Italians are the best designers, French make the best car suspensions, Germans make the greatest wa.. ehm sorry the best boots, Japanese have the best technology, Greeks make the best food, Africans make the best athletes, USA makes the best movies (at least they used to..) Australians make boomerangs lol lol lol !!!
Cedric & Ada Channel salad recipe: 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 pear , 1 apple, cube of butter and a garden hose. Seriously love the review (as always) and really want the knife. Thanks!
It's starting to. A lot of videos this year. Honestly Lionsteel isn't as well known as brands like Bark River, Esee etc so I don't think people are aware of them and the quality as much. I have two just recently bought from them. Might get a pocket knife of theirs. I like the quality and price.
Incredible knife and sheath... the Italians paid as much attention to the sheath as they did the knife! Wait til you see the sheath it's a work of art! Love this fixie!
I know this is an old review now but I just bought one based on this and a couple of other very positive reviews. Price in Australia as of September 2023 was $300
Mine just arrived today and I love it. It's a beautiful looking knife especially with the black micarta handle. Feels great in the hand and I can't wait to take it in the field. Solid comparison to the other knives, especially to the Fallkniven S1 which I considered purchasing.
Bought this knife on the back of your excellent review and I have to be honest I've not been disappointed. I have several fixed blades and usually I go for one of my scandi ground knives, but since buying the T5 I haven't used anything else.
I got one of these, and an m311 spelter made of elmax and an M7 satin finish. Keeping the spelter as a combat blade and the T5 as a companion for the M7 as woods knife and general utility. This is an awesome, awesome blade right out of the box. It's got a quality that would surely last for generations
Good review bro....you answered all the question's I would ask in great detail.I wish every review I saw was this thorough --- seriously---great job.Greeting's from Kentucky, U.S.A.
Thank you, the review is as good as the Lionsteel T5, excellent! I needed a stainless knife and i was looking for it for several weeks, now i found it ! 👍take care!
I have had knives from dozens of makers... fallkniven, Chris reeve, bark river (most overrated of all), trc, bradford, just loads of different makers and the two lionsteel knives I own are as good as anything by any maker. The fit and finish is first rate. They just cannot be faulted. Their designs are excellent and the ones I've used at least have been very practical and ideal tools for their intended purpose. When you weigh that all up then consider the prices you just can't go wrong. Most of the knives I own that have anything like the same level of fit and finish are usually at least double the money (and usually not as well finished either). I really cannot recommend lionsteel enough.
That's all true, except the fact, that there are better made knives in terms of quality and performance. TRC Knives fro example, they come with way better heat treatments on any of their steels, and way better edge and blade geometries. What an inexperienced eye can't see on Lionsteel knives. are those 2 issues they have. Their edges (thickness behind the edge is a huge factor) thus the main bevel geometries and their heat treatments, are very poor. Also, there are better steels (more apropriate for the intented uses of those knives) For example, their M4, M5 and T5, all would be way better knives, with Vanadis 4 Extra, CPM Cruwear or any other kind of steel, that suits such a knife way better ,than the steels, they have chosen. Add on that the lower quality heat treatment and blade geometries and you have the reason, why they don't cost 400$ as other knives of that type cost. They are not bad knives, they still offer decent sheaths and exellent handles for the price, it's just that they could be WAYYY better!
@@John-lr3ixIf I'm not mistaken, it was only a Knives and Tools shop special version. They made only a few. The knives where sold before I've even got the chance to check them out.
@@nikitaanikin4190 I'm not saying all bark River knives have issues. I'm sure most ppl are totally happy with what they get. But I bought a bravo 1 from knives and tools last year and it was a real mess. At the tip end one side was totally ground flat as if whoever made it totally botched the grind. I don't know how such an obvious flaw got past their quality control. But I may just have got a lemon. All I know is I won't be risking the money they charge, especially here in Europe (we'll over £300 for a bravo 1) on a bark river ever again. I believe there was a time a few years ago that their fit and finish was perfect. But since then they have become much bigger and I don't think they put as much pride in their products. It seems to be more about fulfilling the number of orders than in putting out amazing knives. But this is only MY own experience only and I'm sure plenty of ppl have been perfectly happy with what they got. But one more issue I have heard of is them selling knives as being x steel when it is a totally different steel. On the cedric and ada channel he ordered a 154cm knife and it rusted in no time. It turned out it was just regular A2 but sold as 154cm. So when you buy a 3v bark river how can you be sure that's what you're getting? So all in all it is just too much money for me to risk on a knife when I know there are other brands that I can order from and know I'm going to get a great product... TRC and lionsteel for example.
