The FASTEST 3D Printer I’ve Ever Used (Ankermake M5 Review) 

You guys are totally right! The actual printing speed of the M5 will definitely be further limited by acceleration. As I mentioned, the 5X speed advertised is mostly a marketing gimmick but acceleration is another important limiting factor to consider. A misstep on my part!

why did u stop making videos?

Please come back, your videos are amazing!

The fact that I can make things out of thin air whenever I need them is a dream from my childhood come true. How fast it happens just isn't a factor.

You should look into a bamboo labs printer. The p1p is around the same price and offers 10x the printing speeds at good quality. And the x1 has the ai features that work for the most part.

Hey Matt, we miss ya. Your videos are so clear, helpful and interesting. Hope your doin well

Glad to see a new video of you again. I don’t know you that long but man this quality and effort you put into your videos is insane

Anger is easily one of the best tech companies imo. They make amazing VR stuff as well as amazing 3d print and other stuff

Where have you been? No new FPV videos in a long time.

Hi, great video, I just wanted to clarify one thing. When you talk about speed you have to take into consideration acceleration too. Even if you set a speed of 250mm/s if you printer is limited by low accelerations, it will never reach that speed. Another thing to keep in mind, especially for vase mode, is layer time. Usually the slicer makes the printer move slow enough to give time to the layer to cool down before printing the next one. This could influence the real printing speed. In general it is a great machine, considering his cartesian kinematics

This was a really great/well-done video. I'm just getting into 3D printing myself and this video really helped as well as answered a lot of my initial questions.

Always love seeing a new video from you! Great work

If you want to print large items, it’s also worth looking into setting up a little print farm (3 or 4 of the same printer) as opposed to investing in a single (expensive) printer that claims to do it all lightning fast. Different advantages to both for sure, but worth considering.

I’m so glad your back I love your fpv vids

Fantastic video man! First time seeing any of your content and wow! really nicely done! Also fully agree with everything you said here about the M5 - rocksolid printer but man oh man does that AI detection stink.

Dude your videos are so insanly high quality, keep up the work man! It's always a pleasure to watch. Stay consistant and your audience will 100% catch up to your quality

I miss this absolute Legend

Come back bro 😢

Have in mind that acceleration and minimum layer time are just as important as mm/s. TPU can print fast. I have a video showing of 300mm/s I believe but have bin printing at 400mm/s. The flow are the limiting factor.

I may add the Ankermate to a fleet of printers at some point, but I gotta say, I love the versatility of the Ender series (or any printer based on generic aluminum extrusions in general). There is just more customizability in those printers with a HUGE following an support. I'd be interested in the future upgradability for Anker printers.

The z offset requirement on your ender 3 is because the probe is separate from the nozzle. On the anchor make it uses the nozzle itself for probing so it knows exactly what The z offset is already.

I just want to say thank you because I used a small part of your video in a video of my clients

Hello "Matt Pochwat"! Thank you for showing us such a wonderful video! I feel so happy! I'm looking forward to your next work! Have a nice day!

Havn't finished watching it but came here to say you should try the BambuLabs X1 Carbon or even P1P. I think the P1P is more in this price range (actually cheaper) and better.

Hey Matt as a fellow Canadian I just wanted to let you know Bott Grinder just mentioned you as one of the most honest FPV you tubers and hoped everything was ok with you as do I.. you are who I watch the most getting into FPV . Where did you go?

The content of this video is great, but the editi is SO far beyond amazing and seriously helps convey your points.

Best parts of the video are the warning at the end, well put, and the editing master judo move at 14:25.

My first working* printer, the DreamMaker Overlord Pro(Deltaprinter), from 2016 printed at 100mm/s according to the official specs, but you could push it higher if you didn't care for finish.(150mm/s was possible) Oh, and it did sensorless bedlevelling... And since it was a Delta printer with Bowden type extruder, it could accellerate like nothing else. I'm currently rebuilding it... slowly, very slowly, and hoping for higher speeds. *The Mendel Prusa I built a few years before out of printed parts and threaded rods... never really worked properly.

glad ur back!

you should try a Bambu Labs X1C with AMS...its an amazing piece of machine!

For that price, you just buy a P1P or some coreXY printer, this design isn't ment to print fast but to be cheap to produce.

5:50 The stepper motor on the Y axis is the same as the ender 5 pro I have. You can put a dual y axis belt mod on any ender 3. Linear rails instead of pom wheels are a much better way to spend your money.

