Great video, As a fellow dealership tech who happened to start my automotive path at a Walmart oil center that used frams your explanation was spot on. There is nothing at all wrong with the filters, especially for the price. For someone on a budget they are better quality that could be expected in my opinion. Keep up the good content man!
My dad has been taking his 2010 f150 with a 5.4 to walmart for oil changes since it was new. It's still running strong at 190,000 miles and he can be hard on his vehicles.
I use rotella T4 or T6 and what ever filter is on sale I change my oil EVERY 3,000 to 3,500 miles. Fuel filters every 10,000 , Tranny Fluids about every 25,000 ... It Works... I have a 1989 Dodge Dakota w/ 296,000 mile , My step son drives our old Toyota Camry w/ unknown mileage because the digital odometer read 399,999 and that was 2 or 3 yrs ago. My winter beater is a 99 Honda CRV w/ 210,000 and our good car is a 2012 Dodge Caravan w/ 164,000... PLUS I have a 06' 5cyl diesel Mercedes/Dodge Sprinter RV w/ 172,000 all 3 dodges are almost rust free , The Honda and Toyota though are RUST BUCKETS and the drive train will last far longer than the Sub frames... NONE of the Vehicles have EVER been Majored w/ only wear parts needing replaced.the dodge caravan has only had the batt , brakes , and tires in 164K mi though she is going to need a starter soon... My stepson is looking for a solid well maintained Toyota or Honda right now that is around 10 yrs old and 100,000 miles if anyone has one for sale in Ohio or western Pa ...Many blessings , SMR
Never worked in a shop. I grew up working on cars as "shade tree" mechanic. I've been using fram filters (but I'll use whatever brand is on sale many times at autozone/automotive store). I've probably done thousands of oil changes for friends and family over the years. I've never had a problem with fram
I use rotella T4 or T6 and what ever filter is on sale I change my oil EVERY 3,000 to 3,500 miles. Fuel filters every 10,000 , Tranny Fluids about every 25,000 ... It Works... I have a 1989 Dodge Dakota w/ 296,000 mile , My step son drives our old Toyota Camry w/ unknown mileage because the digital odometer read 399,999 and that was 2 or 3 yrs ago. My winter beater is a 99 Honda CRV w/ 210,000 and our good car is a 2012 Dodge Caravan w/ 164,000... PLUS I have a 06' 5cyl diesel Mercedes/Dodge Sprinter RV w/ 172,000 all 3 dodges are almost rust free , The Honda and Toyota though are RUST BUCKETS and the drive train will last far longer than the Sub frames... NONE of the Vehicles have EVER been Majored w/ only wear parts needing replaced.the dodge caravan has only had the batt , brakes , and tires in 164K mi though she is going to need a starter soon... My stepson is looking for a solid well maintained Toyota or Honda right now that is around 10 yrs old and 100,000 miles if anyone has one for sale in Ohio or western Pa ...Many blessings , SMR
Glad to hear that. Maybe your shop used a Fram oil filter that was not available at a store for the public? Disagree about Fram!! Please see my post elsewhere here, on my experience with Fram oil filters.
@@joev4538 No. they were over the counter Fram Extra Guard. They used them before I got there, the 12 years I was there and even after I left. Personally I’ve always used either Toyota- had 3 cases given to me at one time- or Wix. That’s what my grandfather used and he taught us oil changes at a young age. So I just stuck with them. If I couldn’t get them I used Napa Gold. When I was in the business, Wix made them for Napa.
