@GoldenStateOfMindSD yea people wanted gold for that shit back then. People would use 3m black caulking and carpet filler under or behind pannels worked just as well and I remember the old dynamat use to melt away when I use to do car audio 20+yrs ago
Majority of my audio setups do mid to high 140s. My g6 had 2 12" Phoenix gold sx12d4s doing 144 to 145db under 400rms. I eventually upgraded and average 148db 25hz to 41hz.
@@BudgetBassHead you were so thorough in this video. I would definitely enjoy seeing you upload an educational video regarding Sketchup... As this is my first time hearing about it. Looks like I'll be checking out Sketchup. Thanks!
Awesome job man! I was wondering if you could possibly steer me in the right direction? Do you think this could work with am 8 or 10 inch set up? Obviously won't be as loud, but could be an option for people who can't fit12,'s. Thanks
@Matt Hahn it's a great way to go at any size. I had two of the kicker 10" sub/radiator slim boxes behind the rear seat in my crew cab pickup, and they punched like MAD without broadcasting it to the whole block. That's the power of 10" setups: in the car, apocalypse. Outside: no one really notices. Having had systems jacked twice before over the years, I don't like being obvious.
I have never considered a passive radiator setup to be a sealed enclosure. I always lumped them in with ported enclosures. The real benefit of a passive radiator setup is that it allows the user of a smaller enclosure volume than what is typically feasible with a ported enclosure due to the length of the port required for a small enclosure. Fwiw, I entered the $150 challenge using a $70 Ignite r1600/1d amp and Rockville K6-12 in a stock 4runner and scored a 141db at 39hz sealed in the kick. It is amazing what can be done with modern budget gear.
@@HighVybeTribe Aperiodic and Passive Radiators were def more of a home audio thing. I don't think I've ever seen Aperiodic in Car Audio. Totally forgot about those.
I have a similar setup. Output was way more than expected with my 1200 watt amp. I’m using one 12” NEP advance and a 12” earthquake passive radiator. Also it is very musical and plays deep. Best sounding setup bass wise I’ve ever owned.
You said " I don't know why there isn't more people running radiators ?" My answer is one word EDUCATION.. That goes for me too. This is the first video on radiators I've ever gave the time of day . Mostly because they just cant explain the process. I really enjoyed this and learned a lot. I watch a lot of your others as well. Well done sir !
Oh yeah , one question. How is this type in tight bass ? I love the blues , classic rock.. Sometimes i just wanna 'lower the dynamite ' showin my age there..lol
I bought the slaps-m10 because of this video and I'm so glad I did! the 20L box with the new Alpine R2 10" works perfectly. i can play 20hz even at high volume and it sounds great! no port noise! no distortion! the whole trunk of the car is almost empty :D i can't thank you enough for this video! 😍 BTW: I switched from 12" bassreflex 50L tuned to 32hz and this is louder and deeper on same power🙂
I've always been told that passive radiators shouldn't exist on the same face as the active subwoofer. This was a nice post to see. Expanding my ideas for my build. Thanks.
You are correct, passives perform best on opposite sides. Best performance is obtained by placing passive backwards= loads the lower freq. better, and helps with the rear wave time alignment to reinforce the front wave. If the guy in this video had the powered sub forward, and the passive backwards it would have performed even better. Also, i talked directly to the owner of earthquake about these slaps 12 inch passives. Most people like the guy making this video think you need 2 of the same dia. passive radiators, as 1 powered subwoofer,= you dont, its just suggested to use 2x the effective piston area. These slaps have just over 100mm= just over 4 inches of peak to peak x max, so you can use 1-12inch subwoofer(as long as it has 25mm of 1 way x max, or less), with 1- 12inch slaps, also earthquake recommends using the subwoofers rec. Sealed enclosure specs with their slaps units! So in this video, if he had bought a second subwoofer, and mounted them forwards( and used the same 2cu. Ft. total for both powered 12s, and 2-12inch slaps), and had the two 12inch slaps on the backside of the box, facing his rear tailights, this would have been really loud, and still deep!
@@matthewmattson6881 Yes they do, and it sacrifices performance! They do it, because it fits. Any orientation will play/work. And will outperform the same regular sized sealed enclosure's low freq. extension, but it's not optimal.