This video comes across something like an ad. The bed slinging kinematic system, especially with a large heavy bed like this, is the hardest to make fast, and certainly not 5x faster out of the box. Having a "print speed" of 150 instead of 30 is not "5x faster" because the limiting factor is acceleration, and most of the time that giant bed will be moving less than 50 mm/s with typical acceleration settings suitable for it.

Thx for such a great review. I was considering this printer as my 2nd (1st Creality CR 6-SE), but I've also been wanting to go Core XY. There are just so many choices. Did you by chance test Octoprint with this printer? If so, does it work? The camera work with it?

Matt, I work in IT asset management, and we were impacted by the chip shortage, where sub contractors kept moving ship dates due to COVID. This makes sense that Anker had these issues around the same time. Totally not their fault. You can't get blood from a stone.

The default settings on a Bambu X1C only top out at 300 mm/s for PLA and I can assure you the actual speed is MUCH faster than what you show here. Recently tried upping the Bambu's acceleration to 20,000 mm/s^2 from the default 10,000 mm/s^2. Acceleration is the real key to speed, and a bed slinger will NEVER even come close to a CoreXY or Delta, just look at the mass it has to move on the Y? or is it X? axis and the motor it has to move it with - and this changes as you add more mass to the printbed. I'm not aware of any slicer settings that let you slow down acceleration as more mass is laid on the bed, but my CR10 could easily carry several kilograms of plastic on a 300x300x400mm print. Acceleration at 20,000 mm/s^2 makes a Bambu sound roughly like an A10 Warthog chewing through a column of tanks, except MUCH MORE TERRIFYING SOUNDING. Not kidding at all. Sounded like missed steps at that speed, but I tried this on WildRoseBuilds' test cube and the result was perfect, so no, it wasn't missing steps. I just don't want to be in the room when it is printing at that speed. Running some numbers, at 20k acceleration, to slow from 300mm/s and reverse back up to 300mm/s, takes 30 milliseconds. In the time it takes to stop from full speed (300mm/s), the printhead covers 2.25mm. I looked up the CR-10S Pro profile in Simplify3D & it's saying 500mm/s^2 in XY and 100 in Z. 1/40th of the Bambu acceleration! 0 to 300mm/s takes 0.6 seconds on the CR-10, if it could even do it. It takes 90mm to ramp up and 90mm to ramp back down, which for a 300x300 bed, gives you 180mm averaging half-speed (best case) and 120mm at top speed. Given most parts and infill patterns are a lot shorter strokes than this, you can see the print speed is not getting up to the rates they are talking about.

Would this be a good 1st printer? I'm impressed by how it's built.

We have 2 M5's and a full-blown Ultimate s5. I would rather use the M5! Ankermaker did a wonderful job at design, materials, and manufacturing. Their slicer to print over wifi works great. I hope they make a bigger enclosed model for ABS and other high temp plastics.

Missing the videos! Just got my first drone with the DJI goggles loving it!

do you use tolerance when printing? I am new to printing, but I have been learning about things like interference and clearance fits and the classes they have. If you look up these charts, you can try and make parts to work with the real world with as little mistakes as possible. These charts however are mainly for holes and shafts and you have to keep in mind the values you see for the tolerance are for thousanths of an inch. Even if the printer were to print something that has exactly the nominal dimentions you instruct, having the same interior diameter of a holder with the same exterior diamter of the thing that is being held will create a very snug press fit and that isnt even taking into account the horrizontal expansion of 3d printing. I think it is enough to be of concern when fitting objects together. If you try these maybe the mistakes will be lessened

I didn’t know ankermake send their 3d printer premiere out to test for free by average persons (your own words.) I do appreciate your uploaded information, so thanks for sharing!

7 month .. Where are you now ?

great review! Thank you for breaking it down for us 👍

I do want to mention that the Bambu labs p1p does accelerate up to 2000mm/s ^2 and uses the vibrations to make it faster.

Hey! Just wanted to give a quick warning. When you touch the build plate (as you did a few times in this video) it can screw with the bed adhesion for a print unless you clean it.

The "leaver" on top of the extruder can actually be used to change filaments. Just push it down and you can feed or pull out the filament

7:15 Side by side comparison with two completely different models... Nice!

An honest review. I like that.

Bro, where'd you go???

Yes, I am still at a beginning stage. I would like to know if the printer is quite, it sounded like it in the video and if you had tried the firmware update. I replaced the main board in my Ender 3 , firmware definitely had its issues.

