Today we will look at the 6s Arrma Kraton EXB RTR. Is it good enough to beat the Team Corally Kagama or Arrmas own 4s Outcast and Kraton RC Bashers? Can it beat the Traxxas Sledge out of the box?
First off, I enjoy your channel. Thanks for the great informative videos of high quality. 2nd...I do have a couple quarrels with this. Everything has a soot to break. You strengthen one thing. The strain goes elsewhere. It's a matter of what you are willing to put up with breaking. I personally would replace arms all day long before bulk heads. But as far as stock arrma arms go, I have many 6s arrma rigs and can pretty much count the arms I've broken. Your bashing displayed was a liiiittle more crash n burn than bash lol. Landing time to time is a help lol. Not starting a big whoozah but not entirely sure it's fair to crucify the parts fully. We wanted a stronger servo saver, we got it and complain about it. Landing like a drugged monkey falling from a tree will kill any servo lol. Again Everything has to have a breaking point.the arms are some of the last bits of plastic on the truck lol. Ok I'm done lol. Again thank you for and I enjoy your videos. Fan not a foe lol
Thanks for the input. I do want to say though that what you're seeing is about a minute of a 30 minute bash session. I put the crashes in there to show what the truck can take and I crash it on purpose to see what the truck can take. In a vacuum this truck is very durable. Put next to things like the Kagama and the 4s And it's not quite as impressive. I think that the new servo saver is nice though if they had made it adjustable so you could have it accommodate weaker servos it would have been cool. The reality is that there are plenty of channels out there that land perfectly every time and think every car is the best car. I'm just not one of those channels :-)
just to put my 2 cent in. as far as what to break... personally i would want to hinge pins to break instead of the arms. for 1 it's a cheep to replace the pins. I looked into the crystal ball and i see in the future, when someone invents a break away arms or pins. So if there was and tragic crash you would just have to put the arm back in place. I wonder who will add this to their rigs first. come on crystal ball. don't drop the ball arrma. lol Have Fun ps they have them on other type of equipment. i can see this happening some days.
@@readeracingRC maybe. The only problem I see with that is the potential for collateral damage. When an arm breaks you can bend shocks axle shafts break output cups etc. If it broke away intentionally a similar thing could happen and might be more likely to happen since it would probably break away more easily than it would break.
i love your vids man there extremely informative well edited and entertaining and its awesome your this interactive with your viewers every reply you commented on and hearted your a legend man Keep up the good work
Honestly i dont think its a bad purchase . But engineering , style , and durability is important. The kagama is so lighter which always makes a difference in durabilty and speed .
I completely agree. I don't think that most people will be upset about buying this. I'm not upset and I break it every time I take it out. I just think that it's not the best option if durability is your main goal.
@@Shellzwick For sure. I think that this car will handle good landings well from pretty much any altitude, bad landings well from low altitude and bad landings poorly from higher altitude.
The 4S Outcast that I have and the Kagama have both endured similar landings and not broken. So yeah I think they can. Obviously bad landings are always going to be unique and sometimes you can crash and break something when it doesn't look bad simply because it just was worse than it looks and sometimes you can swear you should have broken something when you crash and it doesn't. I just think that breaking it every single time I take it out starts to set a pattern. I definitely could be more gentle on it but I try to bash all of my vehicles similarly so that I can give a reasonable comparison between them. Still though it's subjective and I'm sure I've got plenty of my own bias in my opinions.
I have the V1 EXB and haven’t had any issues with the arms. I don’t go skatepark bashing and only jump the truck if I’m landing in grass or dirt. I have had a few awkward landings without any breaks. If a company actually addresses the issues the customer has with a product instead of giving it a fancy facelift priced higher than before, I don’t see how that is a bad thing. Also as everyone knows, there’s obviously a breaking point to all of these trucks we bash and I think I’d rather break the cheap plastic parts instead of the expensive metal parts. When looking at a truck to purchase I watch the reviews and you actually convinced me that this is a very tough truck! The bulkheads are always the main issue I had with my K6s V4. After that was the 2 end braces and center brace bending or breaking. Finally the shock towers always seemed to bend. Once you covered the fact that not one of those items broke, but handled everything you put it through, I was happy to know that Arrma took the time to address the main issues the previous versions had! P.S. why would you say RPM arms are not worth purchasing for the truck? I’ve always had great experiences with them on every other vehicle I’ve owned. In fact it’s one of the first upgrades most people make when extreme bashing!
I do agree that this is a pretty tough truck It just isn't up to the standard of some other vehicles including the two I showed in the video which to me, given that the problem causing it not to be up to that standard is one that's been a problem on this platform for a long time, is less acceptable than it used to be a few years ago. It's still a fun truck though and if you've never broken an arm on the previous version you probably won't ever break an arm on this one either. I agree that the RPM arms are good on almost every vehicle They make them for but unfortunately these are the exception. They aren't really any worse than the stock arms but at least in my experience they aren't any better either. The front ones might be a little better but the rears tend to break right at the pin and they tend to do it pretty often. At least in my experience they aren't worth upgrading in this case.
All excellent points. I have had pretty much the same experience with my v1 exb Kraton roller. I have switched to stainless steel cvd’s front and rear and swapped out the rear exb shock tower to a v3 tower. The exb tower was way too stiff and I kept blowing out upper shock mounts. Great video and happy new years
Yeah and I understand that all vehicles are going to have weak points I just think that the standard has been raised a bit at least for the type of bashing that I do and until Arrma gets these CVDs output cups and arms to a point where they can take a big hit It's a tough thing to recommend. Especially at the price.
Me again. Hay I'm curious. The servo saver that they upgraded. Is it adjustable. Like the old one, you could put washers in between the spring or buy an aftermarket one that is adjustable. Which solved a lot of issues. So does the new one have that option? Can you soften the blow on the saver. Pull washers or adjustable nut. Or maybe just buying the aftermarket ones that we put in the V1 version? Your right it looks like it's too strong and needs adjustability. Thanks Have Fun
Unfortunately it doesn't seem like it. They really aren't any spacers in there. You could remove one of the springs and that might help I haven't tried that though.
Great free fix!! Those front axles always pop out without that easy mod. As for the A arms I’ve been moaning for years about snapping the rear hinge are. Wish all companies would fix that. How about they swap where the anodized aluminum goes and move it in the center hinge Great vid! Always like when you guys ask tough questions vs bow down and praise to the big co.
Glad you enjoyed. Yeah a couple of years ago this would be a no-brainer for recommendation but other vehicles have proven that the standard for durability is just higher now. Thanks for watching!
Man you're on fire with these videos. Not a lot of other in depth stuff of it yet. And no kidding, I bought the servo saver piecemeal and I cannot activate it by hand. Im sure my amazon special servos will bite the dust pretty quickly after install lol.
Agreed. I think you're going to need a good servo too survive that servo saver. Have you tried it with the middle spring removed? Will it even work like that? I haven't tried yet
Outstanding review, I agree on all points, it's a beauty like the sledge, but that don't equate to a better product, I have my V2 kraton and love it! I'll be saving for a Kagama
@@DoRCI had a chance to get a Kagama for a good price. Now it's gone. I have planned to get Exb Kraton but after seeing this vid, I regret not getting the Kagama. Although I am not a basher and won't do much jumping. I don't know. I also like the Mojave.
