Poor presentation, poor speaker, too many ah’s and ummm’s, too slow at talking, in summary, very boring indeed. I got a chuckle when he said, drill a hole that matches the “circumference” of the bolt. I couldn’t be bothered listening to this guy any longer, so l switched off. 😩
I’ve been looking for the proper anchors to use in the brick interior walls of our 100+ y/o building for a long time. The double expansion shield anchors are what we need so we’ll be buying some from your company. Thank you.
So I want to attach a pull-up bar to a concrete ceiling. It's rated to hold 800 pounds, though I only weight 170. What type of attachment would you use? There are 4 pre-drilled holes in the steel bar that you attach.
It's funny but every single "expert" that I've seen on RU-vid talking about masonry bits doesn't know how to pronounce masonry. The spelling should be a clue. It's three syllables, not four. It's pronounced MAY SON REE, not MAY SON AIR EE.
Ha that made me laugh. I'm in the UK and we use soldering irons to solder with but for some reason when I watch a RU-vid video from the USA in how to solder everyone pronounces it sodering iron. I end up screaming " it's solder ing.. Damn it" lol
What fastener do you recommend to attach a TV wall mount to the mortar in a brick and mortar wall? Or is it not advisable to use a fastener in the mortar?
The mortar would be weaker than fastening to the brick. You could use larger Tapcon bolt, and hammer drill pilot holes into the brick the size of the shank of the bolt, not the threads, so that the threads cut into the brick as you drive in each bolt. A mount with four bolts should be sufficient
First, I love you guys. I often order stainless hardware and nobody can beat your pricing, inventory and delivery times! The video on masonry anchors is a great start. So many thoughts come to mind based on my experience, i will share a few that i can think of sitting here: 1. Drop-ins are my favorite for concrete, floors, walls and ceilings. I like the ones without the top rings as i can set the depth based on the length of the bolt and overall application. They are by far the strongest, and allow the use of grade 5 bolts or stainless bolts. Also, if you need to move something later, you dont have something sticking out of the wall or floor. Be sure to clean out the hole with a round wire brush and vacuum before setting it. Oh yeah, i often screw in a bolt a couple of threads and tap it down in place before using the setting tool. Once you tap the setting tool, the anchor is not moving. 1.5 I have not used the old lead shield drop ins (now pot metal i guess) for years. They seem prone to breaking, and lag screws are generally not very strong so not a fan. 2. I hate tapcons on CMU (concrete block) walls. So easy to strip out. I know they are fast and easy but be sure you get the right drill. Also, if you are going into a hollow block (most common) be sure you have threads the length of the wall of the block. If half the length of the tapcon is not threaded, you have no holding power. Keep in mind too that when you drill into the block, the back side of the block will chip off, making the wall very thin. 3. You didnt include good old plastic sleeve and sheet metal screws. I often use these on hollow CMU and stucco (real stucco, not dryvit) because they hold very well, and I can use stainless screws. 4. I use the round head anchors with the drive-in center pin for hanging electrical boxes and conduit clamps. They work well on CMU, are easy to install, and generally hold quite well for low stress stuff. Only disadvantage is they are really difficult to remove. Take care, and see you on the next order.
If I was drilling into hollow block, and I already drilled holes for a 3/8 tapcon lag bolt, which anchor would you recommend? I’m hanging softball cubbies in a dugout
Dude! Look how it's spelled: "Masonry," Three syllables. No "a" berteen the n and the r. Me, I'd have doubts about a workman or contractor who couldn't pronounce the names of his own tools.
Not a bad video but, you should really use the correct nomenclature to describe the product, and how to use it. During the tapcon portion it was a bit rambling/mumbling. I hope this doesn't sound mean, it's supposed to be constructive criticism.
If it's a solid concrete wall, sleeve anchors would be your best bet. But you should consult local codes and engineering data before selecting a fastener for such an application.
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners From watching your video I would have thought you would propose a wedge anchor for the deck ledger board in a poured concrete foundation wall. Do you have a video that explains how to choose one or the other type for this purpose? or can you say a few words here please?
Please, would all you guys on RU-vid learn to pronounce the word. It's MAY sun ree. Three syllables, not four. There is no such word as MAY sun EH ree. It's hard to listen to a supposed expert mispronouncing the terms he's discussing.
It really depends on your application. Are you anchoring into a solid material, such as concrete, or a hollow material, like a cinder block? What are you fastening to this material? For something like this, it would be better to give us a call at 866-573-0445 so we can help you determine the best anchor for you application. You can also email us directly at support@rawproductscorp.com.
It's generally better to insert the anchors first and then your application atop them. It can be done the other way around, as was shown in our video on anchoring to concrete (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DStVH-kg9ho.html), but that may cause complications and crooked anchors depending on your application. Just make sure your measurements are on point; once the wedge anchors are down there's no getting them out.
It's going to depend a lot on how the 80lbs will be applied on the cinder block wall and how thick the wall is or if the cinder blocks are filled. Additional, the number of anchors will really depend on the application. You could consult the manufacturer of whatever you are fastening to the wall for advice or contact our customer service for more information - 866-573-0445 or via email at support@rawproductscorp.com
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners What would you recommend for a seasonal use insert, I want to setup a screen on my garage door in the spring, but take it down in the fall each year?
Depends on what you're mounting to it. If it's a mailbox or something light, drill into the stucco with a masonry bit and any expansion anchor should work in a correctly sized hole (the size of the anchor, no more)
If this is Stucco direct to block walls there is no issue as long as the block wall cores are filled with concrete. If this is a Stucco EIFS system then you need to find out how think is the foam board. Also don't crank down on the screws if there is foam board because you will damage the finish wall.
Sorry Bob just want to help you out a little, you seem to be good person but it's Masonry not Masonary! Please don't take this the wrong way, I just care about good people!
this uh... guy uh... uses way uh... too uh... much uh.. excitment when he uh... speaks and umm... uses umm.... and uh... way way too much! Anyways maybe he was nervous I guess👍 lol thx for the info at least
