@@Kidchevy88 id say the biggest improvement/thing you should do (if you dont have the new holley sniper) is the modification I mention to improve throttle feel. Beyond that keep an eye on sensors. I had a new coolant temp sensor fail which makes vehicle run super rich/basically undrivable. Also, if you want the most out of your sniper, even though they are self learning, plan a dyno session with a reputable tuner and he/she can dial it in faster/better.
I need to get one installed for anti theft measures. I don’t see anyone stealing my car in my area, but when I go into the deeper parts of my cities, it would just be a nice addition
@@EAJ97 its a really good idea. Ive had friends recently, multiple actually, have their cars stolen. An apple air tag is another great idea for tracking. Thanks for watching!
Check out sleeperdudes last engine build, (ford). He was saying with 302 ford block and bigger heads, that he had to go with an older timing chain because it is thinner than a newer timing chain allowing to run a mechanical fuel pump without leaking thru the bottom of the water pump housing. I don’t know if it is the same as a ford. Ok I gotta know, How did you get the undercarriage of your mustang so clean? I have an 01 roush and it is bad. Not horrible but far from looking like yours.
@@busarob3679 so depending on which video you watched I had to pull the k member on my 97 Cobra. While it was off I degreased and power washed it. That made a huge difference! Thank you for watching!
Yeah there is a worse oil change, the gm 5.3l (or any LS/modern LT for that matter) is worse, at least you can fully grip the hemi oil filter with your hand rather then on the 5.3l where your forced to do a balancing trick with your fingers with the risk of it slipping and dropping into the oil pan and making a mess because the god damn filter is so tight up against the oil pan 🤦🏼♂️
@@rickwingo6970 $56k Here is the add but obviously the entire build history is on my channel facebook.com/marketplace/item/831854978812546/?mibextid=6ojiHh
I can't say enough good things about quick performance. I have called them 3 times so far, and every. single. time. I got someone who could help me out from beginning to end. No sending me to so and so who is at lunch and half to leave a message. I ordered my differential and axles, and two days later I got an out for delivery notice for the axles. It came 2nd day air which I didn't even request but it was a nice customer service assurance. I paid the extra money for a slight rush job, but the man said it should ship on July 10th. LOVE these guys. Very knowledgeable!
Did you have to adjust the target rpm lower after installing extension lever ? My car idles higher (1100 rpm ) now than it did with the snappy pedal without the extender (800 rpm ) Or will the sniper self tune and find the target rpm again eventually?.
@@spades262 it has been a while but i would imagine if you can slide the new arm into place of the stock one and it doesnt move the throttle blades there should be no change and you adjust it as you would stock. I think idle rpm is set with the screw. Also there were settings in the software for linear vs progressive throttle if i remember correctly.
Like that the last thing was to tie it all together... are you going to take it to the track to show us what the results are after 6 months of hard labor?👍 I'm guessing that you sold the c10 but I was wondering what your thoughts were on the 6 speed? I have an 83 GMC short box with a blown sbc and the Sniper guesstamating around 500hp kinda simular to what yours was ,and looking to pull the 700r4 for the last time...
A track day would be fun. The only issue is I have a nasty trans leak I need to sort out and it’s now >100F in Utah. I will one day though! Regarding the 6 spd I liked it a lot but wasn’t in love with the rebuild I received. It would pop out of first gear which was terrifying. I’d highly recommend a stick with an overdrive. Honestly maybe a TKX considering your hp, it’s size, weight, and cost
Enjoyed this video? After a couple years I tried my hand at “comedy”again here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g3FBbJLb7rA.htmlsi=dHxykw9OZRzn9cI7
OMG, I've seen so many RAM oil change videos, not because I don't know how to change my oil, but because every time I need to; I think to myself, there must be a better way. It sucks so bad and think, this was RAM's 5th generation :). The key I see is to approach it with a humorous attitude. Thanks man.
Lol its honestly not the worst but the swaybar bit cracks me up. Honestly easiest vehicles to change the oil on have been my Corvettes when I had them. Drain plug doesnt hit anything, filter is directly on the bottom. Ugh why cant more OEMs make it simple or at least mess free!
@@truckandroll989 You are the first I've seen take the sway bar down. I installed a Fumoto F106N drain valve in place of the drain plug years ago and it made that part way easier. Sway bar was close to making contact with the nipple so I trimmed it down about a 1/4". Still plenty left to a little hose on though. Not needed but keeps the wind from blowing the little stream all over. Also tried the oil udder XL yesterday and punctured the filter and wow, cleanest oil change I've done on the RAM ever. Still not Corvette easy but tolerable.
Play has installed the boot incorrectly the large grommet goes on in the boot goes on The grommet holds the top of the boot over the bolts you didn't read the instructions or they don't have it in the instructions it's pretty much common Sense evidently he doesn't have that
Hi, am I play? Im not sure. It was either that or the OP with no common sense. Either way thanks for watching. Sorry my grommet finesse didn’t live up to your expectations. I was going to check your channel for instructional videos, but alas there aren’t any ;) keep up the good work.
While I don't own a Chevy and never will, I do have an 89 F150 and a 99 Ranger, both of which I put one of these core shifters in and they're SO worth it. Especially in the f150, it has a straight six and it's not fast by any stretch of the imagination, but it's a hell of a lot faster with the core shifter.
I believe Scorpion. Ill be honest I dont think rockers make too much of a difference. Id go on summit and see what has the best reviews and go that route. What id be more concerned with is getting a quality lifter.
