Think Twice Before Buying Reusable Air Filters: Here is Why 

never had any problems out of any of my k&n filters, or the aem dry filter on my 7.3.

I installed a K&N filter on my new 99 Suburban. Almost 18 years later, It now has 403K miles on it and it has never required engine work. I think I cleaned that filter maybe five times since I put it in. I remember thinking I could tell a difference in acceleration after installing, but maybe that was all in my mind. In any case I think it's best to keep an open mind and try things to see what works best for a given situation. I started using K&N in the mid 80's because i did a lot of river crossings and K&N allowed me to keep going while the filter was pretty wet; paper would never hold up in that situation.

I own a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD and I installed a Banks Ram Air intake system at around 120,000 miles. I clean and oil the filter every 12,000 miles and I enjoy showing people the odometer reading whenever I can. Just passed 480,000 miles and it still runs and sounds brand new! I average 18 mpg. Proper maintenance is key with the reusable filters.

Ive run a K&n cold air intake with metal tube for few years and it has made a huge difference for my engine

Good info. The only reason I installed a cold air intake on my truck was because the fender housing was always crammed with leaves that I couldn't clean out without taking apart the fender. I like the ease of installation and for what K/N charges versus paper filters, it has paid for itself tenfold. If oil is on the MAF or in the tube then too much oil is being applied. It needs a very light oil coat. Love your videos, thanks for what you do.

Used K&N for years, on my used Dodge Charger from 50K to almost 200K, never had an issue with cleaning it.

Had to watch the video again as I am about to purchase a CAI. Was on the fence on whether to purchase a dry, or oiled, filter. This video helped on making my decision. Thanks Brian.

If u drive on dirt roads or lots of dust like construction, snow, heavy rain I would use the paper filter. If u are on clean streets and highways I see no problems with the K&N style cold air intakes. Always have 2 filters so when u clean one and let the oil dry u are covered. Do not over oil and give plenty of time to dry before use.

I gave a reuseable high flow and oiled air filter a try being used in my car for two years. I realized that I lost low end torque with that filter because when i changed back to a paper filter after two years, I noticed a significant increase in my front end torque according to the seat-of-my-pants dyno.

Automotive manufacturer’s engineers don’t design what is the best and most long lasting; they design what is cheapest and most cost effective to manufacture. As long as it survives until the end of the warrantee, it is considered to be a successful design.

I've had no problems with my K&N cold air intake. Then again it's the plastic tube and draws air from the fender. I also clean it like I'm supposed to and do a very light coat of oil. I've had no issued with over 5000 miles on it. The day I put it on in combination with my magnaflow catback exhaust I noticed a definite increase in acceleration.

I've got 240,000 on my 2000 Silverado and the k&n was installed at 29,000. I changed the intake gaskets at 220,000, and saw no dust, dirt, or oil buildup inside. There were no real performance gains felt when I first installed it. It was mainly a financial decision, to save on buying filters. I understand that results may vary from make to make, but I have been more than pleased over the years. The way I see it, if you are in tune with your vehicle, and keep up on maintenance, you would know very quickly if a filter is causing issues. However, I know that most folks are not "car guys" and know very little about how their vehicle functions besides putting gas in it. I recently purchased a 01 Taurus with bad headgaskets to flip. Searching RU-vid for instructional videos on the job, I found your channel. I want to thank you for your extremely detailed tutorial. This is my first Ford in over 15 years, and my have things changed! However, I am confident that I can see the job done, and done right after watching your video. Thanks again for making this video, it was insightful and well done. I was unaware of the issues that you covered. When I complete a full service on the Taurus, it will not be getting a K&N as previously planed. Keep up the good work, I will continue to watch for new videos :)