It'll do aight on the same side of the box, it just takes more tuning to keep them in phase. A lot of builds don't get the phase right (which isn't that difficult to dial in) and it causes weird comb filtering effects. It's definitely doable, not quite as straightforward as tossing in a port and calling it a day.
@@evilinside5984 So my pop has a regular cab pick up truck. We're taking out 3 Kicker Comp c10s (his brand choice, not mine) and he wanted just 2 Kicker CVR 10". The enclosure is for three 10" subs Could I just use a single 10" Kicker CVR and get two of these passive radiators, or should it be one per sub? The enclosure is about 1.5-1.75 cu ft total Id say, all one shared chamber, so I can always just seal one sub cut-out.
Bruh!! I am not a basshead anymore for , for 15 years now. I saw this in study, and ran a shallow 12 with 2 radiators behind my rear seat in my 250..im stil tuning them down but OMG!!!! I dont believe it!! The output is amazing. I ran earthquake magmas in my 20s, alternators, batteries, caps, name it.. so satisfied with this
I have always loved and stand by sealed boxes. The sound, the feel, and the response of the notes hitting so hard I have not been able to replicate in a ported box.
I recently finished a budget build with eight 6.5” woofers in an infinite baffle setup and I have to agree. Kick drums are felt in my chest. Despite the small drivers, low end response is VERY useable down to 30 hz with useable output down to 25 hz!! All woofers were wired to a single 2 ohm load. With the JP8 amplifier running them, actual power output to the woofers is only around 500 watts total. The bass is VERY clean despite the less than $100 total spent on woofers and wood.
@@BigSteve_Gaming187 sorry man I wasn't critiquing you, I just misread the comment. I was just stating that adding passive radiators is a ported setup. It no longer considered a sealed enclosure.
I know I have heard exactly what your saying about PR’s for a long time. But I’ve built a BUNCH of ported enclosures, probably more than 30 of them in the last 40 years…. I’ve been doing this for a while 🙂 And none of my ported setups sounded as good as my 18” PR setup. My previous enclosure with two 15”s were a little louder, but not as musical. Not sure why, but it is just the fact of the matter.
@@Chris_Wolfgram enclosure design makes a difference. Without accurate tsp's proper enclosures or plots are impossible. Pr's are more friendly due to a potentially lower order rolloff, but nothing sounds better than a driver with good specs in it's optimum enclosure. TSP's are key.
Agreed. Ive played with both. And u dont have to have a ton of power in a ported enclosure if designed correctly. Port area and tuning will play a huge in how low itll play and still maintain a good bandwidth
Ive found while wi isd helps a ton with designing a proper enclosure it doesnt take cabin vplume snd resona t into account. Another words the cabin will be a main factor in the overall final response.
I've always got better performance and output by mounting passive radiator(s) on the opposite side of the woofer(s). They move opposite the sub cone due to pressure differential and so as to not cancel soundwaves the passive radiators always seem to more greatly improve output when mounted on opposite side of subwoofer baffle
It works but not for the reasons you describe. First of all - passive radiators do not move opposite the subwoofer, until you get below the tuning frequency. The enclosure will gradually go out of phase below this, with a big cancellation notch where the passive radiator free air resonates, and also at single digit frequencies where the radiator is simply pushing out from air pressure. On a slow motion camera they are in phase or close to in phase throughout the pass band, or moving negligibly for the upper bass. Secondly, you can think of an enclosure as an expanding and contracting volume, so whether the speaker is on the back or the front, moving out or in doesn't make a difference. You have to think: Is this speaker expanding the enclosure volume or contracting it? What putting passive radiators on the back does is better balance the box. When the speaker is moving, the box is recoiling in the opposite direction, which for meaty car subwoofers can be significant compared to a lighter PA driver cone. Putting drivers on opposite sides means this vibration is cancelled (or reduced in the case of passive radiators that don't exactly imitate the driver) and less energy is used shaking the box if it's on a loose surface.
A friend of mine told me to try some PR's when I told him I wanted more bass but didn't want the weight. I did some looking and I found that they can actually add a decent amount of sound to your single sub set up. After this video, I think I'm gonna give it a go.
Technically, providing sound from the rear wave via ported enclosure is supposed to add +3db. I think a PR can do that at lower Db ranges. As the Db go up, the PR will probably struggle to keep up. But are great for a number of 140db type systems.
I'd like to see you test this setup with one of the radiators unweighted and the other with both weights attached to it. Three different tuning frequencies in one enclosure would be pretty interesting.
