The Best Tiny House Trailer! 

We think so too!

+College Tiny House We really think they've done a great job with this design, and using the discount actually supports us too :)

+Dário P. Glad you learned something :)

+Bryant Ford We really wanted to get all the trailer info into one place :) the thing about doing RU-vid is that we can be ourselves and do whatever we want ;D

Thanks for watching! Don't forget to ask for the Tiny Nest discount if you end up buying from Iron Eagle :D

Thanks for watching :)

+ameic Thanks for watching!

+John Norris Indeed, they've adjusted a few things (for the better) from what is in our as-built 3D model. Hopefully we'll be able to model their new trailers some time soon and provide those for download as well :)

+Tiny Nest - Cool

+Victoria Thibodeaux Thanks for watching!

+Taylor Ward Nice :)

:D thanks for watching!

+Kimberly Bainum :D

+Joshua Weaver Thanks for watching :) and yes I've really been able to apply different things I've learned over the years into this project to make it a bit high-tech :D

+bigolmoose69 Nice ;)

;D

+FateDelamorte Thanks for watching!

They have used a few fender type I believe, since our model has 45-degree angle on it. However, our framing basically boxed the entire fender in anyway so it didn't make a difference in our design.

Our personal project doesn't need to worry about harsh winters, since we live on Vancouver Island, BC. So you'd mostly have to thicken insulation, and ice-shield the roof for colder climates :)

Thanks for watching :)

+WAMx3 vlog Thanks for watching :)... you shouldn't need a permit if you don't exceed the width and height limits, so it's up to you how long you want to go... we figured 20ft would be enough for a single sleeping space plus the essential rooms, but still enough for two adults.

Thanks for watching :)

We always disclaim that we're no engineers, but we believe it to be very solid. If you're wondering about the floor joists being free-floating (in a sense), they don't really bear any weight other than the floor itself (comparable to the roof)... and the entire structure (including the floor joists) help tie the trailer and house together in all axes... if that makes sense ;)

Many thanks, Jake & Kiva!

Definitely give them a call and talk to Rob. The website could use an update, but speaking with them directly is the best way to get accurate and current information. I know they are looking into providing even more lengths and options, but you'll have to ask for yourself to find out where they are at with them.

To get the most accurate 3D representation of a width other than the base 100", please email us requesting a custom model and we can make you one (usually within a week). The base 100" models that you receive in the main download are polished into a finalized state that is not easily adjusted in this way.

Wow thanks - very generous of you. Based on what I decide about the wall sheathing below, I'll probably take you up on your offer.

As is usually the case, a phone call really is the best way to discuss details like that... I almost always place long-distance calls through google... not sure if you can do that between continents though :P give it a try!

+Christopher Cook :)

Not exactly sure what attribute you're asking about here, but if it's related to the trailer itself, I would definitely recommend giving Iron Eagle a phone call to sort out any specifics.

+Adam Giehtbrock Nice. Are you talking about an aluminum shell for the house??

+Tiny Nest yes, at least for the outer portion of it. the inside I would still want to have some wood exposed especially from the loft wood joist 's. but the more I read about this trailer and the weight of the lumber, it sounds like it will hold...

+Adam Giehtbrock Ours certainly holds! and we did not skimp on materials/weight. Make sure to watch our building series (on this channel) for all the details, and if you do end up buying an Iron Eagle trailer, make sure to ask for the Tiny Nest discount!

:)

It's all about flexibility. If the hangers were preset, the joist might interfere with where you want to poke a drainage pipe down. There are lots of situations where you might want more control over where to lay out your framing. Additionally, we will soon be publishing a new video about advanced thermal breaking on tiny house trailers that will explain even more :)

Thanks for watching! We didn't have any building experience before we started either. We just did a TON of research online, watched some youtube videos and purchased a couple tiny house building DVD's. You can always check out our building series too to see how we did it :) AS for the trailer, I believe Iron Eagle delivers almost anywhere! I'd give them a call . Good luck with your project!

+JJ Gionet We don't have all the info for each piece... If you want to get into the fine details, give Rob (the owner) a call :)

+Nikko Gutierrez I believe it is steel with a powder-coating of some kind, but for proper answers and prices you should contact Rob at Iron Eagle... you can find a link to their site and info on the Tiny Nest discount on our site here: www.tinynestproject.com/building/

+Kathy Lee It is close to 2', but you'll want to check with Rob about specifics. We got the specifics when we started out Sketchup design so that we could be sure we weren't going to exceed the limit.