I am a Ford retiree who started my career with Ford at Cleveland Engine Plant 1, 'Home Of The 302', in Brookpark, Ohio. I personally have used K&N air filtering products in Ford vehicles since 1986, when I installed one in my first Mustang GT(also had an '88). I've since used them in an '89 Escort GT, A '90 Ford Ranger, a '93 F 150 Lightning, a '96 Bronco, 2001 and 2003 Ranger pickups. A 2004 Mercury Marauder( complete K&N cold air intake on the Marauder), An '04 F 150 Lariat, an '07 Expedition XLT, and most recently, a used 2008 Taurus X Limited, which I bought to keep from running miles up on the Marauder, which after 11 years, still has only 36,000 miles on the odometer. I won't own a Ford vehicle without installing a K&N filter in it. From my own experience, a K&N air filter will provide better airflow with 35,000 miles of dirt, than a brand new paper filter, regardless of the paper filter brand. And I've NEVER had a dirty intake, downstream of the installed K&N air filter, on any of my vehicles! An internal combustion engine is basically an air pump, and the very best paper filter made, will only serve to choke a high performance engine, and restrict it's ability to breath. Never install a K&N air filter on a Ford vehicle with any series EEC module without first disconnecting the negative battery terminal for, at the very least, an hour. You won't see any horsepower, or fuel efficiency gains unless you perform this simple task. Doing so allows the EEC module to dump all of it's factory settings(presets), and, in effect, re-boot the EEC. This in turn allows the system to 'sense' the increased air flow from the K&N, and adjust itself accordingly, when you reconnect the battery, and start the engine. AND REMEMBER: NEVER DISCONNECT THE POSITIVE TERMINAL FIRST! THERE IS A HIGH RISK OF FRYING YOUR EEC MODULE IF YOU DON'T DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FIRST! There is, in fact, no good reason to even disconnect the positive battery terminal for this procedure. Try it! You'll see an improvement. Don't have an opinion on K&N oil filters... Never used one!

I run KN intakes on all my vehicles, I also tune them and replace the stock MAF. It's night and day difference. I also clean and service it properly never have anything but a clean intake tube. To me more horsepower, mpg, and higher top speed is worth the extra money.

I have a k&n on my prius. now before you laugh I put it on to keep things clean and to boost mileage. I gained about 3 mpg give or take. also I have never had an issue with the MAF or it being dirty and the throttle body is bright and clean still after many years

I've noticed a good difference between oem and aftermarket My wife's jeep is much more stiff oem compared to after market and I can see that would help keep a good seal

Indeed, the re-usable filters may seem like a great idea but I believe it was Cummins that did a test and it showed that switching from a paper filter caused a significant increase in silica in the oil samples as well as signs of increased engine wear compared to the paper filters. For offroad, a big paper filter seems to be the best idea. More flow will help only if the paper filter is causing a restriction. Even a pretty filthy paper filter on my diesel won't trip the restriction gauge. Filter flows far more than the engine can use.

My '07 Focus came used with a K&N intake and filter. MAF sensor is squeaky clean (cleaned 10k ago) idles normally. I oil it at the recommended intervals. I think if installed and maintained properly, they do a fine job.

Years ago when I bought a K&N (cotton/oil) filter I also bought the stock paper version (Motorcraft) and datalogged both on similar wot pulls. I too was skeptical. I consistently logged higher MAF counts with the K&N pulls. And the counts' deacceleration rate was less as RPMs increased - an indicator of decreased restriction. This was on a mildly blown 2002 Mustang.

Thank you for this video. Very good information and you just saved me a few $$$ on a aftermarket filter that I don't need.

Well, of course you're going to recommend the Motorcraft products. I have never had an issue with a K&N product.

KNN intake and aftermarket MAFs on most all my vehicles. Since I clean my filters every oil change like my ATVs you could see an example of it done right. I also gained at least 12 plus horse. Which requires a good tuner, less restricted MAF and intake.

I recently purchased a K&N CAI for my standard 2000 v6 and it added quite a bit of horsepower and I didn't get a tuner either it also makes the car run a lot smoother!

I have heard that the oiled filters can reduce air flow when initially installed because they need to be broken in first (ie the oil needs to thin out). However, after that, they usually provide better air flow, and they are tested to pass procedure ISO 5011. Albeit, it is probably better to use a dry filter to prevent oil from coating any sensors.

