Wes, you guys all did a great job resurrecting the burnt baler. It can be expected to have to readjust and get everything tuned in after disassembling and reassembling everything back again. Anyone who thinks otherwise don't repair things like you do. You'll get it all squared away, and you know you will. That's what matters! 👍 I enjoyed the video, so I gave you a Thumbs Up 👍
Wes there is only one man that could have resurrected that baler and got it running right and that's you,with a lot of help from Tim!!!.. Just as you did with the 4960 all I can do is appauld you and look on in awe!!.
Man oh man. When I repair something that deep, like rebuilding a burnt 2cyl 16hp Briggs from parts of 2 others, and it runs perfectly "factory" the first go _I start twitching_ because I just KNOW I don't have THAT much Karma in the bank. I replaced manifold and head gaskets, valve springs, one cam and half the wiring on a 318 block and got it all back together and it ran fine and that damned car made me twitch for another 80,000 miles because nothing was wrong after the work. I'd rather have to put in to the shop 5 times for little odd knock-on shit than have something seem to run fine after a repair.
Wess I find that most of our videos are very informative you know what your talking about and do not come off as a know it . Younger farmers can learn a lot from you and I know you have been of help to other you tubers . Will is getting more talkative nice to see interaction between you all
As much as you have spent on the fire that happened to the bailer, how much was probably close to needing repair anyway based on the age? Never ceases to amaze me that some people will say screw it’s and spend 10x the amount needed to fix it to go buy a new one. Between you and Tim the amount of work performed and only to have the few minor things is quite amazing. If the dealer service dept rebuilt it, you may have still had several of or more issues. I guess the next business venture will be Pandy Krone Refurb Center.
Well one thing about your baler you have a ton of knowledge of all the things that can go wrong and how to fix it, I can relate to that kind of life. Great video thanks.
You got a full time job keeping that Asian moving😂😂😂just need to keep plenty room around your equipment she will be alright 👍 😉 awesome to have help like her though seriously!
Well at least one thing your not shy about getting things up and running again since I’ve been watching your channel every project that Tim and yourself ever worked on yah you had to go back to the drawing board a time or two but you always came through I like the one where you put the air bags on the Mac truck enjoy your channel
It's been a while since I have followed every video of yours so you may have discussed this. I do know the mushroom barns have been a joke for you lately. Have you ever thought about custom bailing for dairy farms? Here in lower Michigan, dairy farms have switched to hiring out the chopping and hay production. Seems like you could bail hay and straw for a fraction of the price as farms that buy a bailer to have it only be used a few days a year.
Metric system is standardized. So a m8, is a m8. But ofc u got fine threads and all stupid things. Cars often has fine threads, makes it harder to vibrate lose. Guess it’s the same on ur bailer. I’ve worked as a mechanic/machine operator/welder all my life. And in the industry they only use standard metric threads. And is therefore very easy to use. I can every bor diameter, to what m in my head. From m4 to m30 A m10 takes 8,8mm hole. But 9mm is fine. I’ve also done a lot of pipe work, threaded pipes. That’s a nightmare, cause there is so many different type of threads. But I guess there is a standard to. But not even the metric standard is always standard. m12 nuts sometimes r 16mm, sometimes 17. Depends on who made em. Have a good one Wes
@3:13 you see the wearing on the sides i get a large block of wax and rub the worn sides like that, helps lubricate and protect the sides... then during down time i repaint it with hardwearing undercoat paint.
