I don't usually comment on YT videos, but I think this video deserves a lot of recognition and respect. Thank you for such a beautifully made video. I am sure this will help a lot of people who need guides for the stealthburner.
Thanks for this video, had someone else build my Voron and I needed to replace the hotend so this helped immensely to know how it was all put together!
Thanks for this! Putting together a Stealthburner to upgrade my SV06+ while I source the parts to build myself a Voron 2.4. Just finished printing my black parts and currently printing my accented parts, all in ABS. Your video is definitely getting a bookmark for reference when i go to put it all together!
I built my Voron 2.4 awhile back - would have been waay easier if I had this guide then. You do steller video's and 'How To guides' and deserve a big thank you!!!
@@MapleLeafMakers lol, the box of pre-made wiring harness from KB3D. Found it easier to get the LEDs presoldered with abloom to connect to my umbilical and hartk board. Just a box of parts as of now, but now my coming weekend has purpose!
all of the graphics come from the official manual put together by the voron design team, all credit goes to them: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/blob/main/Manual/Assembly_Manual_SB.pdf
@@MapleLeafMakers If I may comment, and I mean it with the most respect: IMO you shouldn't edit (cut) the parts where things don't go exactly as you want. Watching you fiddling around makes the work more realistic and also one can learn about the unexpected things that may happen.
@@m.kanawati4385 I completely understand the sentiment there, but with this video already being nearly 20m long I'm not sure adding any footage of a missed solder or bolt not lining up properly would be super beneficial. We want to be more 'to the point' then some of the other channels out there doing similar videos.
You need a bit of soldering practice. Always reflux tinned pads. That wire should be sunk into the solder and not half melted in and kept within the pad's perimeter--best practice. While what is shown will work, it has a risk of failure with the temps and vibrations that these connections will be exposed to over time.
Hi Frank! thanks for the feedback. You're absolutely right on all counts. I think *most* of the solder joints on the neopixels are actually fine but there were one or two slightly sketchy ones. Soldering isn't something I get to practice often, and we even debated putting a "This is not a soldering tutorial" disclaimer over that section of the video.
@@MapleLeafMakers I gotta say thanks for the videos you've made and provided for free to support this Voron community! You've helped thousands of ppl build their own Vorons and sub components with your videos. So even if there's a small issue here or there. Please be proud that you put yourself and your work out there to help others! None of us are perfect. And it's way easier to point at other's faults than to put in the effort and work to make the dozens of videos you have. It's time you won't get back and it's appreciated!
ok but now how do i connect the fans? i got fan0 and fan1, but i cannot seem to figure out what either connects to as i'm not sure if it matters if fan0 becomes the hotend fan or part cooling fan..
That's Clear Nylon PA12 from: filaments.ca/products/nylon-pa12-clear-1-75mm I've also used this "Transparent ABS" from: 3dprintingcanada.com/collections/filaments/products/transparent-1-75mm-abs-filament-1-kg without a problem.
It's worth pointing out that there is no such thing as transparent ABS / ASA, that's why it can be hard to find. it's always blended with something else, but I don't know with what.
I realize this is a year old, but I use white PLA+. Egads!!! The horror!!! Subdues the brightness a little (which is desirable for me.). Haven’t had any issues with it being PLA either. YMMV.
That depends a lot on what material you are pressing the inserts into. For our CF-ABS we usually press around 265 or so. For Standard ABS 250, PLA 220.
Hmmmm. Sooooooo I just got done printing the pieces on the x carriage for the stealthburner. Am I seeing that I printed the wrong ones? I am upgrading to the stealthburner on my 2.4r1. Is this for the r2? 12mm rails? Do I need to print new ones for the 9mm? Or do I need to replace the rail? I thought I did enough research but I think I missed this part.
Hmm.. To my knowledge the SB was made for RC1 as well as RC2. github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/tree/main/STLs/X_Carriage On that page you can see the MGN9 and MGN12 options. You will definitely need to print new parts for the 9 vs 12 though.
Fantastic video! I'm building a StealthBurner for my Artillery Sidewinder X2 and this is super helpful. I do have a question though, what's the light grease you're using at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dOyYvnehLaI.html ? I instructions say to reference the VoronDesign BOM, but I can't find it listed there. Thanks!
Hi Steve! Thanks for the kind words. That's Superlube we're using on the needle bearings, but it's probably a little bit too light for this application, the same grease you use on your linear rails is fine to use here too.
That's the E3D Revo Voron. You can read all about the Revo ecosystem here: e3d-online.com/pages/revo it's a great hot end that we now have in 3 of our printers here.
The Revo heats up in under a minute. it's crazy fast. The ease of nozzle-changes it's it's major selling point though, no tools, no hot-tightening. just screw/unscrew the nozzle with one hand.
A maker with a cheap soldering iron? I think if you have to solder more than 20 joints the next five years an at least temperature regulated soldering station is mandatory. You won't regret for sure. You build an 1000$+ 3d printer and don't want to spend a few bucks for some proper tools?
@@snooker216 i literally have 2 wellers and a hako, i ended up buying a pinecil, my question wasnt, whats the best cheap soldering iron you can get? What I asked was essentially " are there any cheap options for a ts101 style soldering tip that could reach that insert without butchering the 3d printed parts" essentially, which I found in the pinecil
@@michaelmills3898 Then I misinterpreted your question. Personally, I actually use my Weller soldering tip because there is usually no contact with the printing material. A temperature close to the printing temperature and it works, at least for me, without ruining the soldering tip or the printing part.
If you're in Canada, you can buy a kit here: www.3dlabtech.ca/product/stealthburner-upgrade-kit/ In the US, West3D sells a similar kit: west3d.com/products/stealthburner-stealth-ab-upgrade-kit
@Alessandro Fabbris The entire stealthburner was done in CF-ABS from 3DPrintingCanada. I don't remember exactly which printer did these parts, it might have been a V0
we didn't use the CF-ABS on the other structural parts, but I don't think it would be a problem at all, in fact we are planning to do that for the next build.
You can find everything you need to build one here - github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner Also added it to the description. Glad you like the video!
The gear_ratio changes from `50:17` to `50:10`, and you may need to adjust your run_current depending on which specific model of motor you're using. We used 0.5A for the LDO 36STH20 and the Moons CSE14HRA
Hi Arek! We work pretty hard on tuning our printers for reliable, high quality prints. When we are going to be printing parts for videos we will often slow things down a little bit just to get that little extra nice-ness on the parts! Ellis' tuning guide though, it's all we use. That and a lot of trial & error.
@@MapleLeafMakers So it's mostly tuning and lower speeds? No post processing? Except the surface when it rested on the bed, those parts looks like injection molded. What layer height and nozzle diameter was used? Do you have link for that tuning guide? Thanks.
Prove me wrong but this is nothing more than a visualization of the Voron build manual !?! If you can read you can build it! Confirmed at least 1000 times.
The manual does show a lot but having somebody show exactly how to connect certain parts helps. I love Lego manuals, for example, but some people have trouble visualizing the orientation of some assemblies and this video solves the same problem.
what did you do with stepper motor wire ? just tuck it in ? my ldo has very long one, not sure if i should make it shorter and recrimp ends or leave it as is. also what layer height did you print those parts? looks very smooth