+1timby You'd have to talk to Rob about the axle options. I would assume you could get over-rated axles if you were building with some SUPER heavy materials. Regular framing gave us a lot of control and ability to make decisions and changes during the build, but SIPs are definitely an interesting option that we've been thinking about if we ever build another tiny house.

Tiny Nest I'm looking at options for something to place on some property that I own. What's pleasing to me is that I don't get raped by the local municipalities with a Tiny Home on wheels. However, we live in an area that gets severe weather. So I worry about this type of home being destroyed by tornadoes, remnants of hurricanes or one of our major wind/rain/hail storms. Thanks for your responding. I really enjoy your vids as they very well done & very informative.

+Tiny Nest I'm glad you didn't use SIPs because I like the way you're showing the construction of EVERYTHING, but, yeah, SIPs would seem to be the way to go. I wonder how much more they cost for materials and how much you would save in weight. It would seem that if you combined SIPs with something like standing-seam roofing on the roof and walls you could save a lot of time.

MakeMeThinkAgain I also wonder about attaching a Shipping container to a the trailer & making modifications for a tiny house. :)

We are huge fans of Iron Eagle in particular because they pioneered the sunken floor and side flange extensions. You can probably get something to suit your needs out east, but if you want an Iron Eagle, they recommend a hauling company that can bring it across the country... you should give Rob (the owner) a call for more info.

We had a bathroom scale in the garage... each time we wanted to weigh something, I (Jake) would weigh myself, then pick up the material in question, and weigh again. The difference is the weight of the material :)

+Andrew For what it is worth, the joists will of course be holding the ledger in place through the fenders, and, the way our frame will work, the ledger and joists will be sitting on top of crossmembers that are flush with the bottom of the frame-not underneath (we'll be putting plywood/flashing under the whole frame instead of on top of cross members welded beneath).

+Andrew Thanks for supporting us :) I would suggest using something like a 16' rim-joist to span as much of the trailer in one go as possible. An on-edge joist can easily span the length of the fender in my opinion, it's kind of like a header. You could always drill your own holes if you wanted to add a second bolt anywhere. Have you worked out an alternate crossmember layout with Rob? (make sure to ask for the Tiny Nest discount if you end up getting an Iron Eagle trailer ;D)

+Tiny Nest Hi again! Sorry for the long delay. Lots to get sorted (as you well know). We love the subfloor beneath the top of the frame, but Rob isn't building out to 10' wide (yet), and we have a kid, will build a loft, and so are getting a custom trailer at a competitive price designed much like Rob's, at 24'x10', 10,000GVW. It will be sleeping only: no plumbing, no fire, no kitchen (no weight). Framed with 2x6 on 24' on centre as possible. I might send along my sketchup mockup if it's interesting to you. Also, we've got a nice place here on Hornby, spare bedroom if you two wanted a weekend vacation some time. We'll be picking up the trailer by the end of February, so, would be cool to have you some time after then (no work-trade required! just thought you might get a kick out of it), cheers.

+Andrew Mark Sounds like you're on your way :) and thanks for the invite to Hornby! We'll definitely be in touch ;)

+bigolmoose69 We may model the trailers in Sketchup at some point ;)

+Jennifer Roberts We've been talking about modelling the different trailers for us in Sketchup... sign up for our newsletter on our website, and we'll announce it if we do that. As for 30ft, you should contact Rob for more questions about the trailers, and make sure to ask for the Tint Nest discount if you do end up buying an Iron Eagle :D www.tinynestproject.com/building/

ok thanks

I believe all the open ends are capped with plastic inserts that act as weather-barriers to the inner cavities.

ah thats good so if it for some reason gets anything inside you can dry it out, cool!

You'd have to speak directly with the owner Rob. Try giving them a call: (888) 509-5600

Each jack is rated at 7,500 lb, so 30k total (in theory).

+Žygintas Simsonas You'll have to contact Iron Eagle for current models/options. You can find a link to their website through ours here: www.tinynestproject.com/building/

They now make anything between 10 and 30 ft in 2ft increments. We're about to publish some updated videos about Iron Eagle so make sure you're subscribed to our channel!

Give them a call and see what their current shipping options are :)

Thanks for watching :)

+RedSquirreLx It's a PAD series tiny house trailer.

It's definitely not designed with shipping containers in mind... but Iron Eagle also makes all sorts of standard utility trailers, so maybe they have something better suited for that? Give them a call ;)

A 20' shipping container weighs (empty) from 4400-5200lbs from what I have seen, so yes Iron Eagle trailers could handle that, no problem.

