Great comparison and demonstration. I disconnected/connected a 1025R loader at my dealer solely from your instruction. My dealer was "impressed". Then I told him TTWT was a good teacher!
Thanks again Tim from a new BX owner! That single point connector does make it easy but if mine continues to have a leaking problem it's all for nothing. You are doing a tremendous and honest job and anyone who is thinking about their first tractor they have you to thank. I may be talking to our buddy at GWT in a couple of years! ;) Thanks again!!
Agree about the JD bucket level indicator. Brilliant! I love analog technology like that. My gas gauge on my Ford 640 was a 14" dowel with Sharpie lines for 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 full. It never failed to give me a good measurement. Same system for my fuel oil tank(s). But that involves a stick with a string loop and a nail in a stud so that it hangs beside a yardstick on the wall beside the tank(s) with a soup-can underneath (to catch the drips). Always reliable. Never gets jammed or befuddled. Use your feet for the release of the JD loader clamps (but then I'm 6'2" and have long legs). This, and the mower deck automatic coupling, impressed me to no end at the JD dealer.
Nice job Tim as always. I am on my second 1025r TLB since 2014. This is first correct loader on and off video I have ever seen. As per first dealer delivery show and tell, I too have used my foot to work the locks,after lifting the front wheels with curl. I have never gone far enough to auto snap the locks back. I knew why I always watch tour videos, you actually know what you are talking about. I wish it was not 9:30 pm and raining outside or I would go outside and give the right way a try. Thank you for the teaching moment.
2 things!! Nice orange hat! AND just wanted to tell you that you can actually put the loader locks in the locked position when you re-attach the loader.. the locks will simply lift up and click into place which is nice because it gives you an indicator when your locks are fully seated. If you do this you will hear 2 distinct clicks when re-attaching the loader.
Single point connector....hope someone from JD is watching this & listening to what owners/potential owners want. That is the only thing i dislike about my 1025r. Love this comparison video series Tim, as always thanks so much for sharing. Have a great day!
And Deere knows all about single point hydraulic connectors as they use them to connect the header to the combine's hydraulic system. You'd think they'd adapt that kind of design throughout all of their equipment where it's applicable. On my equipment, I ended up putting different colored zip ties on all of the hydraulic hoses & connectors so everything is color coded and I don't have to try and remember where the hoses go for the back hoe as opposed to the power rake, etc. I just match the color on the implement connector to the color on the tractor's hydraulic connectors.
A good comparison of the loaders. Thanks. I agree that the single point connector makes it so much easier for the hydraulic lines connection and disconnection.
Great videos, Tim. I've been watching this series and they've led me to purchase a 1025r. On the 2023 model, they've made the hydraulic loader hoses quick disconnect standard which is a nice feature and just like the Kubota now. Thanks again and can't wait to get to work on my 1025r in a couple days
I strongly agree, Tim you are a great, professional guy who produces excellent content video’s and I too especially enjoy all you do. Definitely looking forward to your backhoe comparisons. Even though connecting and disconnecting the hydraulic couplings for the bh is more difficult for me than the single connection for the loader, I find the bh vastly easier to put on or remove than the loader and bucket. You’ve got a really nice family and functioning as a family unit in your video’s is wonderful. Keep up all your great work, God bless all of you and looking forward to your next episode.
Tim, one thing that dawned on me, and I have never heard anyone make the observation - on an skid loader you can pull up to an implement, stand up from the seat of the loader and kick the latch levers into the lock position, sit back down and away you go. This is NOT possible on a tractor, you WILL get off the tractor and walk around to the front of the loader to latch the locks into position. For me this reduces the advantage of SSQA. Thanks for the article! Jim
Brilliant stuff Tim! My only problem is given how good you are at this comparison stuff I’d personally love to see how the MF GC1720 TLB stacks up. A lot of the stuff you have shown is information that you literally can’t find anywhere else unless you had the two tractors side by side and do exactly what you are doing. Keep up the fantastic work!
i love it you change hats when you change hats. yes there is a learning curve to the bx .ive made a mess of my pretty orange tractor, the loader arms crossed over the hood and made a mess of my hood and wiped out my very flimsy brush guard .i`ve replaced most of the stand arms and hammered out the brush guard ..i see quite a few bx owners replace the guard with something more substantial or in my case will fabricate my own. lesson learned.