One thing you can do if you are running an aftermarket oilable filter and are concerned about particulates coming through is use a pre-filter. This could be something of a foam variety, but from what I have been told from people that were there, The Army ended up using ladies nylons (yes, chunks of pantyhose) stretched over their vehicle air filters in the desert to keep the fine sand from clogging up the works and ruining the engines.

I found that our myself a few years back .when you put to much oil on them they contaminate the sensor and you are told you need a new sensor.I cleaned the one in my wife's car with sensor cleaner unhooked the battery and It's fine now.But at every oil change they both get cleaned.the filter get's oiled lightly.I don't know if I still have the original filter setup.But I would never buy another.And stick with Motorcraft parts.Sometimes you have to pay a little more but it's worth it in the long run.I take my Fords to my dealer that I deal with because they can do an oil change cheaper than i can.And I don't have to get dirty.

First of all I would like to say is that I do enjoy watching your videos and you have been spot on. The bad news is that I bought my K&N CAI a long time ago and it has been pretty good to me. Yes I have over oiled the filters. Yes I have had engine trouble codes due to oil on the MAF sensor. Yes I have replaced MAF sensor because it was destroyed and the trouble code would not go away. I'm not taking my CAI off the truck because I have other bolt ons that complement it. The trick is to not over oil the filter and to make sure you clean the MAF sensor with an approved cleaner.

Useful vlog, I'm definitely only going to buy decent quality filters from now on.

I have used K&N filters for years and never had any problems. To get horsepower gain you need to reprogram the computer or use a chip. Paper filters clog very quickly and this is where the K&N is better. K&N and other washable filters do let more dirt in when they are new or after they are cleaned. The oil is supposed to prevent this. It does help a lot, but not enough. However once you have been using it for a few hundred miles, the filter gets enough dirt on it to prevent this. After 3 to 5 thousand miles, the K&N will do a better job of keeping dirt out while still maintaining its airflow than a paper filter. In the long run with proper maintenance, the K&N will keep the inside of the intake system cleaner and will maintain horse power. Do that test again with the hotrod car, but use a paper filter that has been used for a couple of thousand miles. The K&N will likely be on par or better.

For oem motorcraft is actually above bar. Definitely recommend their oil, air and fuel filters.

Nice Vid as usual (especially re: the dirty air sensor)..but food for thought...Ford installed CAIF's OEM on both the Bullitt and the GT-500...obviously there are a few variables as to whether a CAI system pulls more HP from a given engine setup vs the OEM air filter system, but I think it has been well established that internal combustion engines are basically air pumps so if they breath better they make more HP...as I said, just food for thought...

I had a rigged cone air filter on my 95 Grand Cherokee when I had that. But mainly because the original system dry rotted and cracked, which dusted the intake. When I took it out the bolt heads snapped off, and I broke several bits drilling them out. So I just used self tappers for an aluminum plate, then bought some piping and a cone from Autozone. Bam, some sort of filtration system for the engine that isn't cracked. It may have not been perfect but didn't throw codes.

Ran a Dodge hemi almost 400,000 miles with K&N , still used no oil when I sold it.

I have used a K&N filter on my 94 Ranger since it had 2000 miles on it. It currently has 229000 on it with the same K&N. The throttle response was much improved by the K&N.

anyone remember oil bath filters ? cheap ( easy to build , actually) and effective one time purchase , w/ minimal maintenance ,oil changes

Thank you SO MUCH for telling everyone about the aftermarket filters like K&N. I'm so tired of people saying they put one on their vehicle and got more power & better fuel economy - bull crap.

Over 20 years using K&N air filters in ALL my vehicles and I have never had an issue with MAF sensors because I follow the K&N directions. I've yet to hear a K&N hater who actually used one.