@@peteschiavoni And I agree with what you said for Fram history!! I used Fram (and ACDelco and maybe 2 others) for 4.5 decades! I'm 65 now. And maybe Fram works fine for a vertical mount location. I have 2 Panther cars where the filter is horizontal - @Ford Boss Me knows. Considering I have multiple Fram failures - either the drainback valve does not work which empties out the oil, or the internal frame and media collapse (and I have 2 in the garage!), allowing the oil to drain out when the cars sit more than 18 or 20 hrs - no, I will not use Fram - I don't want my cars to start with 0 oil pressure. This is not just 1 or 2 Frams over many years, this is 5 Frams 1st & 2nd most expensive in price, on 2 cars - first car 3+ years ago and second car last year. Regardless of price - why would I use a filter that goes dry while the car sits 18+ hrs, and "that no oil sound" on engine startup? I'm not going to install remote oil filter relocation setup, just to make the oil filter vertical on the rad support or left fenderwell. I don't have these problems with K&N, Mobil1, ACDelco. (There are other brands, I would have to order them online.) And after I discovered this with my 2 Panther cars - the 2 RU-vid videos back up what I'm saying. That's it!! Wish I cut them open decades ago, I'll never know if 2 Mopar engines were lost due to bad filters. YES - both the 426 wedge and 340 had horizontal filter mounting. 👏👏👊👊😝 😇 💨
Have only used the cheapest Fram filters on my 08 car. Regular oil changes, engine is currently at 180k miles and runs fine. Those results speak for themselves
I use k&n because it has the 1-inch nut on the bottom it makes so easy to remove. My GMs wrap the oil pan around the filter and is a pita getting the wrench on regular filters.
Nothing wrong with Supertech oil. Made by Warren Distribution. I've run plenty of it in 2 Mustangs, a Camaro SS, a Challenger, a Mini Cooper, and 2 Harley Davidsons. No issues at all. Just keep your oil & filter changed every 3k-5k miles depending on driving habits and environment. It's cheap insurance!
For a couple of years now, since I got into some small hobby automotive work, I was always told to avoid FRAM, so I always, no matter what, spent the 13 bucks on a K&N Gold Oil filter, being told it had higher flow and far better durability. I'm gonna get ready to change my oil, gonna give FRAM a shot finally. If they do the job like you say, then they have my business.
Yeah just get one of the really good Ultra synthetic ones at like I'm running right now and it's a phenomenal product and it's easy to put them on and take them off
I was working at a truck rental business in 1984 and Fram was a pain in the rear. It didn't matter whether you tightened the filter spec or overtightened it . Somewhere before halfway through the oil change you'd better tighten it again because it was leaking, even had one puck 9 gallons before the driver got it shut off. I personally wouldn't trust a Fram any further than I could throw the vehicle it's attached to. My personal pickup (97 f250 7.3 powerstroke) and the wife's car get nothing but Baldwin.
Personally I just use Motorcraft filters on my all my stuff. Cheap enough at Walmart and never had a problem with them. Plus they always have FL-1A, 820S and FL-2062 in stock. Most filters are made by a few companies anyway and just painted a different color and different name. Only difference being the price.
In my 08 Ram diesel with over 200k miles which is used for towing I use Amsoil and their two micron bypass filter. I regularly change the oil at between 25-30k miles. It doesn't use oil between filters, and my last lab report at 18000 miles came in golden, with no metals. Antifreeze, or diesel in the oil. Their recommendation: It's fine, and has retained the additive packages, and 15-40 rating, so keep using it. Now mind you, this truck isn't running from stoplight to stoplight. It's a highway truck that exclusively tows loads. Amsoil is one of the few oils out there that is 100% synthetic, and makes the engine run like a well oiled singer sewing machine. Most oils that state that they're full synthetic, aren't. the government allows oil pumped from the ground to be designated full if they're heavily filtered, and contain a few ounces of the tier 5, expensive esters oil. There is no sludge, or anything over two microns in the oil when I change it, so I'm adding new clean oil to a clean oil pan. Some trucking companies get well over 100k between changes doing this. It's a matter of understanding science and technology, and looking past the bs that some oil companies promote. In any event: glad you're going to try Amsoil. In independent test it's ranked #1, followed by Penzoil ultimate platinum, Scheifer, and redline oils. So: the above is what hotshot drivers do, but for most diesel motorists, Shell rotella is fine if you change it often. I am a former Porsche/vw mechanic and sixties drag racer and can blueprint an engine with the best of them. I seriously contemplate getting over a million miles out of this 6.7 engine by doing what I do. Enjoy your videos. Michael
I use Fram filters in my vehicles. And I maintain a strict maintenance schedule on them with Pennzoil Platinum oils. 1 vehicle has 280,000 miles on it the other 136,000 miles. No oil related issues ever.
I honestly used Fram filters for decades and never had an issue. But with all the internet trash talk about them it did scare me from using them in the last few years.