I've modeled this in Akabak, and it won't work like you probably think it does. It would be similar to installing ports of different areas/lengths in a box and expecting multiple tuning frequencies compared to a standard vented enclosure. It simply doesn't work that way. All you get a is a group-delay and phase-shift nightmare.
@@zod-engineering-welding Taking car resonance and other variables that come with in world testing in mind , id say it would still be an interesting test to see what kind of frequencies peaks and phase issues are present.
It would have the same effect as two different port with different port lengths, the two will be summed for an average tuning frequency.... However with PRs you can run into other problems with varying tuning frequencies between PRs. I'm all for the science though. do it and let's see what happens.
I am definitely going to try this in my ford ranger xtra cab.. Take a jump seat out and build a 12 into it with a passive radiator. Only makes sense after watching this video. Thanks BBH. Excellent video expalining in detail and showing the proof. More bass using wayyy less power and compromising the charging system. I love it. Im working with a TARAMPS 3000HD 1 OHM and that tiny amp is a freakin beast to say the least.
Actually a passive radiator works almost the same as a port cause they resonate at the frequency they are tuned to just like a port, the big benefit of a PR is that it basically does not use up any enclosure space like a port would do with the same tuning in the same volume
Exactly right! While physically the inside is sealed off from the outside this is not a traditional sealed enclosure as it is claimed to be. The PR changes the system to a Helmholtz double-mass double-spring oscillator aka: it works almost exactly like a ported enclosure with the only main difference in the output is there is a notch in the frequency response that corresponds to the PRs free-air Fs. People should study acoustics and electromagnetic field theory a lot more before they profess incorrect "facts".
Great video. I'm a huge fan of Passive Radiators. It's important to point out that an enclosure with passive radiators is technically a bass reflex enclosure, but superior in that there is no need for a massive, space consuming port AND no port noise. This is definitely the best way to get a smaller enclosure with better low end bass extension. These are also far easier to tune by adding mass vs lengthening or shortening the port.
Passive Radiator isn't a sealed alignment, it's a bass reflex or ported alignment. The passive Radiator acts as a port and requires a subsonic filter, just as a vented enclosure does. So the passive Radiator doesn't over excurse
I love PR's. At the PR tuned frequency, you get the benefits of a ported enclosure, usually low end, as the PR's resonate at the tuned frequency like a port. As you move away from the PR tuned frequency, you gain more and more of the benefits of a sealed enclosure. I have a PR tuned to around 23 Hz. Above say 60 Hz, The PR barely moves at all. The higher frequencies are tight and punchy.
Would you recommend a low tuned passive radiator in conjuction with a Kicker CVR 10"? Box is sealed. That kicker sub seems to favor the higher frequencies. I just want it louder and to play a bit lower for my pops regular cab pick up. Or would you recommend tuning it around where the sub shines more?
@@Luminous.Dynamics My suggestion is to put the sub and PR into a box calculator like WinISD. See how the sim looks to you. Iow tuned is a relative concept. low tuned in regards to the subs ability to play low, or considering the subs lower limits.
The passive radiators were big time in the 80's and 90's my son is telling me to make one too show him. I keep telling him how good they are in a good box.
I have a Kicker Comp R 12 in a sealed Sound Ordinance box at 1.27 cubic feet and a Kicker Comp VR 15 in a sealed BBOX at 2.06 cubic feet in a 2014 Passat. They both get extremely low with the seats folded up playing in the 20 hertz range
Hey bro, I hope you’re reading this. Please take note to use the remote wire from the cigarette lighter in the storage compartment armrest. In between the front seats. As that is the only true ignition wire that you can use and that will solve your amp from turning on and off every time you open and close a door.
Those opening edits are a masterpiece! I was hoping you'd remove the radiators and seal the opening to make it a sealed box and then do a direct comparison of the output. I'd really like to know the dB increase just by adding the radiators.
@@JasonWW2000 I'll have to agree with @AdrenalineHigh subwoofers have different box tuning suggestions for their sealed and ported design. 2 cubic feet is far too large for most 12 inch sealed enclosure.
I went ahead and used a box building program using these passive radiators and compared it to a sealed box. So if anyone wants to know, adding the passive radiator really is like adding a port. You can get a 6-8 dB increase at the tuning frequency, but the roll off is much, much steeper.
