Gotta give Travis Logie and Dane Zaun an A for effort. It would have been worth it IF the sand bar was working. Thanks for watching! I'm Brad Jacobson and I'll sea ya on the sand.
I am now almost 57 years old and surfed this place decades ago… 80s and 90s. I turn your channel on watch the latest video while I’m brushing my teeth in the morning. I am magically whisked back to some of the best days of my life as a teenager surfing the Southbay. Thanks so much Brad.
This duck dive bs is East Coast Florida any time it gets size. As far as wave shape, Floridas Cocoa Bch etc areas have mostly small trashy surf. Thats one main reason Crawford, Slater, and the Hobgoods excelled in larger, better shaped waves. Its because they ripped Floridas every day garbage.
Any surfer will tell you paddling out is more than half the battle a lot of the time. The water is to deep here that’s why the waves are slow and just mush instead of pitch. Looks better from the beach then it actually is.
I've got hip dysplasia from big wave surfing... I got drilled hard, slammed like a pancake by fifteen-foot race outsider on Christmas day when I was 17. Now I'm 53 and there's no padding between my femur 🦴 and my pelvic bone and you can't imagine the pain I go through daily. Going through all the hoops just to get a hip replacement now. Just the same, this still brings back other great memories for me. Shaka 🤙🏼
Mush or closeout days are pretty common when it's overhead here in Florida, my solution is grab the 7 foot foamie and glide into the sets and hold on and see what happens
I was there, really hard to catch waves, and the good peaks were mostly taken.. the usual. Still was impressed by the amount of people out on such size surf. I was there for an hour and got one wave myself that mushed out. I like the commentaries too, fun vid!!
Nice looking waves though still ,thank you Brad for the video ! Maybe the sand bar had enough from those bigger swells" but still pretty nice out there size wise !
funny they went home an told everyone they killed it won the contest an caught 40' plus waves, naw just kidding, they had a great day an at least got a great workout. some day's are good some day's not so good but they went out an that's half the job the other part is having fun, made my day keep the stoke no bad day's
I grew up sponging in SoCal, then I went to Hawaii, and when I returned to CA, I simply stopped surfing because SoCal is such freezing cold junk waves compared to HI. Endless closeouts, crowds, nothing interesting. Once you surf Hawaiian power, it changes everything.
I was going to say the same thing with the first two guys that were trying to catch it on the inside if they weren't panning out why don't you paddle up the further and see if you can catch some of those nuggets as Tanner did. I mean you just getting the crap beat out of you anyway. Again great job of getting the video on this Epic 2 weeks of surfing. RLTW 3/75