@Themlpg73 if you're not a heavy basher any of those will be fine. The EXB is not a weak truck it's just not as good as some other options especially if you're going to be doing heavy bashing. For general driving though they'll all be fine.
@@DoRCOne thing I've seen with the Kagama is that it just wheelies as soon as you touch the trigger. It seems hard to control on 6S. What do you think about that? Also I'm looking at Mojave 4S and 6S. Would the 6S Mojave be a good purchase? It could happen that they come out with a new Mojave 6S soon.
Hallo from Germany! Hi first of all, very good analysis of the car. The chassis of the Corally Kagama is made of 7075 in Stock version. I also own the Kagama and haven't had any problems with it, which is a very stable car.... i love it 😁 Unfortunately, in Germany we have not yet been able to enjoy the Kraton EXB RtR. I hope the Kraton will be in our stores soon.
Unfortunately that's not the case with the Kagama. I verified with TC and it is 6061 from the factory. It's still a good chassis but it's not 7075. Thanks for watching :-)
Do you know what kind of adjustment I would need to do if when I land , the rear end always wants to spring up and almost make the truck roll over the front end
💯 Spot On! I prefer every Arrma 6S over the Kraton. Talion and Mojave are faves. Then Typhon and FireTeam. Then Outcast. The only Arrmas I’ve sold are my Kraton v4 and EXB. I’m glad it’s not just me.
Man! You are the best! Thank you for your videos!!! I have the xrt ultimate and I want to buy a second rc. I’m debating between the sledge and this one. Which one do you recommend? It’s really just for small jumps and racing on grass and dirt.
For that application either one would be just fine. They are both durable enough to handle basic low-ish energy crashes. Give the kagama a look too. It's kind of an underdog but it's a pretty cool truck and in my experience is more durable than both of them.
@@joemomma707 There's really not an appreciable difference in top speed between them. Both of them can reach speeds higher than you'll comfortably want to go off-road.
@@DoRC thank you!!! I’m debating between the two. What made you get the Kraton over the sledge? They don’t have the battery bundle online. It’s on back order. I’m on their website. What is the max batteries I can buy from them that are for the Kraton? (2) 2S, (2) 3S, (1) 4S, or (1) 6S Hardcase LiPo Battery (1) Compatible LiPo Charger Maximum Battery Dimensions: 6.22 x 1.89 x 2.76 in / 158 x 48 x 70mm Minimum LiPo battery spec: 5000mAh 50C I don’t know which option is best if I want to be faster.
@@joemomma707 I've had both. I actually get basically every new vehicle for my channel so I've got pretty good experience with all of them. They all have their advantages and disadvantages. I think just get whichever one you think looks the coolest really :-) Battery-wise any standard 6S battery up to around 6500 milliamp hour will fit the Kraton but the sledge is more limited without modifying the battery tray. Fortunately battery tray modification is cheap and easy. I actually have a video on it if you search my channel. There's also plenty of aftermarket solutions these days which will allow you to fit pretty much whatever battery you want in there. SMC makes good ones. You might want to contact them for specific suggestions.
Nope that's normal. At rest you want the rear to be toed in and the front to be out So that under acceleration when all the slop gets taken up the wheels are pointing straight. If they're pointing straight at rest you'll end up with toe in at the front and toe out at the rear under acceleration which will lead to undesirable handling
Great and honest review and looking into the technical side and durability of it. I was seriously eyeballing this EXB as my next step in RC cars, coming from a Vorteks, but I think I’ll reconsider that after watching this video. I haven’t seen anything about the Kagama so i am off googling that now 😅
Yeah check out my video and then check out a bunch of other people's. People have been slowly getting them and pretty much everybody agrees, even the really big bashers, that the kagama is good. The EXB is also good it's just not quite as good as some of the latest designs
@Sarge45 maybe though I think getting something that is a different driving experience would be worthwhile and the Kraton Handel's more like the vortex than the outcast
I love the deep dive you made into this Ken. I honestly was going to try and save up over the next long while and try and make the new EXB my next RC purchase. Now you’ve got me thinking about it. I really like the Kagama. I had a Kronos XTR it. It just seems like a better version of that. You might have me changing my mind and being able to save a couple hundred dollars as well as get a new car a lot faster lol. Great review and I really appreciate the honesty.
I am 6 packs (6s 6200mah) in on mine. 1st run snapped off the rear wing and blew out the rear arm / bent the hinge pin. Been running in 45-50 degrees F sending it 12’ high and 50-70 ft out. The front bumper spring will need replacement soon. Loving this rig right out of the box. My Typhon 6s TLR is still my most durable basher but the esc went nuts and it did a runaway full speed reverse into a fence but only the c-block and rear gear housing need replaced! Not sure the Kraton would have fared as well!
Ouch. Yeah the buggies are inherently more durable because they're smaller and lighter and the arms are shorter. Glad you're enjoying yours. Overall I'm still enjoying mine as well. I hope I conveyed that in the video. I think it's a fun truck and within its limitations it's good it's just that it isn't as durable as some other options out there.
@@kevinf7201 Good idea. Fortunately they're cheap and pretty easy to replace but depending on how you bash they will break reasonably often and when they do you likely to bend CVDs and seemingly with the new output cups break output cups. Not saying it'll happen to everyone and not saying it'll happen every time but it will happen :-)
Great video and very informative as usual. I love my Kagama and 4s outcast. I’m not a huge air basher but I definitely get some nice jumps with my rigs. I believe that Team Corally has some awesome rigs in the lineup and will continue to improve with each model. In my opinion Traxxas and Arrma have serious competition with the Corally vehicles.
I agree. I think TC's biggest problem right now is their previous reputation that they got from the first vehicles that they released which really weren't that great. Their new stuff is awesome
@@UDRC85 okay yeah then you missed the darker days. Especially the first generation that they released had some pretty major problems and they broke quite a bit. They've been listening to customers and pushing hard to improve ever since and they've come a long way.
Given only one choice and budget to buy. Which one will you buy from below [irrespective of any similarities] Kraton 6s new exb Xmaxx Losi promoto bike Please answer
I say the bike is out right away. It's a cool novelty but not a super practical basher. Between the EXB and the X-Maxx is tough. Personally I'd probably buy the EXB just because it's a bit more versatile out of the box. It's got a better power to weight ratio so it's better for stunts and it's smaller so you can bash it in more places
Xmaxx. Expensive initially but repair costs are relatively inexpensive, parts are readily available, many upgrades(if u choose) are on the market, and it’s tough as well as fast for a 30# vehicle.