I see comments saying cheap Fram filters, price wise they are not so cheap. The only filter that fell apart when I tightened it was a Lee equivalent to a PH 8A and that was back in the '70s. So many cars are in the junkyard for other reasons than engine failure or oil related engine failure.
Well I’ve been a Auto Technician since 86. I’m ASE Master tech w/ L1. I now own my own shop. I personally cut open oil filter a few years ago. A Chevy 350 filter. Fram inside was junk. Smallest amount of filter pleating, cardboard ends cheap spring. I won’t run them.
I mean we all have stories and we all have experiences and it sucks when somebody else comes along and tells us that our stories and experiences are b******* And when somebody tells the f****** truth about something that we don't believe it f****** sucks because they're telling us that we're wrong The fact of the matter is....if people service their oil like they're supposed to at a severe oil change interval you'll never see it destroyed filter
For 50 years I changed my own oil at no more than 3k miles. I never had problem 1 with fram. Yes my story is anecdotal but 50 years so. This is true... if Fram were junk, they would void warranties. Now I am too old to change my oil so my mechanic does it with a O'Reilly brand. Still done at 3k or less...no problems. You are right, it is the interval of changes that is important.
At least once a week I’ll drive from my home in aurora to Chicago on 88. My church is by o’Hare airport so it’s a good 45-60 drive one way. I use whatever oil filter is on sell & get my oil changed every 3,000-5000 miles. Hopefully you have an blessed night
Very good video. Over my 30+ years on the biz, I can say this about oil and filters: 1) the cars that have oil changed more often tend to be more reliable and don’t leak oil out of every orifice. This from a guy that made a ton of money fixing oils leaks in the ‘90’s and loudly said “it’s nice to see Ford finally go after oil leaks.” 2) if you do your oil changes, you get a new filter. Easy to understand. 3) oils are virtually identical. And the Fram filters of today are way better then they were in the ‘80’s. 4) this isn’t something to worry about!
@Bones McGillicuddy you have your opinion. But if you listened to the video, under normal considerations of usage and mileage, the more often you change, the better overall. And TBH, I remember fram from the ‘70’s as one of the best filters around. If you look at the difference of filters being cut apart, fram doesn’t use quite as much filter medium as some others, while even purolator uses as much as motorcraft. The basic fact is that if you change oil, that’s the basic thing that helps the most.
@Bones McGillicuddy as I said, thatsYOUR opinion. If you’d like a lesson on oils, refer to the API ratings, which is what I use to guide. For example, when the 7.3L and all the various flavors if diesels were introduced, we had quite a time finding CD oil. Only a couple of makers made it. Newer oils have superseded the detergent levels of yesteryear. As for your obvious dislike of fram, what oil filter would YOU recommend? Purolator, Wix, Napa gold, Walmart, or something else? I’ve seen them all, and it’s been over and over again the changes timetables vs. usage that have the greatest impact on longevity. Another thing to keep in mind is that I’ve worked on the really old stuff (Buick’s, fords, etc) that had partial flow filters. By the standard of those days, today’s oils (even the worst) is super premium-long life.
I had no idea this was such a hot topic. I just buy the Subaru filters for my Subaru and don’t give it another thought. Now I have something new to look into.
The engineer that tells you 10k service intervals are ok works for a corporation that wants to sell you another car in 5 years or so. Only oil filter I’ve ever had an issue with was a K&N on my S10 that came loose and started to drop in a few hundred miles. That could have just as well been user error but I switched back to Delco on the next oil change and haven’t had any issues since.
I paid $4.50 for a Motorcraft FL820s yesterday at a local family owned auto parts store (Midway Auto Parts, Greer SC). For those that are "thrifty" just shop around and you'll find OEM isn't that expensive. The national auto parts stores have shareholders to keep happy $$$$. AZO is trading just shy of $1500 a share. My local Auto Zone wanted $8.99 for the same filter. Also yesterday at the same store, $14.00 for a 5qt Motorcraft 5w-30.
For my $5.00, if I got a choice of metal end caps vs. fiber, I'll take metal. Nothing wrong with Super Tech oil, meets the same standards (api ,ilsac, dexos) as Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Valvoline etc.