REF: K&N air filters As a retired GM tech, I can state tell you that no one with any real 'drivability' experience would ever use a "oiled cloth" filter on a daily driver. Lest you think you got all the smarts and want your "oiled cloth" filter come hell or high water, Google up NICO Air filter test and learn about real test on numerous filters and the results that can be duplicated with zero BS excuses. K&N falls to the bottom of the list. I was surprised at how well AC Delco performed. By the way, I now drive a F150 (cause I love the 2000 flareside body style) and have no reason to promote any one brand over the other. Educate yourself and stop regurgitating all the promotional BS from the scammers.

I have been using K@N filters and intake systems on all of my Ford/Mazda and Honda cars since 1998 and have NEVER had this kind of problem! My guess is that someone either over oiled or did not oil their filter at all to cause these results.

I prefer OEM filters. I only got a K&N cabin air filter because it won't do any harm to the engine and I go through those filters quite frequently, so it made sense to get a resuable one.

Over oiling a filter and improper cleaning causes the MAF to get fouled up. Not just a K&N thing, it goes for all aftermarket CAI's that use oiled filters. I have a JLT CAI on my Mustang, following a strict procedure of how and when to clean the filter, I have yet to see any oil collect on the MAF sensor.

I call BS on anyone who says they've had issues with aftermarket intakes. I've had intakes on two of my vehicle since new and never had issues. One has been installed for over 12 years and no issues at all. The other is only a drop in filter not the whole intake for over 2 years and also zero issues. Just maintain it regularly and it breathes better especially with a low restriction exhaust.

Good video I believe that what going on with my E250 4.2 liter I have a K&N and in there I don't think is doing the proper job going with Motorcraft

Been using it on my G35 since 2009. Open it up recently to clean the MAF and throttle body. Beside a few dark carbon build up there wasn't much more. the MAF wasn't even that dirty but I clean everything. Mine fits well though and not lose like yours.

I never use FRAM filters, air or oil. K&N filter made a huge difference in my trucks horsepower since the original was not seating well to begin with. It popped up codes on my computer too. Now with the K&N system it runs great and increased my fuel mileage. Maybe using the original filter housing and reusable filters causes the problems you mention. I did use motorcraft filters before installing the new system but was having problems. I'm not a mechanic and value your expert opinions, but this one got me baffled.

Idk my k&n hasn't caused me any of these problems and has served me very well.

I switched back to my own intake after watching this video. when I took off the short ram I noticed a lot of grease and dirt coating my throttle body and inside the short ram tube, my air sensor got it too. I had the short ram on for about 20k....do u think it did damage. also my OEM air box was dusty when I installed it I forgot to clean it... again will this harm the engine? Car is 2010 civic 1.8L with 100.000k on it, car is currently running smoothly.

In 2008 I installed the K & N filter in NM on my 2008 F150 5.4L. After few months I noticed a fine streak of dust buildup on the curve of the intake tube nearest the intake manifold. I contacted K & N customer support and they refused to answer questions after I provided pictures. Since 2008 the truck has lived in AK, LA, NM again and now in VA. The last two times I cleaned the intake tube and the throttle body housing it seems to me there is a lot of fine dust buildup. Overall, if you routinely maintain the filter and re-oil correctly you may not have long term issues. Brian's point is simple, use a good quality filter that will get the fine/microscopic dust. I'm now in the process of going back to stock. Good video...I'll take experience over armchair QB's any day.

It depends on how much it actually affects the thermal reactivity of the mass airflow sensor. As for the horsepower increase using a K&N air flow system, did you reset the computer after you change the system in before you did the Dyno Run, like you're supposed to do?

I am also a ford technician and I agree with some of what you say but not all of it I personally run k&n on everything I own which by the way is not a ford product I drive a dodge Dakota and a vfr750f both run kn no problems and with hp gains as well

I agree with this. I have not worked on a car with a K&N, Green or any other reusable filter that did not have a thin coat of oil in the intake tract accompanied with fine grit stuck to it. I ran them when I was a younger, but won't touch them now.