So I'd have to agree on the 4S line from Arrma. But this is where I think you'd have to account for variance. Your experience has been the complete opposite of mine. I bought a Kagama RTR. And 5 minutes into the 1st drive I crashed it hard. Because the reciever was bad. I kept losing control over the car mid jump. So instead of waiting for warranty to fix it. I just ordered a stock receiver and radio from Jenny's RC. Fixed that. Well not jumps into the next pack a rear toe link broke. And honestly the design of the rear toe link is inferior to Arrma. It's not a captured ball. So it just pops out. Then it will keep popping out because it's already compromised. So I bought Arrma Kraton 6S toe links. With some shimming got them installed. Problem solved. Then on my 3rd pack about halfway through the rear diff started clicking. So I ordered one from Team Corally. Installed that. And wouldn't you know it. The next time out the front diff failed. So I sold it to a friend. Between breaking things. And the latency in obtaining parts. It just wasn't worth it to me. But I will agree that the Kagama does feel well built. A lot of reinforcement. Now I have the new K6 EXB. And I've gone through 3 battery packs. More if I had the time. And my style of bashing is akin to Aldo Loyal, Rich Duperbash and RC Dude. I have a Freshpark ramp. And the jumps are at least 100 ft. If not more depending on how fast I can get it going before getting to the ramp. I have had zero failures. And I have landed straight onto the front end 2 times. Once because the sun was in my eyes mid flight. Lost track of the rig. And the other simply times it wrong. I did go through this new K6 before the first run. I added loctite to the standoffs. Replaced the shock cap bushings with M2C bushings. Removed alm the diffs and replaced the fluids. Added grease to the diff and pinion. Checked the rest of all the nuts and bolts. Added a high speed fan to the motor. And so far nothing has broken. Now the Kratin V5 I have was a nightmare that almost caused me to quit the hobby. That thing broke every pack for months. And now there's almost nothing on it that's stock. But it's very reliable now. So this can vary is my point. I recently bought a Fireteam. Didn't do anything to it. Box stock went thought 3 packs before the hub bearings failed. That rig also has gotten the full Vitavon, M2C and Scorched RC treatment. But it never failed in an unreasonable way. Unfortunately it would be very expensive to buy several of these in order to run a reliability test with a higher total count to really see if they break that much. For now I think this experience could be considered one account. But may not reflect all accounts. I agree that these issues are long standing. The pillow balls. The sho k standoffs. The axles bending. Arms breaking. Etc. I know. I've broke them all. Lol. But for the mist part there are upgrades for a lot of these issues. And for the issues that don't it is typically the most inexpensive part.
Absolutely and that's why I always say in my videos that the experiences I'm having are my own experiences and won't necessarily be what anybody else experiences. We all bash differently and we're all going to experience different breakages. I can only report on my own experience. That being said I do want to mention that how far horizontally you travel doesn't really have that much effect on how much force is imparted on the vehicle at landing. Unless you run into a wall or a berm it is 90% how high in the air you are that determines what's going to happen when you land. So jumping 15 ft high and 50 ft across is just about the same thing as jumping 15 ft high and zero feet across as far as the car is concerned. Again of course there are exceptions to this like if you hit a rock head-on or take a really bad tumble that kicks you way up into the air or something like that but in general those really long jumps aren't much harder on the car than just jumping straight up in the air. It sucks that you had such a bad experience with the Kagama. I've never broken any of the links and I think that the solid plastic links are superior to the adjustable aluminum ones. I appreciate your in-depth comment and definitely agree that we are all going to have different experiences!
Maybe the best parts of the newer exb rtr’s are the servo saver and electric department (For a stock 6s)the exb bits are still the same exb it seems And I think your right saying the Kagama and their own 4s outcast are stellar options 💯💥 Sweet review Kenni man😎
Do RC when you checked the Dif fluids where there gaskets on your diffs? When I went to change the Dif fluids in mine, too, F 60K, M 500K, and R 30K, none of the diffs had a gasket. I checked the exploded view, and it says they should be there some insight would be appreciated.
Yes they all had gaskets. Are you sure the gaskets aren't stuck to the ring gears? They are a similar color and can be kind of easy to miss if they get stuck on that side.
@javiertorres7696 You're welcome. It is entirely possible that they forgot them but I would have to imagine the differentials would leak if the gaskets weren't in there. Let me know what you find!
@@DoRC I can speak from experience that if you forget the gaskets (or they are damaged) on the exb diffs they will leak out all fluid. I keep a couple packs of gaskets on hand now.
@@woodrmp1 Yeah that's kind of what I figured. There are actually some smaller differentials like the upgraded ones for the Grom that don't have gaskets and seem to get away with it but I think if it was designed to have a gasket in the first place it'll probably leak if it doesn't.
New to your channel and enjoying it so far. Lots of good info. I'm considering this and the new 4S 2.5 Kraton, it's good to see some additional thoughts vs. guys like Rich Duperbash, Razor RC, and RC Dude81 to name a few, all good as well. I currently run an old school HPI Trophy Truggy on 4s with a few mods, but want to add a newer truck to the herd. I love that Trophy and am shocked how tough it is, most of the time. and how not sometimes... bad landings with cartwheels for 30-40 feet, no damage, perfect landing from 6 ft up on dirt and grass, rear arm explodes. Sometimes it's a string of bad luck, and luck, good or bad always beats skill and engineering, lol!
First of all I'm glad you're enjoying the channel! Second yeah my bashing is usually kind of different from the other channels that you listed. I like to try to see what will happen when a car crashes because that's what most people are going to be doing with them. I feel like landing perfectly every time really doesn't give you a feel for how durable the car is because most modern bashers can land most jumps perfectly and survive. I do agree that sometimes bad luck just happens. That's why I try to put several packs through a vehicle before passing judgment on it. In my experience if a vehicle breaks every single time I take it out that's probably indicative of a problem. And this suspension has been a problem for a long time it's just that my tolerance for it has become reduced in recent years since more durable cars have come out I think the v 2.5 4S would be a great option. I don't have the Kraton but I do have the outcast and it's extremely durable and handles well.
@@DoRC Agreed, I've had cars that broke every time I took them out as well, and it gets old fast. Good to know about the new 4s .models though, thank you. I was originally planning on the Outcast, but will have to give it some thought...
@originalkontrol If you mean the 6s Outcast I would definitely hold off on that. I can pretty much guarantee you that updated models of all of the rest of the 6S line will be coming relatively soon. They basically already have all of the parts so it's just going to be a matter of putting them together and getting them ready to sell. The v 2.5 4S Outcast on the other hand is a really great option.
@@DoRCi was looking at the 4S 2.5 Outcast. Not sure if I'd get on better with the Kraton or Outcast, but initially inclined to the Outcast. Kraton is more standard truggy, which I already have in the Trophy Truggy... Nice thing about the 4S stuff is in addition to initial purchase being less, I have the batteries already, and parts are less...
I have the rpm front arms and they are literally indestructible. I’ve done a direct hit from 30 ft in the air and have no problem. However you are right, there is nothing out there for the rear arms
Great video! I totally agree. I have a 1/8 V1 EXB roller and I've come to the conclusion that 1/10 scale trucks make better bashers. Big heavy things break more and the kraton 1/8 is expensive to fix. I don't really run my kraton as a hard basher. I might eventually take my electronics from the kraton and put it into a Tekno et48 for the track. If my 1/8 truggy is not much of a durable basher, it might as well be a racer!
@Themlpg73 I think so. Short course / desert trucks are kind of inherently more durable than open wheel style vehicles just because everything's tucked under the body and the body's going to hit first in a crash. I would go with the 4S Mojave. It's a beast and it's plenty big enough well being cheaper to buy cheaper to run and cheaper to repair than the 6s version.