Nicely done. I have a bucket level indicator on my B2650, but I have never actually used it. I always forget to look at it. The top of the bucket is level with the bottom and I just use that. Or I lean over to one side to see around the bucket to the front edge. BTW, I really enjoy your videos. You do a great job making them, and have good variety of jobs and projects to show.
With regard to the hooks for the loader, when I initially got my tractor my dealer told me to use my foot to kind of kick thee releases up, this works really well and makes the disconnect a lot easier.
I have a bx 1500 and it does all that i need it to do. Although if i had a deere it would do it also moral of this is it doesnt matter what tractor you have as long as you have one 😁. Keep on tractoring on really enjoying your videos.
Just wondering since the bucket on the loader on the BX was a little further out if it would allow you to dump a load a little further in a trailer etc.
Love your channel. You are the only one who states to lift the loader until mast locks snap in place on their own. I have watched many videos (mostly from dealerships) that don't cover that at all.
I keep my tractor in neutral when detaching the loader. This way, instead of the loader and stand sliding forward, the tractor rolls backward slightly. This is important for me as I park my loader with the bucket close to a wall and I don't want it moving forward and hitting the wall. I've never found pressure in the lines to be an issue when disconnecting, but it certainly causes problems when reconnecting.
I agree that pressurized lines are hard to reconnect on my 1025R. Does the Kubota single point connector have enough mechanical leverage to overcome pressurized lines?
Great series, anyone planning on a subcompact should take the time to view this series. I just found the channel and started the series. I have learned a lot. I owned a Kubota and JD. The JD was a 1026R, I sold my Kubota the buy the JD. Last year I traded the 1026R for a 2038R. My 1026R did not have a loader, but I liked the JD much better than the Kubota so I went with JD again. My 2038R has a loader and the JD version of the Hydro Quick Connect. I like it better than the Kubota in your video. I don't see why that option is not available on the 1025R.
Thanks for the loader tips on the Deere. New owner of a 2025r here. On mine the loader cannot move until the pawls lock down when taking it off. Not enough length on the hoses. Does not seem to matter. The tip about putting them down before I put the loader back on though is a huge help. I cannot reach the pawls from the seat. The loader is a little further forward on the 2025r with the extra length. Also the tip about using the steering to move the loader slightly left or right when putting it on. Huge help! Thanks.
Use the curl to unhook the Kubota loader, not the lift cilinder..... so the singel connector is in reach and the stands have less weight to handle.. They Kubota fel don't slide over the concrete..
Another small advantage of the Kubota loader stand design is that the stand does not get in the way of a front weight bracket. It appears that you could leave such a bracket installed when the loader is attached, but I must remove mine from my 1025R when I attached the loader.
Great Video as always Tim. Yes, would love to see the curl test with these two competitors. These comparisons between the two tractors are the most in depth I have seen to date. Hopefully GWT will allow you to keep the Kubota long enough to compare each of every feature on both competitors. For me, I am still looking at buying the JD 2025r next spring. Being recently, semi-retired, I need something to do as you are. Being able to help others out with a tractor and make a little bit of money in the process as well as doing things for myself as needed is a no brainer. To me, as you said in a previous video, the 2025r seems to have a longer wheelbase and feels more stable, but also the frame and front axle is a little more beefier than the 1025r, which I am hoping means it will last longer before wearing out and has less likely chance of bending the stronger or larger axle if a large load if on the loader or forks. Maybe you can compare the two (1025r v 2025r) with what stands out to you as the differences and the thoughts for the extra roughly $2000 price increase from the 1025r and the 2025r.