They can be shipped cross-country, but you'll have to give them a call to find out more details. Keep an eye out for some updated videos on Iron Eagle that we're going to publish very soon!

Thanks so much! Been eyeing the videos they've been in for weeks now like a kid at Christmas. lol

Probably just days away from the new Iron Eagle videos :)

+Holly Laughter Ok I get it now GREAT VIDEO It was nice to know the trailer guys are watching your build and improving the trailers.

+Holly Laughter Heh yeah, we didn't do a very good job on our original trailer video, and there are so many details about it that should be shown, so hopefully this video covers absolutely everything :)

A shipping container? It's not designed for that particular size. We haven't researched how to move a shipping container so I would recommend giving Iron Eagle a call to find out what your options are. You can find their website here -> www.tinynestproject.com/werecommend/

We didn't post that info because options and prices change, but an unofficial estimate is between $3000 and $5000 USD depending on the length and options that you want.

Really good video and my statement here is in NO WAY directed to this company. I am taking some time for hopeful company's to hear the feeling of one consumer and learn from it if they choose to.. so there again, good video , informative, educational, thought provoking, not confusing and weren't jacked up HAHA. Mellow yet not meek either. so NOT to this company..... I am a firm believer in giving people an est and simply state it varies depending on many factors and the date posted is the date posted is an estimate so next week even could be looking at a whole new est. I will not pursue a company that acts so secretive ( or so appears anyway ) or shady ( as it appears, ) to not just put the info on that given day posted info and state boldly, subject to change on any given day and time. I have not bought many things OR even considered buying many things that are not up front as I don't choose to take the time to go through the whole investigation process.Or a sales pitch. A good product should sell itself along with customer satisfaction and honesty. I have way more respect for a company that " Owns " their price and feels confident in their product and pricing. If a company is higher in general, they could address that a buyer could perhaps get it cheaper but a great opportunity to state why a company feels like the extra money is worth it because........ Anyway I just wanted to help a company or someone starting one or thinking of one. No one hardly wants a long conversation without first knowing ranges of pricing. It is a waste of our time and the sales personnel. If you don't believe in what you are selling, create a company or product you do and or get another job. I know that isn't always easy but you will be happier and feel a sense of honor. I have had many careers from a nurse of 20 years, yogi instructor, model , etc and sold funeral plots when I was like 17-ish telemarketing but yaknow it is something some need one day so at least I was keeping it real. Good luck to all reading in whatever you do !!!! Be proud of what you do even if it's walking dogs and cleaning their poop up. We are all needed and valuable but often we only sometimes can pat our own backs because many just take things for granted and don't have a spirit of gratitude or Thankfulness to others.You be proud of you and sleep great at night in that regard. Have a great day and again, enjoyed this video !!!!!! I have a terminal illness so maybe I think a little deeper now and want to try and help even if it's stuff like this but as much as I am babbling, I bet many of you agree with me but it's OK if you don't. No hating from me.... and between being a nurse , mother of three ( all grown now ) and helping caring for a mother with dementia or Alzheimer's, I have for sure cleaned ALOT of poop so I am very humble like that and thankful I could/can help others . Even my dogs in the past needed a little help sometimes without being graphic. It's all good but I do understand some just don't have the stomach for nursing type work or caregiving on that level and many just can not help it. Sending love out there. Learn about SLE Lupus as it gets not much attention or support but is a living hell to live with. xo

Thanks for watching and leaving your feedback. We appreciate it, and agree with much of what you said. We (Tiny Nest) should clarify that we made this video for Iron Eagle because we run this tiny house RU-vid channel, and Iron Eagle is a specialty manufacturer who doesn't have in-house resources to produce online content. Since we reply to the comments, and have no direct interaction with sales, we don't want to speak on behalf of Iron Eagle when it comes to those kinds of details. We always recommend calling them directly, since you would definitely want to talk through all the details of a purchase of this nature anyway, and Iron Eagle will gladly provide all current pricing and options up front. Again, thank you for your comment, and hopefully we have also made ourselves clearer for all :)

+Larry Richelli I'm not sure what the currently available lengths are. Definitely give the owner Rob a call to answer more questions. Our website has a link to theirs, plus info on our discount: www.tinynestproject.com/werecommend/

This is definitely a busy time of year for them... make sure to ask for Rob, he's the owner (it's a small company).

Close to 2' from the ground.

Since we (Tiny Nest) just made the video and don't deal directly in the business, we always recommend giving Iron Eagle a call to get the current price sheet (ask for Rob). But don't forget that you can get $50 off by asking for the Tiny Nest Discount ;)

Ha, there was much background noise :P

I believe they are looking into making longer trailers soon.