Don’t let these folks ruffle your feathers over a filter or oil quality. I have used every brand out there. Driven over a million miles commercially the service industry. Never had any catastrophic failure do to filter failure or lubricity lost. I started out as a parts washer at the age of 6 and haven’t put down a wench since. Worked on engines from the mid-20s to present day. Seen a lot of change over the years in quality and craftsmanship. Torn down & Clean up lots of gummed up non maintained engines. I’ve seen a lot of horror stories valve covers inside of valve covers oil pans inside of oil pans and Engine with home grown windage scrapers. Lots of clogged up pick up screens and pick up tubes.There’s a lot of farmer brown tricks out there to clean these engine. I know which ones work. Used a lot of additives. DuPont,mmo,cd2,atf,& aviation products as well. Every engine I own gets a dose of mmo in the oil and gas. My current daily driver has 300k and gets dose and still has 60 psi on the gauge.keep up the good work. Wrench Warrior unite. 🛠🔩⚙️
Fram is a great filter i use it on all my lawn equipment and Vehicles exept my EcoBoost mustang since its brand new but the motocraft filter cost the same as the fram filter in Walmart.
I think the RU-vid videos of guys comparing cut apart new or used filters is what is hurting Frams reputation. Fram is generally the worst reviewed, sometimes even having failures (holes in pleats, rust) in new filters. The difference in a quality filter like Napa Gold, Wix, Purolator One, compared to a Fram that has inferior materials is only a couple dollars. Why cheap out? The higher end Fram might be better made, but I definitely think their reputation is damaged by their standard oil filter.
The new Fram Endurance for synthetic oils is one of the best oil filters you can buy now if you want to reduce engine wear even at 5000 mile oil changes. Proven to catch 99.99% of particles 20 microns or larger, most other oil filters only significantly filter particles at 30 microns or larger. It's right on par with a $20 Amsoil oil filter at half the price.
Thank you. I remember seeing $15,000 mopar motors with Fram filters on them at the Mopar nationals all the time. I talked to one of their engine builders and he just laughed when I asked about the Fram filter on there. That’s all I needed to know about Fram. I’ve been using them for 30 years.
Ive watched RU-vid videos about oil filters. The FRAM ultra synthetic filter seemed to actually be one of the best. I do use this and always been good 👍 though my Ford 5.4 said otherwise “MOTORCRAFT ONLY BITCH, or i get “ticked” off!”
@@TonicofSonic I just noticed that the tensioners would keep oils in them overnight and my initial start in the morning would be quiet until the oil was getting due. 3000mi 5oookm then change oil no tick and being a tech i got the filters at ford for $8ea even Fram was more $10 for the orange and synthetic was $15
Just like Hyundai got a bad rap for the accents back in the early 2000’s. They had a 100,000 mile 10 year warranty. The cars were fine, it was the people buying them that were the problem. I wish I could purchase a brand new car for $6,999!
These days, you can only buy a "share" of a car. Need ten people to get together to be able to afford a new one ;-) Just like homes. Who can afford a nice one in a nice neighborhood without roomies?
Do you think you could review reusable oil filters? The ones that apparently last forever and you just wash out? I don't know if you've touched up on that subject or not but I'd be interested in your opinion
I use Bosch and Wix (Napa Gold or Platinums). Napa Platinums cost about $5 when your catch a deal. I got Bosch Platinums for $3 on Walmart closeouts so I bought 12 of them. I used Purolator for a long time until they started over spraying paint on the can into the filter area. I wouldn't touch a filter with a fiber end cap. I've seen them with holes right through the end cap. How much of that fiber got sent through the engine?
I use frame, super tech, WIX, ac Delco,,any filter. I travel nationwide and put over 25k a year on my Chevy van and I just change oil every 4k and when I reach the milage I go to any store that has oil and filters. I then proceed to buy whatever is cheapest synthetic blend oil and filter. Not one difference in mpg, oil pressure, engine noise or anything else.
I have used them before. Back when I worked at the dealership and then the parts store, I installed and sold whatever the customer wanted. I prefer the oem filter, mostly because I like them better. But just because I prefer to see the factory logo when I slide up under my cars to change the oil, doesn't mean that Fram is better or worse. I also prefer Pennzoil in my cars, I have been using it for several years and through hard driving, it has never failed me.
