The Rise and Rise of Dior 

I dont really understand why she is so disliked really, I think he is a very talented designer, I dont get why so many people arent a fan 🤷🏼‍♂️ I agree that raf and galliano at design were incredible, galliano was a true couturist while raf really understood how to modernise the classic motifs of the brand, cant wait to see where they go from here

@@understitchYT I mean she just makes old lady clothes, it's boring. Which sells haha, but if you're enthusiastic about the art of design she's not really who I'd look for. And I feel like I've tried with her.

@@jamesscalise4990 Oh really? I always thought of it as just a vision of women that wanted to express femininity in a way thats not overtly sexual. Like Taylor Swift's early days but less country (does this make sense?)

@@understitchYT To me, Valentino is also doing that in a way that's a lot more boundary-pushing and smart. Still super romantic but not in a bland way

​@@jamesscalise4990 I still see Valentino as more male gaze, its very floaty and feminine instead of overtly sexual, but theres something about it that reads like it's not from a womens pov, even though I know a lot of that DNA also came from Maria Grazia (and I really do love Pierre Paulo)

He really was an absolute genius

Literally over 50 or 60% of the comments I have on my Chanel videos about how the quality has dropped. It’s definitely not a Dior exclusive, Prada is having complaints, Gucci have had complaints. The only brand that I have not heard quality control complaints from is bottega Venetta 🤷

Thank you so much, I’m so glad that you enjoyed the videos, by the time the next video is out, I think it will be mid fashion week, as in two weeks time, so hopefully there will be videos on some exciting brands

Idk Dior is one of the most talked about, esp with the resurrection of their monogram and with their new bags going hugely viral

Thats such a kind thing to readc thank you so much and Im so glad to be of help to you and your studies 😇 where are you studying? (Like what city)

He truly was, what an awful end though

Was the Golden Edge of Dior!

@@understitchYT watch the video. galleano was drunk & intentionally mocked & goaded into his sloppy rant by the zealous & overly eager "victim" who thoroughly enjoyed every single moment of galleano's downfall. she created this train wreck & adored what she had done. truly unkind. truly monstrous. galleano is the only designer who both understood & deserved dior. galleano is joy & beauty. grazia is nothing.

@@mignoncat1 she was the prototypical social justice warrior - her ego was fed by bringing down people she perceived as undeservedly powerful with the use of identity politics. How striking it was that it occured at around the time social media was really blowing up on a global scale and giving such people a voice.

Tysm. im so glad you enjoyed the video 💖

He has his own label so he is very much on my list

@@k0bb ha the best are usually "mentally unstable in some way" I am a fine artist and Picasso, Bacon, and Basquiat all had their obvious demons but still absolute cream of the crop not making excuse just seems to be something that's built into the DNA of maverick level creatives for better or worse *coughs* Kanye

@@k0bb There is no plea these people absolutely are who the are and it is what is

@@k0bb true

Shes definitely not an extreme designer for sure, not as crazy as many other top designers, but I think she does well for her client, even if her client isnt myself. Saying that I don't think she is as unmemorable as Virginie is

@@understitchYT The difference is that Maria Grazia has a background, which is Valentino, where she did a good job in general (even though she shared the creative direction of the house with Pier Paolo). Virginie's case is different, although she did her job well as director of the Chanel workshops, her work as a designer is downright mediocre. Probably the perception that we all have of Maria Grazia, as "super basic/boring/ugly", is because compared to what previous Dior designers did, hers seem to be designs that anyone else who has a fashion (design) background could do. But if we forget that it is the house of Dior, we would probably "accept" his work in a better way. Finally, about Chanel, I would like Natacha Ramsay-Levi like crative director, I really like her work in Chloé, and I would like to see what he could do with the budget and possibilities that a big house like Chanel has.

@@jzz6342 I really agree, Chanel is so creatively disinteresting and has been for a while really. I'd be happy with Natacha, it's definitely be along the same lines but refreshed. Or I really would kill to see Craig Green there and reinvent the quilting aspect of the design, which is something Coco brought to the brand many decades ago, butcould be expanded on to modernise the brand I think

@@understitchYT Bertrand Guyon (ex Schiaparelli) would be other good option for Chanel, I like his work in Schiaparelli. I miss the Karl Lagerfeld shows. Even in those collections where the designs were not the most interesting, the whole performance (set design, background music, etc.) elevated the experience. But even Karl's "lazier" collections are better than Virginie's in my opinion.

