Trad Climbing on Doubleissima at The Gunks, NY (One of the best in the Gunks) 

Completely agree.

Huh, I think you may be right.

I wait for it sometimes lol I'm like "what where's the burp"

Absolutely planning to. Rather, I'm planning a series of videos on different types of belay/rap stations in different scenarios. I have one shot already, though I kind of move through it quickly so I'm going to put together a primer to help make sense of it. I have two problems with featuring the belay/rap station building at the end of these videos. The biggest is simply time. This video is only a 1/3 of the whole climb (though by far the the best third) and it's 20 minutes long. It usually takes me 5-10 minutes to build a belay station but I have spent longer because the situation demanded it (or I was just taking my time). Video editing can speed that up but even if I got it down to 5 minutes, and the video was still useful, it's 5 minutes on the end of 20. The other problem is dealing with all the unknowns. Believe it or not, all but I think two videos are on-sight attempts. So it's not uncommon for me to belay from a less ideal spot, miss some obvious piton, or like what happened in this video, end up at the end of a climb without enough gear. No lie, I forgot to grab my cordelete before I set off on this climb and I used up all but one 2 foot sling and a draw by the time I got to the end. Fortunately for me, the end of this climb is flanked by the party ledge and belay ledges of "High-E" and I was able to borrow another climbers cordelete to build something I was comfortable belaying off of. I was at least smart enough to ask for help and I could have used my rope to make something workable but the whole situation was far from ideal.

+FirstPersonBeta That completely makes sense. If you can upload a second video from your beta video every once in a while of you making the belay, that would be insanely helpful to new trad climbers like myself. Your beta videos alone give really good insight to gear placements in certain sitautions. All in all keep up the good work man. Keep making sick sends!

Guess I haven't broken in your 100m rope yet. Definitely Ridiculisma and Enduroman while we're at it.

Oops I spoke too soon, I see you chose the pin after all! Funny. I get it, you were worried about saving gear.

I think that's technically the end of pitch one but almost everyone does it in one to the GT especially because the first 20 ft off the ledge is not easy and may actually be the crux....don't want to fall with so little rope out..and it makes for 130 ft of climbing!!

Especially in the Gunks, where you're rarely if ever climbing a straight line, the added runners drastically reduce the drag in the system. More importantly though, since most of these placements were horizontal, the added runner allows for play that would alternatively pull my placements sideways, walking the cam and potentially compromising the placement.

FirstPersonBeta Oh that makes sense! Thank you

But once you have run out of slings, isn't it better to use just the camp with its carabiner?

@@marchd1997 Once you've run out of slings, you don't really have a choice other than clipping the biner on the cam, while it's better than nothing, it's still not a very great scenario. Speaking from experience, I recommend simply bringing enough slings, bring a couple extra just in case. It's not just while climbing that you'll have to fight the rope drag, but you'll also have to deal with it when you're belaying from the top. Depending on how severe the drag is, this could create a dangerous situation for your second (ie: from the top it feels like you have all the slack pulled out when there's still a huge loop hanging down out of sight). Even having just one piece not properly extended can potentially create some pretty serious resistance with the rope drag.

Was that a 48” runner at the crux? I worry watching these videos sometimes. Climbing one foot above that piece equals 10’ of fall if my math is correct. In my gunks climbing experience 24”s seems to be plenty for all gear but the number 4 on high e. Have you ever wondered if you over extend your gear?

Per your request : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-32pb9mZN8RE.html