I can see where the haters are coming from. I too went through a time that I accepted someone else's word of this filter or that oil. I discovered later on that manufacturers do listen and change up their products. (Most of the time, anyway.) I found out that a lot of the time, the information was third-hand or worse, their bias based upon their reasoning after a bad experience or perceived slight. tl;dr: If someone disses a product, find out why and do your own tests if necessary.
Ok. First point of thought people need to stop and think. WHY do other companies compare themselves to Fram? It's not because it's low hanging fruit. It's their better standard to beat. It goes back to days of racing. Drag races for a long time were sponsored by Fram. Just like you now go all over the YT's every one is chasing after AMSOIL when for the longest time it was Lucas. The usual problem is the lack of maintenance. It amazes me how many times we hear "No one told me I had to change the oil" OR "It hasn't been 6 months yet"- nevermind they have put 9500 miles on a single oil change ( Looking at you Uber drivers) , customers always forget its X miles OR X months WHICH EVER COMES FIRST. The only thing that is going to kill the filters that are out there is ignorance and laziness.
Thank you very much i been using oil fram filters for years on my cars well say the dealership does where i have all my cars worked on I tell you another they put on my car sometimes.purelator they have been putting that type on my car for about three years and still haven't had no problems with that brand some that complain about that stuff don't pop hood and check there oil level on dipstick and see if its run low or looking dirty or clear from doing a lot driving and stuff you suprised how many people dont check there coolant and all there fluids under the hood i got a lot of buddies works at dealerships that are real good tech has told me check these fluids on your car if you been doing a lot of driving lately or if your car been sitting awhile and hasn't been driven for awhile cause i have two cars a newer type which i drive a lot sometimes it depends where I'm going and stuff and then my other car is just old clunker car as i call it for if go fishing or anything i dont mess my real good car people always tell me when you get rid that thing i said until i can't drive it no more i said dont let look fool you it good running car it 1998 oldsmobile Intrigue 3.8 liter V6 engine i said that has 3800 series engine best motor gm came out for them cars and thing still kicking because i believe keep up good maintance on my cars and i have had these car for years and haven't had put much money into at because i tell people the life of your car is keep up and change your oil on regular bases i have had cars where i have flipped mileage on the car once with orginal motor in it still one car i did it twice and passed it on down to older brother and he drove that car for years it was 1977 chevy classic caprica the motor finally died on it and couldn't run no more he ran so much the motor just couldnt take it no more and it blew up and it wasnt worth fixing it up at all i know it was where we keep the oil changed a lot and stuff on the car
My 65 mustang did that when oil was cold at startup the pressure would be at a 100psi and after engine got up to operating temperature the pressure would drop to 10 psi at idle I put a new oil pump in and oil pressure at 40 psi at idle when warm and no more collapsed oil filter. main and rod bearings had no wear.
Fram Ultra is one of the best filters out there. Metal end caps, full synthetic media, silicone anti drain back, 99+% efficiency at 20 microns, steel core and quality construction. The lower Fram filters, Extra Guard and Tough Guard, have fiber end caps. Both have silicone drain back valves. Tough Guard has cellulose media. Extra Guard has cellulose synthetic blend media. All three have spring loaded pressure relief valves on the end of filter. They have interchanged plastic and steel cores on the Extra and Tough. There's nothing wrong with a Fram filter.
I do oil changes every 5k but still don't use Fram, the Toyota/Lexus filters are $3-$5 at dealer, about the same for better quality. I've used Super Tech and Costco synthetic oil, it works and does the job
Problems appear with cheap people, they buy a cheap filter (fram) and they don’t replace the filter every oil change, they’ll do it every 4-5th oil change and then complain about the severely degraded filter I’ve been using fram filters the past 15years and replace it every oil change at 5k intervals and never had any issues
Many years ago Fram filters had stiff bypass springs, causing slight engine knock during cold starting, especially on Chrysler products. Obviously, that has changed just like paraffin based motor oil.
