THIS is WHY We Don't Re-Use OLD Framing Lumber.. Ep. 5 

This channel is what RU-vid was meant to be. Loving the content and craftsmanship. I wish them great success.

The tips you give when you run into challenges are greatly appreciated. Probably the best renovation channel on RU-vid.

I agree with not reusing old lumber for framing, there’s definitely some other uses for it in less critical applications especially since the price of lumber is through the roof now.

I would block & sister just in case someone wants to hang something heavy on the rafter OR a future contractor walks on the rafter.

I'm in Minnesota and as a framer we glue floor sheeting, stair threads/risers, the bottom of every hanger, and lastly all interior/exterior bottom plates. A lot of people don't realize that the interior walls will squeak in time so we glue them down. Same thing with exterior walls. This also helps block the wind or draft's from entering the house in the winter. -30°/-50° isn't a good time when your house is drafty, lol. I've never heard of or seen anyone glue LVL's together or stud packs. Thanks for the video, guys. 👍🇺🇸😊

Whoever complains about that 2x6 repair with glue doesn't understand that wood glue forms a stronger bond than the wood itself. In other words, the repair is better than the original. To fail, it would have to break again in another spot. This is true for compression tension, and shearing forces. In short, people who have a problem with your repair don't know what the heck they're talking about. If that's their argument, by logic we should tear down all houses when the wood is over "x" years old -- a pretty ridiculous argument if you ask me. I just built a house and I'm shocked as what passed as "code" and got rubber stamped with approval of engineers. If I could post pictures here, you would not believe it. There has to be a river of dirty money flowing through our building commission. You are doing your customers a huge favor by taking the time to do it right, by the book, even if people who wrote the book or merely skimmed it don't know what they're talking about. There's "by the book" and then there's common sense. And unfortunately a lot of people are lacking in that area today -- except for a select few, like you.

Always something that doesn't go right but if everything went right ,we would never learn anything new.

so everyone was 100% ok when he cut one rafter nearly in half then put two screws in to hold it together but when he glues one piece of another it's HOLY COW it's never going to hold. lol the glue is stronger than the wood it's holding together. so long as there are no excessive gaps in the glue joint, it's fine.

that glue generally cures harder than the wood grain. it's probably stronger now than when it was new.

Excellent content. I’m a handyman myself for more than 15 yrs Is always appreciated to see real pros do the right thing every time. Not cutting corners but going beyond expectations 👍 Thank you and keep it up!

Man, It is so refreshing to see a true professional at work and not a hack…..

Watching your vids the last week or so, Nothing like watching craftsmen that know their stuff and enjoy their work. Respect from Dublin, Ireland.

Man daddy stud pack has so much knowledge on this sort stuff. I'm glad You guys started making this video. One of my favorite channels on you tube.

I Never used a palm nailer like that,looks pretty slick. Awesome job as always 👏👍

Just a jab, but go Tigers, Auburn Tigers. Since the 2x6’s are only supporting the Sheetrock at such a small span on the cathedral ceiling side, that split wood fix is the way I would have went too. It’s going to look great once the drywall is finished and painted.

Lmfaooooo I lost it when you played neck Edit: I would block it. Not because of normal loafs or anything, but if a future contractor walks on it. Probably not necessary bc glue is strong, but when I do work I like to exceed expectations so I don't mind doing that kind of stuff

Stud Pack episode with my morning coffee....Gonna be a good day!....

Wait. You have three ceiling heights and none of them flow into each other?

Extra block is not needed............... IMO. That said, I DON'T approve of the cut rafter. That looked pretty sketchy.

My house was built with 90% reused lumber, had no problems, 20 years later still no probloms, just need to inspect and choose what used wood is best for what location.

I'am a remodeling contractor in South Carolina and its good to see you teaching your son the trades the right way and the safe way. Good Content.