@@DoRC My Mojave EXB has been extremely durable. Smaller tires plus huge bumpers front and rear and wheels protected by the body (vs the Kraton). I've only had to replace the front lower arms as the holes for the pins became oval and allowed the pins to bend (only discovered this when taking apart for maintenance). Otherwise have replaced the front bumper "shock" as I cracked it on one side when I hit a metal garbage bin at the park so hard it knocked it over lol. I'm running a castle 1717/MMX8S on 6S so there's lots of power and speed going through it. Had some nasty crashes hence the front arms issue.
Yes, I’m buying it anyway I don’t care if you say you don’t like it or not I like it cause I know I won’t beat the hell out of it and I like it did I wasn’t get a crate in a long long long time ago, but they came out with this one. They fixed a lot of a lot of problems so now I’m getting one finally so I can’t wait
Go for it! As long as you are just doing normal bashing I'm sure it'll be fine. I make these videos to test the vehicles and see where their limits are. Not everybody's going to be pushing them to their limits.
@@DoRC w00t! i'm still tryin to find a GROM. i have a gloforge but one of the xformers or mosfets inside is d e d dead. i did however just get back from my LHT with the new new KRATON 4S v².867530Nieeyine or whatever and am about to unbox. 🍻
@@rogueFactor Yeah I've been calling it V2.5 because Horizon didn't update the version number and you have to call it something other than V2 :-) I think V2.5 is appropriate since they'll certainly come out with a V3 eventually so I don't want to call it a V3. Congrats on The new baby and let me know how it goes!
Hi from an engineering side if they make the arms stronger something weaker will fail, so they have to make a choice (cost to replace) and labour (how easy is it to replace). Maybe if they beef up the arms the energy will transfer to the bulkheads...….thus being expensive to replace.
I definitely understand that but it's clearly doable because the Kagama can take the same hits and not break anything. Arrma Maybe limited by their own design but from an end user point of view that doesn't really matter. All that matters is how often you have to replace parts and I got to replace a lot more parts on this than I ever have on the Kagama or on their latest 4S vehicles.
Yeah I think it would require an arm redesign as well as a redesign of the hinge pin area. It also would likely require redesigning the axle shafts and output cups as they're all kind of interrelated.
I cant believe I missed this on my first run video but one thing for me is the lack of roof skids!! The body is already to thin I just went to the skate park got on the roof damn it really sanded the roof. Other than that I dont know how you broke all of that. I like to bash even though they call them extreme if your bottoming out the suspension the jump is too high. I stay to around 6 maybe 8 ft if I land in the dirt I listen for the dreaded body slap and adjust. My 8s Outcast I broke a few parts its just a heavy heavy rc too heavy for its own good thats where the Xmaxx really shines 8s, light, durable. I am really loving the 6s for the power and size to me its perfect. Adding more battery is adding more weight so your taking away from what the suspension can absorb. These were the reasons I stayed away from Arrma off road stuff so far my 6s Big Rock and Kraton have done great.
Yeah I disagree with that. Chassis slap is just a normal part of bashing. That being said what you're going to break is just dependent on how high you're jumping. If you're keeping it low enough to prevent chassis slap then yeah you're probably not going to break anything. If you're jumping 15 ft or higher things are going to break.
@@DoRC think in the realm of a real car bottoming out pushes the suspension too far moves the stress to the chasis. Now your hammering batteries and other parts defeats the purpose of having a suspension if your going to slam it but that's what every one does so its accepted as norm its good we dont have to agree on everything I am more cautious just enjoying it less broken parts 😁 still.apprecite your view on it
@L2theWcarscoffeelife absolutely. Honestly if it weren't for the channel I wouldn't bash as hard as I do. I don't want to be one of those people that breaks everything every time but I think it's important to at least push the limits to some degree so that I can show people what the vehicles can handle and what they can't.
No real vehicle jumps as high as these. Much less if you scaled up for size. If so, they'd crush. Not bottom the chassis. To avoid chassis slap you either don't jump high or would have no suspension. It's the reason there's more travel than ground clearance.
Well if money is not an issue you can make pretty much any RC the best basher with upgrades. That being said out of the box the kagama is hard to beat. It has a really good combination of durability handling and stunt performance. The biggest problem is the lack of upgrades and parts availability. There are upgrades for it and parts are readily available through a few online locations but you're not going to have the same support as you will with a Traxxas or arrma. There's nothing wrong with this EXP either. It just has a couple of weaknesses that have been there for a long time which I've become less tolerant to as other more durable platforms have become available.
@@DoRC Sweet,thanks for the reply I will definitely look into the kagama,im just getting into bashers all my other platforms are crawlers and street cars etc
@@333UNLUCKY The new v 2.5 4S arrmas are really good as well. Super durable a lot of fun and fairly inexpensive to buy upgrade and repair. Definitely worth the look
The biggest weakness on the 4S line, can easily be solved, but guess what...Cost Money. 4S is perfect once you had a Solid chassis bash bar, then PERFECT.
I sold my K4s V2.5, after realizing that the small motor they put in the truck, is all that will fit. Drove the new K6 EXB, have 21 packs through it, and haven't broken anything, running 4s on punch 8. If you add a bunch of battery weight, and over-power it, stuff's gonna break.
The 7S pack only weighs maybe 100 g more than a 6s pack and the breakages I've had don't really have anything to do with how much power it has as it lands off power. Also you can put pretty big motors in the 4S trucks. Sometimes you have to relocate the ESC but that's not a big deal. You're definitely not stuck with the stock motor size.
I will agree on some of the team truck but I've been on my a suga. I have been every single shock rod as to where I don't hardly ever been my arrma shock rods
It's definitely a good basher as I stated in the video but also as I stated in the video the other two vehicles I showed have been through pretty much the same abuse and have not broken the same amount. There are aspects of this truck that were designed many years ago and have fallen behind in durability.
Can you recommend where to purchase a Kagama online? Not seeing it at main stream retailers. Only seeing it at places I don't recognize like "Garage Life RC". Also concerned about parts availability.
Go to hobby recreation products. They're the main distributor and they usually have coupons. They also don't charge tax as far as I've experienced. Parts availability usually is not a problem. RC hobby explosion has basically everything, HRP has most things and you can get common parts on eBay.
Big price tag. If I'm buying Arrma 6S my money is on the Notorious and after market upgrades. I like the look of the Arrma 4S but I prefer the bigger scale trucks. Maybe it's time for Arrma to make some thing 6S with the plastic chassis designs of the 4S line. Side note. How's parts availability on the Team Corally car ?
I've never had any issues getting parts. The locations you can get them from are limited but supply from those places is usually fine. Hobby recreation products and RC hobby explosion usually have what you need. Really common parts can be found on eBay too
Agreed on the Kagama and Kraton 4s being a better option for the money. My Kagama is an absolute tank! The Arrma looks fantastic, but all that glitters isn't gold. Stinks they havent address the arms yet!