As is too often the case, people need something or someone to blame. Geez.... Let's blame the FRAM oil filter for the engine problems.... Let's forget about the 10-15K mile oil change intervals......
I won't say Fram is bad (no bad experiences here). But I will say that for the money Motorcraft filters are built well and, having cut one apart, I see they are designed differently. I'll stick with them if I can.
I have had a problem ac Delco oil filter PF61E filter medium cage broke paper element came loose inside filter .no damage to engine.e series have plastic cages old ac Delco where metal!
An airplane engine company wanted to find a car oil filter that would work the best but would be cheaper than a specialist filter. They liked the Wix and the Napa Gold with real reasons to back it up. I have over 280K on my Chevy and I use the orange Fram as I run highway and 5000 mile changes with new filter every time. Horses for courses.
I remember back in the day 1980's fram was the filter to use. I also was lead to believe fram filters are junk. I haven't used them in decades. I used Motorcraft in my f150 and moper in the jeep Or just use wix. I always do 3000 mile oil changes.
I like you and your videos and agree with everything you've covered this far, but I have to kindly disagree about the Fram filters. I worked in a big name engine dyno/development lab for a long time. We have run all sorts of tests....parts, oil, oil filters, oil aeration tests and have cut open hundreds of oil filters for inspection. They have the thinnest metal body and a cheap shallow stamped base where the sealing ring sits and the o-ring would blow out on some engines running higher oil pressures (80-100+PSI) which most run these days. We also had a couple instances where the filter media was trying to force it's way through the inner perforated metal body. After a couple big oil messes and even a couple fires due to the oil ring blowing out, we banned using Fram filters in our lab! With all that said I would never use Fram filters on anything of mine nor would I recommend that anyone else either. BTW six filters seem to be the heavy dutiest filter.
You dont have to agree with me lol Im not looking for people to agree, im stated my professional FACT vs someone elses opinion There is NO filter on the market that will damage your motor if used properly and vehicle maintained at a severe oci interval Fact
You educate people on proper filter to use per application and I've never seen an issue I have a 20k mile FRAM filter 20k rated ultra synthetic I educated my self and realize my application prob should have netter filtering capabilities So i went with a new nicer better filtering filter You drive a mercedes and you want to put a orange FRAM filter on it.... ummmm No
@@FordBossMe on an older pushrod engine fram filters are probably fine but these newer modern OHC/VVT and turbo'd engines running higher oil pressures, the cheapest "orange" filter is not a good choice.....maybe the more expensive, higher grade synthetic fram filter is better since I do not have experience with that.
Think about it logically, Fram cannot manufacture oil filters that can damage engines. Do you realize how many Fram filters are being used in engines right now at this very moment? And besides, it’s the SEALER under the fiber end caps that do the actual sealing! Fram knows a thing or two about making filters! I’ve never had a problem with them.
So what you’re saying is, you can get away with using a Fram filter if you change your oil more often, use better quality oil, and don’t drive too hard. Okay got it.
I've used about every aftermarket brand of oil filter on the available at Walmart never had a problem. I've been using supertech oil since it was 68 cents a quart never had a problem
I swear every time I used a fram filter the gaskets would be popping out of the retainer ring theyre in when I changed them. Didnt trust em after that. And no, I didnt tighten them too much.
And more than likely you over tighten the filter I've never seen a friend do that I've never seen any of the oil filter just start to push the ring out
I comparison contrasted on my 93 Toyota 4X pickup, fram versus Toyota brand products, two to three times the bulk and unnecessary crappiness filter wires all tune up items etc, paid the premium for Toyota OEM tune-up goodies one quarter to half smaller dimensions more efficient higher quality I don't need anything to bulk up and crap up everything of mine Toyota stuff was worth the extra bucks lasted longer less problematic not second and third hand first hand
Cheap filters are cheap filters to a extent. It's definitely a you get what you pay for. So you could test them all in the save interval ,cut them inspect /squeeze the material re inspect. Then add oil analysis. But that's alot of money to try a bunch of filters. Mainly what your gonna see is filter material difference/pleat count, possible screens and glue(or how they are glued).(hastings have been the worst for failing with glue in my experience.). Then bypasses will be a stamp steel or spring. But that why we have cost effective and not so cost effective options. I'm not biased to a brand I buy/sell/use amsoil,Conklin,fram(Amalie) oil. And use cheap/expensive filter it's really application based to me. To be a 💯 honest I'm more worried about oil specs(Tbn, additive packs ect) then filters.
