@@danhough242 Yeah I only edit on Resolve. Hard to recommend just one. There are loads of great tutorials on RU-vid. I'd say just start playing around with the software and then search for what you need to learn at each point.
Happy to see Davinci Resolve editing of DJI Mini 3. I just got both so I'd love to see more detailed work-flow videos editing the Cine-footage with Resolve. Even with of photo experience, there is a steep learning curve working with video. Meanwhile, I'll check out your other videos and practice some of the tips from this one.
I'm very new to drones (mini pro 3) and video editing and feel this video taught me the basic's of editing to make my footage look so much better than I have been producing.. Thank you for sharing..
I've been using Filmora and premiere pro for color-grading my footage. For me, Filmora is sometimes oversaturated with color. Premiere Pro has much more control over the lighting and color and gives me the best results.
Just stumbled across your channel starto watched and straight away recognise the location's. Thanks for the tips I'm getting this drone in a couple of weeks 😁👍
Yesterday I shot my first footage in D-Cinelike. For me LUTs are really helpful. In my personal opinion a colorgrading for no-used-to hobbyists ist "dangerous" in terms of ruin the footage. Without the hand I got from the LUTs I would use JPG direct out of the drone.
What I mean by that is not blowing out the bright areas of the image such as the sky. For drone shots it ruins the shot as you loose all the detail in the sky. Your better to underexpose the landscape and lift up the shadows in post, preserving the sky, as I've done here.
My system cannot playback or see D-Cinelike videos, but it has no problem with the normal video settings. Is this a driver I'm missing? The footage is coming off of a mini 3 pro drone
You state that for 10 bit colour in D cine you should use H265. But I’ve always understood that you can have 10 bit colour in both H264 and H265. Have I got that wrong?
@@deanbarkley7997 AFAIK 10-bit is tied to D-Cinelike. So no matter if you choose H.264 or H.265 (tha's just the encoding) But take this with a grain of salt since it is nowhere specified by DJI
I know I am watching this video almost 1 year later, but I can confirm both H264 and H265 are 10-bit colors for the DJI Mini 3 Pro. Just checked on my end.
Thanks for this super helpful tutorial. I've just updated from a Mini 2 to the Mini 3 Pro and took some D-cinelike footage but my new Macbook pro cannot open the D-cinelike? saying file isn't compatible with Quicktime Player. I've been online trying to find answer with no luck. Would you have any advice?
That seems odd. I've not had any issues playing back in QuickTime. D-Cinelike shouldn't make a difference as its just a colour profile. new MacBooks can handle H.265 as well so that shouldn't be a problem either. Does the footage playback in an editing software fine?
@@JonathanPalfrey Thanks so much for taking the time to reply. I have re-looked at your video and noticed as you said you had the settings at H.265. I had the settings at MP4 - H.264. The good news is I changed the settings the same as yours to MOV - H.265 opens and plays perfectly on the MacBook Pro. I notice it also plays at MP4 - H.264 but I'm guessing if you have it set to MOV this is a better option than MP4. Thanks again.
hey - thanks for your video - really helpful! do you use DaVinci Studio? by using H.265 or D-Cinelike I can't import the files into DaVinci Free and therefor are not able to edit my videos afterwards. Do you know how to work around?
Thanks, i really appreciate it. In Davinci resolve we can set in the Color Managment page, the "Color science" as "DaVinci YRGB Color Managed" to allow Davinci to recognice the imput profile color to trasform it in Rec709 for exsample. if i want select un imput color profile in the color page, which one i have to use if i shoot the clip in D-cinelike or normale profile? P.S. Sorry for my English is not perfect ... I hope, i was able to explain my concept.
Unfortunately it’s only log profiles that you select the input colour profile for. D-log is there but D-Cinelike isn’t a log profile hence needing to add the contrast and saturation manually.
the Mavic 2 Pro 10 bit was only with H.265. I believe this is still the case with the Mini 3 Pro although it would be worth testing out. I've always found that playback of the DJI H.265 files are pretty good as they are 4:2:0 so have never had the need to record H.264
I know I am watching this video almost 1 year later, but I can confirm both H264 and H265 are 10-bit colors for the DJI Mini 3 Pro. Just checked on my end.
You want to be in the ballpark area for shutter speed so yes NDs are needed however because of the fixed aperture you still need to give yourself some leeway with the shutter to get the best exposure. How much you can get away with will depend on the amount of movement in the frame. If your flying slow or high you will likely not see the difference. With the limitations of not being able to adjust the aperture on the mini 3 pro
7mins “slightly overexposed but not clipping” My question, how do you know from looking at the screen while filming whether or not clipping is happening?
Using the over exposure warning. It’s really worth keeping on. You’ll get zebras appearing if it’s blown. For a shot like that il increase the exposure until it just starts showing the zebras then bring the shutter slightly back down.
@@JonathanPalfrey thanks, I always use the zebras, but thought they only indicated overexposure? Was wondering how to differentiate between slight overexposure and clipping while looking at the controller screen? Sorry if I’m being thick 😂
@@grahamniven ah no sorry what I mean by over exposing the image is just recording the image as bright as possible (without clipping) and then bringing it back down in the edit. If you go too far you'll know because of the zebras otherwise you'll be fine.
I don't really think it matters too much, I do know that mov is a newer coding format, so that being said it may be a better solution if your using a newer mac.
Mov is a codec created by Apple and works better on their machines. MP4 is a more generic standard format. If you only edit on Mac, use mov, otherwise use MP4.
In theory they should, presuming they can open the footage. the app wouldn't be able to 'downgrade' the footage so it will have access to all of the 10 bit colour. Its an interesting experiment which I might try and do at some point.
I actually use DLOG CST in resolve and it works for me but still learning after 2 weeks. See a first test here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7O3g31tOyFA.html
I think this is a bit of a RU-vid urban legend that has spread over the years without proper explanation. A 180 degree shutter is all about having natural looking motion blur, when shooting from a drone though, unless you have near foreground objects you're not going to notice the difference as there isn't much motion blur anyway. With the lack of aperture control on the mini 3 pro its impossible to get the correct exposure with just ND filters unless you plan to land every few moments as the light changes, hence its better to use a slightly weaker ND to give you a bit of flexibility. You'll still have some motion blur as you won't be using crazy shutter speeds like 1/4000.
@@SakkiDuran for lights to be noticeable on a drone you’d probably be shooting at dusk so most likely have the correct shutter anyway. For fpv that’s normally always high shutter speed to help with the post stabilisation.
I have been a professional photographer for 30 years, working for newspaper for 23 of those years. I have been “playing” with my Mini 3 Pro for around 6 months and I have actually wondered about the whole “shutter speed urban legend” my self. I have a friend who is a documentary film maker who told me about it. But I must say everything you have just said makes perfect sense. Cheers!!!