@@DoRC If just running on open car parking lot or open grass field, which do you think has the better handling or easy mod for potential better handling (am not planning to jump the rc), the kagama, the new exb kraton 6s or kraton 4s center diff? Thx if answer, in advance 👍
If I was just starting the hobby over from that damn E-Maxx now, I'm darn sure I'd go for the 4s Kraton with that center diff. Lighter, can run in everything the 6s can, and less money for everything. I'll never jump these things like Duperbash, so I know it would be plenty enough RC for me.
I am arrma fan boy but idk if these upgrades justify the price. One upgrade id like to have seen by now is an aluminum/stronger front rear hinge pin holder. Idk if that would've helped with your problems but i broke that part on all my 6s rigs and is annoying to have to change!
Not sure. Didn't really have any problems with the hinge pin holders so I don't think so. Honestly I think the big problem here is that the suspension just fundamentally isn't strong enough. Again I want to reiterate though that for many people it's going to be great. There is only a small percentage of people who are jumping these things 15 ft or higher in the air and for general 6 ft high maybe 8 ft high bashing it probably won't break.
@@DoRC haha yeah 15ft is my warm up jumps. I do send most my trucks so yeah that's part of it. But it definitely is extra brittle in winter. It's the only hinge pin without metal reinforcement. Also they can crack n the pin pops out n can't hardly tell. Maybe the new version is made of better material at least 🤞time will tell.
@@DoRC Yes sir, ridding bmx I'm use to bigger ramps then are normally used for a small ish rc car. It's interesting to see how far I could potentially go if I could rode at 40-60mph lol. I don't always send it off the big ramps cause not landing on all wheels is painful just to watch & guaranteed to require some fixing!
@@fleshprobe Yeah before I had my channel I used to do a lot of smaller bashing too. These days it seems like I'm always testing the durability of something though. Smashing things up has kind of become my style now :-)
@@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj Yeah I don't think cartwheels are going to break arms. All of these breakages happened from landing on a corner from 15 ft in the air.
Curios why you didn’t compare this to the sledge? I’ve technically never owned a 1/8 6s truggy (even though the the erevo basically is a truggy) and honestly am extremely under whelmed by the maxx so I’m thinking about getting a 6s truggy instead. I’m a sucker for clip less bodies, 100% of the reason I bought the granite grom was the body, so I’m leaning towards the sledge.
Two reasons. It wasn't really on my mind and I don't have one at the moment. That being said the sledge is another compelling choice. I don't think you'd be disappointed if you got one of those.
Honestly my notorious has the exact same arms and I'm not breaking them and it's in the teens here in Minnesota. I noticed you are landing hard at awkward angles on one wheel a lot of times. Maybe having that extra battery cell is throwing off the balance of the car in the air. I think it might have less to do with the vehicle and more to do with the fact that you are struggling to control the truck in the air.
You're seeing a select one minute out of about a 30 minute bash session. I'm showing the bad landings to show what the truck can take. I also try to land badly on purpose because I know people are going to do that. The reality is just about any car can handle a perfect landing these days. People who only show perfect landings in their videos really aren't stressing the cars that much. I like to stress the cars and see where the weak points are.
Thanks! I've had about the same luck with RPM arms as I have with the stock arms. I tend to break the stock arms in the middle and the RPM arms at the hinge pins.
I think you were a little too nice on the arrma. I own a 1st gen K6s exb, and that thing left a lasting negative impression on my soul when it comes to the 6s line. Seems to be the same ole problems wrapped in a newer more expensive package. Thanks for being honest in your reviews buddy!
Well I'll try to be fair with my evaluations. It's a great car as long as you aren't going to be bashing too hard. 2 years ago recommending it would be a no-brainer. Today it's not quite as easy.
The older hobby wing stuff won't. They're modern g2 ESCs will according to the manuals. And to be specific any ESC that's capable of a cell count higher Will technically run on 5s or 7S It's just that some ESCs don't have LVC programming that is compatible so it will end up thinking it's the wrong cell count and not work properly
I have those size jumps but I made my yard more like a track , I would go through same issues with the kraton , and than the diffs would go and be hard to keep up with when the rcs beat up , just wasn’t fun anymore flipping all over without the going fast as possible which my yards not big , over 30 mph I’d end up in the canal 😂 so my challenge usually getting as much power to the ground which the kraton is one of the best but it will implode if you put it through to much , where the typhon , maxx , can take the abuse better . Just ranting , I’m going run today it’s 33 degrees though and always a breeze because we’re near the water
I'm still running the original arms on my original 6s exb, bent 1 rear shaft but a hammer fixed that. Mine seem to have held up well. Actually after years of bashing it I don't think I've broken much. Your spot on about the Corally rigs and the new arrma 4s rigs being great option, been loving the newer Corally rigs and the new 4s kraton OMG🥹 Great informative video mate!
I think it really depends on the type of bashing that you do. The arms are good up to maybe 6 or 8 ft in the air but much above that and an off-axis landing is almost guaranteed to break something. This is especially true the heavier the car gets.
I've watched a couple of your videos. I just watched a couple more. Looks like most of your jumps are eight maybe 10 ft high. People tend to overestimate how high they're jumping. Keep in mind that the peak of a normal house roof is about 11 ft high.
@DoRC I ment more of the bmx track videos, either way I have had many nasty landings from possible 20+ feet across or up and never done a lower arm, 1 upper arm think and my dad broke one aswell but thats it. It never gets below like 15°c when I'm driving though. I don't experience the weather issues(temp damage) like you guys get so could just be that🤷
@@rccrazy Yeah I think that's another thing that people don't necessarily realize. Jumping distance doesn't have the same effect as jumping height. You can jump a car 100 ft in distance but if it's only 8 feet in the air it's not really that much different from jumping it 0 ft distance and 8 ft in the air. It is the speed at which the car hits the ground vertically that imparts the most energy into it. The exception to this would be of course if you landed a hundred foot distance jump into a rock or a berm or something like that. Ultimately though everybodys experience is going to be different. I only had one of those breakages happen in cold weather though as I'm in Florida and it's mostly warm here still.
Arms break, it happens. Even if they don't break they can get worn out and have excess slop so it's something worth changing out here and there anyways. A new set is like 30 bucks and you break less the more your driving improves. Been a lot of hype around Corally but I don't see anyone doing anything cool with them yet. And the 4s line is no 6s replacement.... I broke my chassis the first pack running the new 2.5 Outcast.
I get that but I've put the other two vehicles in the video through basically the same abuse for more packs and have not broken something every single time I've taken them out. The suspension arms axle shafts output cups etc have been a weak point on the 6S line for a long time and whereas it hasn't gotten worse I think my tolerance for it has become reduced given the improvement in the competition and the fact that they haven't fixed it even though they have to be aware of it. Where did you break the chassis? I think you're the first person I've heard of that has broken a 2.5 chassis.
@@StraitJacketRC ah. I think M2C is working on upgraded pins. I've had some pretty hard hits on the rear of mine and haven't had an issue with that yet. I did finally break a rear hub but that was after much much abuse.
Only issue I have with the kraton 6s is the rear arms. I will say I send mine to the moon and it’s usually my fault with awkward landings but some how my outcast 8s arms tend to take far more abuse before breaking and it’s a lot heavier. The kraton is unbelievably stable jumping though and why I love it so much.