I've had a few ideas for designing a ported enclosure that also had passives in it, my idea was to fire the passives into a large low tuned ported chamber while the active subwoofer was exposed to the environment
I'd try using your dats system to find you tuning of your sealed side with the passives, and I'd try tuning the port led chamber at that and see where it goes
Very cool. I have always thought that proper passive radiator setups sounded great musically even though there have been many people that say to stay away from them. I never really understood the hate for them when my ears liked what I was hearing.
My thoughts exactly. I think people focus too much on trending builds than the science available. Passive Radiators are very simple and should at least be tried.
@@BudgetBassHead I think after most people experience the extension down low they can add it could bring a lot of people around to them. It's one thing to watch it on a video and another thing to hear and feel it for yourself.
Its because its in between sq and spl. Sound in the upper frequencies of bass have a slightly blurred sound sometimes as compared to sealed and although they have better output, its not as much as ported. The only problem with this is most people are bent one way or the other. I personally like p.r. s, i have had the slaps and i currently have the pump . They are great for a daily driver and have near sealed box sq.
Kicker is known for using a passive radiator. If you see a kicker sealed enclosure with two 12s and they look like two different subwoofers, one is a sub and the other is the passive radiator
You are right with you don't need a trunk full of subs. Back in the early 90s a friend of mine put a system in his 79 Pontiac Bonnevile 2 door. He had two Rockford Fosgate 15 inch woofers in a homemade sealed box stuffed in the trunk for bass, two Pioneer 4 way 6x9s mounted to the rear deck set for mids and highs, and a 1,000 watt amp for power. It wasn't anything fancy but it sure had some good bass for a throw together system.
I love this sort of stuff. 32 years ago probably I made my first car audio setup. I had found 8x ok full range drivers from a scrap yard. I put 8 in a parcel shelf of my ford Escort MkIII In the UK. I wired it to make the same impedance 2 in parallel in series with another 2 in parallel per side. I had probably an amplified EQ . Max 100W I guess. It was huge. lol After that I built a huge box with 2x 10" Pro Plus then i put them in an Austin Mini with the 2x 10" Pro plus in 2x sealed boxes and 1x 18" in the rear shelf but modified, i cut the rear seats out! Later i put 2x 15" in the rear shelf. In the front i had 4x kenwood co-axial facing the driver and 2x Kenwood 150W tweeters on top reflecting back from the windscreen. Everything was amped up Kenwood except the 4x mids/fullrange which were running direct from the head unit. first it was a pioneer 9100 and then a 9500 flip front cassette bot with remote that had the learn function (which I still have in storage) and a small multi play all mounted in the dash behind a lockable steel panel with a fake ford radio hiding the yale lock. All hidden behind acoustic cloth. Shame i crashed the car. Oh well, it's a good story now but that car would be worth around 30,000 if i still had it now. That's the way she goes when we get a bit loose! Shit. I just destroyed my pasta. lol
I would really like to see that sub centered and the radiators to the outside that way you don't have one reacting slightly faster than the other.. I would also like to see there were two of the radiators on the back side and the sub on the front side since they are moving in opposite you would get less cancellation and it would deepen up a bit and get louder because of the radiators faced at the trunk and would give a little bit of time for the waves to realign and not act outta phase as bad.. this is why when you see Bluetooth speakers and a lot of passive radiator stuff they tend to be on the back side not always but a good portion... But great job I love passive radiators and it's always fun to experiment and have new ideas.. from my experience just because it looks good on paper doesn't mean it works great in the real world so experimentation is always key...
You are correct. The best performance will be powered subwoofer forwards, and 1-12 inch slaps backwards. Passives need 2x air disp., NOT 2x cone area. His 12 inch nvx can only disp. 180 cu. in. of air, and 1-12 inch slaps can disp. 452 cu. In of air= 250% more disp., i mentioned this in more detail to this youtuber, in a prior comment, i hope he reads it? So this enclosure could be half this size, and get better results!
This is genius man really. I intend on following your example here for myself. I ain't gonna make no video but im dead ass serious about replicating it with the specs of my whip. I'm 5 months late but THANK YOU Sir. You've made a very impressive video here and it's 💯 correct everything you said and you didn't just prove it you even beat your original estimate. I just don't have the words... Just thank you for this knowledge. I'm putting it to use.