LionSteel make surprisingly good fixed blades. I had the smaller M4 in M390 for a while and it was great in every way, except I came to realize that I don't like flat ground blades on my fixed knives. Part of the learning process of collecting and using knives I guess, but from now on only convex or scandi (or a combo of both) for me.
I've evolved in the exact opposite way. I used to only go for scandis but now I've been preferring flat or sabre grinds now. That said my favorite and most expensive knife is a Bark River Rogue with the convex grind.
Beautiful blade. I almost got the M5 version which is equally nice but it's got a rounded off spine so you can't use your ferro rod with it. So i got this one instead. Worked as a charm on a few of my kayak camping trips this summer. Razor sharp, 5mm blade thickness, built like a tank, sits nicely in the hand. One of my best investments ever. I think i will get the M5 as well.
I got the M4 in M390 steel. Such a nice knife, probably the best workmanship of any knife I have. It's fairly small though, a great hunting/food prep knife or for when you want an unspooky fixed blade like a hike on a popular trail. Doesn't do a firesteel either due to the rounded spine.
Pete, the new Carothers "Basic 5" is now available (late August 2021), and I hope you can get one to test and compare with the Lionsteel T5 and Fallkniven S1. Nathan has the price point down where the Basic 5 competes with the Fallkniven. And it's a tough 3V heat treat.
That's a "Custom" level quality compared to a mass produced knife. Carothers makes the BEST heat treatment of the CPM 3V steel, where Lionsteel makes some of the worse heat treatments on their steels. Also the geometries on the bevels of Liosteel knives, are also very poor. They can't be compared, both in terms of quality and performance, those to makers, are light years in difference. Custom > Semi-Custom > ... Factory mass produced. Between Custom and semi Custom knives, the difference is not big, however the difference between Semi-Custom to Factory made knives, is HUGE, both in terms of quality and performance of the knife. I like Semi-Customs like TRC Mille Cuori, or Survive Knives GSO 4.7. Those 2 knives, are some of the best, if not THE BEST knives on their categories out there! Better than Carothers knives in my opinion, one reason is the fact that CPM 3V, is a bit overated steel. It takes much to sharpen for the edge retention it offers. Other steels like CPM Cruwear, Vanadis 4 Extra, provide more than twice the edge retention and are easier to sharpen, without lacking in edge stability. I like TRC knives more, because they choose the best steel for the intended use of the knife, and not what will sell more. Most people don't know much about steel, and they just follow the trend, the fashion of their era. That's 100% wrong. Knives are tools meant to be used. TRC knives, LT Wright are the 2 makers, that I suggest to people. Those 2 are the best makers, that aren't difficult to get one of their knives.
This T5 is the most comfortable knife I have ever handled... As you mentioned it you need to thin out the edge a little to make a good cutter out of it, that's what LionSteel knives has in common... For my large hands this ine has the perfect handle. For medium sized hands I would recommend the M4 or M5...
Great review, I love my Lionsteel T5. When you talk about "backing up" the edge, what exactly is your process, and what kind of bevel are you looking to end up with? I normally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker to sharpen all of my knives. Thank You!
Awesome review, thanks so much. I just picked up one of these recently in the "stonewashed" finish and I haven't had a chance to use it yet...but man it is a good looking and good feeling knife. And you're absolutely right about the sheath, it is fantastic. This thing, if it performs okay in my use, is going to backseat my Fallkniven for sure. I wish the micarta was a little more fibrous a la Busse type knives, but that's a minor complaint. I could easily scuff it up some more to afford more grip, and the ridges in it already do a lot in that regard.
I just placed an order for both the T5 and an H1… I’m going to see how I like the leather but I usually end up ordering Kydex sheaths. The T5 leather is probably fine but I intend to carry the H1 Scout carry and I’d much prefer a fKydex friction fit over the leather snaps.. Thanks for helping me make my decision.. I’ve shopped both Cudeman and Joker in addition to LionSteel. I’ve got 3 of their folders all of which are superb.