@@FordBossMe I mainly use cheap part store filters for convenience, if they didn't work I wouldn't use them . If you did several oil tests you probably wouldn't see a difference till 6-8k+ honestly. I'm sure it would be slight unless it clog and open the bypass.
Cheapest oil filter for the Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 V8 is a Ford Motorcraft FL300 for $2.62 each at RockAuto. Might want to bulk purchase several if your dealer can't beat that price.
I drive a 1999 Pontiac Montana with 275,000 mils on it. Always do my own oil changes, usually with cheap oil and Fram filters, every 3,000 miles. Doesn't burn or leak any oil, and when I look inside the filler cap hole the engine looks clean. Regular PREVENTIVE maintenance is the key.
70% of the vehicles that come into our 2,000 unit salvage yard that are not crashed, come in due to simply running out of engine oil. It's absolutely shocking how basically no one checks their engine oil level now days. Some vehicles will "PCM command" to kill the fuel pump power in the event of a loss of engine oil pressure, but most won't. This running engines dry on engine oil is only going to get worse now with 10,000 and 20,000 mile oils changing gaining traction now.....
The local sheriff’s department went with Mobil One synthetic and extended 20,000 mile oil changes. The city police used the cheapest conventional oil and 3,000 mile oil changes. City police never had a problem. Sheriff’s department replaced several engines. As PT Barnum said, “there’s one born every minute.”
I've used either Fram or Purolator oil filters since '94 and I've never had a problem. Am using a Fram Ultra Synthetic right now for the first time as an upgrade and am satisfied with it. Engine runs fine.
Thank you for this! You make so much more sense than almost anyone else on this topic. I've used fram frequently, and never had an issue, but I change my oil regularly.
with SuperTech "synthetic" enigne oil being $17.00 for a 5 quart jug leaves no one an excuse to not change their engine oil. $17.00 for 5 quart jug, $3-$4 for a filter and no excuses now!! High quality oil and a new filter for $20.00.
When I bought my mercedes S55 w/ the m113k engine it had a fram filter. It was completely collapsed around the housing and falling apart. The filter was NOT completely fine...
@ford boss me, have you watched that one guy that compares filters, oils, fuels, additives etc…. Fram was clearly built pretty shitty compared to the majority of the competition buuuuut if you’re keeping up on maintenance it doesn’t matter! All I’m saying is, fram is 100% lower quality!
I use rotella T4 or T6 and what ever filter is on sale I change my oil EVERY 3,000 to 3,500 miles. Fuel filters every 10,000 , Tranny Fluids about every 25,000 ... It Works... I have a 1989 Dodge Dakota w/ 296,000 mile , My step son drives our old Toyota Camry w/ unknown mileage because the digital odometer read 399,999 and that was 2 or 3 yrs ago. My winter beater is a 99 Honda CRV w/ 210,000 and our good car is a 2012 Dodge Caravan w/ 164,000... PLUS I have a 06' 5cyl diesel Mercedes/Dodge Sprinter RV w/ 172,000 all 3 dodges are almost rust free , The Honda and Toyota though are RUST BUCKETS and the drive train will last far longer than the Sub frames... NONE of the Vehicles have EVER been Majored w/ only wear parts needing replaced.the dodge caravan has only had the batt , brakes , and tires in 164K mi though she is going to need a starter soon... My stepson is looking for a solid well maintained Toyota or Honda right now that is around 10 yrs old and 100,000 miles if anyone has one for sale in Ohio or western Pa ...Many blessings , SMR
Sample size of 1. I always use oem filters. When I had my wrx those were high quality Tokyo Rokis from Japan. I was out of them and I wanted to change my oil that weekend went to Walmart to buy oil I decided to buy the most expensive Fram that was compatible. I check my oil on every fill up it was like a week after my oil change I pulled the dipstick and noticed I had filter elements in my motor. Immediately did a flush. I know some have great experience and like I said this was just one use but based on my experience they are a no go for me.