Planning to buy a printer and wonder the vases you made which filament did you use and as if it’s good for the plants and dirt along with water. Did you put a hole at the bottom. At first this will be my main reason to buy.

Have you never used the Bambu Labs X1? Out of the box prints more than twice as fast- SUPER easy to use! I've had one print fail due to using Carbon PLA and bad layer adhesion for complicated support structure. Would really recommend it

As a first buyer for 3D Printers I was wondering if you could tell me which would be better quality and faster between the Creality 3 S1 or the Creality 3 S1 pro

Tbh all i need is something to print a tiny camera mount and arm guards for my quad. What's the minimum I can get?

This is the printer I have! This was my first printer and I love it!

nice review. u got me into making stuff on youtube. your the best thanks

Lol I printed that boat benchy on my X1C in under 13 minutes and the quality at that speed is nuts how well it come out

Me, rocking my solidoodle 4 that's like 10 years old. I slightly modified it. Very accurate.

Good Info reasonably priced machine. Nice Job.

The Ankermake can do 500 mm/s2, while a Creality K1 series can do up to 600 mm/s2, while also having the AI Camera on the K1C and Max, and being an Optional add on on the base K1, and being enclosed and with other features.

I'm at the market right now for 3D printers, BTW I'm new to all of this which would you recommend Ender-3 S1 Plus vs Ankermake M5? I know there is a huge price difference between the two of them or maybe I should also consider the Prusa i3 MK3S+? Im planning to use also for my shop not only for a hobby.

You CAN when printing your 3D model from the Ankermake Slicer to not generate an AI image, so the AI detection wont be applied

What happends to elegoo neptune 4 with 500m/s?. I have one and its prints amazing even on 500m/s.

The autobed leveling doing 49 points is stock in marlin firmware. Pretty easy to change the number of points though

Quick question. I'm new to 3D printing. But something you said in this video got me thinking. You mentioned how it is possible to have defects in your print, or even an outright failure. I'm not sure if these are always from a bad design or something literally just going wrong in the print execution process. But in case of bad design I don't see why someone couldn't develop a print simulator. Something that goes through the motions of printing the design electronically only (not physically). In that way it would only take a few seconds to complete because it is only limited by the speed of the processor and memory.

i upgraded my cr10s pro v2s, increased weight with bitumen plates, added z-sync / rods, volcano hotend, cooling, linear rails, 0.9 steppers, klipper. it's a monster now, can literally do 3500 accel Y (x could do 12k) without any ghosting (suggested by resonsance test), 7000 accel with minor ghosting. print speeds ~150mm default for good looking parts, up to 300 if quality doesnt matter. even stock 90mm/s was perfect with this one. biggest upgrade was getting rid of creality motors, when you turn them they are grindy compared to the act motors i use.

It's 800$ if anyone is wondering. (maybe I missed it in the video, but I think it's interesting to know.) Great Video!

my skirt and first layer are at 60mms then the rest of the print is 120mms. i use .4 and .6mm nozzles depending on how big the print is. I use the same settings on 2 printers. i have a longer lk4 pro (ender 3) and a longer lk5 pro (cr10). the lk5 pro will print way faster than the lk4 pro because it has the extra supports that significantly stiffen up the z "tower". and i have all upgraded steppers and dual z steppers. But i leave the settings the same so the files are interchangeable. Even with the bigger bed of the lk5 i can use lk4 files itll just be off center when it prints. i have a ton of upgrades but even stock both of my printers were great. there is absolutely no need to buy expensive printers when there are amazing cheap(ish) printers that exist.

3:36 you can adjust how many bed probing points your printer does in the configuration file

I literally today went into ur profile to see how u're doing and now it turns out you've uploaded a video

For the AI detection, add a poster-board behind the printer as a 'Quiet Background' to give it a better chance of accurate detection You may need to play with colors, rinse and repeat.

Like always great footage 👍👍

After nine months, what do you think, please? I would like to buy one.

It was hard to find a replacement build plate for your Ender3? Have you never used the site called Amazon? Are you possibly a Bing user?

It would be nice if the slicer could detect difficult spots and automatically print those portions of the print slower so you get the advantages of the increased speed whilst not compromising on quality and less risk of failed prints. Unless thats already a thing and I've just never noticed it lol

05:57 That shot!! Either this is some wizardry or you got yourself one of those MKBHD $250K robot arms 😅

Managed to get my Ender 3 v3 to go slightly above this printers, max printing speed completely stock somehow. and the print quality has not been affected.

