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Locktite makes a great retaining compound. Those 8N's had either a .040 or a .090 dry liner, I always used the locktite retainer when putting new liners in.. A little note, if I had to guess by all the damage, this motor was an ether "addict". Hate that stuff. Used to tell my customers, 'if you find a can of starting fluid in my shop, I'll give you 20.00$. Never use ether, use WD-40 or a rag soaked in gas held next to the air intake will help start a low compression engine, just never use ether......
Wow! I'm wondering why on earth the previous rebuilder hone'd the crap out of those bores(?) I worked for a Ford/Ferguson dealer in Neffs, PA, back in the 70's. In my experience those liners are made to fit "TIGHT". When we installed 8n liners we had the parts-guy stop at the Lehigh Valley Dairy on his way to work that morning and buy a 25-pound box of dry ice. After a cold soak for about five minutes in the dry ice the liners would slide right in. Because the liners are so thin we found the best way to get them out was to use a fairly long and specially ground cold-chisel, which was ground smooth on one side. With the smooth side against the bore wall, you could "carefully" split the liner to get it out. We found the liners to be too thin and too soft to get them out with a puller because the puller-plate would sometimes slip past the end of the liner and wedge itself into the bore... and in the worst case crack the block. No sir... an 8n is not supposed to have slippy-slidey cylinder liners. Someone really screwed the pooch on that rebuild. I hope you can salvage that block.
I figured cylinder sleeve right off the bat, but I do appreciate your courage in disassembling the engine that far yourself. I'm not sure I have the tools or the inclination to attempt that myself.
Yup on the blue paint. There’s a flyer image floating around getting tractors refreshed to Ford Blue at the dealership. If the block is good there’s plenty of parts out there.
Looking forward to see the progression on the rebuild. I have a 1948 BMC tractor a 425 with an industrial head on it that is to say my radiator grill is the warehouse industrial version
it looked like a lot of #2 con rod play at the crank end when you wiggled the piston. by the way,any nerve damage in your left hand after removing the cyl head nuts?
1:30 in the video, I think it is a crankshaft shell bearing and pieces of either a crankshaft bearing or con rod mount bearing / shell. Now to the rest of the video. Edit: I never thought of the sleeves dropping and shattering. I have had a Renault 4 where number 1 piston was completely smashed and number 2 piston was only half there and the engine still ran, although very smokey. Never before have I seen or known sleeves drop before.
i used to work in an engine rebuilding shop back in the mid 90's. they are closed now. the boss fired the guy doing the boring and honing . while sleeving a straight six continental engine.. one that had been rebuilt many times before. he cut all the way thru the bottom steps on the block so the sleeves would be unsupported at the bottom. he also screwed up the bore size as the sleeves fell thru the block when the owner tried to install them. since we were not in the best area i stayed late with the boss while he bored and honed a bunch of blocks for the next days production. i had learned to bore and hone 15 years before in school but i had not done enough to take over this job position. i noted that when he set the dial bore gauge in the setting master that the indicator needle bounced as it came to a rest.. i stopped him.. it should not do that.. we looked carefully . the setting masters had divots in the end from the carbide balls rubbing them as they bore gauge was set in and readjusted perhaps 100+ times a day. when the sunnen rep came the next day.. he left his setting kit and took ours.. he said he had never seen so much wear before.. all of a sudden all the bore sizes were accurate again. this is probably what happen to this tractor block.. when sleeves get installed sometimes they get a high temp adhesive on the outside as they are pounded into place.. you probably knew the block was overbored for sleeves but now you know why it happens..
@@luvr381 absolutely.. and it was his nephew also. i saw the nephew drop a 318 piston pin for a full floating application.. i ask if it had a bur on the end from hitting the concrete .. nah. i went on about my business.. he honed the heck out of the small end bearing and piston to get that damaged pin to fit. i did not catch it until the car owner came back with a double pin knock.. i knew what it was as soon as i opened the hood.. tore the engine out.. found the offending piston.. took it out.. put a new bushing in the rod.. new piston and pin.. a fresh set of rings on that piston and it was fixed.. the customer was crazy happy.. i was furious.. so i was glad to see him go. even though that ment more work..
wayne p: good explanation. This subject hits a nerve. I dropped off my standard cylinders (`67 Hog) at the dealer, Pacific H.D. This was in 1973. They screwed up the bore to .060 in. over and they were off center. Then they ordered sleeves from the mainland and it took 30 days! They tried to get me to pick up the molested cylinders.
Nice job look fwd to seeing it rebuilt and running. You can learn a lot from your viewers as many of them are professional mechanics. I learn from my viewers on my channel too. I agree with many of them use those box ends, breaker bars and deep sockets. You'll find the job goes easier on you, the parts and your tools. Thanks for a fun and educational video, thumbs up! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I found a chunk of metal in the lower radiator hose while working on my Ferguson TO-20. Looks like zinc. Did they put zinc anodes in there the prevent rust back in the day? If not, I have random metal parts in my cooling system...