Are you certain? I have a hard time believing an XG ultra synthetic would do that. Double layered synthetic media with wire backing. Something else must be going on...
@@klutzycarlover I am certain man. Again sample size of 1 could have just got a bad filter. I did buy the best Fram they had I don't remember the exact model name it was years ago.
@@nyquil07na38 Hmm, I wonder if it was before the Ultra. I would never use any fram before the Ultra came out. Running a Purolator Boss on my 16' STi now.
Always look in the filter regardless of brand. You would be surprised how many new filters have visible surface rust inside. The last time I bought a Wix filter it had a long curly metal shaving in it. That got me to thinking why don't they tap the mounting plate before they assemble the filter?
@@honkie247 Part of the reason for this is there's too much demand to slow down production to improve quality. Part failures are covered by warranties, but failure to produce is rewarded with bankruptcy.
People forget Fram makes a wide range of products. The cheapest Fram filter is no better or worse than the cheapest oil filter of any other brand. Fram also makes the Extra Guard synthetic filters which are priced and built like high quality Wix filters.
Exactly, these people talk shit yet will go to Valvoline instant oil change for the oil changes. Like you think that oil filter they are using is any better than any other cheap oil filter from frame? People are funny creatures
Disagree! Please see my post elsewhere here, on my experience with Fram oil filters. I'm glad you guys have not had issues with Fram - but I did, more than once. RU-vid video verified what happened to mine.
I used to work for a CO in Oklahoma that makes filters of Air... Oil... And. Fuel. For places like the. Military among other things... So LET ME TELL YOU..... What's most important in filter world is FILTER PLEAT AREA!!! Since most company's use pretty much the exact same material to make the actual filtration material. What it boils down to is HOW MUCH FILTER AREA you can fit into the pleats and into the filter casing. Anything beyond that is almost meaningless... Casings are just sheet metal formed and capped. STILL... Most ppl don't think about the WORK that goes into making a metal cartridge style filter. I do though... NOW.
i used to use fram on my old truck but had a pin hole in one of the brand new filters after an oil change so i went back to motorcraft/wix it was fine other then that but still soured me
Stating facts. Those dreadful truths. Anyhow.... I've been running Fram in my stuff for years. Just depends on what I can find. sometimes it might be the regular orange filter sometimes that might be the 4x sometimes it might be the tough guard It just depends. Like it's being said, change your oil on a regular basis, use quality products and you most likely will be fine. I've got several Vehicles I've driven well beyond 250,000 miles so far. No issues.
Add to the list. Y'all do understand fram was bought out years by trico or first brands don't remember (wipers/autolite spark plugs maker/owners) Trico does service your high "dollar" service centers like Firestone . And some cheaper service stores. Off subject but wix are owned by Mann/Hummel. Filtration it's as bad as it was years ago we have came a long way. Trico/first brands Mann/Hummel Champion labs Purolator Are the main names on everything we buy.
Had two different vehicle's go to no oil pressure due to fram filters, with in the the 3000 miles oils change won't ever use them again. If you cut them open you will see how poorly made they are!!!! They are crap!. Never had that happen with any other oil filter, had an off brand one rust out over the summer! I'm 60 years old and do all my own oil changes and maintance on personal, HVACR service rucks and trucks for my snowplowing business! Everything I own is over 200k miles and running fine. AMSOIL is all I use, and I am a dealer!
I put 300,000 miles on a 1994 Ford escort 1.9 using Fram and whatever 5w30 was cheapest. Changed religiously at 5000 miles. Trouble free. Sold it. Within a year I saw the owner and he said it “wasn’t a bad $2,000 car, but it was done”…smoking, running poorly. He hasn’t changed the oil in 15,000 miles. It’s not the filter, it’s the owner/maintenance.
Keep in mind here I am talking about Fram Orange cans. Not the higher end ones - the highest end one is actually a good filter. The issue isn't as so much the fiber end caps, it's a small number of pleats and there have been several that I've personally seen where there was gaps/holes in the filter media so large a rock could get through. It's not doing it's job then. It shows there is poor quality control with the product. It isn't the best quality filter, plain and simple. But you are correct - varnish and sludge can happen no matter the filter.