4:43 literally every printer has the extrude and retract feature. With Klipper it’s just a simple with their web based UI and you can do it from your cell phone from across your house.

Can you make a review of the Radiomaster Boxer

He forgot bambulab existed

While it's a nice looking printer, it definitely feels like a big swing and a miss. You can get an Ender 3 S1 pro for $500 cad cheaper. With that savings you can buy a Wyze cam to check on your prints and still have $450 left over to buy filament. It just seems to me like Anker spent too much on getting this up and running and are trying to recoup their money by overcharging their customers. Either way great video Matt, happy to see you're making content again.

Hello I want to get into fpv and I have never flown a drone, I have a 400$ budget and I would like to buy a controller, goggles, and a drone but I don't know where to start or what to get. What drone, goggles and controller should I get, or should I get a specific rtf kit you recommend? I also want decent equipment that I can use for probably a year or two before I would like to upgrade. Also I am looking for a digital option in my budget, if that's not possible then I understand, because fpv can be a pretty pricey hobby but I just want some recommendations on where to start, thank you

When showing a speed comparison try to show the same geometry being printed, it gives a far better indication of speed and acceleration differences.

Is that camera usable locally? I don't want/need my 3d printer sending videos of my house to a random server that can later be hacked. For that matter, Anker recently had an issue with their web cameras not being encrypted, but claiming them to be encrypted. (I'm assuming Anker and AnkerMake are the same company.)

So can you use normal PLA? Or do you need PLA+?? Also random request. Would you be able to tell me the measurements of the base of the printer. Not the bed, but the actual base/frame of the printer? I’m thinking of getting it but I don’t want it to be too big and not fit on my computer desk! Please and thank you!!!

My basically stock ender 3 pro prints at 120mm/s rarely any issues (60mm/s first layer)

Hello im wondering if you can use the beta 2se fpv controller for the emax tiny hawk 2 freestyle

When thinking about quality, the more points it has the better the calculations of the beds stability.

Please do review on the british drone industries adapter to convert dji goggles v2 into analog, i would like to see what you think of them.

3:18 build plates are super easy to find online in a wide variety materials I don’t know why he said it was super difficult to find a replacement but that is just not the case.

There are a lot of new products on the printer market and I think we should try some new ones like Bambu lab or FLSUN v400, they look good and wild.

I just got my third printer. First was a BIQU B1, second Ender 3 Max, and now Ender 3 V3 SE. The V3 has all these features at a fraction of the cost. It prints fast enough it made me wonder if the filament had time to stick. My print speed is 180 consistently. I’m thoroughly impressed with the Ender 3 V3 SE.

Hey Matt, I have a little problem with my Ankrrmake M5. The extruder or nozzle hits my 3D print after a certain time or after a certain layer height. This causes my 3D print to have unclean layers and sometimes the print breaks in some (narrow) places. Any idea what I can do?

I find it funny how people are astounded by some new printers' speeds, while my 11 year old *wooden* little Ultimaker 1.0 blasts higher speeds than many at absolutely insane quality that left many of my Prusa MK3+ owning friends lost for words - down to 0.04mm layers in minute details :)

You can turn of the AI feature in the slicer under Settings/General. If you do that you won't be bothered with the notifications and a bigger plus for me is that the printer doesn't pause to initialize the first layer. I got my M5 in december and I'm loving it so far. I really like that Ankermake is listening to the users, they pushed out several firmware updates that solved a lot of minor issues and I don't really care about the AI-function anyway to be honest. Hopefully they start shipping the V6 color engine soon, I'm way more interested in that.

Where is can find that flower pot you showed at 0:19 ?

u know i have an ender 3 s1 and it can print as fast as the ankermake right

FYI y'all for this price point you can get a Core XY Printer aka like the Bambu Lab P1S.

you're alive!

This looks like a huge step forward in speed and performance, even though the AI is unfinished. But, at 4 TIMES the price I paid for my Ender 3 ($200 shipped), at $800, this is not affordable for most people. RU-vid channel CHEP, has made different printing profiles that significantly speed up the time it takes to print with an Ender 3! Quality is still good too. These profiles may make an 8 hour print take 4.5 hours, so significantly less time and still reasonable quality. Several options too. Highly suggested!!!! 😎🤘 What a great review, Matt! Nicely done and so detailed! 👍