He bought the valve cover already sandblasted, so instead of saying he should've done something else or whatever, here's the context. He didn't sandblast it himself, so he did the logical thing and cleaned the aftermath.
He used the context "we" to signify us and together. He was talking in the "we" context to include his viewers with himself. He never once stated he did buy the cover or did it himself or maybe some else in the shop messed up that day. he's just stating that if you were to blast a cover to make sure you take it off to prevent future damage its an educational video not a conspiracy theory. Its a teaching moment, he's not trying to lie to you.
@@jasonpark1556he just showed you how it gets into places that it shouldnt go. If you have to drill holes and take things off, thats hardly just “clean it after”
@@jasonpark1556 yes it does because you will never get it all out, and good machinist will tell you that. That is the reason for steam tanks and baths.
I destroyed a SR20 like this when I was in my 20s. Had it sandblasted, painted it all nice, thru it in and blew the motor in 15 minutes on the freeway.
Some valve covers have the baffles bolted or screwed on. I sand blast tons of miata valve covers because the baffles covers are only held on with screws. I put the screws and covers in a white vinegar bath while I sand blast, wash, and paint. Take the screws and covers out of the vinegar and rinse them well. Assemble the valve cover.
As an engine machinist who media blasts internals regularly, I can't overstate how critical correct and thorough cleaning is. Followed by light oiling, rust dust as we call it will form within hours. Compressed air is not enough fellow gearheads, that stuff truly goes everywhere you don't want it.
Soda Blasting! You should always use baking soda for abrasive blasting on engine parts. Its water soluble, you simply rinse or wash the parts to remove all of the abrasive. Harbor freight sells 40lb bags of baking soda..
This is why you use a soda blaster, baking soda dissolves in water, so a quick rinse after you're done we'll get rid of all the contaminants, then use compressed air to dry.
Walnut shells might still scratch the bearings, and could definitely clog up oil passages. Old school radiator sealer is made of walnut shells. They swell up when wet and clog up the leaks.
We rebuilt an airplane engine in A&P school. Lots of parts were glass beaded. No amount of cleaning got everything out. When we pulled the screens first run up, there was a good amount of glass beads.
Great point. You can also chemically clean valve cover with spray oven cleaner. It is serious acid so please use PPE and neutralize cleaner with warm water when it is done. Pat dry and put under sunshine to sizzle any remaining water.
I sand blasted a valve cover on a 1995 Plymouth Neon ACR with the baffles still on but i used brake cleaner and compressed air to remove most of the sand. That was over a year ago and no problems yet, i guess only time will tell.
You are supposed to use baking soda, not sand. Baking soda will wash out by dissolving in water. Soda blast, water wash, dry with air or heat, then spray with oil. Simple and safe.
So if you want to strip parts clean. Sand blasting is for large parts like frames and body and engine block. Little stuff like a valve cover can be treated in menthol hydrate. It’s cheap and peels paint and cooked oil off in about 2 hours. But you could also leave in overnight. And you can reuse the solution many times before it evaporates or becomes completely contaminated and fails.
Worst case scenario for the sand is that it wears out your oil pump. It might do some damage to a lifter if it gets on the cam but everywhere else the oil goes through the oil pump and then through the filter. No crank, main or cam bearings should be affected. In fact the oil pump probably wouldn't even pick up the sand from the bottom of the pan.
Yes, but the sand has to get to the filter first and the filter is after the pump plus I wouldn't doubt it might get stuck in some oil passages in the bearings or something. I'd prefer not having a cup of sand run through my engine.
@@matthewmorgan582 perhaps you should reread my message. Two points I made you totally missed. 1. I did say the sand would have to go through the pump. Which would cause wear but not a lot. 2. How is the oil going to plug small passages in the engine if it gets filtered out by the filter? It's not and if it could the rest of the bearings and the crank would be completely shot.
@@consaka1 Yes, but you're not dumping it through the filter you're dumping it into the head. Why are you defending putting sand in the engine? It's in the head and depending on the oil passages it could end up anywhere. Doesn't just magically float through to the oil filter.
@@timessiah94 You are kind of ignorant. There are a number of reasons people might choose to sandblast parts on the inside of engines. For example, I do it as prep for special coatings. I have also heard of using fine aggregate to smooth out and remove resistances in internal oil or water passages. It's not a huge deal unless you fail to clean up properly afterwards. Coming in to a conversation like this and making a statement like you did just shows how little you actually know.
@@brycelund4112 Yes, there is a screen on the pick up tube, then goes to the oil pump, through a filter, then to the oil galley, to all the other parts that need lube. Filters on most American SUVs and trucks (what I work on most) are rated about 20 micron.
@@brycelund4112 Haha, Maybe. I'm a grease monkey, not an engine builder or ascetic modder so I'm unfamiliar with sandblasting ECT. How big are particles used in blasting, would they effect the oil pump, would they just pass through the oil filter like small soot particles in diesel oil and make the oil gritty? Guess those would be better questions.
@@ralph02136 common sense...hahaha! Im stating the use of the wrong selection of word. Downside is negative. There is nothing negative about sandblasting. Thats why I said that he should have made it a warning so that you need to clean it after. No common sense is needed here my friend.
Ive always taped off every part of the valve cover i didn't want sand in with multiple layers of tape its a bit overkill but it keeps the sand out of it and then its already taped off for when your ready to paint it
Another thing, avoid sandblasting magnesium valve covers. I did mine not knowing it was magnesium and well, the casting was ROUGH. Lots of pitting and casting flash was hidden by the factory coating and it looked horrible. I spent quite some time fulling pits with JB Weld and grinding down casting flash. Even after I was done it still didn't look quite as good as the factory coating did when new, even using wrinkle paint.
Sandblasting anything that sees the inside of the engine is a huge no no. Even if you think you have gotten rid of all of it, the force of the blasting can drive sand into the surface/pores of materials only to be shaken loose once the engine is running. If you want to blast engine internal parts, use an organic material like crushed walnut. I've heard more than one story of sand blasted internals destroying otherwise good engines, don't become a statistic.
Who the fuck would even bother sand blasting it to begin with? I painted my K24 valve cover, only prep I did was washing it off with soap and water, paint adhered perfectly.
If you drill the posts for the baffle to remove it, how do you effectively weld it on without causing other issues? If I'm over thinking this, let me know
Even if you mask it there’s a chance you get sand inside the cover. I’ve done this myself and every time I always drill out the rivets for the windage tray and redo it after cleaning
I am a RU-vid Master mechanic. He did not take the canooter clip off the bunghole and then sandblast the rivet holes on Tuesday when the mouse was under the van
Clog em? Big brain shit there, You mean abrade your oil pump gears, collect in filter, and if filter has a bypass imbed in bearings and abrade journals.
I’ve never heard of bearings being clogged.. If you’ve got abrasive in your oil, it’ll scour the bearings and cylinder walls. Clogged bearings makes no sense