Hello. I really enjoyed watching your clear and structured review. Ery good. Its an awesome knife. I have a question: After all the time..do you still like it or prefer it to other knives? Any weakness occured after that time? Woild be very interesting to hear...Thanks and greetings from Germany
I recently got my eyes on Lionsteel and then Muela. Both manufacturs seems to make the best possiblu knives. I recently got my hands on the Muela Husky in RWL 34 and micarta. Best knife ever. Flawless except for that same thing with the secondary bevel. Does anyone know how the two knives campare?
I have the m4 in m390 it got a ridiculous good heat treat i put a 15/15 degre on it and thinned it and beat on it and it so damn good never chips or micro chips it just keeps going.
Really like it but wish they left the spine alone. I know the Italians just ahve to have style in everything they make but would prefer a plain old spine without a taper.
Hosepipe and apple stew? can't wait, No more for me chef, I'm stuffed,
6 лет назад
Thanks for your vids Cedric. I was planning on getting a fallkniven, either the s1 or a1 as my main knive is the ka-bar jarosz choppa, so I wanted a smaller companion knive. I think you just sold me on this one. What are your thoughts on the coated t5 ?
This is like a esee or bk with a better combination of blade characteristics with slicker blade lines and even cooler looking, which is a hard thing to beat. I'm not saying its better but definitely looks better. I want one I was in a knife shop yesterday and stumbled upon it. I thought why have I never seen this badass knife before. I would like to see it compared to the rat 5 knife, which I also want
The Becker BK2 is basically a sharpened crowbar, not saying Its not a nice knife because it is, it's just too thick IMHO. I have an esee 4 and it's great, I think that the esee 4 and the Lionsteel T5 are close but I would take this over the s35vn blade in the esee because it's prone to breaking while batoning wood.
You can just bring the sharpening angle down a bit. I believe that's all he was referring to, not actually thinning the blade itself. 17 degrees should do the trick
G'day :) Thanks mate T5 sounds elite and for $250 it should be. I wonder if u put the Lionsteel and the Fallkniven in the same leather sheath, place them in a dark corrugated iron shed with some Barry White playing, would u get the ultimate small folder popping out 9 months later?? Just a thought Cheers.
Hi, I wanted to know based on your experience what rating do you give this Niolox steel for fixed blades? And I wanted to ask you if it is true that it is difficult to sharpen it? Let me know what you think, thanks Michele.
Nice video, thanks for posting. One question though, I'm not too sure what you mean about the edge being thick behind the edge? are you referring to the grind angle? Thanks.
It makes me wonder why a thinner edge isn't put on it to begin with, you thinned the edge and it survived being batoned through some gnarly Aussie wood. I really don't like redoing edges, I do all my edge work by hand and it can be quite a chore on tougher steels and probably impossible on super steels ( I don't know anything about this kind of steel).
That sharpening choil is quite large, seems a pity to me they didn't go all the way and wack a finger choil in there. Would that have worked ergonomically with the handle shape and micarta finger guard?
A proper choil need to be "around one inch" or more and when it is present, you are "forced" to use it (of you will have a leverage "one inch, or more, away"...); on a 5' blade make no sense to me, especially when the handle have a NICE AND FUNCTIONAL lower guard like the T5 does. The "choilless design" is safest, especially in "cold climate", when you frequently use the knife with gloves where it is also possible to have "less dexterity" (or none at all in extreme cold); i don't even know how many pairs of gloves i have ruined during the winter with the stupid "ESEE4 design" (eventually i filed "half more inch" of the blade to elongate the choil - that design is NONSENSE plain and simple -). ...OFC on a bigger knife is a totally different story. I do like 6/7' blades better but i admit that the T5 is very well made and i do enjoy use it (if the hell break loose, it is one of those knives, that i would be happy to have on me). Until you do not "nick" the blade, the Niolox is fairly easy to maintain in the field (with a "CC4" using only white side, or just "stropping it frequently on your leather belt"). The blade tend "to stain but not to rust", it is an overall VERY GOOD STEEL for "survival purposes" (at least for my taste and preferences); far better than 1095 (as a sailor i admit to have problems to keep it in shape). I am pretty much sure that you would not miss the lack of choil on this knife at all... P.S. Molletta never did anything that was close enough to my taste until this T5; this is THE FIRST "MOLLETTA DESIGN" that i like or buy (just to explain that i am not a fanboy - i truly consider this a VERY GOOD KNIFE - even more in this price range...).