Funny, my experience with K&N has been excellent. Improved throttle response and +0.5 mpg on two 2.3L Mazda 3's. My 3.0L Jag also picked up a fraction of an mpg and high RPM power, though I had no dyno to measure it on.I wouldn't bother with a cold air intake on a street car, though. Usually just turns into a rainwater intake :-D

I agree that an aftermarket intake does nothing. I remember years ago on a Mazda 6 forum guys were running a cold air intake with a larger diameter runner from the filter to the throttle body, and the MAF sat in this runner. Engines were running lean after they installed the new intake, so they would get the MAF re-calibrated to bring the afr back into check. Common thought was they were getting so much more air, they needed more fuel now so obviously they were making more power! Actually what was happening is the larger diameter runner created less velocity within the runner and the MAF read this as less air with the same throttle position. Then it would lean out the mixture to compensate. People spent a whole lot of money and hacked apart their cars for nothing.

I'm not familiar with all air filter systems or all cars but there is PLENTY of historical evidence in dyno pull after dyno pull for decades upon decades of Mustangs that proves that a quality reusable filtration system, when oiled properly and tuned, is worth additional power to the engine. Because most sports cars are built from the factory to obtain numbers that allow it to meet certain government standards. Then we tinker with them and try to get them to breathe in more air and burn more fuel. Larger and more straight paths for the air to travel to the intake create more power.

I just put a K&N filter in my remaped BMW 535 diesel. I did a dyno with the regular filter and a K&N and the difference was 13hp more with K&N.

Yea a few years ago on my '03 Grand Marquis, I put an aftermarket cone on the air intake in the fall and by winter my engine failed on me...after a big dip in my pocket I just keep the stock filter housing on.

I dunno, I have had great success with K&N filters over the years, including on a banshee with the airbox delete. I think the big problem is people don't know how to oil the filters. If they were terrible why are they on all the high end motors? My GT500 straight from Ford had it. Do I think they're useful in a diesel? Nope. But in some cars they really do seem to help with that first part of throttle response.

Bigger aftermarket intakes are not really used for their cold air as they are for more air flow. My 2008 Mustang GT drove way better when I ditched the stock intake, it used to feel like the engine was starved for air at higher rpm before I put in the new intake. And sincr then i've tuned it and it drives way better

The $40 air intake system on eBay worked well for my 05 neon. Drove it 4000 miles, 2000 was week road trip from cali to texas, no problems just need to clean soon I believe

Sweet video. Very good info! Thanks!

I agree, K&N lets all the fine stuff through, and you get dirty sensors from the oil required to contain contaminates. I made the switch back to factory elements, and foam on my quads. Now all stays clean when inspecting intake tracts.

Every video I see on this topic is contradictory to the previous. I do like the washable air filters (as long as you do not over oil them). I have seen hp gains from them (my old mustang on a dyno averaged 1-2 more hp using cotton filter vs. paper). Negligible yes. My final reason for liking CAIs is you get to hear the induction noise a little more. Keep in mind, if you are significantly changing the amount of air going into a motor via CAI and/or manifold, you must tune for it because the stock tune will not able to properly adjust fuel spray to keep a correct 14:1 air-fuel ratio.

I understand any given situation can go bad, but I honestly JUST cleaned my 7 year old K & N filter and the MAF sensor as well and ONLY the filter had some dirt and small dust particles on it.(visibly) I also went a little long in between cleanings this time which was about 3 years(I know,way too long) where as I like to do it every year. This filter has worked marvelously for me, IMHO. I do believe that over oiling and other errors may occur with other set ups though. You do make valid points my friend. Peace and God Bless you. By the way, I LOVE my 93 Lincoln Mark VIII for the record, which is the car I'm speaking of.

I've been using a K&N filter and CAI on my Ranger and haven't run into any problems with it clogging. You just have to be more on top of cleaning it regularly and not over oiling. As far as the CAI goes, the it may have been a mistake. I haven't tuned it yet so I'm definitely not gaining on power. I'll be buying a Mustang soon and will probably just get a K&N filter but leave the factory tubing.

I've had a K&N on my Ford truck for 10 years. No MAF sensor problems, no dirty intake etc., if you are having these problems 1) you are over oiling the filter 2) clean the MAF sensor every time you clean the filter.