Yeah it's definitely a fun truck and the arms are primarily the problem I have with it too. It's the same arms with the same problem that has existed for years. 3 or 4 years ago it wasn't as big of a deal but there are contemporary competitors out now that are just significantly more durable and that makes this type of problem less acceptable. Of course it also all just depends on the kind of bashing you do and to some degree the luck you have :-) anyway glad you're enjoying yours and thanks for watching and commenting!
@@DoRC ive alway been a huge fan of all their 3s/4s line they got some great upgrades now with all the diffs, shocks, and now slipper or center diffs just killing it an all these are very durable with a few simple modification
Yeah there are several ways of dealing with the problem. My issue is that it's still a problem. Two or three or four years ago these sorts of things were acceptable but not there are cars out that don't have these problems it feels less so.
@@DoRC I agree. I got 32 packs through my kagama with max6 combo +15mm hubs, belted tires, 80wt rear 70wt front shocks. 500k middle, 100k, front, 50k rear in diffs literally only broke a wing. Be fair mostly running on my big bash sc track. I literally have every upgrade for it 7075 chassis, billet bulk heads, billet bearing carrier, billet diff mount,billet hinge pin braces, billet shock towers, billet bearing carriers for it just waiting for it to break haha
Katana looks awesome .. BUT… limited places to buy them and also horrible to get parts for that’s the issue. Corally needs to get setup with major vendors like Amain Hobbies who can actually not only sell a lot but can load with parts.
I think it depends on what your expectations for parts are. There are a few places online such as RC hobby explosion that carry pretty much all the parts you would need and ship pretty quickly. If they don't you can order directly from TC in Belgium. They only charge $10 for shipping and parts usually arrive within a couple of days.
I don't know about RPM's arms for V5/EXB not being stronger. They are a lot thicker at/around the pins. As for their rear arms for these newer models...I don't think those are stronger. Reason being, is they kinda' skimped out on material around the droop screws. So, I'd say to get the RPM's in black up front and stay stock at the back. I went RPM all-around and have my doubts about those rears. Only thing saving them is I don't jump it beyond half a foot....not yet. Gonna find a way to get a ramp (by damn) this mid to late spring. Someone should get RPM to revise the rear arms imo. Also, I wonder if they could make shock towers. Like a kit where they'd be even thicker than M2C's aluminum with all the bits to accommodate that. Idk 🤷
Not sure. I've run them a few times now and haven't found them really to be any more durable than the stock ones. They tend to break in different places but they tend to break about as often for me at least.
It's probably a little bit lighter but not by much. Generally speaking it's going to have the same suspension weakness. That being said they're both durable vehicles. They just don't quite live up to the standards set by the other vehicles I showed in the video
As a V5 Kraton and Fireteam owner, I've always found it peculiar that everyone gushes over the bling factor of the EXB models with all that high zoot aluminum(not that i'm not envious)). The stamped aluminum and plastic parts have tended to hold up. The achilles heel of both vehicles has tended to be with parts they actually share with the EXB like the ones mentioned in this video. And damn, based on videos i've watched it sounds like those diff outdrives have gotten worse!!
I'm afraid they have too. I've broken one on the big rock and two on the Kraton And I don't have that many packs through them. I've only ever broken maybe three or four in the years I've had all the other 6s platform vehicles.
not sure that's fair what you said about rpm arms, the plastics rpm use tend to be more flexible and hold up better, I that arrma plastics are better than they were around 5-6 years ago but really could and should be better. The drive cups I think they've weakened them by cutting the grove deeper, maybe be a good idea to bring up the cup problem with customisers like m2c or just bash and see if they can make some better cups (just a thought). I imagine you know one of them being in the game so to speak.
Well I'm just going on my own experience with the RPM arms. I found that they really don't tend to last any longer than the stock arms do. They break in different places but they don't really seem to last me longer.
@richardhutchinson9646 Well they did update them as well. They made them quite a bit thicker which should have made them better but it didn't at least in my experience.
@@DoRC It's quite often the type of plastic used, flexible plastics tend to hold up better, it's possibly too stiff a plastic that arrma use so snaps easier when bending, rather than flexing and absorbing the impact as well as others.
The Outcast and Kraton 4s V2.5 will become attractive. The weakness you discover will make this Kraton a no no. The improved is there but still weakness can cost instant money. I will I have Outcast 4s v2 is beast. For the type of bash I do is enough, and I always support plastic chassis. Yes, I never broke the chassis of my Outcast I like take care because I want my Arrma to stay forever
Yeah I think it's time for Arrma to update the suspension and arms on this truck. It's been like this a long time and durability has kind of moved past it.
There is a way to help with A-Arms Breaking: Coating the Truck in oil (WD-40 or in my case Muck-Off MO-94 because its a modified PTFE Dry-Lube that doesn't leave residue that attracts dirt). Before I run ANY new RC, I always coat the ENTIRE vehicle in MO-94 and let it dry for several days before its first run. As oils soak into the plastics, it conditions them and makes them slightly more flexible and less prone to snapping. It may not fix the hinge pin issues but it will certainly help with snapping plastics in general. This is ESPECIALLY important prep for cold weather bashing.
You can do this but in a lot of cases it'll actually make problems worse. The arms won't break but they will flex more which will cause axle shafts to be more likely to bend and output cups to be more likely to break.
@@DoRC Well Ive only ever broken one output cup and it certainly wasn't from coating the truck. Ive been in this hobby for 19 years, for most of that time I have always coated every single RC I own and it has never once led to issues.
@@wallacengineering8096 probably going to depend on how hard you bash to. No matter what you're doing if you've only ever broken one output cup on these vehicles you're either not bashing very often or not bashing very hard. I think I bash reasonably hard but not harder than a lot of people and I've probably broken a dozen of them over the years If not more. It's a very common thing to break.
@@DoRC Well again some of it is indeed luck. Ive gotten lucky with output cups, not so much diffs. I used to go through crown and input gears like crazy no matter how many times I reset the mesh. But no I don't bash gently. I bash quite like yourself most of the time with fairly large jumps and then sometimes Ill do huge sends like Rich DuperBash or RCDude81
@@wallacengineering8096 gotcha. Well like you said everybody's experience is different and I can only report on mine. I just think that this suspension setup hasn't been updated in years And whereas it was acceptable when it first came out durability has moved on and there are several vehicles that can take hits that this one cannot. It's made even worse by the fact that there really is no good upgrade path for these arms. Again that's just my opinion.
That's good to hear but if you're only breaking any RC car once per 25 to 40 packs you're probably not bashing very hard. There's nothing wrong with that but I've never owned a single RC car in the 20 years I've been to this hobby that could last 25 packs of hard bashing.
Hi @DoRC. Great channel and love the review. I'm a complete noob and new to RC, and I'd love to know what is meant by "x packs per year". Is this referring to the oil in dampers packing up by chance? Thanks in advance!