Grappolidipalma Great points. I guess in that case, in theory, I would prefer a thinner finger guard, smaller sharpening choil and less exposed stock in front of the finger guard, just to bring that edge closer to the hand. But perhaps, it doesn't matter, sounds like you are enjoying using it. I'd be curious what the design intention of the large sharpening choil is, perhaps just to give it a longer life span as the edge wears down.
I can not talk about "the intention Molletta had in his mind" but i can tell you this (after some months using it extensively): - the sharpening choil make the "sharpening process" VERY EASY; you will not have "the stupid belly curve" that frequently come on blades "without sharpening choil" (i like to have it, I DO NOT consider it a "DESIGN MISTAKE" at all). - I do understand your point, about "have the blade more close to the hand" but for a "SURVIVAL KNIFE" (as i intend this T5) it is COMPLETELY irrelevant. Let me explain: for a "carving knife" the T5 blade is TO THICK, TO BROAD, a bit TO LONG - THIS IS NOT A PROPER CARVING KNIFE -. I made a spoon 2 weeks ago, with cherry wood, it is "doable" but not the best for that purpose; i think that "someone else MAYBE can feel the need of a closer blade", sincerely i don't know... "A knife is something SO PERSONAL that is close to impossible "to find something good for everyone". For a SKINNER is not that bad and, because IT IS VERY EASY TO PINCH (try to believe); the medium finger behind the guard, index and thumb on the blade - sharpening choil or not, make no difference to me at all - it does a good job as a skinner (there is better OFC but "it is honest in that regard"). For a "wood work" (or even more) "survival purposes" the "BIG GUARD" make a lot of sense to me; it is really SAFE TO USE (it is "fatigue/stress proof"). I personally take care of my knives but I USE THEM HARD, without much of respect (if they break, i no longer use them at all); 70% of what i did in those months with this knife, have been "gross motor skills" with a lot of "push cuts" on fresh and dry wood (very rarely batoning) - i did enjoy the geometry "handle/blade" big time, i do not remember one single time where i felt the need "of a closer blade" (the guard design otherwise, have been amazing for my taste...)... About this: "when you do a push cuts" (on something big or hard), the hand/blade tend to "inclinate following the cut direction" (especially when you are tired); i noticed that "IN MY CASE" the space between my hand and the closer part of the blade (where you do have the "sharpening choil and the guard") is "perfectly aligned and sized" with my "natural working angle" (to explain this better: "IF THAT SPACE WHERE SHORTER, I WOULD HAVE A PORTION OF THE BLADE UNUSED DURING THE HARD WORK" - hope this explanation make sense, my english suck - ). The last consideration is "technical" about the construction of the "SOLID 3D handle": a thinner guard would be prone to break (like it is now it is a tank). P.S. i hope they will make this 6 inches one day...
Grappolidipalma Your English is fine. I agree, I suspect the thickness of the guard could be a requirement to gain adequate strength from the handle material, as opposed to a metal guard on a Kabar fighting knife for example.
Really hate it when people review a knife and then admit they've messed with the blade/ edge prior to review so in other words they're not reviewing the product as is, they're reviewing their version of it making the review not relevant.
Tyson Hook .....got a bark river bravo 1.25 LT in cpm 3v. Really nice knife. Crazy sharp, and Ive had many nice quality knives like LT Wright and William Collins. Bark River makes some exceptional blades.
@@jay-rus4437 Thanks for the reply and nice choice, I'm more than likely going to go with a BRKT Bravo 1.25 A2. The Lionsteel T5 is definitely still on my want list but I've been wanting a BRKT for a few years now, so figure ill finally bite the bullet and pick one up heading into the new year.
Please help me with this decision: Lionsteel T5 vs M5 vs M4 I am looking for an alround knife for hiking, but also bushcrafting. Arguments for T5: more robust blade construction, geometry & long blade, but 250g & Niolox Arguments for M5: Lighter, more elegant, thicker tang, but Sleipner Arguments for M4: Lightest (150g), very elegant, thick tang and M390 steel (!) As of now I am leaning towards the M4 due to the M390 steel and its weight, however I am not sure about its much shorter blade.
I'd get the M4. Smaller and easier to carry with you, so will get more use. You can pair a smaller blade with a hatchet or axe for survival/outdoors situation.
