I'm so glad I found your channel bro, my 22 Mach 1 gets in mid January and you're lookin like my go to for a chunk of questions I'll run into, very much appreciated keep posting man!
Love the new Mach One! I do miss the Cobra though- that was how I found your channel. Just wanted to say thanks for all the Cobra content and for answering questions as I have finally gotten my old 97 Cobra back and your videos have been extremely helpful in getting things sorted out on the car. Cheers!
They are great cars. Really at home on the track. Ive been dailying mine less and really enjoyed the track days. Im now wondering if I should have gotten a handling pack car lol.
@@truckandroll989 Watching your track day review now and really enjoying the progression of this car so far. I like the idea to do oil catch cans early and prolong the life of the car right away. I ordered mine to the gills and plan on both track and daily use. I'll let you know how the performance pack does when it comes in and the break in is complete (hopefully early next year)!
@@jebwatson we have been getting a lot of snow which has halted me from driving it as much. Im hoping to install some hood struts shortly to get rid of that silly prop rod. Other than that I will say these stock tires dont like hooking up in the cold weather. That was my biggest reluctance to getting the handling pack since you basically then need to set aside a fund for daily tires. However i bet on track it makes a huge difference.
Sick video, I’m getting my black Mach 1 next week. Waited all year for it to come in, gonna trade my 2018 raptor for it. Very detailed video you have a new subscriber!!
Great vid keep the content coming, quick question, do you need to install both (left and right) I've seen a lot of people only install the passenger side one only
If only doing 1 id say passenger side. That connects behind the TB in the intake so it will likely have a stronger vacuum signal and thus collect more fluid
The Gen 3 Coyote uses direct AND port injection which completely eliminates any carbon deposits on the intake valves. I guess a catch can would help reduce the oil film in the intake and throttle body... that's about it. Honestly if you change your oil enough, not a big deal. Might save possible fouled spark plugs but those should be changed out FAR BEFORE reccomend anyways.... Ford Performance also makes a catch can that is warranty friendly. Anything aftermarket can cause issues with warranty claims. But hey your car, your mods, to each their own. Sweet ride! 🍻
I dont think you should go so far as to say it completely eliminates anything. You ever opened up an old port injection car’s intake. You will see deposits on everything. Throttle body, intake surfaces, tops of the valve train, etc. Similarly, look at the older DI Audi’s which were notorious for buildups and deposits. I dont think you can say the combination cures the issues that you can find with each separately. I get the idea but a catch can (and like you said) proper oil change intervals can help keep your top end clean(er). The main reason I went with both was looking ahead to forced induction which really warrants the addition of the catch can.
@@truckandroll989 Deposits in engines have much to do with the way they're driven and maintained. Short trips are the absolute worst. They are what create the dark brown oil burnt on metal look. Also, not changing the oil enough vs how hard they're driven also has a great effect. Audi's lol yup they were really bad and a classic example of how turbocharged di injection only with very high crank case pressures and lots of blow-by has a dramatic effect on intake valve coking. As for forced induction I absolutely agree with a catch can due to the high crank case pressures but for normally aspirated, port and direct injection it's not needed but it can't hurt unless there's a warranty issue then Ford will make you remove it. However in your case that's not an issue as you don't care about warranty obviously since you're intending on modding it so much. The 5.0 is a great choice for mods. Fantastic engine and the end of an era of greatness... one of the last of the great V8's. 🍻
Really wish you had shown how you took that wire off. I don't want to pull the wrong part of it...is it the entire large black part that comes off or is it the thinner part under the red connector?
Hey dude, love the car and the videos. Its been a while since you posted. Did you get any friction issues with driver side? I have a Mach 1 also, trying to optimize hose routes.
No friction issues to speak of. Im not sure if you have seen some of my later stuff but I modified the catch cans to be open now (vent to atmosphere on one side) since adding the twin turbos. Thank you for watching. Ill likely be posting new videos here in a week or so. For sure in the next 2wks as I have a race coming up.
Intake valves do not get dirty on a gen 3 as it uses DI and port for fuel, So low speed it uses port high DI if you don't have forced air I don't see why you would fit these. I ran a set on my 2019 after 2 years was only about 10ml in them.
The plan is to add boost within a year. Keep in mind the oil is still getting by which can gum up your manifold, dilute fuel (i.e. lower your octane), etc. its good you weren’t seeing much but im planning ahead for when this far has twins
@@truckandroll989 Yes if your going to force air then it's a good call as your gonna push oil at some stage but NA peeps don't really need these, As your engine ages these cans will become more of a use but on a new engines very little. Have you had anymore thoughts on what you are going to do with the grill cutouts, My Mach 1 will be here in the UK in november I have been able to order PP for it as you can't spec it in the UK. Talked to UK Steeda about fog light's for the grill they are talking to people about it but only if there is interest in them.