I can't believe how loose the growth rings were on those 4x4's. Tight ring growth lumber is pretty much extinct now.

very quickly one of my favorite home reno channels. I know I like to keep old framing lumber around for non-critical uses, such as building garage workbenches. I definitely don't want to reuse old framing lumber for new framing for the reasons you showed!

I do this all day and then come home and watch it on youtube. Probably means you guys are doing a great job. Duck the haters boys.

I think your repair is fine -- it's just a decorative ceiling!

I like how you’re able to combine older fastening methods with new ones. There are many seasoned framers who won’t touch structural screws, the amount of time they can save makes it a no brainer.

Do NOT bend the metal hanger more than absolutely needed and never unbend and rebend as that fatigues the metal at the critical part. If you mess up, pitch it into the trash (mark it as trash first so no one accidentally grabs it back out) and use a new one.

Hint for people using the Simpson Strong ties in awkward situations. Simpson makes a screw which is spec'd to replace the nails. This can come in very handy.

I would have side plated the broken rafter, just in case

Adding a block to that rafter isn't necessary since you glued and screwed.

Your engineers comments on gluing are spot on. Gluing in the field is a highly inconsistent process with highly variable results. You can’t make any engineering strength assumptions about the results of a field glued joint.

5:19....get a shot of the huge crack we created while cutting and compromising the integrity of a perfectly good slightly twisted rafter.

I'm not sure if the RU-vid paranoia is a good thing or a bad thing. Seems that everyone in the comments is a structural engineer! But if I'm being honest, I wondered how you were going to solve that issue.

Love when i watch these vids and things being done right i work for a custom builder and have seen some really crappy work good to see good work done ill watch more of you

What I like about your show is that you do projects like I would do. They don't always go perfect like they do on other DYI progams, and you show us how to make corrections to the problems that may come up.

Hell yeah that glue is going to make that rafter fix strong. Glue is stronger than the beam itself. Thats exactly how I would fix it.

It's great that you stop and explain what is going on. It's also awesome that you show the headaches and problems you overcome. Thanks!

6:15 it's not dry Wood, it's the wrong wood. No way a proper grown beam would break like this.

If I wanted to break the hanger, I'd bend it back and forth.

Perspectives matter. Talk to any furniture maker and most will sware that glue is all you need.

I really enjoy the amount of pride and excitement you have when you sincerely want the customer to be happy with your craftsmanship. For the most part, us homeowners don't mind paying for this type of attention to detail.

Why not just have the 2x4 sit proud of the rafter instead of cutting 95% of the way through the 2x6? Just feels like an extra step and an extra potential failure point. I know it's not really holding anything up, just seeing that split irks me and seems unnecessary.

I decided to go through the whole playlist to get the full story about this reno/remodel ... and I must say, it's one of the VERY FEW comprehensive channels where I could leave a comment every 5 minutes, asking questions etc. Really good content. I'll get to this level soon. Watch me.

Another great video guys, father and son team make instructional video's with great content. You both be safe out there, remain blessed and keep the video's coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Glue and screws are more than enough for the rafter. A good glue joint is stronger than the wood itself.

I really like to see you do not leave any thing out, You guys are perfectionists i love that. I started watching the bathroom remodel now i am hooked. Be safe. Ray

The lvl's I've used have a wax coating ,can't be glued.

"Belt and suspenders" made me chuckle. In the UK we say "belt and braces". Keep up the good work fellas.

I really enjoy watching your videos for so many reasons. The top and most important reason is how awesome your relationship is with your son/father. As a father of one fabulous young man I applaud you in how well you both get along and work together. Keep up the great work.

Great to see your thinking process and great explanations. Thanks, a plumber from Scotland, UK.

These guys are great. You can see the pride they take in their work and the satisfaction they get from their customers.

Great job guys! I really like how you talk through your options and how you overcome the challenges that are inevitable in a remodel. I’ve been a carpenter for 25 years now and I’m learning some great tips from you. Keep up the great work!!

Another great video. I recently did a vaulted ceiling and could not find the angled hangers (big box stores 🙄). Sure would have made life easier.