I have used K&N filters started in 1996 K&N is the BEST more air more horse power saved a lot money to.

i have a cold air intake system for my 2.3 mustang ecoboost, but it came as a performance kit , and its the same cold air intake from the GT-350 mustangs

If you read the directions that come with the k&n filters it says to wash it in soapy water at least once a year, and let dry before you reinstall.

I have a 2000 Dodge ram 2500 turbo diesel 24 valve with 385xxx Miles on it its got a K&N filter starts first crank no codes runs great annd i dont even maintain it much.....

No way a paper filter flows better then a say like K&N ! No way!

That's excellent advice thank you I think OEM products are the best for your vehicle.

might sound a bit rough but i had some good luck cleaning my material old air filter with de greaser ( fuel couldnt clean it more ) and i seal up the gap ( slack fit ) by winding electrical tape around the edge of the air filter

Been running a K&N on my F150 since I bought it and have absolutely no issues. Actually gained over 2 mpg by switching to K&N.

I have to respectfully disagree with your assessment of K&N filters. My 2000 Focus Has 266,000 miles on it and for around 260,000 of its life, it's known nothing but a K&N filter and to be blunt, a Cold Air Filter system by AEM. The engine has been flawless and runs like a champ. My 2 cents.

I personally run a Wix Air Filter on my '07 Ford F150 5.4L never had a single issue.

Good information, thanks.

Mopar, ford, gm and others have there own colder air system like, AEM, AFE, K&N, SB, Injein because it works. For house power and better mpg.

The only problem I've had with the K&N air filter is from my own mistake where I cleaned and re-oiled it; I actually OVER-oiled it. There is a limit to how much oil you're supposed to use so, as long as you're careful about that, the filters are great and they won't destroy your engine.

as with anything car, proper maintenance is all that is needed. If you do the maintenance on the K&N filter it will do the job.

I get a new paper air filter every year when I do a thorough preventative maintenance over my entire car. It takes a few days to get everything done right and spotless but it feels like a new car afterwards.

I’ve been running K&N filters on my 01’ SVT Lightning, 1999 Ford Expedition for years now with no issues unless saving money is an issue. On the Dyno my lightning picked up 12HP with the stock style K&N filter.

Can we argue that for arguments sake K&N filters cause issues due to improper maintenance? Also isn't the claim with a K&N that it doesn't necessarily out flow a NEW paper filter but it maintains flow as it gets dirty while the paper version will usually drop CFM as it clogs up. We've only used reusable filters but I totally understand where you're coming from, interested in your opinion on my comment, thanks.

I put one of those in a 2004 mustang with the 3.9 ltr V6 was a weird yr because most yrs had the 3.8 V6 or bigger. Yet I never had an issue with the stock installation. The filter actually allowed the intake to whistle when I accelerated and it sounded like a turbo or supercharger and that’s what people would think when they rolled up alongside of me when they heard it and always wanted to race. I traded that car for my 95 corvette which I still have and haven’t looked back sense.

I took a long time for manufacturers to consider cool air intake systems for OE filter housings. Older cars had no provision for this and I always found a way to plumb cool air to my cars filters. It's nice to see that manufacturers have caught up to 1960's performance technology!

Alot of people just made comments but evidently didn't watch the video! That's really sad grown men act like that!🤦‍♂️

Quote from K&N: Every stock replacement air filter we sell comes with this sticker, which we advise consumers to place prominently on their air box. The sticker is to alert service technicians that they should not throw away your K&N air filter because it will last for the life of your vehicle. When service technicians see this sticker it means “STOP SELLING THIS CUSTOMER DISPOSABLE AIR FILTERS OVER AND OVER.” In our opinion, this is why some dealerships or service providers may attempt to discourage a consumer from using a K&N air filter or worse blame a vehicle repair on our lifetime air filter. Most dealerships provide excellent service and fulfill car warranty obligations without issue, argument or tardiness. The rest of this discussion is about a minority of dealerships who are either misguided or misinformed. We are aware of the “urban myth” (K&N News Story) created by a few dealerships that a vehicle's MAF sensor can be contaminated by K&N filter oil. No evidence has ever been provided to support this “myth” and years of diagnostic testing by K&N has shown that not only is this allegation not real, it is not even possible. In our opinion, it is an excuse for a dealership and/or the vehicle manufacturer to avoid a legitimate warranty repair. In the last 4 years, we have sold over 10,000,000 lifetime air filters and received only a few hundred calls from consumers who are having dealership or service provider challenges. We believe that Dealership's or service provider's real incentive may be to discourage the use of reusable products so they can sell disposable products over and over. In order to provide consumers with added comfort that they will not be placed in a bad position by an improper warranty denial, we offer our Consumer Protection Pledge.