Passive radiator set ups are classified as ported boxes since the radiator basically has the same function as a port. The difference is how the port or radiator is tuned. In general, if you want to lower the tuning frequency of a ported box, you lengthen the port and/ or make it a smaller diameter. In a passive radiator set up, you add mass to the radiator. Both do the same thing, they change the resonant frequency of the enclosure. Ported and passive radiator setups share the same characteristics, in general you get a nice boost above the tuning frequency, and a steep roll off below it. I've modeled and tested both setups and if tuned to the same frequency, the sound and output are very similar. The main advantage of pr setups is you can tune low without having a long port, which makes it ideal for compact set ups that simply cannot accommodate a long port due to size restrictions.
Always been a fan of sealed enclosures, 6th order being a second favorite 👍 My fav systems of the past were 4 12" gold letter kickers sealed on a zed Zeus and 4 15 gold letters on a zed colossus. Still have the amps but unfortunately not the subs 😒
@@undernature2799 yes sir. Have a couple stillwater gems also, the 500si,200si and a 100si. Back then it was roughly a dollar a watt instead of a dime but the quality shows the 90 cents difference in today's amplifiers
Hmm nice experiment here but like i tell everyone XMAX IS KEY THE MORE 1ONE BY INCHES IN AND OUT THE DEEPER THE LOWS This is real science apply what you are doing here sir thank you. THE NATURE OF SOUND IS EPIC BY FAR.
Awsome information video. The showing the 40hz moving the active driver and then lower on the radiators was kool. I had no idea thats what those did and i wunder why more arent using to get more out of thier builds. More room means more room to play in
PLEEEAAASSE please devote a full DETAILED video for sketchup!! I am a box designer/builder who has always used WinISD to model my enclosures and have been successful, but more and more people are wanting to know what their enclosure will look like before dropping a large deposit and committing to the project. I have tried using sketchup and have (after many many hours) made 3d renderings, just to not be able to export the file to my email to share it with the customer. but i would love to be able to create a rendering without spending so many hours correcting mistakes.
I would really like to see the same test but with the the sub and PRs on opposite sides of the box so everything is pushing and pulling in the same direction
Been digging passive radiators for over 20 years. Don’t buy them, I take my old blown subs and remove the motor then fill the dust cap with wax and lead pellets. P.R.’s are often as much if not more than many subwoofers. These earthquakes seem to be quite the banging budget basshead bad boys. May actually have to buy a couple. Funny story the first one I made was an 8” that I paired with a 12”…. Yeah learned that lesson quickly. 🤣
Wow! Ive been doing car audio since 1984 lol, and Ive heard about using passive radiators throughout, but it seemed so complicated, and seemed like the rewards were minimal. But your tutorial here is simply Mindblowing!! This will be one of my near future builds in one of my cars. Excellent video, thank you!! Subbed!!!!
@BudgetBassHead will do, will probably begin in a few months. I'm probably going to look into either a couple 8s or a 10, using the same M12 passive radiators. I'll see how it looks on computer modeling first before I start the build. Thx!!
I went to college with this guy. Who had 3 12$ in a slim line box. All the way at the end of his trunk. Let me tell you one of the hardest hitting systems I've ever heard till this day I'll never forget it. Idk what it was about it . But it wasn't more than 50o watts at max! And it rivaled most systems of now a days I swear!
Hey man your videos have come a long way. Watched a few prior but you've really upped ur game. You've got a new subscriber here... And yeah I would like to see more on the sketchup of different enclosures. As you requested I'm commenting here to request just that... Really like the technical aspect of your videos!
I have a pair of these 15" next subs I bought like 4 yrs ago brand new still lol I hooked 1 up and played it about 4hrs worth in a temporary setup with the next jad1200 amp and man I was impressed, however I sold that truck so all my stuff is just waiting on me to do my next build 😆 went all nvx with subs, amps, and mids. Even though its been a few years and newer stuff may be out now I'm still impressed with nvx for sure
I built a thin sealed truck box for my Samarai back in 89-90 with a 12" CV and a passive radiator and it was one of the most effective builds I ever had. Less than 200 Watts. In a convertible so the sound would carry.
Love this build and approach. No need to give up your trunk to get sub-40Hz extension. I love deep sub bass but, am not a fan of ported enclosures. The bass they create is many times just loose and flabby. No detail. Great solution here. Those glamour shots of the NVX sub are outstanding. Very well done video. Like those two furry woofers too! Lol!