The better options for the beams if they want them would be to have them cross the cathedral mounting on either side vs running from top to bottom. Having that large beam in the sight line when you walk through the front door (just to have some beams on the other side)... idk.

Just thought I'd let you know, you're now my virtual dad, making Jordan my virtual brother. I love this channel.

I don’t agree with the 1 small 2 x 4 being a strong back for when you saw cut the 2 x 6 rafter. Why not at least the same 2x 6 with more screws, at least 6, you only put 2.

It really shows your experience with the setting of that beam. Thanks for sharing. Charles

Pish LSU...Go USF Bulls!!

the glue joint would be stronger than the surrounding wood

It’s gonna look odd. I would have dropped the dining and foyer ceilings to 8-foot so the cathedral meets it and the kitchen cleanly

sirs; i absolutely love these instructional videos and must say, i know of no other video that does this. thank yall for these and for keeping yalls minds on safety.................g

I think I'm at Lowe's more than my house

Ceiling rafter is fine i wouldn't even glue it

So what is holding the actual roof up lol

For what it is worth. 35 to 40 years ago, I fixed a split joint just like what you showcased in this video... Over the years, I always wondered it it had held together.. Well, about a year ago, I was up in the area, running camera CCTV junk, and guess what... that old school type glue is still holding just fine. To consider, the hot and cold cycles of seasonal weather changes, it held just fine. Now, to consider also, today's technology in bonding agents (glues) are a 1000 times better then back then. Please note, the glue I used, was every bit of 10 years older then when I used it in that situation. So, 50 year old glue, held up.. Just saying.. There should be any issues with this joint, let alone, how the hanger is still supporting it in a catch or hooking system and it is just one that has an issue. it'll be fine..

Good video. I enjoyed watching you guys solve problems on the fly! A friend of mine asked a carpenter who was working on his mom’s house to take out the wall between his kitchen on the backside of the house and living room in the front of the house. The carpenter said yeah I can do it no problem. I had been to his house many times and said please don’t just take the wall down, that it will need a beam and asked him to consult with a structural engineer. He said the carpenter had told him no beam was needed. I told him, yes it can be done but it will need a beam because the wall is load bearing. He consulted a structural engineer and the engineer confirmed it was load bearing and needed a beam. I had him get the engineer to go ahead and do plans for the beam etc., and the plans should be be approved in 2-3 weeks and he is having it done in the spring next year. With a different carpenter. Better to confirm things with a structural engineer as you guys obviously do!

I have a question about the type of wood that lumber is made of, or what it was made of historically. I especially wonder what type of wood the house I live in was built with. It was built in 1909 (supposedly) in Seattle. In our house, the wood used for the original framing appeared super dark brown, (almost like a wood lamp post). Is it the same and just darkens with age, or was a different species of tree used entirely? Also, how does the new framing and old framing in this video differ, other than one being dry and brittle? They appear a bit different.

Once again, you've made my morning a good one. Love you guys

I would’ve nixed the beams all together (except for the center for fan). They have a place but because you’re modernizing that house they will be out of place. Just my opinion

I was working on a church renovation some time back and the architect told me to glue up the top of a pony wall for the sound booth. Seemed odd. The next day I had to take it out, what a waste of time and material.

Love that you go through the specifics even down to the importance of following the nailing schedules as required by the manufacturer. Great job man.

I'm really liking your vids, I'll be recommending them to a few friends. I like that you do everything by the code while at the same time explaining times when there are exceptions or alternatives that do not compromise on safety or quality.

I feel like every new video is the best video you ever made. Love this channel and by far my favorite! So exciting fellas!

Another great video , my top 3 diy videos are number (1) STUD PACK , number (2) Perkins builders brothers , number (3) this old house to much off topic crap . KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK and THE GOOD VIDEOS .

Add the block you know the drill I’m a RU-vid arm chair expect so you better do it

Can you provide a tutorial on transferring the angle from the angle measurement tool to the cut made on saw? Birds mouth too. Any tips would be great. Thanks. Great videos.

