at it. Settled in with about .039 total kerf and a pretty aggressive rake. It works very well now and crosscut or rips well.

Dear King: the next project ... Frame saw ! Cheers !

Funny thing about this video, I actually bought that Spear and Jackson saw before watching this video, and got it delivered today. I’m curious to see what mods you plan on for that saw!

I have a couple of other options in the lower cost category. I have a Lynx and a Big Foot. One crosscut and one rip. They both work great for me.

Rex. This evening, I used my Spear & Jackson Tenon Saw - identical to yours - for the first time (in the year or so that I have owned it). I am making a Blackthorn walking stick for a friend of mine who has had hip problems all his life - it's his birthday soon (late 60's). I cut it from the wild and have seasoned it for 8 months in my home. Anyway.... I used trad saws like this way back when and I don't have much problem with the handle, though it could be better. I have downloaded your pattern to improve it and will probably do so at some point, just to see if I find an improvement. I also didn't find much to be worried about in the cut that it left in the solid Blackthorn; my problem was that it skipped and jumped a lot during use. I realise that Blackthorn is a very hard wood but it was held close in the vice. The portion I cut was a little over 1.75 inches thick, which isn't much and should never cause such jittering, so I agree that those saws need fettling before use, though it is sharp but the set seems all wrong. Luckily, I have the files and a tooth-setting tool at hand. I paid a very modest price for it on Amazon and I know how to deal with the problem, so I would urge anyone starting out to get one - and if they can't fettle it themselves now, get someone else to do it until they acquire the stuff needed and learn how to do it - I'm sure they will be satisfied in the long run. One tip about saw handles...the angle of the handle should aim your energy towards the middle of the blade. Get that angle correct and you are on the right track (may need some forward adjustment to suit your own preference). The same goes with planes - the handle should aim your effort directly towards the cutting iron edge (slightly leading towards the toe is ok but never towards the heel). That is the rule of thumb to go by.

Thank you Rex! I already have the Spear & Jackson saw you showed in the video, it's 25€ (27$) new on Amazon Germany. Now I can't wait to see what I need to do to make it work better! Cutting my first tenons and dovetails with that one (I just can't afford another saw dedicated for dovetails right now) seemed way harder than it should have been, even for a beginner like me. I still like the quality of the material and I'm sure you'll make the most out of this thing!

Good solid video Rex 👍

Although the price makes it out of scope for this range, my son bought me a Floorip Toolworks Dovetail Saw for x-mas - based on what you said here, think Veritas on Steroids - and it's entirely hand made as well ... brass back, thin blade, beautifully sharpened and set and the fit of the handle, as you said, you'll never want to put it down. Of course, I'm afraid to damage it by using it lol. Can't wait to see what your modified saw is like. Now... if only I had a Jointer's Bench .... with a vise ..... hmmmmmmmm

Rex, I’m considering making my own backsaw with some hardware from blackburn tools, you should do the same. It would be a great fit for your channel and a lot of fun I think!

I am soooo looking forward to the make over of the Spear and Jackson. I keep coming back to the page to see if you have released that one yet.

Love this video. The humor etc. Q: please. Different between Tenon and Backsaw?

cant wait for the reworking of the saw.

Thank you for that.

Vaughan BS250D Double Edged Bear Saw Handsaw $34. I’m a serious hand tool woodworker, without any financial constrains. I have a half dozen really nice hand saws. The Bear Saw is the only one I use.

Love my veritas carcass saw! I use it as a dovetail saw

Fast forward 1 year to Nov 2021... The Veritas and Crown (and Flynn) are now priced the same at $106. What the--!?! Spear & Jackson looking better every day (still $40). Thanks for saving the day again!