@@jzz6342 Yeah for sure, he really reinvented Chanel back in the 80s and kept it up for a few decades before the clothes got tiring, but as that happened the sets got phenomenally big to offset it. It was a clever way to keep the product that sells while getting the press that a show provides

Oh that’s so interesting, I love reading, I will definitely try to pick this up

I really agree, Raf era Dior was so clean, but I can understand why that didnt fit with their mostly maximalist, mostly feminine leaning customer and why he got the criticism he did. But if you take it for what it is, its extremely impressive as an interpretation

Thanks for watching

Thank you so much! Youre right Dior has changed so much to get where it is, and ut still keeps the house codes which I find so interesting

Thank you so much! Thats such a kind compliment, I get so self conscious about my voice 😅

Feminism is just equity. Its inclusive of the right to choose everything onesself. If you like it and you chose it freely, its feminism

I tried to leave everyone’s watermark on, so you can find it, but I really heavily recommend FashionTV or FTV on RU-vid

I’m so far behind on editing and scripting, where I should be, but Schiaparelli is on my original list for the upcoming few weeks, whether we will get to see it during fashion week, or after, is up to pure time at this point because when I tell you I have not stopped in MONTHS Im not kidding 🤣😂

@@understitchYT omg hi! Take your time, I will be front and centre whenever your Schiaparelli one comes out haha. I love your approach to these videos - credit where it’s due, dragging when it’s necessary 😭😂 looking forward to your future video drops x

Im so glad you like them! And thank you for commenting again, I really appreciate it 🥰

They make such beautiful things

FASH-UNDAY

I don’t think so, she’s very simple, but at least it is her interpretation of the original codes of the house, she doesn’t feel the need to show excess to get her vision across

That’s so funny, I really enjoy Sarah, and I enjoy Maria, I think they both bring their own perspective to their brands, I wasn’t keen on either at first, but they grew on me

@understitch, their own brand is so far off base that sometimes it seems almost disrespectful to Christian and Lee. I don't want minor references sprinkled here and there for labels like that. Give me fantasty. I will say Sarah Burtons menswear for McQueen is breathtaking. But everything MGC has designed for the most part has been garbage. The only collections that were like "okay" were resort 2023, spring 2021 couture, fall 2020 couture, spring 2018 couture, and spring 2017 couture. She's done 39 collections so far. And 5/39 is definitely not a passing grade in my book.

It really was so spectacular

Thats fair, fashion aesthetically is objective 🥰

i don't care what anyone said, spring 2012 was one of Dior's best couture collection

Especially after the fashion world moved mountains to make him successful in the first place

it seems a lot of people do

Youre about to be very happy come couture week 🤌

Same with Fendi, they both have much stronger mens, although I actually really enjoy MGCs Dior, I know it’s not for everyone

From a design standpoint, he is such a talented designer for sure, his point of view is so unique and captivating while being so technically innovatove

Hes very talented

Thats great, Im so glad to hear Kpop brought you to me 💕💕

I was actually so impressed with the menswear show, it was surprisingly really well done

Creative and commercial don’t tend to be easily done simultaneously, it really does take a true genius to do that

Thats such a shame!

Kim is insane you can see the craftmanship in the cuts as soon as you look

He really is very talented, Im glad he has managed to transfer that to Dior, I think its more successful than his work at Louis. But I cant put my finger on why that is? Maybe the lighter colour palette, maybe his design is more matured now, maybe its the team around him??

@@understitchYT very good question compared to other extremely talented designers it's almost like you can feel something else coming off and through the clothes that I don't have an explanation for similar to Marine in that way

@@KaTheMagician Back in the vuitton days I would've disagreed because it was so hit and miss for me, but these days he seems to be really doing a great job and it looks like his design style really matches what they were looking for - actually to me it looks like a great extension of the work Kris was doing, which I. appreciate because I always loved his work

It was absolutely beautiful, and I remember enjoying it at the time, but in retrospect, I don’t think it would fly today

I never really understood why she was so widely disliked (though ofc everyone is entitled to their opinion), I think she is good for dior, and I think she speaks to, their female demographic really well,

I honestly think its a male vs female gaze thing. I see male gaze femininity like in Valentino (love) and female gaze femininity in Dior - both totally valid points of view ofc, but its something we rarely get to see in high high fashion so it’s exciting to me

Raf’s work was vefore its time, it just was not appreciated enough at all and its such a shame, I can only imagine how hard that mustve been on him to have bad reviews in a row despite his really innovative collections. I agree that MGC would be great at Fendi definitley, but I do enjoy her Dior, it definitely fills that gap that we have at the moment, and somehow shes managed to make buzz (both good and bad) around really quite simple clothes. I can see why she is so successful definitely. Though, someone else commented that she wouldnt be as impactful at a less famous label and i think that they had a point too. Its the brands history and her context within it that I find interesting

@@understitchYT did you happen to see the DIOR: Designer of Dreams show? Several of MCG's creations were on display, the simplest pieces in the show. Overall, it was really wonderful to see these clothes up close, and also the 'Toiles' , which were in themselves works of art. So much of what bills itself as Couture today is simply overpriced RTW! That's fine. Just call it what it is.

