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I use superglue with accelerator like you did in this video. To get perfect alignment, use an old baseboard outside-edge trick. Line up the edges (without the glue) and then wrap a piece of masking tape around the outside of the corner. It will act as a hinge and allow you to open and close the two pieces in perfect alignment. Pivot the pieces open, apply the glue to one side and the hardner to the other, and then pivot the pieces closed. No guess-work and perfect alignment. :-)
I’m a retired woodworker and we used a similar method when work was being shipped across country, we would use print dimensions and using biscuits pre build trim like these (usually custom profiles in interesting species) , staple a cross brace on bottom, and in the truck they go. We never had any problems, and builders liked it because easy instal, we liked it because we controlled the quality of mitre as well as wood grain matching perfectly
Was his name Robert my brother law must have done your job , sounds like it, he usually gets some old fashioned polyfiller and apples it with his thumb and fingers what a nightmare you should have seen my fingers after sanding it down by hand the tips of my fingers were red raw and bleeding I couldn't eat my fish n chips by hand, ha ha 😂 I'm actually serious and he's a carpenter that's the funny thing.
Did every door/window casing in my recent remodel using this method and they all came out so nice it made me sad when we hung some of the window treatments and hid some of my miter work. Most of my friends aren’t DIY people and I take a lot pride in checking out the “professional” results they got from contractors and realizing mine came out much nicer. Too many “just slap it up fast and caulk it” cowboys out there pretending to be craftsmen.
In the UK, we use a sliding square set to your architrave/trim offset (usually 8-10mm) all the way around the frame, then cut the header to the lines on the inside mitre angles, fix the header, then cut the legs with mitres a little long, turn them upside down and offer them up one at a time, whether hard floor or carpet, the point of the mitre will show you the exact height. You mark the top of the header on the bottom of the leg, cut it off at 90° and voila, it's exactly right, I tend to use grab adhesive on the back now as just pins and caulk isn't enough in my opinion, I then spray both faces of the mitres with activator, put the super glue on the leg mitre face, slide it up carefully till it bonds in the right position, pin from the bottom up, works perfectly.
That’s why you should be thankful you don’t speak German. If Americans wanted tips from a Brit we would ask how to fix fucked up teeth or how to colonize, rape, and pillage entire continents of people and then disappear into obscurity when the colonialists decide to say fuck your taxation without representation. For more just the tip from an American just ask for the prom night special next time, and don’t start a sentence with “in the UK….” Unless you are talking about Led Zeppelin or Ozzy fucking Osborne we don’t give a fuck….. just kidding cheerio governor😂🤙🏼🔥🍆
2P10 is amazing stuff... and strong. Even glued handle back on a belt sander (still on a few years later with everyday use) and other uses. Just have to watch where you place those fingers when lining pieces up or they may be stuck to the pieces. We use it for various mouldings including crown and light valances in kitchens etc. Even fix kids toys with it.
This is a great method for MDF casings especially. For natural wood, hog ring clamps and wood glue is incredibly strong and less prone to breaking while maneuvering assemblies to the nailing location. Nice Job.
@@LarryB-inFL I liked the 2P 10 method but cringed waiting for a corner to snap when nailing casings on. The hog ring and Titebond method allowed me to assemble casings one after another, lean them against the wall to set for a while, distribute and install while leaving the clamps on. I would remove the clamps after the glue was cured. I have never used the PUR glue or Clam Clamps but that combination seems like the ultimate system to me.
So very helpful dude! Your instructional videos speak my language. You have a perfectionist mentality, just as I do. (I know it's painful sometimes) perfection is essential for a finish carpenter. But, I love your techniques in all your videos.
I love your calm and modest manner, Funny Carpenter. I've just subscribed 😊 Could I make a little request, however? For a certain portion of your viewers, it is very difficult indeed to hear the dialogue above the music. If the music is necessary, could you please tweet it down a bit so that we can hear your very pleasant voice? Many thanks and God bless 🙏🏻
Another trick is to glue, join the pieces and spray on top. The spray will infiltrate an set the glue. It will take 5-10 seconds instead of 2. But if your hands are shaky...it's worth the wait. The spray won't really leave marks and you're going to paint it anyways.