Completely agree with pairing a smaller fixed blade with a hatchet and folding saw for most situations. If for whatever reason you absolutely want the bigger blade, I don't think you'll be disappointed by either the T5 or M5, though I think the sheaths are different so you may want to add that to the mix. It's my understanding that Sleipner is a modified D2 steel that's supposed to be even better in knife applications when heat treated right. I already have both a small (4") and a large (6.5") fixed blade but am looking for excuses to get both the M4 and either the M5 or T5, lol
Thank you for the answers, I think I will go with the M4 just because I will probably get more use out of it. I tend to carry a cheap folding knife on all my trips, being hiking and mountainbiking primarily, but also camping. Just when I go bushcrafting, I have a cheap (420hc) full tang 6,5" knife which I tend to carry. As it seems, the M4 will replace both if paired with a little slikysaw or so. As for the hatchet, I do not believe I will have the money any time soon to get a decent one, thus I think I will pass on buying a cheap one for now and get a better one whenever I get serious about bushcrafting. I just hope the walnut handle will hold up to abuse, as I just couldn't get myself to go with the polycarbonate G10 variant. Visually it dosn't do the knife justice.
nice looking but for the price its not so good that steel is not in my opinion that good.....you could get a lot better knives with way better steel for the same price....i have the lionsteel m7s in sleipner steel (also alot like D2) is sweet to play with but would never trust it as a survival knife....good video....get yourself a Bark River knife in cpm 3v or in cpm cru wear!!!!
I have seen more Bark River fails than Lionsteels. Bark River, ruin their heat treats while grinding them. TRC Mille Cuori , or if on a budget Terava Jaakari puukko 110,140, or Skrama... These are the toughest and most unbreakable knives, that can take more and do more, than any Bark River. Chris Reeve Pacific, Green Beret etc.. are something like 56 hrc, to give you an example...I would choose Bark River, only for hunting knife, and that would be, something like the Fox River. That's their designes style, a good hunting knife. For Survival, you also need versatility and ease of sharpening. Bark Rivers convex,edges, are neither easy to sharpen, nor versitile, as a saber grind.
@@greekveteran2715 never had any issue with any of my bark rivers... jakkaripuukko 140 is nice i have 2 and i have 2 skrama 80crv2 is tough but you have to sharpen it all the time, D2 is garbage in my opinion, there must be a sale on it every new knife coming out seems to be D2!.....i really like cpm 3v, AEB-L and m390....the sleipner steel lionsteel uses is just slightly better than D2.....if im concerned about toughness CPM 3v, cru wear, 5160, 52100, s7, AEB-L, 80 crV2 is great but you gotta give up some of that edge retention....for a survival knife i want a strong knife you can find ways to sharpen knives its easy to just carry a small strop or just wear a leather belt but if that knife breaks it doesnt matter how good the edge retention is... im rambling....just my opinion!
@@christopher_martin That's why I made the comment, for your opinion! I have a bad let's call it habbit, being perfectionist. And another bad habbit I have, is knives that cost much.. I always search for opinions and I totally respect them. I am not perfect, and I always learn something new. Thank you for sharing your opinion, lately, every time I go for a Bark River, my friends remind me, that they are not 100% covered, byt the quality a Bark River should have, and try to turn me on other brands like LT Wright. That being said, my next one, will probably be the Bravo 1,25 LT, if I'm lucky to find one, otherwise, I'll go for the Bravo 1 LT in 3V. Thanks again! Take care
@@greekveteran2715 LT Wright is awesome!! the only issue i have with LT Wright knives is he likes to use thin blade stock, for some knife tasks thats best but for a survival knife i want something beefy and bomb proof....i have heard people say bad things about bark river but i have never seen it for myself...i like there spa treatment anytime you can send a knife into them to be resharpened polished fix dings in the handle etc....and if they cant fix they will replace it for life! that alone sells me on there knives plus im a knife collector also not just a user and i have to say i love the variety of handle materials they offer for the collector side of me.....i dont normaly spend 250-350$ on a knife but when i do its usually a bark river....thanks for your comment as well im always up for learning anything new....have a great day and a wonderful Christmas!
What does back it off mean? You said it twice. Repeating it doesn’t make it any more clear. Try to use different words to explain what you mean by back off the blade.