I sure appreciate all the work you've put into these videos. I am in the market for a small tractor and had been going back and forth as to whether green or orange fit my needs best. I feel well informed now, much appreciated, well done! And thanks to Good Works Tractors for loaning the BX.
I knew it! Remember when we were at the tractor show a few years ago and we looked at the new 2038R and the Kubota? I could tell then that the orange didn't use as thick of steel as the green, just by the feel. Thank you! I feel better now. LOL!!
That's ABSOLUTELY irrelevant on it's own. Common steel grade in ISO is S235 (with 235 MPa yield strength), loaded agricultural parts are often made of S355 (50% stronger), but grades up to 700 (!) MPaare not exception. Obviously stronger steel costs more, it takes a bit of brain to figure out best options. The 2nd point to look would be the design - Kubota is using more elaborate design with a variable section, which basically follows momentum load along the section. It's stronger where it needs and weaker where extra steel would be just a dead weight. There are more details such as the type of section and type of it's production process (rolling, welding,...). So measuring doesn't really says anything. To exagerrate it, 1mm steel is gonna be way more stronger than 10mm of paper.
I would love to have a quick connect hydro block on my 1025R. The best loader un attach / attach was on my JD 770.Hands down,it puts a whuppin' on their new system. I see it as a case of a completely unneeded change in design.To John Deere: if it ain't broke,and works great,don't change it for the sake of change. @ Tim,thanks for the comparison. Back in the late 90's my friend bought himself some property for his new family homestead. He also bought a new kubota 30+ hp tractor/loader combo. With my smaller 770, I consistently out worked his bigger kubota at least two to one. He was hot under the collar about that,so we swapped. With him on my 770,the results were the same. The 770 out worked the larger more powerful kubota about two to one. Are there things I don't like about the 1025r? You bet there is,but over all,I prefer JD green. Have a blessed day.
Tim (and all tractor lovers). I went to test drive a 2025R a couple weeks ago. I was told that the sales manager had just been to a John Deere "meeting" and that the same "single point" hydraulic connection that is currently offered on the larger 2R series is going to be available in ALL "R" series tractors very soon (including the 1025R and 2025R). Might be good for me that I'm waiting until spring to buy a tractor!
I’ve enjoyed the comparison between the Deere an kobotta tractors how ever... I have a mahindra for a few good reasons. First of all I do not make a living with my tractor so hooking up buckets ect in a fast manor dose not alpply to be. I like the fact that yes, I have to get off of my tractor, pull pins to drop my loader stand, manually select what adjustment to set my stand and then go back and pull both mast pins then get on the tractor lower the bucket to get the masts out of the holders then discount the hydraulic hoses then do all the above in reverse. Seems like a lot of steps and I agree that to some folks that would be a problem. But the point here I’m trying to make is I have a problem with a lot of equipment that is (quote in quote) automatic. I just think that some of the (Automatic) features look great in the beginning but what happens with wear and tear. Some of y’all might think I’m crazy but in my opinion if I have to get off of my tractor to install its equipment then it’s going to force me to inspect my tractor to insure that I’ve installed that equipment properly and safely. The point that I’m trying to make here is we as consumers who buy these tractors should by them to suit their needs and lifestyles. My opinion is you couldn’t give m a John Deere because it’s plastic. Me and plastic don’t get along. You also couldn’t give me a tractor with hydrostatic drive... I don’t like them. Here again different strokes for different folks.. keep up the good work Tim
Ok, I guess I can summarize your comment as follows: "My tractor is better because the loader is harder to take off. My tractor is better because I have to shift gears each time to change direction (or speed) of travel". I'll not even try to debate that Robert because it seems absurd to me. However, I DO very much appreciate you watching, and appreciate your comments!
Yes JD needs to get that single point loader attachment, I have to fight with it every time. ? if the Kubota didn't have the skid steer bucket attachment how much more would it be able to lift, correct me if I'm wrong but I seem to recall that the option added about 200 lbs to that bucket.
