The BEST Trailer for a Tiny House! Full Review of the STRYKER 

bert skelton all good ideas! There are small gaps in the flashing for water to drain out the bottom of the trailer, so I figured that was good enough if any water made its way down there. In the center framing of the trailer, it's only 4" deep. the flashing there is directly under the 2x4's, so no room for insulation. That scenario does exist in the 8" wide perimeter framing, and I did skid insulation under those.

It's good thinking to plan ahead for water possibility, but I think would rather use plastic sheeting, and 100% no leakable floor than plan for water to get into those frame boxes. You can still get good flooring marmoleum at a width and in a length roll that would make for a 1 piece floor. A major water leak could be directed out a door. That's just what I would do, but all my money went into my wife's house! My projects are all low budget. True story about water... hehehehe, oh lord. I remodeled the master bedroom closet for her house, made a really nice solid cedar floating floor in there. It came out half great for a first time and novice diy guy. Later the master bedroom bathroom was remodeled in such a way, that the shower doesn't have a lip, It gently rises and you use a hand held sprayer, and there's no shower curtain. Sorry it sounds kinda crazy, maybe that's because it kinda is... So anyway, when I finished the closet, I said, look this door that goes into the bathroom needs to have a threshold, so in case water in bathroom goes towards the closet, it will be stopped. She refused to add a threshold unless it was made of cedar the same as the floor. She didn't want a mismatch, even though I had a threshold that matched the other parts of the bedroom floor. Hahaha, tears tears tears. Wouldn't you know, when plumbers were remodeling another bathroom in the house, my wife thought it would be cool to show them her insteresting shower in the master room. Okay, they looked at it while they had the water shut off at the street, and she didn't remember to shut off the shower when she put down than hand sprayer... Long story, it ends with me having to completely take apart the closet floor, number each piece, dry it out in the driveway, remove the floor padding, dry it out in the garage, and soak up everything with towels, run fans for 2 days, then finally put it all back together. It's been 3 years since then and you would never know it happened, but that damn doorway still does not have a threshold. Good luck on all your projects!

you only gain 4 inches.

Mark W I'm actually going to spray foam underneath the trailer. Stay tuned!

You will still have hollow tube transmitting cold.

It's going to be even better than that. Stay tuned!

I have an "out of the box" solution for water. Stay tuned

Just run the hose outside of the window.

arigato

Yes absolutely! Stay tuned, you will be very happy with what I provide.

Looks like maybe a 30', they typically run about $6,400, a place in missouri makes them too tulsa.craigslist.org/trb/d/tiny-house-trailer12ft-to/6739207840.html

I will move it around with a skid steer i have on the property. No plans to tow it to other locations yet.

This trailer has all the bells and whistles and came to $6.8k.

why?

OGB Because it will last longer (less susceptible to damp/water issues) and is a better structural bracing element. Also, you should paint the underside of the sheets (before laying them) to further protect them. I passed this by my father who is 'god' status with his 50+ years of construction experience.

That was our editor who asked why. I actually ordered Huberwood's Advantech but our distributor sent us GP Dryguard instead... and we had no time to replace it. In any case, I recorded a call with GP which will be published at some point here that addresses exposure to water. It's made with a new type of water resistent resin that makes in incomparable to OSB. I wanted to try this to see how it would hold up. I want a flat, stable floor, and wanted to avoid the potential for plywood to pull up. Each ply is solid wood veneer so it's much more susceptible to expansion and contraction. I'm not building our main house for at least 5 years so I figured this would be a good test case. Who know's, maybe this stuff is the best of both worlds. Time will tell.

OGB Yeah, my father said that OSB board can be rated structural now. Main thing is to have flooring with a life expectancy of the trailer. You have a lot of wood onsite with lots of energy (BTUs) so hopefully you'll go for what they tend to call a 'wet back' stove which will effectively drive your central heating. You're doing now what I'm planning on doing in 5 years.

In hindsight, I really should have used a 6 mil plastic vapor barrier. Mistake on my part. I there can be condensation that forms when it's cold outside where the subfloor sheathing touches the trailer framing. I will have to hope for the best. critters wont be a problem because of the sheet metal flashing under the trailer.

This is a temporary step. We will be building on foundation in the future.

Simon Crowner Oh, fine, bring science into it. ; )

good point .. i was thinking same thing

Yes, definitely, there is some. No way around that as we have made the concious choice to favor headroom and keep the floor as low as possible. If that wasn't a concern for you, you could put an inch or 1.5" of rigid foam on top of the trailer frame.

Yeah I considered putting a layer of XPS (25 psi) on top of the trailer frame, but I decided not to because I didn't want to risk having the foam compress over time.

I would drill 1/4" holes in the top of the hollow supports and fill it with Great Stuff blow foam then plug the hole

Indeed, other trailer manufacturers warn customers intending to build their trailer this way that the frame will act as a thermal bridge. However, if you insulate the hell out of the rest of it--and don't park in Nova Scotia in the wintertime--it shouldn't be that bad of a bleed. Each and every stud in the walls is also a thermal bridge, which is why I'm planning on using SIP's.

@@thomasross4921 Do you have a link for the SIP's you're using? I am trying to decide on whether to go steel or wood studs but what you're talking about sounds like an option..

I'm just in the spitballing stage, Drew, so I haven't made any firm decisions. I'm leaning toward the polyurethane SIP's as they have better R-ratings and better fire ratings than EPS SIP's, but I also have my eye on VIP's and aerogel. If you'd rather build with sticks, you can still fix the thermal bridge problem with strips of aerogel that are cut to fit over the studs. I think that product runs about $1.99 a foot and increases your thermal isolation by about 15% or something like that.

I believe it's from the ground

jfoley1987 thanks for the response

nickwoo2 Better be in a moderate climate and/or do massive amounts of insulation or face an oven in the summer and a freezer in the winter

You can get a free quote from www.TinyHouseBasics.com

Not cheap but worthit! $6.8k

That's a pretty good price for the quality in the vid, plus purpose built for home. That fully boxed steel frame is massive!

I wonder what a goose neck would look like with these alterations. and what the cost may be

James Zawacki He said this trailer was roughly $6800 semi truck trailers are far more expensive and then u are faced with only being able to move it with a semi.. Lots of big diesel trucks could pull this. Also if u look at most semi trailers theyre built with intentional arch to support the massive weights they carry making it harder to build on.

Deck height is the biggest issue, you can really only build 1 floor (no loft) on top of tall semi trailers.

You need Class A if you have a combined weight of 26k or more lbs (between both truck and trailer).

I'm building mine 10 ft. wide. I'll have to pull a permit every time I move it but I don't expect that to be more than once a year ($20 to $40 depending on the state).

OK, I SEE IT COST 6.8 K WEIGHT CAPACITY 21K LBS AT 28 FT. I PRICED ONE SIMILAR FOR $7.5K FOR A 32 FT WITH A EXTENDED TONGUE (FOR TOOL SHED & SOLAR BATTERY BANK & EXTRA WATER HOLDING TANK & PROPANE STORAGE) THE TRAILER LOOKS SOLID, I LIKE THE WAY IT'S BUILT. WELL MADE

More families are going tiny. An 8X10 for 1 person multiplied by 4 or 5 and it is still the same space per person. If there are 3 people living in the 28ft it works out to less space per person than the 8x10 does for 1.