Thanks Rex for yet another great video. I am a total novice but am trying to advance from everything being made from big box 2x4's, plywood and screws to something closer to real carpentry. I have no shame in admitting that I make all of my big cuts using an electric compound miter saw or table saw, both with heavenly WD Quinn blades. But I have no saw that is suited for use in real carpentry. You mentioned that if you didn't have anything else, to get the Veritas and never look back. I looked at it and it has a near twin for the same $90 price. The one you showed us is optimized for cutting with the grain (rip) and the other one is optimized for gutting against the grain (crosscut). The only differences are the rip saw is 12 TPI with a 10° rake angle and the crosscut is 14 TPI with a 15° rake angle plus teeth having alternating 15° bevels to sever the fibers. If you could only chose one (the one to rule them all!) for roughly the next year, which one would it be or something completely different and why? I am behind on far too many projects to put the time and effort into improving a cheaper saw with doubtful results at my skill level. The links to the saws are here: www.woodcraft.com/products/veritas-rip-carcass-saw-12-tpi www.woodcraft.com/products/veritas-crosscut-carcass-saw-14-tpi Thanks for the videos and hopefully even answering this question. Jeph

I have this saw. I am looking forward to your mods

Great one!

The end made me laugh so hard 😂😂😂

If yo put a little work into them, spear & Jackson saws are pretty good. A few years ago i bought a skew Back saw from them sharpened it for a rip cut and modified the handle. My favoutite saw for long rip cuts scince then.

Bought the GreatNeck 14” miter saw off Amazon for $15 about a week ago and have been very impressed with it so far. Easy to saw right from the package, hardwood handle and can be resharpened. Still like my Japanese saws for precision but the cheap western saws seem to work better in pine for my work.

Rex! Love the video. Question for you. What would the drawback be of using a miter saw? Or how could one convert a miter saw into a tenon saw? They look very similar with the stiff back and thin blade....

Know what I'm asking for for Father's day

We use a mix of the spear and Jackson’s and the crowns at school. I always use the crowns for my demos. We have a lot of issues with the s&Jc saws. I tend to find the handle is too high on the blade, the crowns we have, like the veritable are lower so your effort is more in the direction you are sawing. With the s&Jc it’s just...weird, they jam and wobble I guess, because the force is just not in line with the blade but it seems more than that. I’m looking forward to seeing how you fettle it into something more useable (although my technician might not be if she has to sort wh if them). The other thing we struggle with with both these saws is hardware. The s&Jc has rivets that work loose and are smaller than most of our spare saw screws so we end up drilling the blades, not easy as the steel is good quality. With the crown ones the hardware uses saw screws but they seem to work loose even with thread lock. Of course the kids don’t tell us until they’ve lost the bits on the floor, but then that’s kids.

You Sold Out all of the spear and Jackson saws on Amazon. Good job 👍

Ever since I watched Paul Sellers saw sharpening videos I've become such a saw snob, lol. Anyway, he likes to tap down the teeth between two hammers to reduce the amount of set and make a thinner kerf. I've had good results from doing the same thing. I bet that S+J saw will tune right up when it's sharpened right.

What you call back saws in the U.S. are always called tenon saws in the U.K. Spear and Jackson should stick to making gardening tools, and I say that as a Sheffielder.

I simply do not understand how ANYONE could give this video (or any of Rex’s videos) a thumbs down. There’s good stuff here folks!

I cannot wait to see what you have in store for that Spear and Jackson - tool abuse is underrated my friend, and you can only make crap better!

it's ridiculous how amazing the Veritas handles feel right? Got the extra fine dovetail saw because it wasn't that expensive and it felt so damn awesome when I picked it up. I did consider getting the tenon saw aswell, but the price tag... and the carcass saw is just too close to my dovetail saw to make it worth buying. I do consider just getting a vintage saw and actually restoring it a bit like you suggest so often, though it's a bit harder to get one in good old Germany...

I literally just bought that same Spear and Jackson saw last week hoping to do exactly what you’re going to do and now you tease me with a 2 week wait...

The good thing about bad handles is that you can make a new one

Very nice!

Hey Rex! Loving the video. Just wanted to throw out there that my Dozuki has survived Wenge with little issue. That might be a manufacturing issue.

Wow, lots of work on that one! I love your criteria, exactly the same things I've been looking for. I did end up getting the Veritas Rip back saw after picking up an old Disston. I had to de-rust it, and make a new handle that I copied from the original, and resharpen it. The Disston is good, really good, but it's 10TPI and the Veritas is 12TPI. I'm happy I have both though, but almost always reach for the Veritas. The Disston was 15cdn on eBay, and 15cdn shipping. Can't wait to see how much you squeeze out of the Spear and Jackson, if the plate is good, the resulting saw should be go, no?

Rex, where would you place a Lie-Nielson Saw in this line up? Thanks man - always enjoy your content.