@@jakegrassi6785 gotcha. Honestly Comp, Lunati, Scorpion, etc. are all good choices. Id go off of reviews. I watched an engine masters episode a while back and it seemed like most rocker arms tested about the same unless you are doing crazy high rpm stuff
I agree. What makes me think its an 86 something is the lack of valve reliefs in my pistons. I think you are right it was likely some 1986, non HO, car motor.
No worries just passing on info,my previous engine was out of a 91 crown Vic, efi non h.o, it had the dished pistons no reliefs.w/88 t-bird harness. I checked engine compatibility and it was the same engine for all the efi roller non h.o 5.0 cars. .🤷♂️👍🏼
Another good video. My old Falcon manual says to torque the “spring assembly to rear axle U-bolt lock nut” to 13-20 ft*lb. When I did this job my little press couldn’t handle it. So I used a jig saw with a metal blade to cut the front sleeve. And then pealed it up on both sides until it was mangled enough to come out. Wasn’t pretty.
Good looking out on the torque spec. For some reason I felt like that seemed low but it surely wont mangle the lock washers like mine did at 40ish ft lbs. Ive got new plates, bolts, and hardware coming that I will make sure to torque properly. Those bushings can be an absolute bear. The second set came out easier but Im also lucky that my car seems to have avoided too much water/moisture over its life
Whats nice is your 1990 has valve reliefs so you could run a bit more aggressive cam. Im curious how much torque I am giving up with the single plane but overall Im happy its a fun car.
@@truckandroll989 I'm still working on it. I had a lot of problems with exhaust leaks and then the ECU went. Holley changed the main body and ECU. I now have about 75 miles on it and all is good. It's an off-road truck so it hard to get street mii
Soooooo much word salad , just show what you did and save the emotional angst part , picture is worth a 1000 words , i bailed at the 3/4 mark , play the scene from Good Will Hunting where he burns the math paper and crushes the professor in 15 words !
If yours had the side to side play that mine did I dont think that “fix” would be enjoyable for long. Its not just a shorter stick. The geometry of the portion that goes into the transmission is different too. Its a more direct feel, less slop side to side, and obviously shorter throws forward and back.
Call up Hellion on the phone if it isnt listed online. The Mach 1 kit is different and special. It needs a handful of changed to fit the larger front coolers, intake, etc. its more similar to a GT350 kit but they should have a Mach 1 specific option
Heres what i grabbed from my sales order from a few years ago (your welcome ;)) MDL Lighten Billet Steel Flywheel, Ford, 81-95 50oz, 5.0L only, 10.4" Metric clutch pattern, with alignment pins. MDL Clutch Set, Super King Cobra Kit, Ford 10.4" Metric pattern heavy duty pressure plate Organic Steel backed 10.4" 10 spline 1-1/16" disk
We got our springs out without a compressor. there really isn't a lot of tension left in them at full drop. really only had to pry them off the lip, but not that hard.
Well that is good. It’s always better when they come out easy. I wound up making another video when working on my 1964 Comet specific to just spring compressors. After having to buy a few types for different jobs i figured it was time to explain
I have long tube headers and want to put these before the cats, there’s plenty of room to do so, would doing that throw any codes? Not worried about downstream as I have them tuned out only worried about upstream
The short answer is it shouldn’t be a problem, especially when closed. When opened Id try and place them so you at least have a foot to 18” of space between the sensors and cutout opening but even that is likely conservative.
I appreciate you watching and commenting. Bench bleeding can be beneficial to make the bleeding at the calipers go quicker. Ive done it both with and without and feel it doesnt add much time up front but can help on the back end.
Hi, never seen anyone use a brass tee nor has it been suggested to me as an option when you’re out of ports! Does it work, fan comes on and off as it should? I take it the other probe is a temperature sensor… is it working correctly? For some reason I was thinking the probe wouldn’t be in the coolant, but there I go thinking again 😂
Aside from maybe aesthetics (i.e., brass fitting on an aluminum intake) it works great. So long as it’s the correct NPT thread it really doesnt matter whether you use brass, aluminum, steel, etc. On this setup both are coolant temperature but one is for my gauge inside the car on the dash and the second for the electric fan. You could use a similar approach with oil if you only had one tap but needed to know pressure and temperature.
@@truckandroll989 hey man,you are on to something, on my Chevy my intake only has one port for my temp, the radiator probe was inconsistent, I’m in the head right now but too hot, fan stays on. I was going to cut my upper radiator hose and use one of those adapters but don’t really like the look. Spent hours and hours searching for a solution then Walla! I seen your video and thought that might work! Your fan is coming on and off like it should?
@@daves485 yes fan comes on and off like it should. Another plus is I know my fan set temp and my gauge temp are consistent since I can watch my dash gauge and listen for the fan.
I had one minor hiccup where one stopped working briefly. I contacted Digipower and they told me to try and clean the connector and if that didnt work they would replace actuator for free. Cleaned as instructed and they are back to working. These are definitely in a harsh environment right after the turbos but seem to be holding up well
I appreciate you watching/commenting. This wound up being $1000 per person. Included basically 9.5-10hr of seat time, car, instructor, and 2 sets of tires :)
Honestly, it is not easy and it is tedious. Be very careful that you have removed all the rtv and watch where it goes. It just takes time and patience since you aren’t dropping whole pan. Id change oil when you are done as well.
Thanks! On it atm, you did it like this as well or dropped k-member & pan? Guessing you mean replace oil after couple of 100 miles as no oil in the system now:) thanks again.
Awesome- thx! Last question if I may- you rtv’d the front of the pan and tightened pan bolts and then went on doing chains and reinstalling timing cover with rtv in the corner where the cover meets block & pan?
@@dank6408 i want to say I waited to do the RTV until i was ready to reinstall the front timing cover and then torqued it all back up so I could see between the timing cover and pain/block surfaces