You're all kinds of high class. When I fixed the 8n I had, i blocked the transmission and engine, pulled the front axle off. Then slid the engine out from the transmission while still sitting on the blocks. Then I set the engine on it's side on the same block and tore it down. Put it back together. Stood back on the oil pan and slid it back together. But i was younger and stronger (dumber) at the time.
Not very mechanically inclined but we have a Ferguson to30 that’s very similar to the 8n. I’m going to guess either a cylinder wall or a piston is bad. Let’s find out!
Good day Daniel I live up here in Ont. Last week on kijiji there was a flat head ford V/8 for free, & being older mind doesn't think as guick, never thought of that Thanks
@@donvoll2580 The nut that holds the wheel controls what parts will break. Oh! Ya! Don't show off pulling wheelies with your dad's tractor, breaking an axle. He get MAD!
Speaking from personal experience, the worst thing I have found was a lifter sitting in the big ripped-open gash in the oil pan, as oil and coolant were running on the ground. That's the result of a rod breaking and knocking the sides of the block out. Close second was finding a valve head embedded in the combustion chamber with a massive hole in the piston. Catastrophic failures are the worst.
That there is bearing leavins or liner if those are liner pieces a little oil light hone and your mint them are those super fancy parts what self clearance
I put a 263 straight 8 out of a Buick in my 8n. Had a bell housing adapter made, bought a junk donor tractor to lengthen everything by 14" including the hood. New factory radiator still had a problem cooling, electric fan helped, I ended up selling it at the Mecum Gone Farmin auction 4 years ago, don't know where it ended up, was a lot of fun though!
BOO! Happy Halloween! Scary goings on with that engine for sure. I have been there. Restoring a 1940 Deere B with similar issues. I now have more in the engine than I paid for the tractor. New block, pistons, rings, repoured babbit bearings, head totally redone. The list goes on and on......... Good luck and keep us posted. Good news is you can find the parts for a rebuild.
I know all about broken metal part in a rank case looks like. This past summer I built a Farmertec ms 361 kit saw. I did not realize the piston was not relieved properly and was kissing the crank counterweights at bdc. After seven tanks it ate its piston. I have rebuilt this saw with a new crank, piston and cylinder. I did check it to make sure the new piston was not hitting the counterweights. It is running fine, now and has cut a lot of wood.
That reminds me way back in 1978 a young man who worked for me was servicing an Army Gamma Goat,noticed a little water in the center differential.Upon draining the diff.he found several Grade 8 3/8 bolts came out of the drain hole.They were the bolts that hold the ring gear to the ring gear carrier.Onlt time I ever saw that happen.
7:25 You had a lot of play on that connecting rod too. I would definitely let a professional machine shop mic everything out. That crank probably needs to be turned and a new set of matched bearings installed.
As a machinist I can tell you that the block can be bored, an custom sleeves made fairly easily. Somebody oversized the sleeve bores in the last rebuild. Also, a narrow straight knurl near the lip may help hold the new ones in place. Also, just 8 No .com has all kind of cool parts including blocks, etc.
Thank you! The problem I’m running into is finding a local shop that is willing to do the work. The only place I’ve found so far won’t guarantee anything and wants a $2k deposit up front. I may end up having to travel a few hundred miles to find someone I can work with.
I think your vidio is very interesting I’m going to be doing a Ford 2000 1964 rebuild still runs but tired it’s amazing a lot of comments are from guys who watch how you hold a wrench and not what your doing keep up the videos lookin forward to part 2 thanks. Kozbilt
i had a similar issue with a 39 flathead ford...how I resolved it was using toyota sleeves which are slightly larger in diamater.. and rebored to finish size.. always bore block for sleeves leaving a slight lip on bottom for sleeve to stop against.
Doug Anderson he did ask EVERYONE not just a few people he put his input in and your shooting it down your real smart eh got nothing better to do then to cause keyboard wars on yt
My 1940 9n was worse when I rebuilt it 30 yrs ago. Spent more on parts and machine work on the little thing than I did nn most race motors back then. Upside is it still runs as good today as it did right after its resurrection. These are fine old tractors!
Wow, this video should be rated R for intense horror and gore! I was surprised to see such big chunks in the drain pan. I'm used to pretty small drain plugs on newer engines, and even the big drain plugs on the LDT-465 multifuel engines in my 2.5-ton 6x6 trucks have holes smaller than those chunks. I hope that block is salvageable.
Didn't venture a guess, though I could tell from the size of the initial pieces it wasn't bearings. I don't know much about tractor engines to be honest, didn't think about the cylinders being lined. But looking at the carnage that must have sounded AWESOME when those sleeves let go. 😬😖
I suspect the sleeves were loose from the get-go when the engine was last overhauled. Maybe a slip fit, but not a press fit like they should be. Eventually they hammered loose, then hammered to pieces.
On a truck I knew the wet liners had to be clamped when the pistons were to be moved or else leaks started. On a car the liner had an air pocket at back so that piston blew a hole with overheating. {UK 2020}
