The metal sprocket is important, right. Here in Germany I recently got the 2400W Oregon CS1400 with a 16"/400mm bar and without the gimmicky sharpening tool which requires a special chain. It is robust, strong, handles & cuts like a real chainsaw, chains are easy to sharpen by yourself and there's a variety of bars & chains to choose from, even changing to 18"/450mm. Perfect for all tasks where 230V is available, which in my case is all around the house and in the garden.
I had no problem I had my electric chainsaw for 5 years and it be same I always gave chainsaw oil and it be fine I used it to cut big tree logs and big breaches
What brand? I want to buy a chainsaw, but I need something reliable (and relatively cheap (because I am a cheap bastard)and not hard or expensive to maintain) because I have a lot of wood to cut and I'm tired of cutting with an axe.
You're worried about a common plastic gear that last forever if you keep oil in the thing. What you've bought there is throwaway chainsaw because the bushings for Oregon are not available, ever. And any electric chainsaw is throwaway crap if the bushing aren't made (and available for) to be changed.
Thanks for the demo, l may have to look into your saw. I just fished on old electric 240v McCullough out of a rubbish skip.... blue flashes out the side and doesn't run but it hasn't killed me.... I'm hoping it will be something fixable ?
The funny thing is that you can read the video description and it pretty much condenses an 8 minute time investment into 2 sentences. "There is one feature you need to consider when choosing an electric chainsaw and it's not easy to research. You need a saw that has a metal drive sprocket for the chain. "
Coincidence: I own the same saw -- 2 1/2 years old. It worked very well, and was used about 200 days a year. When the chain had to be replaced, I was shocked to discover that I had to buy a complete bar, sharpener, and special chain assembly for €35. The chains are not sold separately. Instead, I bought a normal chain for €11, but lost the sharpening feature because of the chain-tooth design. It worked fine until the motor apparently burned out. Maybe, it's only the toggle connection; I don't know, but that's what I'm trying to find out.
keep in mind it specifically states its a light duty saw. it is not meant to slap a 34 inch bar on and cut hard wood lumber for 12 hours a day 200 days a year on a mill.
That first cut wasn't bad, considering you cut directly into end grain. Next time try giving the log a quarter turn so the grain is parallel with the floor and make the cut through side grain. You'll have long pieces of shavings come out of the saw rather than the powder you got cutting through the end grain. Thanks for the review, I'm looking into one.
I have a downed smallish tree that is not that big a job ( thickest trunk diameter is about 10 inches, dropping down thinner after that point)...got a quote of 750.00 for someone to come cut it up and haul away...I think thats too much for this job....I am going to buy a 60.00 Homelite chain saw and do it my self and throw it away bit by bit...to me that is enough reason to get an electric chain saw that I will probaly seldom use again...certainly not for a job this size.... It all depends on what you are going to use one for.
You've missed the whole point of being an influencer on youTube man. Don't nag and bore your audience. You have a title for your video. That's what people are looking for. If you mislead your audience, you will create a counterproductive channel that no one wants to watch. You're wasting both yours and your viewers' time with pointless talk.
You know, when he was talking about electric chainsaws, I didn't stop to think that he was talking about wired chainsaws. Pretty sure if he got a DeWalt 60v or a Kobalt 80v, he would never have to worry again.
the batteries alone for those tools cost 199 dollars. for the 2.5AH battery. thats 2x as much as this chainsaw. if you're into the system and already have the batteries for other tools it might make sense otherwise not really.
@@danielroden9424 Well the DeWalt 60v is $160 for a 6ah. And the Kobalt 2ah, is $100. Yes that's still fairly expensive to replace the batteries, but considering you probably wouldn't have to replace them for 3 to 5 years depending on how well you take care of your equipment, it's not such a bad investment. But yes, once you're already into the ecosystem of battery equipment, then it makes more sense. I currently have six tools that run off the 80V Kobalt batteries. But where I think battery equipment shines the most is in weed eaters, leaf blowers, and lawn mowers. I definitely wouldn't compare an electric chainsaw to a 465 Husqvarna.
I've been using corded, (and gas), chainsaws for about 40 years now. As far as I know, there are no more corded chainsaws with all metal gears - and I've looked for one. If you want one for sawing smaller material, (4-6 inches), look at the Harbor Freight saw. Right now it's on sale for $40. If you are looking at cutting larger diameter wood, I can recommend the Black + Decker 15 amp, 18-inch. I've cut 31" Ash with mine. While it does have a plastic gear, it's still a robust saw. It will cost you somewhere in the neighborhood of $90-$110. Stay away from Remington, the plastic gear is very prone to stripping, (but at least it is cheap to replace.) Whichever saw you buy, follow these rules: 1) *Always* use a 12 gauge extension cord or else you run the risk of burning out the motor. 2) Do *NOT* push the saw too hard! Sometimes we get impatient, but plastic gears don't like to play rough. If you are handy, take the saw apart when you get it and put some lithium grease on the gears and repeat once a year. Also, if you don't know how to sharpen a chain, take it to your OPE dealer to get it sharpened, a dull chain will work the motor too hard. Keep the chain out of the dirt, it will ruin the chain and bar. If you follow these suggestions, the saw will last many years.
Plastic on metal parts is why the Germans lost WWII. They didnt use them. Hurt their production. Imagine your ME109 falling out of the sky because of a plastic flywheel. Lol.
I am betting those chains cost twice the price of any other, also wouldn't like to be using a sharpener when I can't see what it's doing . Imagine the chatter effect on that sharpener.
I've been wanting a Makita cordless chainsaw for several years but I'm done buying into new battery systems. The nice part about the Makita is that it is direct drive. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CrwbY7IgPZU.html I highly recommend that you get yourself a 25 foot, 12 gauge extension cord so that you don't burn out the motor due to low voltage.
Nice to see someone who actually knows how to use a chainsaw. On the other hand I was wondering how it is still working ? I seen anther review of electric chainsaws and the Oregon quit working on the 2nd use .
Look at one of the newer battery powered chain saws. They can pull a lot more current from the battery than you can get down that cable from your house circuit. For the ultimate electric chain saw look at the DeWalt 60v chain saw system :)
Frankly, that's a lousy idea, or actually it's a marketing gimmick... Grind off the teeth to "sharpen" the chain, and before you know it; you'll be having to _buy_ another chain. I guess the Oregan company doesn't make enough money, gotta come up with ways to con people.