I've never heard of DryDex. Is it like wood filler? I do like the ease of wood filler, but overtime, I tihnk caulk is more elastic and will not crack. What do you think of how the DryDex holds up over time compared to caulk?
Question: Wouldn't it be better to have a Square as a alignment tool to make sure the pieces are square while glueing together? I mean you only have a couple of seconds till the glue sets, right?
Thanks for this great Miter tip! I'm about to install 3.5" baseboard in my bedrooms. I'm wondering if the same technique will apply to corner miters for baseboards? Might be tricky since the length of the boards are 3x the length of a typical door opening.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter For sure. My luck I'd cut the miters at like 44 degrees and then by the time the vertical casing got to the bottom of the door I'd be way off. Or if the door jam isn't square.
in production we would nail the casing to 1 side of the door and use that to hang the door in the opening, only shooting nails thru the casing to secure the hollow core pre hung door into the opening, lol......no its not the best way but was incredibly fast......also done high end homes in Laguna beach where we had doormaker on site and we made the moulding with a shaper on site......heavy ass interior mahogany doors.......2 completely different worlds
Ok great idea but it doesn’t seem to work unless the casing is completely plumb and level and 90 sq corners. What do I do when there not and the angles are over or under 90 degrees?
Note that superglue is basically just cyanoacrylate. That thing was originally designed to glue skin so make sure you don't get any on your skin and definitely not into your eyes. Even using safety glasses might be sensible.
Interesting point, I’ve found the 2p10 pretty sweet for this purpose. I’m sometimes amazed at how you can wrangle the hole set up through doorways and not break them.
It must be nice to have everything white. I have a 1960 house and all the casings and moldings are wood stained. Anytime I think of doing an upgrade on something involves having to match the wood stain and finish. Everything would look hodge-podge unless I did the entire house and I don't see that happening.
i like the ,assembly first idea , but while you have the C.A. glue out ,insted of using joint filler , put some C.A. glue on there and dust some baking soda over it, it dries instantly , and is much more durable and sticks better than fillers , so when you go to paint , you're not pulling your filler off with the brush or roller , i was shown that years ago at the ibanez guitar distributor , but it's just becoming popular lately, but ya man , we used it for everything , it was our duck tape
Three comments: First, you could have made clear that what you have there is a standard CA glue and an activator. Starbond makes lots of versions for woodworkers. But even dollar store gel superglue works fine. Second, the risk of dripping onto the surface below is big, so you need to pay attention to what you are gluing it on top of, lest your work stick to it!. Third, your technique at 1:57 had you spraying the activator towards the glued surface, and even a little bit of overspray that reached that glue would have turned the whole thing hard in moments.
He is using CA glue and that stuff is used in woodworking all the time; it is not as strong as wood glue but it is pretty strong. It is more brittle than wood glue, so it does not handle torque on a joint well.
Good video & tips! Like others - please cut the music. I rather hear you. Some mentioned out of square door frames. Can't I just nail the top, a foot or so down each side and then adjust the trim a little to the rest of the frame? Thanks again.
My brother and I work together. He hates when I pull out that glue to do my miters lol. He doesnt see the obvious value in this step like others in the comments. My opinion is 1. Its worth it as its one of the best ways to have a profressional perfect product. 2. If its not worth it for the pay on the job, then you priced the job incorrectly.....mike drop lol. Customer doesnt like the price for my perfect work, then they want someone else.
You should not use the activator in situations like this. The glue dries in about three minutes and the chances of you gluing it up un square greatly outweighs the three minutes you have to wait.seriously, a couple minutes….
I'm a retired joiner of 45 yrs....I can't imagine taking all this extra unnecessary time to fix architrave to houses on site....I wouldn't make any bonus pay!....just cut it right first time and fix it direct to the door casing!...simple..👍🏻
I agree it is quicker to nail the head on then the legs adding a bit of PVA but this gives a better finish. Whatever method you use you certainly only need to mark and cut once, non of this rechecking nonsense.
I cant imagine taking this long on caseing a white finger jointed pine caseing that is getting filler and painted. Not hating. Miters look great. But dang that a lot of fiddling around. For fjp.
Your narration is hard to understand sometimes,like when you are looking down, and the annoying music. You don’t need the music. If you are doing a bunch of work without narration, yeah, then the music is fine.