You do not need a catch can On the fresh air intake side of the valve cover this air is needed to force air oil mixture through the pvc system fresh air going into the crank case and no air oil coming out
Keep watching the videos. Car now has twin 62mms and inlet side is pressurized. Cans were installed knowing boost was coming and have since been modified for the new setup
hello and greetings from Germany, what can you do now after about a year of using the Oil catch Can? Do you still need an oil catch can with the new Mach 1? What can you report about the use and efficiency of what you say about oil?
Currently the car has twin turbochargers so the dual catch cans have been extremely beneficial. Prior to the turbochargers only 1:2 catch cans would collect oil. Typically you notice condensation mix (water with a bit of oil). I wouldn’t say you a absolutely need them but I think they are nice to have.
The idea of a catch can is to filter out oil before the pressure recirculates through the intake/throttle body. With that in mind, do you think the passenger side one is even necessary? I have only the driver side one installed on my Mach1, as thats the one routing to the intake/throttle body.
Both sides route to your intake/TB. From memory the drivers side plugs in in front of the TB and passenger is after. Your going to have vacuum after the TB in all conditions except when the car is off or your at WOT. With that in mind I believe the passenger side is more crucial than the driver
Thanks for the video! With some manufacturers…Including Ford Performance…only making a separator for passenger side, what’s the detriment of doing only passenger side vs both sides?
I suspect because the passenger side connection occurs downstream of the throttle body so whenever the engine is running you have manifold vacuum here which aids in sucking any oily vapor from the valve covers towards the manifold. On the drive side the connection is in front of the throttle body. So again if there is blowby in the drivers side head its going to enter via the TB but probably to a lesser extent. At least thats my guess looking at the routing
@@truckandroll989 Thanks much for your thoughts on it. I just picked up a Mach 1 last weekend. It’s quite a change coming from an Audi S3...but I’m loving it!
Im sure the FRPP one works great too. From checking it looked like it was only for the passenger side. Hood struts would be nice, especially a set that increases the angle more than with the stock prop rod
I added the FRPP performance Pak to my 19 Pp1 car. That includes the pro cal tool, throttle body and open element “cold air” from bullitt. The position of the throttle body electronics changes. The FRPP catch can for GT won’t fit. You would need to source one for bullitt if FRPP sells one specific to the bullitt/Mach1. I have the JLT on mine.
Watch some of my newer videos. I detail the oil pump gear and crank sprocket install. The oil pump isnt the issue its the stock gear and sprocket. Also I did go forced induction but chose two things which are a bit more efficient then a supercharger ;)
@@LMach1 Honestly, here are my thoughts. First, im not sure that bar is 100% crucial. The holes are somewhat slotted I wouldn’t consider it a rigid structural member. Second, im sure you could come up with a design of a custom strut bar that fits around the supercharger if you really wanted to. Finally, the bigger concern for me is the excess stress a supercharger puts on the crankshaft snout and you are always turning the blower. With turbos your efficiency goes way up and it drives like stock outside of boost. Plus you will make more power with the same level of boost. The install is more involved but otherwise its kind of a no brainer in my opinion. Finally, boost changes are with the push of a button with turbos. Changing boost on a blower means breaking out some tools and swapping pulleys, belts, etc.
@@mikep1584 my car is twin turbo now so I was planning ahead. Both sides picked up a tablespoon or two after racing/driving between oil changes. When NA the drivers side was dry but not the case after turbos. Check out some of my newer videos to see how this car does with twin 62s
Sorry I have the first stage 2 whipple supercharged mach1 in the United States according to whipple they did not even have the program for the stage 2 I had to have the program written and a tune put on it 729 hp
Is something wrong with your engine and or port injection? What is wrong with the port injection that cleans off the back of the intake valves and disallows carbon buildup?