I feel like adjusting the suspension travel would be setting the vehicle up for your preference of riding and handling ... I've lowered my front and rear on my kraton 6s v5 the front a little more than the rear to give it a forward leaning stance ... which helps with centre of gravity , I've had my truck for 2 years now and I've mostly broken diffs, like 2 arms and some shock mounts ... I've had to change out a couple diff cups but after removing the red end cap that issue went away ... I haven't broken or changed out any drive shafts ... and I been through 2 wings mounts and 2 tie rods ... but ever time I broke something on the truck 9 of of 10 times it's been faulty driving ... I've also got a felony and I've also had it for 2 years now ... and all I've changed on there was tyres and one upper arm ... and that plastic bearing holder for the center shafts to an aluminum one .... For the most part I have done a tremendous amount of changing diffs and over all setting up the car the way I prefer it to handle ... What I can say is ... these bigger trucks are heavier... and a faulty landing on a light weight truck vs a faulty landing on a heavier bigger truck can't be compared.... the smaller trucks are more forgiving to bad driving ... where as the bigger trucks are much less forgiving
I'm not sure how much I agree with the larger truck theory. Smaller trucks are smaller and lighter but they also have smaller and weaker parts on them. Ultimately the parts on a vehicle need to be built so that there is a balance between the weight of the vehicle and the strength of the parts. Also keep in mind that the Kagama in the video is basically the exact same weight as the EXB and basically the exact same size. It doesn't break arms shafts or output cups even with bad landings. I'm glad that you haven't broken a lot of parts but it really depends on how you bash. I intentionally put these things through what I would consider to be the upper limit of normal abuse so that I can quickly find weak points in them. A lot of people who are reviewing these cars are being careful with them because they don't want to break them. As far as I'm concerned that doesn't really show people what's going to happen in the real world because in the real world people are going to land badly and I think showing The result when that happens is what's most important. That being said everybody's experience is definitely going to be different and what I experienced is just my own :-) Thanks for watching!
I think the Kraton is very expensive. It is a very nice TRUCK don't get me wrong, I absolutely love ARRMA but it's EXPENSIVE!!! I also agree that the Kagama is a mutch more durable vehicle, and you get a lot more for a lot less! THE KAGAMA is an absolute TANK OF TRUCK!That said, with the amount of popularity the kraton has in the aftermarket, it's not hard to address the issue, at least from what I've experienced. Fairly easy cheap fix if you go the stock route. The Kraton is coo!!! But for the money the Kagama has it beat in every aspect, from durability to electronics. Kraton got it on looks and looks only! Sorry bout the rant.
Yeah the Kagama seems to be the best deal in the 6S Monster Truggy market. But parts are so difficult to come by and it's so much more difficult to work on. But it is a good little bit tougher
@Krapper515 ive never had an issue with parts and whereas it is a bit more difficult than mainly because it had a lot more screws holding everything together. I believe that's one of the main reasons it as strong as it is.
@DoRC fair point, fair point. But yeah in terms of parts availability I can't seem to find anywhere that has consistent stock of Corally parts. And they're website isn't necessarily easy to navigate. Ebay is random, very few parts on there either. Nowhere near as easy to get parts or find parts for as Traxxas or Arrma. Idk if I'm just not looking in the right places or wht
@Krapper515 check out RC hobby explosion. They have a pretty consistent supply of parts. The corally site definitely isn't the most user friendly but especially if you know the part number you need it works pretty well. But yeah I agree that they're parts availability is not on par with the major US brands and it's something that they could definitely work on but still think it's worth it
I think you don't know how to drive it good enough I have jumped 3040 feet high no problems so far I got 3 packs but now it's to cold to run it. I love mine keep it up Iove your content 👍
You're probably right I've only been bashing everyday for the last 20 years so probably still need to build my skills :-) Seriously though I only show about a minute of a 30 minute bash session and I like to show the crashes so people can see what the car can actually take. I also crash it on purpose sometimes because landing perfectly doesn't really test anything. Pretty much any modern car can land perfectly from basically any height and not break.
The arms are good. I only broke i believe 2 in the lifespan of 2 trucks in 4 years. But i do boil them before first use. Never broke an outdrive cup. Did bent a dogbone in the front a few time in terrible crashes but i bent them back. Hopefully the servo savers are not too stiff. Otherwise im not going to buy them
I think it just depends on the kind of bashing you do. I have broken a lot of arms and so of a lot of other people. The trucks are durable there are just more durable options out there now. The new servo saver is very stiff. You'll probably need a good servo to go along with it.
@@drivenrc No it's aluminum into aluminum but my concern would not be bending the pin It would be bending the chassis. The plastic arms play very important role during crashes. If they can't flex and smooth out the shock impulse that occurs in a crash it transfers a much higher peak energy into the chassis and you can really mess stuff up.
Ok. You've upped power, I've never seen 2 consecutive good landings, lol. Just saying you do more cartwheels then a gymnast! I'm not trying to be too harsh..... just saying
So the power of the vehicle doesn't really affect what happens when you land badly. That's almost completely down to the strength of the car itself regardless of how much power you have. Also keep in mind I am editing these videos and what you're seeing is a selection from probably 30 or 40 landings. I usually show the bad stuff to show what The car can handle. Just showing a bunch of perfect landings doesn't really tell you much about a car as pretty much any car can land perfectly these days and take it.
@DoRC about power, I see two sides. But that's me. I will admit that the more aluminum, the more plastic that connects to it will break. It's the weakest point, I don'tl have to tell you, lol. In the end, it is what it is, and in my opinion, it's a good buy, lol. You have fun! Have a blessed day!
@@bradharvy13 The thing about power is it only matters if you are either able to jump higher because of it or you land on power and are utilizing that extra power. Because of the limitations of my bashing spot that extra power really isn't letting me jump higher nor did I ever land on power when I broke something. If you're crashing into stationary objects at speed then the faster you're going obviously more damage you're going to do but that's not what I was doing.
Traxxas sledge is way better , I’m using Proline badlands belted and jumping high for over 25 times and didn’t break a thing yet ,LOL . All stock except for Traxxas heavy springs and 70 weight shock oil for the heavy landings . Good video , thanks for testing this one out , I was almost going to get fooled by the aluminum shiny parts 👍
Don't get me wrong it's a cool truck and I think a lot of people will be very happy with it. I'm happy with it I just have to bash within its limitations.
@@DoRC I don’t think I hit any limitations yet 😂 but also don’t forget how easy to find parts and Traxxas electronics program on everything even the batteries I don’t think there’s any other company that can match that ,still love your videos dude, happy new year.
@@user-xp4qz3ol6p I was referring to the EXB but I've also found the limitations of the sledge :-) rear shock tower, motor mount, tires and eventually chassis.
@@DoRC I don’t think I crashed that bed yet with the sledge, but I would like to know if you know the answer to this question I never owned an Arma, but do you really think the EXB chassis is stronger than the sledge? I do like the motor mount on the sledge because most of the RC cars hold the motor from the front with two screws only except if you remember 15 years ago the savage flux had the best motor mound that I’ve never had problems since till today, so I was kinda excited to see that on a sledge instead of just two screws
@user-xp4qz3ol6p I think that the sledge chassis and the EXB chassis are pretty comparable. Arrma uses kind of a substandard flavor of 7075 so it's not really as strong as it should be and the sledge chassis is pretty darn durable. The updated tower to tower brace is going to help on these new V6 vehicles though simply because It allows less force to be transferred into the chassis.
