Another great example of a teaching video. I have a laser for doing lettering but you may have given me the itch to try letter stamps. Just used your dye, balm and tragacanth sealer. My first piece came out really nicely.
Chuck, Love your videos ! Please keep them coming. Suggestion - Try beveling around the letters and then using a background tool. Totally changes the look.
My wife has a scan and cut and we have found it to be incredibly helpful. We can stamp the lettering on a piece of paper, scan them in cut them out and lay it on the belt as that is all we have used them for so far and get a perfect line everytime . It's been very useful as we are only about six months into leather working.
Your videos are so helpful! I have been making leather journals for a while but am now experimenting with new techniques and ideas. After struggling with snaps and finally mastering them after watching your clear, to the point video, I had to subscribe. Glad I did. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thank You, I needed this. Been having trouble getting consistency. I have been using paper tape as my straight edge/guide across the leather. Fixing a steel ruler or something similar to what you have used to butt up to will help a lot.
Thanks, Chuck! I bought a cheap set like that, trying to save money. Just before Christmas, I had to pitch a belt I was making into the bin because the letters were all wonky. It was a waste of time and money. I could try to sand the edges, but that would be a waste of time too. I'll be ordering some good letter stamps soon.
Hi Chuck, OLD LEATHER SMITH here, I use a 3 corner ruler, remember those? When I got started a looooong time ago I made some buckshot weights that is what I use 2 hold the ruler from moving, just an idea, I also like the BIGGER and HEAVIER stamp driver 4 me it works great, well enough said, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Great tips and suggestions! I've struggled with leather stamps (the letters and numbers especially) and you've given me some excellent options. First thing I need to do is ditch the inferior tools I have been trying to use and grab some Weaver stamps. ;)
I checked my animal stamps a friend got me for Christmas and saw how much play there was between the two parts.😬 But now I know what to look for with any sets I get in the future.
Even that tiny arrow (or letter) to indicate the orientation of the stamp can be missed. I take a Sharpie and mark that side of the stamps so that I can immediately see the correct orientation without having to use a magnifying glass.
Loved your video!! Could you please inform me if this letter stamp set would work on faux leather? I want to stamp on the right side of the fabric(coloured side). Your stamp set seems perfect! Loved the use of ruler and tape.
I know right where you are coming from!! The tandy tools are cheap junk and way over prices for what you get. I had to go through all of my stamps and sand the edges clean, it took me hours to get them where they would line up the way they are supposed to.
I find myself using letters and numbers mostly on an arc. I would suggest a Leather Element on how to do this correctly. I never get it to look right no how much practice leather I use up trying.
CHUCK might be nice to center the U then go to both sides. Also, Nubs on stamps may be harder to see for us with grey hair but a small touch with permanent black marker will fix it quick.
the letter stamps, you also mentioned there is an arrow that can be used to maintain the proper orientation. Would it not also make sense to also drop a dot of nail polish at the bottom (or top) of each stamp? (Stronger visual cue)
Thanks Chuck but the problem I have is that I think the letters are too far apart. When something like a 'W' comes after (for example) an 'A' the gap looks even bigger. I think the term here is 'Kerning'. I've never found a successful way of getting the spacing right even though I've filed away the edges as much as possible. Any ideas anyone?
@@maddawgnoll Yep, there's money to be made coming up with a system where each stamp has 3 (for example) registration points so that the user can easily choose the spacing.
I'm words without action. Maybe Weaver will do it and send me a free set or 2. Another idea I mentioned to somebody else is to put small registration marks on the stamp so you would know how to shorten the distance top and bottom. That said, maybe I'll get some leather tags made up and rivet them on.
Nice points to be aware of. Thank you. Any idea how to stabilize leather? Flat edge no problem with another piece of bar stock, curved... open for suggestions.
The "K" looks quite a bit lower than the rest of the letters even though it was placed on the straight edge. That tells me that the Weaver letter set may not be that much better. If the actual letters are not perfectly oriented within the stamp block then the straight edge doesn't do much good. I've learned to lightly tap the stamp and check its orientation to see if it needs to be moved a little before smacking it and that doesn't always work perfectly either. I was hoping that the weaver set was indeed a precision stamp set..if so I would gladly purchase . Could you do a little more work with the straightedge to verify the letter placement?
From what i can see, he started going off the rail at the second C. So I'm willing to bet that the bar stock wasn't as straight as chuck thinks it is. I work in a hardware store and i can tell you this, Bar stock is great for adding rigidity to a project; but absolutely crap at being completely straight. If i was going to do something like this, i'd be using a ruler with mm markings from the edge of my piece to get an exact straight line set up and verify after each punch. Sure it's more time consuming, but time in means quality work.
The bar shifted, the problem with using a straight edge is that if you dont hit the stamp dead nuts straight down, and instead slightly toward the straight edge, you can shift it back ~1-2mm without even noticing because it happens so fast during the strike.
@@maddawgnoll OLD LEATHER SMITH here, it is my signature stitch, what I like about it is I even lace with it, if you think it looks good with thread try with lace, I make hand bags 4 charity auctions then the stitch really shows off, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, I forget something, on all my stamp sets I marked the proper side with a ORANGE marker so this OLD MAN could C it, NO MISTAKES ANYMORE, GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
You can either fade the stamps or create an oval or round shape around the letters and use a camouflage tool. See if this video helps! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FG3dzXMK-tE.html
Hey Chuck I was wondering how to avoid haveing creaky and/or squeaky leather, and what are some things I can do to fix this problem once it has occurred?
You could refine your set up by using a metal ruler instead of the barstock to help with consistent spacings. Or add marks/ paper tape with inches/cm to the bar stock. Or put a grid on your underneath surface and move your bar/ ruler so it lines up nicely at both sides
Hey Chuck Just wondering if you could help me with a problem. I recently purchased a whole side of calf veg tan. I have purchased it before and found it good for what I use it for. Unfortunately this piece is very spongy, I'm having trouble even beveling the edges, burnishing is quite difficult and I'm not getting a good enough finnish. Tooling I think is a complete write off, Any suggestions would be much appreciated
Hi I just watched you water based vs pro dye. I mostly use water based dye (eco-flo) never used pro or oil based. I noticed that my water based dye makes my leather stiff. But oil and pro dye(don't know the differencebetween the two) from what I noticed the leather is still pretty soft and floppy. Why is that? If you or someone can let me know why it does that. Why the consistency in the leather changes, thank you. Its just for my own knowledge and I'm thinking of switching over to try oil based.
Hi Skye! It depends a little bit on the type of bracelets you're going to be making. You can go anywhere from 3/4 oz. for smaller bracelets like wraps or mystery braids and the 4/5 oz. to 5/6 oz. for cuffs. If you're going t be tooling and stamping we would go with natural veg tan. We've got single shoulders and 12" x 24" panels if you would prefer to start with a smaller piece of leather at first. Panels: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/13100-35-12-18/hermann-oak-veg-tan-strap/pr_56565 Single Shoulders: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/11-1202ss-3-4/veg-tanned-single-shoulders/pr_62495
Because I’m so OCD regarding spacing, alignment, etc of my letter stamps, i just go whole hog and make them all crooked on purpose! No weights, rulers, or anything needed! 😂
I agree with Art, but I nail polish the entire back of the letter stamp (where arrow is and up the tube of the socket) to help me better see the correct orientation of the stamp face. Screwing up just one project will easily pay for a bottle of UGLY nail polish and your time. I did, five sets one evening after ruining a project!
You can also have custom plastic stamps 3D printed for special projects without breaking the bank whether you order them or get into 3D printing yourself!