@@sigisings I didnt see it and I really want to, Id love to see the toiles in person, I find their process so fascinating

@@understitchYT It really is. The Fashion Institute of Technology Museum then presented an exhibition of DIOR and BALENCIAGA, with side by side comparisons by the original designers through Galliano and Nicolas Ghesquiere. A fascinating show!

@@sigisings Im sure I can catch pictures online if I dont get to go because it sounds so COLLDDDD

I have to!

It’s a great documentary, fs

In my head I read this as Machine Gun Kelly and was very confused 💀💀

Youre very much right, its interesting how perspectives can change on stuff in the past, what once was seen as fine can become controversial and then be totally fine again. Its all about how something is labelled and perceived, something which often these brands have no control over. I think if I was to remake this video today, I would make more of a point about that, just because this period was all about the shock factor and selling little clothes on purpose. im glad you lked the video and thank you for your perspective

Im so glad you enjoyed it! I think Jimin fots in fairly well with Kims vision too 🥰

Its so upsetting to look back on it now and realise that the world just wasnt ready

Have you been in store? The womens makes so much more swnse in store

I think he is really interesting too. I dont have a series designated to designers yet, but I definitely have that in the pocket for the future

💃🏼

HBA is on my dhortterm list (as in I want to do it soon) but Im actually really behind for getting ready for fshion week that Im worried I may have to skip a week of upload and if I do I think it might have to be hood by air 😰

Oh, I second this! Been fascinated by HBA since high school. 😂

@@sarahb7933 you'll be excited by the video Im scripting now 🤫

@@understitchYT Danggg, let me turn that notifications bell on real quick! Haha. I appreciate your work!

@@sarahb7933 that's two votes I love the amount of time and research @understitch puts into each designer feels like taking and elective at CSM, Parsons, Bunka or Antrewp lol

Youre totally right that theres not a lot of complaint about that sort of thing from Asia (I lived in Korea for 7 years, so I know this from first hand experience). However, the second generation in the west is still sensitive towards this, especially things like the sexualisation of asian cultures. So, youre right that its not offensive to all, but its still has received retrospective critique because of its tokenism

although I unfortunately am aware most people would disagree with my opinion! Hope none of you have ever worn a Kaftan!!! You bad cultural appropriators!!! LMFAO

Cultural appropriation at the moment is having another wave of critique, people are saying that it is gatekeeping creation, I think it’s an interesting take, I’m glad that I have watched several TikTok‘s on it to understand some opinions, because it really made me think

@@understitchYT you made such awesome videos (i’m binging them atm!) but yeah, the bit about cultural appropriation is too simplistic. I don’t think Galliano set out to riddicule those cultures he celebrated on his designs, despite his other dodgy behaviors. I would be proud to see my culture shown off in the global stage like that.

That is the Korean way with sponsorships. Unfortunately, they do so many that it comes across as quite inauthentic to westerners, but its very normalised in korea

The menswear market in the west is simply too small for them to cater the range to the western clientele. Nearly every brand at this size produces menswear for the asian market where a much higher percentage of the male demographic actively buys luxury goods. What youre saying is feminine, gay coded or streetwear is largely based on what those brands think their asian customer will like. If you're not into it, why not stick to brands that more directly target you?

@@understitchYT I can’t find any brands that target towards me. That’s the problem

I would like to do a whole video on Dior Homme/Mens tbh

@@understitchYT can't wait

Im so glad you enjoyed it :)

@@understitchYT I enjoy all your videos they are so well researched , produced and relevant .

@@justme-fe2sf thats so kind, thank you so much :)

Oh wow

People are often vitriolic to work they dont understand, if the comments under the videos are frustrating, I recommend not reading them. She does her job, she has transferred the Dior aesthetic into something very commercial and yet discussion achieving, so even though its not as creative previous CDs its certainly successful

@@understitchYT Actually i like reading people's comments there is a RAW reality in them. I simply cannot understand the fuss about what she brings in the table that is so successful/unique/praised. And believe me when i say this i want to understand this success. What am i missing here? Cause at the end of the day all i see is a perfect, co-ordinated & well oiled "social media" machine that pushes every SAFE collection she presents, while every established fashion critic has only good things to say. She should be praised instead for keeping things safe/same/simple in the house and not as a fashion/revolutionary pioneer of some sort.

Im so glad that you find my videos accessible, fashion can be quite haughty, so I wanted to avoid that while not losing any of the information

And that figure is from LVMH so it's definitely framed that way to make them look good

No, business of fashion had a segment about how LVMH is building its own Chanel challenger in house with its rapid revenue rising in the last 5 years it almost has a revenue of 8 Billion Euros while Chanel has a revenue of 16 Billion Euros.