Yes you could, but imagine putting that insulated member on a hot-plate... the top would still get ultra hot because metal is an excellent conductor for heat... IMO it's more important to separate your house materials from the trailer than it is to try to add any insulation to the trailer itself.

Yes that's true. Do you think there would be any benefit of insulating that as well?

I would think that it's more trouble than it's worth... but I haven't experimented.

Hey, you posted 3 comments on different videos which all seem to be on the same subject, so I'm going to reply to this one... It's a bit hard to follow (maybe you can make a drawing, or better yet a SketchUp model!) but it sounds like you are suggesting to build a rectangular frame first, and then attach the axles underneath. It also sounds like you are suggesting to screw your subfloor directly onto the trailer deck. These approaches are both problematic because putting the axles completely underneath means that you loose overall height (when building under the road-legal height limit of 13.5ft) and putting the subfloor directly onto the deck greatly reduces the effective insulation you can possibly achieve. The Iron Eagle design addresses both of these issues, which have historically been a problem with building on trailers.

$6000 would be about right for their longest trailer with all the options. Our 20' was around $3500 at the time, but the design and options have been updated since then. We always tell people to simply contact Iron Eagle directly for a proper quote.

or build it yourself for 3k?

If you have the skills, by all means. But taking on a trailer build is definitely more intimidating than the house itself, and that's coming from a pretty solid DIYer ;)

The advantage of the way we did it was indeed that we simply lined up all the framing directly with the perimeter of the trailer. But Derin does have a good point that the edge of the plywood is exposed, PLUS you push the finished exterior surface another 1/2" out which could become an issue if you are trying to stay strictly within 8.5ft wide overall. Putting the sheathing behind the flange means all of that wood is behind the house-wrap. I think either approach is still an option, but I definitely trust Derin's substantial experience. I like your idea with the floor-sheathing perimeter... and I would probably say that you might as well leave the entire 2x6 because trying to fasten through the last 1/2" on the edge of the plywood is a pain... lately I've been thinking about finding a material that is dense enough to bear the full weight of the wall, but has better insulation than wood, for use under the bottom plates... like Derin said: you can't put foam insulation under the wall because it will just squish/compress under the weight, but there might be another option to reduce thermal bridging in that area.

Thanks for the speedy reply. You're the best. Maybe I don't understand Derin's concern about shear. Is he worried that the weight of the sheathing, if not supported by the trailer because it is hanging over the edge, will cause it to have a tendency to slide down from gravity in relation to the wall studs? Or is he worried about wind shear getting under the sheathing and have the potential to pull it out away from the wall? If the former, that weight would have to deform or shear a lot of nails. If the latter, it may be a concern if the tiny house was moved a lot or if it was in a wind-prone area (there probably would be bigger wind damage in that case). I looked at Ep 38 Electrical Service to see the underside of your sheathing and you are right, the edge of the wall sheathing is exposed. What about this idea? Before the bottom plate is laid against the trailer, tape a 12"-18" strip of Tyvek around the parameter of the trailer and let it hang over the edge. Once the wall sheathing is put on, the Tyvek could be wrapped up the outside and fastened and the main Tyvek house wrap could be taped over it causing the house wrap to wrap under the exposed edge? If you like the idea, give yourself credit because it is just a variation of what you tried to do with the vapor barrier. Do you think this idea would have the condensation problem you had with your vapor barrier? I'm glad you liked my bottom plate idea, and you're right having more than 1/2" would make it easier to nail the flooring. I really appreciate the time you put into the videos to share your experience in a very detailed way.

I'll let Derin know that this comment is here, in case he can chime in. Can't make a promise on his behalf though. My initial reaction to your idea of essentially enveloping the exposed plywood edge with house-wrap is that if any water got behind the wrap somewhere up higher, then it would not be able to drain out the bottom, and could pool up and cause an even worse problem... I don't know though, maybe Derin can comment on this too, but there always seems to be a tradeoff with this kind of thing... I think I would sooner use a wood sealant on that exposed edge rather than enclose it.