The subcompact version of the skid steer bucket setup is not built like a normal skid steer setup! A skid steer is more robust design overall. It's overall design fits the purpose of a subcompact tractor
Good job. Don't worry about the immature kids who get mad when you don't say their toy is superior in every way. Just tell them to grow up. I have used the Kubota, but my next will be a used 1025r Deere. I would have got another Kubota BX23r if a used one of those came up first. Who cares what brand we own or if another has some better features. We should just be thankful for the awesome machines we get to use.
Good comparison. I do see one disadvantage of the Deere parking stand that may or may not be an issue for some. That being when the loader is hooked onto the tractor, the parking stand bar would have visual scuff and scratch marks showing quite prominently when looking at the front of the tractor. Nothing a slit piece of rubber hose or box liner spray paint wouldn't remedy however. Keep up the good work Tim!
Great episode on the loaders Tim. It's great how un-biased you are while you compare these 2 highly competitive tractors. As much as I do like the the one point connection on the kubota, one thing I did notice that was left out that is a huge deal to me is that with the Deere it uses standard hydraulic couplings that can run other implements such as a log splitter or hydraulic height control on a pull type implement. Yes you can customize the kubota to make it happen but it's much more difficult and more money. The Deere has that versatility right out the door. Thanks for all the great content. I have used a lot of your info with my 1025 TLB.
That bucket level indicator on the JD is an absolute deal maker for me. My primary use of my 1023E is snowplowing condo complexes with the loader and I cant even imagine not knowing the position of the bucket. While most of the driveways are plowed with a level bucket using the float position on the hills I use the bucket angled down slightly to get the best scraping ability I can. Works great on the ice and most times even negates the need for sanding. Getting up close to the buildings/garages etc the bucket is then angled down more to allow for back dragging like a snow blade...which again is all determined by the bucket indicator for me. The JD indicator also works perfect in order to see it from the Original cab co. cab I put on it. In fairness to the BX however..someone down below did mention there is an add on kit for that. If you get a chance it would be interesting to hear more about that as this could be a very big deal for a BX buyer IMO. Overall I think your series on this issue has been outstanding. I have to give the win to JD for 3 things mainly.... the foot pedals for fwd/reverse on the JD vs. the rocker. The bucket indicator which is a must have....and...I think the extra width of the JD is very important for safety. For me also the length issue is a big deal as I cant even put on a ballast box due to limited storage room in my garage. The WIN= JD (although I have to then give it to the 1023E vs the 1025R for the cost savings). :)
Tim, I find curl capacity to be of similar importance to lift capacity. I found, on my old BX, the curl capacity was lacking and when I was into a heavy pile of dirt I sometimes had a difficult time breaking it out. I no longer have this issue with my new B2601 which had dual curl cylinders.
You mentioned in a previous video that the bx was leaking hydraulic fluid on the right side by the foot pedals. It is probably coming from the swiftach. I have a bx23s with that has had a warranty replacement of that manifold, so the leak is probably from that. Btw, it still leaks a little bit.
Thanks Tim for another great Video. I do believe the 1025R has the better of the two park stands. The park stand on the Deere loader supports the boom sections in the air and distributes the weight more evenly. Where the Kubota loader park stands would probably sink into softer soils if removed anywhere other than a paved surface. This due to the amount of weight hanging to the rear of the park stand pushing down on the rear of the stand foot pads. Thanks again. FYI I have found several manufacturers if a multi-port hydraulic connector. Just waiting on their reply’s to my inquiry.
Another great video I have a 1025r and dident know about letting the levers click back in when you take the loader off glad i watched. Also john deere makes a similar single point connector not sure if its avalible on sub compact though.
To me these videos clearly show how much better the Deere is. The Kubota is a one trick pony with the single point connection. With that said my neighbor swears by his Kubota. So to each their own. I am happy we have great options to choose from. Enjoy your Kubota!