I've built a sealed 3.2cubic ft 3/4" birch box for a 12" Massive Audio Summo XL AND two of these M12s. Going to run a 3k at 2ohms to the dvc 4ohm sub to it, leave it turned down at first, but super stoked the prs came today!
I did a 143 at 36Hz on 499w clamped in competition with two vcw12s on a JAD1200.1. 4.2 cuft net and 6" aero port at 27Hz. Changed to an 8" aero at 35Hz and saw a 144.5. Shortened the port to 44Hz tune and did a 147 on 940w. Same setup but I had better electrical to support it.
@@BudgetBassHead I built this before I even knew about spl metering or competitions. Just enjoyed good music and the engineering behind sound and I over built it a little... Next goal is 150db on the same two 12s now that I understand how this all works. First time on the meter I did a 140 on the windshield on Spotify music, haha! Need to get a meter of my own to do more testing and squeeze everything out of this system before I change it up.
@@thelifeofriley815 Probably gonna take somewhere between 2000 to 3000 watts of clamped power to get 150DB, but u already did the hard part, with getting the enclosure more efficient, now cram the power to her! Good luck, you got this!
@@evilinside5984 thanks! I’m looking to grab a 5k since my 1200.1 is dying on me. I’m going to build a new box and make a few adjustments too. Should get there.
@@evilinside5984randomly came back to this video while searching RU-vid. Does 148.6 at 2600 and 149.2 at 4400. The 1200w subs are about maxed out. Starting to buy all the equipment to do proper testing and tuning. Dats, rta, spl meter, etc.
What would be the most interesting next would be to remove the two passive radiators place the box back in it's loudest position and test just the subwoofer, then add one passive radiator test it. I'm curious how each one affects it
Thank you, you saved me a lot of money, time, resources and labor costs. I just have to work the math out properly in order to pair the right passives with the right subs
@@BudgetBassHead Yea you have no idea how much it helped, was initially going for the nvx 12 inch but im deciding to save a bit more and buy one HIPPO XL 2000w 10 inch which plays louder, uses more power and has way more excursion compared to the 12 and 10 inch nvx offerings. Still though, im going to use passive radiators with it, two 10 inch slaps and run the math through the app winisd to get the box size i want for the frequency i want, i wanna tune for 30-37hz. My aim is to have a box smaller than yours since im using 10 inch subs that have slightly bigger magnets but get the same or greater spl output and frequency compared to yours, tho needing more power to do it, just less space (i think). Its going to go in the back of a 2016 ford everest with the third row seats staying up. With the sub/box facing the ceiling.
Just make sure to get a passive with @ least 2x piston area= not 2x cone area, the guy in this video only needs 1 of these slaps 12inch passives. And dont run them on the same plane=not the best performance. You can run 1 of these 12inch slaps to 1 powered 12inch sub with 25mm of 1 way x max, or less. Best performance is had with powered sub forwards, and passive backwards, and use a woofer that sounds great in a sealed enclosure, and use sub. Mfg. Sealed box cu. Ft. Rec. Specs= not the ported specs like most people think, if you dont believe me call earthquake and ask the owner/designer, i did!
Bro!! Thank you for making this video!! It is very inspiring to try and attempt my own build. I'm definitely considering the passive woofer now that I understand how big a difference it can make!! Thanks again
This might be the solution! I’ve been wracking my brain over an under seat sub install in my truck with dual DC m4 8” and could not get a reasonable port size and air speed. The stats with these on winisd blow the ported out of the water 🤯
Thank you for putting this excellent video out here. I have the same 12 inch earthquake radiator running with a 12 inch FI Q in a 1.2 CF3 sealed box for my Ram 1500. Absolutely love it. I never messed with the weights as I do like feeling those low ~20 Hz notes hit. I will play with this for a while and remove the weights to increase tunning frequency. I am also only running 1kW using an infinity kappa 1. Great video!
@@Moegneto Is your 12 inch slaps passive the m12, or the regular? Also i love fi subwoofers, i bet your q 12, with that slaps, sounds tight, accurate, and deep!? Please elaborate for me on the sq, and output.