I think I covered this in another comment response but I think you are confusing two thing’s. First, all modern vehicles require pcv systems as a means of emission control. They were introduced in the early 60s. The catch cans are simply being added in line with the system to capture any oil blow by, condensation, etc. Only difference from stock is you now have a means to “clean” the pcv system easily to remove small amounts of blow by (on a stock/new car as this can and will get worse with age). Every vehicle will have some small amount of blow by the catch cans just allow a spot for the “heavies” to drop out before re entering the intake. Second, Port injection has been around (on Fords at least) since the mid 80s and is still the primary means of fuel delivery (supplemented with a combination of direct injection via high pressure pump/injectors on gen 3 coyotes). The point of port injection has nothing to do with cleaning out blow by. Cars with or without port injection can and will see some amount of oil blow by/gum up with age. Major takeaway is that a functioning pcv system (ideally with catch cans in line) helps prevent/ward that off if checked/emptied
I have no complaints about this one. The design is pretty simple so as long as the connectors are quality and fitment looks good Id say pick any brand you like.
Question I thought they fixed this in 2017 or 18 added port injection back. Least that what Scotty said. So the newer especially 2021 should be direct and port injected. So why the need for a catch can?
This is just my opinion so take it for what it is worth to you. First, 2018 + is port + direct. Gen 1/2 Coyotes are port only. I have also since added twin turbos so the catch cans are a must (they regularly fill up with condensation and a small amount of oil). You can partially think of this mod as me planning ahead. With that being said every engine is going to have some amount of blow by (it is inevitable). For me its trying to minimize excess oil from entering the intake and gumming things up. Do you absolutely need them? No. If you are on a budget, like the added benefit, and are NA go passenger side only (you will see oil in it). If you are boosted then you need to do both sides and empty somewhat regularly.
@@yetti2014 this is my second Coyote. I had nothing but issues with the Mt-82 in my 2013 even at near stock power levels. The Tremec on the other hand is an absolute peach! If you are chasing 1/4 mi times or want to be the fastest in the block the 10spd is great but if you like rowing your own gears you cannot go wrong with this transmission!
@TruckandRoll that's what's I've heard. I'd love to have it set up to be able to do track and drag pretty well. I really love the track pack on the mach 1 with all the gt350 coolers.
It handles exceptionally well. I didnt want the handling package since i felt it was too track focused for a car that spends most of its time on the street.
@@truckandroll989 Since I don't plan on tracking my car very much if at all, I'm leaning toward the base Mach1 without the handling package. Plus the base comes with a much better street tire, as the handling package car has the cup 2's which I've read are not good on the street.
@@dougmaverick3287 ive driven a GT350 on a road course/street and its an animal on the track but it tran lines in every imperfection in the road and is pretty harsh. The standard Mach 1 is great. If you really wanted to you could slap some different tires on it but its been great on track.
@@nbracamonte0611 I did a few short road course days after installing the catch cans and the driver side was dry. Who knows if more usage would have caused an accumulation but I think you could omit it and be fine if you plan to stay NA
To be honest since the snow has started falling I haven’t been driving it very much. But the last drive I did notice a ticking sound that I did not like
Driver side is pointless. Its low pressure because its way before the throttle body. Seriously even after 30k miles on my 2019 GT. There wasn't even a wipeable amount of residue. Now the passenger side, Yes. I like to drain it every 2000 miles. There is always a few oz of oil in it.
Also watched you vid on doing an oil change. Or sorry I started and I switched off. 1, You never prefill an oil filter. The oil you buy has contaminants in it. 2, do not lubricate the seal of the filter on the mach 1! It has a different material and should be dry when fitted to a clean dry surface. Read the ford bulletin dude. Went out to all ford registered dealers/owners. Hope your mods go well!
I gotta disagree with you on all accounts. First why would prefilling an oil filter be damaging? The point is to build oil pressure immediately on startup as quickly as possible. Oil filters generally have internal anti drain back mechanisms to minimize this after sitting but nothing prevents this on a new totally empty filter. Second the oil isn’t contaminated it meets all specs for the Mach 1. Finally, the gasket material has not changed. Ford just doesnt want you to install them too loosely. People are getting all caught up in the torque spec Ford calls for - its 44inlb plus 180 degrees. 44in lb is less than 4ft lb. Basically they are saying the old idea of running the filter on until it touches and adding 3/4 of a turn is too loose thats all. Thanks for watching
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Sweet! Do you have videos on it or a link to any forum posts? Id love to watch/read about it. I was unaware anyone had done that yet. What is your setup?
It shouldn’t. All you are doing is adding an inline location for oil to separate out. If a dealer were to challenge you on it for some reason id call BS
@@tealtonerick6345 keep in mind Ford sells a catch can of their own. Again could it happen? Sure. Is it likely to be the hill Ford is going to die on… no. I wouldn’t let this stop you but to each his own. Another good resource is to contact the well known tuners/engine builders and see what they say. Always a good resource on the benefits/drawbacks of any mod
It is totally up to personal preference. Will you routinely track the car or will this be a daily driver? Will you only drive it occasionally and can sacrifice a bit of creature comfort for the look and feel of the handling package? For me I was ok with sacrificing some performance for a bit more of a grand tourer feel so i opted to forego the handling package in lieue of the premium trim, wheels, and upgraded sound system. However, if this was a weekend car only I may have gotten the handling package.