@@kylesosa3562 I meant the figure that I used in the video

@@kylesosa3562 yes, I’m aware. This vid said Dior has 52B in revenue when Dior’s is much lower than that

@@understitchYT Yeah I also recall in one of your older videos you said Bernard Arnault is ruining fashion by buying up all these fashion houses but also don't forget most of the brands were dying out e.g on the brink of bankruptcy and some losing popularity when he bought them he actually brought them to the level they are on the only exceptions are those in which he tried hostile takeovers and failed such as Gucci and Hermes and the ones he acquired actually needed it or it's doubtful they would be relevant or heck even present today.

Theres a lot to this one obviously because it is an ancient culture and egypt currently profits from it still, so I can see arguements for both sides

I think its kind of case by case wether it reads as appreciative or appropriating tbh, its a tough line to walk

Well said. Elevating come parts of some cultures esthetic by other cultures is normal in civilisation of the West. That is why it's so creative - there are so many styles and esthetics.

Hear hear

❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥❤️‍🔥

His Dior time thanks to Arnault changed fashion as we know it today, a truly fascinating period

I dont think the darkening of the models skin can be excused tho 😬

You know people tan?….. since I am vaguely Mediterranean…. I can be super pale ….. spend a week in South Beach I get dark!…. And it’s a show!

The galliano one? Thats okay, not everyone will find everything offensive, but its still good to be careful

Yeah I dont think dior have made the best choices for their kpop ambassadors, seemingly just going with the one that moves the most product instead of someone that actually has the same vibe as the company

I respect his opinion though. Hes coming at it from a design perspective and Im coming at it from a business perspective. She has merits, but they aren’t necessarily in reinvention

🤌

I actually really agree, I really wish that he was more appreciated in his time

It was incredible, have you seen any irl? Like in a museum? It's just breathtaking

@understitchYT I wish! Only fashion exhibition i went to was schaparelli in NY which was also amazing

@@asourpo1yphony Oh then I'm jealous of you, I've not seen an original Schiap irl yet, but there's still time

She’s making a lot of profits for them

Who said fall?

The more time that goes past the more I think this could be true. Even when Galliano first signed there was huge concern over his wellbeing at this job because it was such a huge task, same with McQueen. Its a lot of pressure, to be the face of a new era of fashion and they got little to no guidance on how to do it. Of course Galliano was paid extremely well and was Arnault’s favourite, but that had really changed by the time he made those statements because in the end Dior wasnt selling. They sold their cash cow bags and perfumes, so they were okay, but the clothese sold very very badly and that must have affected his work environment

Hi Understitch To understanding a suppose contract that Galliano signed perhaps without a lawyer. We have look at LVMH the publicly traded company. When the profit drop every so lightly, the share of the company drop as well. The share always own by greedy stupid people. Therefore it is critical to push the designer to make more fashion that are saleable to the target market to help perfume and handbag sale. Share company always demand ever increase profit to new level hence Galliano have “make show” on the runway. Galliano contract would be like very draconian. For example a contract 25 years designer service ,a set service standard fee regardless the number collections needed. If the designer decided leave the service on his own accord (he the designer )will cover lost revenue determine by LVMH managment. Its a watertight contract however there a loophole. Getting fired. I think Galliano took advise from a lawyer to get fired. to escape the contract..@@understitchYT

Yeah I see that, shes more italian than the brand has seen before

You think so?

@@understitchYT what do I know 😂. I feel the path would have been richer if the industry had gone the Balenciaga rather than ‘New Look’… but then again we perhaps wouldn’t have gotten YSL…

It’s risky to use another culture to make profit

Gee…. Like pants and “heels” which were originally used for horse back riding?….. only the creatively dull and tragically uninteresting utter second hand buzzwords like “cultural appropriation”

You think?

Even if you see nothing wrong with the clothes, the blackface is still pretty obviously bad

Its so bigoted

I honestly love both, I think they both have their own take on what the codes of the house was, and they interpreted them personally, and I respect that

95% of Galliano Design's were perfectly wearable. Childish comments about everything creative and flamboyant being effect of crack not hard work and great imagination is unnecessary. If you love MGC design then you are very lucky - you can have very similar cloths from your closest supermarket. And white t-shirt with cheesy slogans you can find for a penny online. 😬

You mean with Kim?

True. Jisoo 💖

Yeah youre right, Ill try to remember to add her when Im back from holiday 💕

Well these are high end brands…. Most “woke” dummies can’t afford it…. They just whine and look to the internet to learn what they need tl be outraged about….