Reverse flow cooling, a steel one-piece hood and a better mowing deck sold me on orange. The ROPS, over abundance of safety switches and plastic hood on the green pushed me towards orange. The green IS a better tractor but the orange is a better mower. I cheated and bumped the hydro pressure on my BX so it has 200# more lift.
Can you mow in reverse on the BX? You can on the JD, but you have to lift the PTO engagement knob. With the shorter turning radius of the JD I'd argue that it's a better mower.
You can have the safety switches bypassed before the delivery truck is back to the hard road. The ability to bump my hydro forward or back with my hand while standing next to the tractor is very convenient when pulling shrubs, repositioning the backhoe, etc.
I’ve watched a few of your videos and they are great. As a Kubota fan you make compelling points for Green. At times distraction occurs with Features like size or mass of metal, etc. ... I’d say the engineering works or it doesn’t to deliver benefit. I’m laughing at myself because green appears to be the way to go ... but I wouldn’t give up my Kubota bx2680. Thanks Tim.
Perhaps I should have explained just a bit more. We have heard of many more loader booms bent on Kubota BX machines than on Deere machines. Even though the loader won't lift as much, the tractor can push as hard...and can get the loader into a bind. Once bent, the loader boom cannot usually be straightened.
Your doing such a great job with side by sides I’d avoid chasing rumors ... if that were to happen my guess is Kubota would make good even though it was most likely operator error. By the way super impressed how skillfully you put the loader back on. It’s easy but for someone that doesnt do it a lot you have skill.
love the info thanks. got my first tractor at 52. i got a sa324 yanmar cause it was a 2017 with backhoe at half new price. thanks 4 the vids. how does it stack up?its 24hp
Tim, I just bought a 1025r a year ago and would love a video on how to take the new 260B Backhoe off properly my dealer never showed me the proper way thanks!
Another good comparison. All tractors have their good and bad points. Just a matter of whom the dealer is and how they take care of you. Oh, of course the price has a large part to play also.
Great comparison. I have owned two BX's (BX24 & BX2660) and love them both. I know own a JD 1023E which I love. When using the BX loader it seems like it is easier to tip over than the JD. I think it might maybe because the loader is father out away from the tractor. It also seem that the BX is quicker to spin the tires.
Nice review. Does the deere have the bobcat style levers to attach and detach the bucket like Kubota does? Also are those redwing Pecos slip ons you are wearing? I love my redwing pecos.
No, Deere uses JDQA. You can see it up close, and get a good description of why it is used here: tractortimewithtim.com/2019/01/27/skid-steer-quick-attach-vs-jdqa/ No, I wear Ariat boots.
Kubota B-series would actually be a better comparison to the 1025 but it's also a slightly bigger michine. Not by much, but still a little bigger. The B also allows a guy to do more "tractor things" than the BX. But, what are the BX's made for? Mostly suburban homeowners with large yards and long driveways to plow in winter...guys that use it primarily for mowing and want more capability than the large belt-driven garden tractors. If you own 3-5 acres and need to use the loader often, need a backhoe, rear PTO implements, etc. that's when the 1025 and B-series really shine. But you guys really did a great job on these reviews. I'm a Kubota owner because it fits my needs better and it was considerably cheaper than the Deere. And boy, it really does the job. I've got an 1870 and even with a tiny tractor like that I never run out of power. I lose traction before I run out of power. But like you say, you really can't go wrong with either one.
Before reconnecting the hyd lines, I squirt some starting fluid around to make sure everything is clean. The deere's rubber plugs seem to grow legs at times. Yeppers it's all a manner of choice, I prefer the good ole JD tractors, but will agree the Kubota is a good tractor also. Good vid TTWT...