@@evilinside5984 The model of the passive radiator is the Earthquake Slaps-M12. My enclosure is an Atrend Ram 1500 under seat dual 12 sealed with bedliner finish. The subwoofer is a 12 inch Fi Q12 with following specs. It is wired with both voice coils in series to get a 2 Ohm load for my amplifier. Q12 DUAL 1 ohm Fs: 28.4 Hz Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil Qms: 05.39 Qes: .49 Qts: .45 Mms: 211g Cms: 0.15mm/N Sd: 481cm^2 Vas: 48.3 l Spl: 85.4dB 1W/1m Bl: 10.4 N/A Xmax: 27mm Rms: 1000W Sealed box: .8-1.5 cuft Ported box: 1.8-2.5 cuft @ 28-33Hz Sub OD: 12.500” Cut ID: 11.125” Mounting depth: 7.000” Displacement: 0.16cuft I had to use two 3/4 inch mdf spacer rings to be able to mount the the subwoofer in the enclosure due to mounting depth. This required me to raise my rear seats by 2 inches to account for additional height of full box assembly (used kit from FoxBox). Driving the subwoofer is the infinity kappa k1000 Monoblock Class D. I am very pleased with the sound. I will say something that may not be popular with Fi fans. The previous subwoofer I had in there was an infinity Kappa 120.1 wired down to two ohms powered by an infinity 5 channel Class D with 500Watt RMS dedicated to sub channel and I loved it! It was perfect for all around music listening and did excellent with low deep notes. The reason I changed to Fi was that I got an excellent deal on them (have two) and I assumed I could get more output. With the change of subwoofers and added amplifier, the overall output is certainly higher but I feel the Kappa 12 was a better all around sub due to the different music I listened to. The Fi excels when it comes to Hip hop and dance-like music but it’s not as good when listening to classic rock and country. The trade off has been that the Fi has much better excursion and allows the Passive radiator to shine a bit more. Now I know some will say the Fi could use a bit more airspace than the Kappa 12 and I am sure that’s true. I just don’t have the space and don’t want to buy another box (just yet, fox box makes larger volume enclosures). With the combination of sound deadening through out truck and soundstage, I am very pleased to jump in my truck daily and jam out. I can fill the cabin with high quality sound as well as roll down the windows and let my neighbors know I’m outside. My sound stage is composed of four 6x9 JBLs and a pair of 3.5 JBLs in the front all driven by 5 channel Infinity Class D amplifier. Head unit is an Android aftermarket DVD head unit with built-in DSP. Hope this helps as I am a huge car audio fan and love to watch and read about what others are doing out there. What project do you have going on?
Omg this is the preacher who loves the lg V60. I'm watching on a v60. I don't really need this info but better to double check. I have a custom tuned box. In a single cab pickup. This is too boomy my gosh seal it. So we did. Its still going. Edit: sometimes you need a underarmour model to slide in the new subs. No way im strong enough.
Cool vid man and i definitely love the idea of passive radiators or just creative builds all together. I actually used a 4in subwoofer to push a 15im sub in a molded plastic enclosure nack in the late 90s. The results were pretty impressive since i was getting almost that same output at just a few hundred watts as i was if was to hook up the 15in itself. Obviously if i threw more power at the 15 it would definitely be louder, but nevertheless cool that a 4in moved that much arin in the enclosure to make the 15 resonate the way it did.
I just watched a couple of your videos for the first time. Fantastic job. At first I thought this was a actual commercial for NVX subwoofer, your editing and close up shots were spot on. Keep up the good work! You just got a new subscriber.
It would really be cool too to see you get do 2-8 and then utilizing it 12 in passive radiators you also be able to shrink it a little bit and should relatively get about the same output I'm just saying testing wise it would be cool
I just saw some slap info. It said it's recommended to mount the slap on the back or outside corner of the box. Not directly next to the powered sub. It lowers the performance
passive radiators are used as a port replacement or in place of a port they add extra group delay and en up sounding a bit more sloppy, but they can keep a small box small kicker uses them in small boxes, jbl uses then in their small bluetooth speakers keeping them water tight, also you dont have to worry about port air velocity if you use radiators totaling 2 times the excursion of the active driver, ill stay away from them but they are very cool
also thats way too much air space for that sub, 1.75-2 cf max tune it to 35, you could have even more space back and it be more cubic, i bet itd sound way better too not as loud but much better sounding more usable bass
I want more lol u should teach wood working... i hope you have had enough inquiries.. now I'm bout to run thru all your videos.. Great Info.. will subscribe!