I just watched your Sledge review before this one, and wow the comments are such a juxtaposition! The Sledge was a TANK and never once broke, and yet everyone was calling it overpriced garbage, frothing at the mouths how awful it was and dragging it out into the street and beating it. And here we are with the Kraton EXB which you and every reviewer has been breaking with every bash, and yet the comments are filled with "It's because you land bad!" and "Have you tried this? Have you tried that?" Lol the denial of the golden child EXB and the hatred towards the "Kraton clone" Sledge is hilarious.
First, thanks a lot for your honest review. Many early videos are way to one sided. Honestly, I think i will buy the Kraton regardless, since I dont do the type of bashing you do. The highest jumps i will ever voluntarily do will be about 3-4 feet. And I dont really get this modern style of bashing with these ultra high and or far jumps... the vehicles you drive are still cars with wheels which belong to the ground. If that doesnt sound boring maybe get a damn airplane or sth😂
Yeah I think if you're only going to be jumping a few feet in the air you're not going to have any trouble. Honestly this car is reasonably tough It's just not as tough as some other options in my experience.
I guess. I've done the same bashing with all three vehicles mentioned in the video and only one of them has broken every single time. As long as you don't consider that to be a problem I guess there's no problem :-)
@@DoRC I do say the old version 1 or 2 arms I have used for ever. They all have weak points. There’s one thing we never take into consideration. Work hardening and how it actually impacts the lasting of the parts. If a part is used to its extreme when new it may not get work hardened in any amount. A break may occur to soon past its threshold of what it’s capable of handling. I have always built up harder and more crazy bashing never do I go the full mile while my fingies are still waking up. 👊😎 Thanks for your input It’s massively appreciated bro 🤘🤤
K6 EXB v2 is the best truck I’ve ever bought and I’ve had lots of trucks. Haven’t broken anything on mine, not in any meaningful way. That’s just me though.
Yeah if there's one thing I've learned doing this channel is that everybody's experience is going to be different. I can only report on my own. I try to explain that in any critical video.
@@DoRCand that’s exactly it. I don’t care for RC reviews anymore for exactly this reason. All I want to know are the features and I decide from there. Unfortunately there is not much critical thinking going on in this hobby anymore “But he said this truck would be durable! I break it every time I drive it! The internet said so!”
You left out probably the toughest of them all, the Traxxas Maxx. This, and the Big Rock which own seem to be show trucks. The Maxx, at least for me has been industructibe. Literally, and it is a truck I am appreciating more and more as the days go on. That said my Arrma Talion has been extremely durable as well. These new ones have been a bit problomatic between the esc and servo issues to some of the things you mentioned, there are better vechiles to spend money on. The Kagama is one I am strongly considering.
I agree that the Traxxas Maxx is very durable and probably the most durable out of the box RC ever made. That being said it also handles like a block of concrete and I'm not sure it's really direct competition to the Kraton EXB.
@XWXW-lk4jf absolutely! I wasn't meaning to knock the max. My G1 4S Max is my go to daily basher. It's never been on the channel but I run it all the time.
I think it’s funny how these big companies continue releasing new upgraded versions of existing cars , casually slap a name like “ ultimate “ or “ extreme” on it, and a RU-vidr gets hold of it and breaks the damn thing in the first video.
Well to be fair I am crashing it hard because I want to see what it can take. There are other RU-vidrs out there that are happy with it but they are also landing pretty much perfectly every time so that makes a difference.
I suppose it depends on how you bash. At least in my experience anybody that bashes is going to crash. Things are going to break when you crash not when you don't crash. In my opinion it's what happens when you crash that's important
one reason why i still haven't purchased one single ARRMA RC . More expensive than some of their RC competitors , and yet prone to some of them having more problem issues than some of their RC competitors 🤔 .
I don't want to give the wrong impression. These are actually good cars They just have a couple of fundamental weaknesses that have become less tolerable as other models that don't have those weaknesses have come out.
Do the first thing you should upgrade anyway that’s what I wanna do when I get my vehicles. I got two more vehicles I wanna end up buying I got my big rock coming in this month that I’m getting the brand new Creighton, then that I want to start saving up And start putting a new parts on your like the front you know I mean the back do you know talk about the back pieces in the front pieces? I don’t forget what they called but the ones you should upgrade first anyway cause you know they’re made out of plastic and you know eventually they break anyways so I wanna upgrade them anyways so it’s gonna cost me like $150 for my Maxx2.0 And the sledge I didn’t even get the round to it so if that cost 150 to get it done just probably gonna cost probably like 225 to get it done so yeah I’m definitely doing it upgraded to aluminum and then for that the parts should be fixed and if I break something else, I’ll fix it down the line, but I don’t go out and batch my vehicles
The problem is the parts that are to blame Can't really be upgraded. It's primarily the arms and how the arms mount out of the main weak point these days. Don't get me wrong It's a good car and I enjoy it It's just that these weak points have been here for many years and other cars have come out since then that are better.
I have 3 different arrma trucks one of them is the KRATON exb v2 straight out the box and till today haven’t broken anything I haven’t been so lucky with my talions look I know it sucks to be unlucky I get it but It’s ok brother don’t just bash blast 😅
It's definitely a tough truck it just isn't quite up to the standard of the latest things that have come out from other manufacturers and even from arrma
Yeah I would say I bash on the upper end of what normal people would do. Not quite to the level of Talbot but still pretty heavy. I think for just general driving around small jumps that kind of thing it's going to be just fine. It's just hard to recommend it when you can get a kagama for over $100 less and at least in my experience it's more durable out of the box.
The idea of having repairs every time you take a car out is simply not acceptable.I like Arrma but they need to get a grip of this.Think some of these cars are too big and powerful.
Yeah how much you have to repair it is obviously going to depend on what kind of bashing you do and how much you're crashing but my biggest problem with the issue is that it's been an issue for a long time and they haven't fixed it. There's also no really good upgrade path for it so you're kind of stuck with it. A couple of years ago it felt more acceptable. Today there are more durable options available so it's less acceptable. Thanks for watching!
I mean when u drive like that its hard not to brake something😂😂 i ran mine into a rock going almost full speed nothing broke🤷🏽♂️ ive yet to jump it, but ive seen videos of this thing going like 20-30 feet up in the air and takes it like its nothing, obviously landing properly lol
Yeah thing is that most cars can take perfect landings from 20 ft in the air. That doesn't really show the durability of the vehicle. I bash all of my cars pretty much the same when I'm testing them and the other two vehicles in the video went through all of the same stuff For twice as many packs and have had far fewer breakages. Also keep in mind that you're seeing one minute of about a 30 minute bashing session. I intentionally put the bad landings in there so people can see what the car can handle. A modern basher surviving perfect landings doesn't prove anything. A modern basher surviving bad landings is what's impressive.
You watched approximately 2 minutes of a couple of hours of bashing. Basically you saw what I wanted you to. I also crash these things on purpose to make sure they can handle it. Any modern basher can land from pretty much any height on its wheels and survive. It's what happens when they don't land on their wheels that matters. Like I said in the video I've bashed many other vehicles exactly the same and others have held up better. Thanks for watching :-)