Certainly cheaper but keep in mind the point of a modern PCV is to prevent oil/combustion gassed from entering the air. This is why it is rerouted between the intake and valve covers. So you could do this but it would be a red flag during any visual emissions inspections
I'd like to chime in on all of this since I am a Mach 1 owner. I picked up my 2021 Mach 1 (Twister Orange, 6-speed, original seats with stripe, 5-spoke wheels) on 5/14/21. I spent the next 6 mo taking her to car shows all over Ohio and even into PA. She has 4K on her. I have not even changed the oil yet (I know, duhhhh!!!!!). Why? Because i've owned 2002 trans am, 2017 Camaro 1SS, 2 other mustangs, a 2016 Hellcat and a 2019 392 Charger, all with no issues, and didn't realize that 1st oil change should be @ 1000 mi. OK, NOW I KNOW. So as I write this I am ordering a Ford high performance racing filter (from American Muscle) and plan on purchasing 10 quarts of 5W-30 full synthetic (no blend!) and taking all of it to my local oil change place. They will do it with my oil and filter for $32. I also just purchased a Hellcat Redeye Charger and when she gets to 500 miles, she's getting her first oil change with oil and a filter I purchased already (Pennzoil for SRT). OK, having said all of that, I really appreciate your videos. You seem to really know your stuff and despite some disagreement on here, i'll just say that these are YOUR vehicles and you can do whatever you want to them and IMHO, if it makes you happy, then that's all that matters. As for me, I just bought an enclosed car hauler so now I can trailer my two muscle cars and keep the mileage way down. I have no intention of running up the miles on these cars. So for me, adding oil catch cans doesn't seem to be necessary. I think you should make that distinction when you recommend these types of mods because some owners will not put a lot of miles on these cars each year vs others who will put a lot of miles on each year. I am sick that I put 4k miles on my Mach 1 in only 6 mo but that won't happen now with the trailer. The Redeye and Mach 1 probably won't see more than 1K - 2K a year now. And i'm keeping them both bone stock, no mods. They won't even be raced. I'm pretty easy on my vehicles although at times I will use their speed and power. I just won't do anything to abuse them. But ultimately the engineers designed these vehicles to perform the way they do based on S-O-T-A technology so why should I EFF with any of it? Again, though, to each his own and I fully support your decisions because they're your vehicles and these are the mods you want to do. Everyone on here should recognize that it's personal choice and may not be for everyone. And also base their decisions on personal use. By the way, just my opinion, but after 4K, I can say to anyone that a Mach 1 is one hell of a car. Ford did this pony right. I won't go into the Redeye here but let me just say that it's work of fking art in every way, shape, and form. I will continue to watch your videos and learn from your expertise. Thanks for making them. Oh, you probably wanna wear gloves when using that jack :)
New Stangs don't need a catch can. The Gen 3 Coyote motor has separators built into the system itself, and, it now uses a duel injection system like Toyota has been doing... Where it is GDI, but it's also got a second set of injectors that spray some fuel into the intake port, which keeps the valves clean. Besides that, for all the popularity and hype about GDI motors, there has never been a credible study showing that not having a catch can, causes any issues. More than 50% of all US fleet vehicles... meaning 10's of millions of cars, trucks and vans, are GDI. If it was a problem, it would be wide spread and we would know about it. Failures would be common, and they just aren't.
I think yon said that you’ll be reusing the oil from the catch can. I could be wrong, but my understanding is that what it collects is contaminated. Can anyone verify? I always discard it from the can.
Honestly I will probably do the same but its not contaminated. You can just as well put it back into the motor. Its the same oil that would Be there if you popped a valve cover off and stuck your finger inside and swiped.
@@truckandroll989 Cool, thanks man! I test drove a Mach 1 recently (same color as yours) and both the handling and the rev matching blew me away. Great car - have fun testing the MagneRide suspension on the track. 👍🏻
Everyone is so butt hurt about the numbers. Go check out Steeda’s dyno comparison and then understand the difference between hp and torque 😉. Sorry im feeling spicy this morning
@@iamnoah26 lol did i hit nerve it doesnt take much to piss off a ford fan boy does it they only build mustangs for people that are too stupid to buy a real car!