Great video. For years I have been saying to car buddies the 'k&n' style filters are a waste of money, min. performance gain (if any) and filter air like dog crap. Thumbs up for telling it like it is!!

I have run k&n intakes on every vehicle I have owned and I never had an issue. Regular on time cleanings and your will be happy with your purchase!

Thats why i got the aem dry flow. No oil to worry about

There are independent air filter testing available on the internet. Often the original paper air filter is best. It has the least restriction and gets out the smallest particles. Cotton, foam, oiled cotton... you need an actual verifiable test to see what air filter actually works best. For someone who wants to keep the car forever it really does matter. For a high mileage person it matters. For someone who gets a car every 4 years it does not matter what they put on. I think a site called GM central has done independent air filter tests and, for the most part, paper has better filtering and less air flow restrictions.

i have a K&N filter on my 2016 mustang and i feel a difference. plus i also had one in my 2012 ford fiesta and have to say the intake on those fuel effecient cars its very restrictive and my fiesta has gained 4 to 5 mpg just by changing to a high flowing intake system. and alot of the times dealerships try to scare people using a aftermarket part that isnt OEM and try to say oh this is going to damage this or that they do that so they make you worry so you end up buying their stuff and no one elses thats mainly what it is.

What it's the best number motor oil for 2008 Harley Davidson 5.4L ? Full synthetic? Or what it's better to use? Thanks

thank you for saving aniexty.

Love the don't you think the engineers know that.... im sure they do and im also sure they have to get the vehicles to meet certain emmissions , mpg and other things that don't equal to more horsepower or better mpg. Sometimes they have to put restrictiors in to achieve things...

interesting, I've used them on all my quads, never a problem.

Great video, I used to argue with everyone on the FTE Excursion forum about the fact that Ford already has a cold air inlet but they insisted on hacking up the system to get cold air.

Just get a can of MAF sensor cleaner and give the sensor a good spray every once and a while.

Great lesson for honda lovers here

Recently bought a used Taurus. Found it had a flexible metal air filter. Looked like it was breaking down. Was scared that metal bits would make it into the throttle body, etc. Decided to replace it with a FRAM paper filter. The metal thing went to the recycling center. I always replace air filters on a regular basis anyway. Not worried about the whole "Might be forgotten" deal that is marketed by some other filter makers. Paper filters are super cheap at least for my Ford.

I have an AF1 CAI on my 03 Expedition. I had to fabricate an enclosure to prevent hot engine compartment air from entering the intake which uses an oiled filter. Some of the newer CAI's now come with a box. I've always just cleaned the MAF a few days after installing a freshly oiled filter. I figured the engine will suck off any oil that is excess and burn it. Just clean the MAF shortly thereafter. I think the issue with the factory "CAI" is that it pulls cold air (really does) from the fender via a small hole. That seems to restrict air flow volume, though perhaps it is compensated for by velocity. But if that hole is really too small, it will under serve the engine. I have my box set up so it gets fed from its bottom front area, behind the front grill/headlight area. I have driven with a scanner to monitor various parameters and have observed the intake air temp = to the ambient air temperature, as measured by the sensor on the front of the truck. I think the factor set up is very 'safe' in terms of being very sealed and very quiet, and is almost foolproof for average homeowner to maintain. the aftermarket CAI's have their place, but require more care and thought about maintenance.