Hey Dave, Derin here from Shelter Wise. The reason I prefer to have the sheathing on the inside of the flange is for two reasons (outside the flange works too) : The framing at the wheel well area is a weak point in a standard tiny house framing system and having the sheathing make good contact with 4-6" OC perimeter nailing and 8-12" field nailing is important to me ( I am no structural engineer but I have seen a few DYI failures at the wheel wells from a moisture and structural standpoint) and secondly I believe the WRP (Weather Resistive Barrier) should shingle that flange and then be imbedded in thick bead of sealant and taped with a construction tape. This system in my opinion will never have an issue even if the tape and sealant fail, none of our tiny homes have. It also provides a great seal for air leaks too, which wheel well are big air leakage points. As a side note, we did a test awhile back of how fast a dry sheet of 1/2" Cdx would absorb a gallon of water. We set the 4ft edge in a trough contain 1 gallon of water, that sheet absorb 1 gallon in 12 hours and when we used out moisture meter up the wall we found that water had traveled 14" up inside the sheet. I can only imagine what OSB would do. This was no scientific test but I found it pretty interesting. don't leave those edges exposed the ground releases a lot moisture. All best, Derin

Thanks Derin ... very thought provoking. Interesting experiment. I'm a bit confused by the ground moisture comment because, whether inside the flange or outside, the wall sheathing will be 24" above the ground. Since Jake and Kiva put their sheathing outside the flange and the bottom edge of the wall sheathing is exposed, are you concerned that that edge could absorb moisture from the air over time unless it is sealed?

+Jay Liptak You should have a look at our floor-construction demo video for this trailer: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dmMqREa0lWY.html we show a method of getting insulation between the bottom-plates and the extensions, and you can choose to sacrifice more height for more insulation depending on which is more important for your build. The tube extensions are all welded to the trailer frame (which is also tube), as is the flange, it's very solid. Many people seem to be concerned about the strength of the flanges, but it has to be considered that only a fraction of the house's weight will actually be acting on any one spot... it will be spread out. I'm sure you could bend or break the flange if you put thousands of pounds directly on it in one spot. If you have more questions, you should talk to Rob at Iron Eagle. He will have better answers, and they are constantly updating and tweaking their design. Cheers.

I'm sorry to say, but I watched your other video and am even more dismayed. Putting the sheathing between the rim plates removes so much strength from the house frame. And your comment about the flange not taking thousands of pounds of forces is incorrect because of the forces of flex the trailer and house will receive. I've seen 15 tiny houses built ground up, and perhaps 40 total houses. Only three had bent frames and they all were flanged extensions without any external arms and front to back tubes to box the sides. Imagine driving your car on the outside flange edge of the trailer(presuming the trailer wouldn't tip over), don't you think that'd bend the flange? This is dangerous in terms of chancing you investment and home to only driving on smooth roads, with no harsh winds and never taking snow or wind loads on the structure. Forget my insulation concerns, this is a poor poor trailer design.

+Jay Liptak Let me start by saying that we have taken our house on the road (not a particularly smooth one) as have many other Iron Eagle users, and it was as solid as we expected. Have a look at this video (and the ep before it) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Vdo45QHUpDE.html As always, we appreciate feedback and being critical of things in the interest of doing the best job possible. The thing to keep in mind here is that on a 20ft trailer, there is 45ft of perimeter of the house that is in contact with the flange. So even if you absolutely maxed out your weight limit, and all of that weight was bearing on the outer walls, that's less than 200lb per foot of dead weight. When going over bumps there will be extra forces exerted, but the suspension will dampen it to some degree, it's not like dropping an anvil onto the flange. Additionally, for the flange to "bend" would mean that the bottom-plates of the structure would have to twist... just imagine all of what would actually have to occur to the structure of the house, and to the trailer, for it to permanently deform at all... we're not engineers, but we believe that if the house was ever under enough force to bend the flange, you'd already be having other problems. This also applies to your comment about the different floor sheathing method removing strength... where are you seeing strength being lost? Since the bottom-plates (and ideally the entire walls) would be secured to the trailer with heavy metal fasteners, they would have to snap before the walls could move or anything like that... the trailer itself does the job that the floor sheathing might otherwise. We would not recommend this trailer if we didn't feel totally confident with it, but we do. Are you saying that you've seen 3 tiny houses with bent trailers? We've never heard of that or seen pictures. Are we misunderstanding what you mean there?

+Jay Liptak, we (Shelter Wise) have built 40 tiny homes all on Iron Eagle trailers since 2012. I have driven them all over the West Coast over mountain passed, into rough fields and have even dropped a few when I forgot to put the pin in the hitch (That was a bad day, trailer jumped off the ball on a speed bump) not once have I experienced a bent trailer or issues you described. Iron Eagle builds a great tiny house trailer.

+Duane C We first heard about them from word-of-mouth, and now they've got exposure on various online resources, including ours of course. lol yeah we had so much to link to at the end we made a bit of a joke out of it :)

+Dário P. ;D (my dad's name is Jack)