@@travelinthru9519 You mean like the crappy pioneer couplers that leak fluid all over the floor with each one you disconnect? Doesn't matter what I do, I can't prevent my 1026R's couplers from leaking nearly a cup of fluid between the 4 of them, just from unhooking those antiquated pioneer couplers. I love my Deere, but they seriously need to update the couplers to flat-faced (FFCs). Would also be nice if they angled the hook-up under the deck or put them up more like Kubota's rather than using bent metal hydraulic lines on the FEL side that make it impossible to hook them up if the line twists even a tiny bit. I haven't seen either of these problems on my dad's BX 2380.
All advice is great ...great test...but the use of the bucket to load it is wrong....to load the bucket you don't stab the pile at the bottom you shave the pile continuously curling the bucket for many reasons but its easier on the pins...loader...tractor ...but it's easier in the sense that as the bucket fills it gets heavier...with the bucket continuing to in essence shortening to lift an ever filling bucket
As much as I like that single point connection on the BX, there are far to many advantages to the Deere. I’ve got over 300 hours on my 2013 1025R and I would only trade it for a bigger machine, but for its size it hard to beat in its abilities. Thanks for the great video series Tim!
Tim I'm going to by a 40 hp bobcat utility tractor. You need to go look at these new tractors bobcat is now making. And show us the features. Thanks TIM
Hey Tim, for comparison, I'd love to know the distance from the bucket lip to the loader/mast pivot point. Measuring to the front wheels might be a good measure of C.G. differences if the loader arms are the same. - Just curious!
Do you think you’ll ever revisit the series with the newer model years? I know there have been a few changes on the 1025R and at least a brush guard changed on the Kubota. I am in the market for a subcompact tractor now and I feel as though, the addition of John Deere, adding the single point connector on their loaders and upgrading to LED headlights really broadens the gap between the two machines. I do, however, think that the BX is still a viable option at its price. Even with a long video series as in-depth as what you put out, it’s still a very difficult decision.
Another great video! I do have concerns with the results you're getting out of this BX. It doesn't seem like it was treated very well at all by it's previous owner. I also have a BX2680, I've never taken the time to check pressure or check what it can absolutely lift. However we use it on a small horse farm and move 4x4 round bails, can easily stack 20-30 at a time to full height. Lift a 55gal drum of diesel in and out of a 1ton truck. Just not sure we are seeing typical results here with the loader specifically. At any rate it's still great to see the differences these two particular machines have.
For sure, I'm not doubting your work! Just really surprised to see the low results on the loader, just hasn't been our experience. Thanks for the video! We are in the market for another tractor, been eyeing the green line too.... Who knows!
High Tim, your videos have been very helpful to me. I currently have a Kubota bx 2380 on order along with loader and landpride reverse tine tiller . Price is $15500. Recently I came across a 2018 Deere 1025R with quick hitch and loader with on 30 hours on machine and shipping plastic still on the seat. I can buy this for $14250, then I need to buy a tiller. There is some power train warranty left on the deere, but no bumper to bumper. Which do you recoment I buy ? Your opinion really means a lot to me, Thanks Rick Myers
Something to note regarding the BX; the loader must be removed on a FLAT surface; the lack of stand at the back means there is nothing to "balance it out" at the back. Remove the loader where the ground isn't flat and you may need the dealer's help getting it back on. Speaking from experience...
You are not supposed to use the loader stand to lift the front end up to disconnect the rear latches, the bucket is used for this , improper loader removal caused the stand to bend , I remove mine all the time and have had no issues and have over 200hrs on it , good job with the comparison Tim , should have gotten a 23S , could have compared backhoes . Both great units 👍
Hey Tim. Another great comparison. Is the level indicator on the JD standard? It’s not on the BX, but I got it for $40 added on and it works exactly like the Deere’s. The dealer laughed at the sad attempt at a level indicator sticker and adds on the level rod by default unless a buyer specifically doesn’t want it.
Yes, standard on 1025r. I didn’t realize it was such an inexpensive option on the bx until someone else mentioned in the comments. ...otherwise I would not have made such a big deal of it.
