Ah, a this summer video and I am following this close because at 70 years of age, I can learn a lot from you even tho I pulled wrenches for over forty years myself (owned a garage) but have a grandson who loves fords as well an he thinks I am a god when it comes to ford related problems. Good video and keep going!!
You CANNOT use the stock roller lifters in a non-roller block. The lifter bores in a roller block are taller in the roller block, and the lifters can come up enough to rotate so that the wheel is sideways and it will waste your cam. There are some retrofit kits out there and there are some retrofit lifters, but they may be expensive. DO YOUR RESEARCH!!! It's very doable, but you have to use the correct parts. The cheapest way to go might be to find a fox body 302 and use that block. Thunderhead289 goes into a lot of detail about it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fukZI8CIG6g.html
Youre better off using the roller block, or finding a flat tappet cam for the current motor for the time being, using that roller cam would not work with the 70's block due to the lifter bores being different, they make conversion kits but they're expensive and it makes more sense to use a different block, but you can use the gt40 heads on the current motor
I run those heads on my 73 F-100 but with a flat tappet performer cam and intake. Had the heads rebuilt and added matching springs. Massive improvement over the stock heads it had. They bolt right in but make sure you get the proper length pushrods and you might have to shim the rocker arms for a perfect fit (I had to). With a 4-barrel Holley 600 I barely need to touch the gas to maintain city speeds (rear has 3.25's). Lots of usable torque and power.
you need a roller 302 block to use this cam and lifter setup. Also the roller 302 are weak blocks to begin with if you have the possibility go for a 351W block like a F4TE. go with an E303 F and X Cam, Letter cams will kill your low end torque on the 302. also if your in the heads get them ported. the heads are the major bottleneck on a SBF. a set of good aluminum heads with matched roller cam, lifters and Roller rockers is an easy 100HP bolt on.
I admire the direction your taking this build but the plan has a few flaws. Coulda got a running long block roller motor from an exploder for 250 from pick and pull. Once you realize the roller cam wont work in non roller block that 250 will sound like a bargain. Gt40p heads have about 10cc larger combustion chamber than early 302 heads so you will be losing about a point on your compression. Odd plug angle on gt40p will limit header selection. You mentioned new springs and youre going to need them. The gt40p head is limited to about .44 lift. Dont recall what lift is on a 303 cam off top of my head. You may want to verify lift before installing....oh wait, cant install that cam in your old block. Well if you end up getting a roller block remember to check cam specs for lift. Defiantly interested how this is all going to play out. Thanks for sharing.
Really enjoy your videos. nice to see younger guys interested in building cars nowadays. Been using gt40p heads for years .great bang for the buck low budget builds .best stock Ironhead you can buy you definitely have to change the valve springs though.
I understand that you want the roller setup but lifters and a cam make a pattern in each other nearly immediately so your cam and lifters will have different patterns on them
Thats only on the flat tappet cams. Roller cams you can change up the lifters. Although the stock lifters he got from the junk yard won't work with his 70's block. He must buy after market roller lifters with link bars.
Check out Alex's Parts for springs, that's where I got mine. You could also use the Trick flow kit that they make specifically for P heads. The different lock position on the factory valves makes changing springs an issue.
The blown radiator tells you that the head gasket was blown before you even took the heads were off. Those heads will need to be surfaced because if it was ran long enough that hot for the radiator to blow the heads might be warped.
It's worth saying that, while you may well not find GT40X heads in a junk yard in the US you CAN find them on vehicles from other markets that used that series of engine such as Australia. It's not a lot of use to you Americans knowing this as finding someone you trust in Oz to find a pair of X-heads and then having them shipped to you might well cost more than you could buy a new pair of X-heads for in the US as I believe they are still being made as aftermarket parts by various companies. It is worth keeping your eyes open though, as my information suggests that the X-heads may well have been used on some vehicles that you may not expect, particularly those that may have seen service in law enforcement and with emergency services...
Hey the cam was free i would run it too, but i think the rpm range is 3500 to 6500 you are going be twisting that little 302 pretty tight in that heavy truck to see/feel any power gains, will talk real dirty at idle though good luck
This is the same cam I have put in every mustang I have owned. Not the best cam for a truck though. I would have put a E cam in it. Something with a tight lobe separation that would be a lot better than for a truck and torque. Some don't like the alphabet cams but for the price you can't beat them and they are everywhere for cheap.
there was coolant in the cylinders because you just pulled the head and broke the seal of the gasket you very very rarely ever get it drained enough to where it doesnt run in there when you lift the head off i cant beleave dude thought that had just been laying in there
I have GT40P heads in my 77 F100 and I'm using cheap summit brand full length headers without any issue. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PwXnqHmbLxY.html
just picked up a 1975 F250 Custom with the 390 automatic trans. 14X,XXX on body and 10k on rebuilt motor. awesome truck! watching your videos over time really made me want a classic. Hope my find goes well as much as yours have.