Yes I would have side plated the rafter but that glue is strong and I can't see how that is going to be a problem

Yuppp... Glued and screwed that plank is good enough. Some may even use a epoxy glue just for the smell of it. If that wood is that brittle..the rest are the same. So ???? Good enough for the Good O Local boys who know their craft....unless you wanna fix em all !! Very Cool vids... Thanks

LUS not LSU 😂. You guys need to invest in some Qual-Craft wall jacks to raise those large LVL beams and skip out on the back pain. Just one of these wall jacks can lift up to 1000lbs effortlessly with a good quality 2 x 4. Although I’d recommend two so you can balance out the load out better.

I the scheme of things, that cracked rafter repair will suffice. You can even hammer on some bonding plates, heck, they build whole framing systems with them.

Carpenter's Wood Glue joints (not sure about Liquid Nails types) are often are stronger than the wood itself. IMO, that repair would've been stronger w/o the screws if glued and clamped. I know it's the owner's choice but the faux beams are a mistake. Why couldn't you just make the 9' ceiling a bit higher so the ceiling joists could've rested directly on LVL? We have a lot of bozos in my neck of the woods and some of them are even considered "professionals". The framing crew that put my home together (development house, 1997) did some real crappy work. I have a floor with a 1/2" dip on the second floor where the first floor walls were not the same height. I also found a first floor wall that was under a second floor wall and was not resting on any structural members (bottom plate was parallel to and between floor joists). I also found a wall stud that was spliced end to end (simply toenailed together). I no longer use the word "professional" when I refer to work that I do that is in a workmanship like manner (professionals often cut corners to get the job done faster and cheaper). On the very few occasions where I had someone come into my home to do work (quartz countertops and central A/C), they always screwed something up.

@17:50 "It's hot up there" (in the attic). And it's only March 11. But that's Louisiana. Imagine how hot it gets up there in June! Good news: You still have an attic. Bad news: You're making ice cream, in an oven, with that ducted a/c system in that hot attic. How to make that attic more temperate? Use radiant barrier stapled to the underside of the ENTIRE roof surface... shiny side down. Add ridge ventilation and eave vents, to facilitate convection current. Air in at eaves, out at crest. Make sure it's rain proof, but put some Proteus (wi-fi, 117VAC) instrumentation in the attic, just to keep an eye on that... 24/7/365). Leaks foment mold, encourage termite infestation, and all sorts of other maladies so we should remain vigilant... fault tolerant... in an imperfect attic ... and imperfect world.

Did you glue that 4x4? Haha.

Details, Details... Smoothie King.. Looks interesting, wish they would be up north here in MN. Good job guys!!

These guys are awesome, I like seeing how they go through a problem and eventually solve it but they break down why the things they originally were thinking wouldnt work and eventually get to the solution and why.

depending on the hardness, old lumber is fine if, you know how to work it. You have to cut old nails off, not try to remove them if stuck, without, a backing board for your prybar, . You cannot slam them with a hammer, or use nails generally, old lumber get age hardened they are brittle. but, you can, predrill them, and use screws. or bolts in heavier thicknesses. there are "tricks" and patience is key. You have to remember, it's not "fresh" lumber from the lumber yard. it's hardened, aged wood, which is BEAUTIFUL

This channel reminds me of me and my dad when we remodeled my grandfathers house. We took down some walls and made it a open concepts design for the kitchen and living room. Love these videos!

The glue/pin mend is sufficient. It will not fail nor distort. Scab/cladding the neighboring joists will add peace of mind, but, that's about it. But, peace of mind holds it's own value. You think like I do... The added step is a small effort . As always ...Good job.

You're good and do great work. But you do throw away a lot of good wood. Also, they make a tool to turn rafters and correct crown issues your fighting old school. Love your information and craftsmanship. Wish i had a son that could record me doing what i love. Your AMAZING! And NOBODY uses glue where it's not needed.

Is there an issue with the joist hangers to be split across the 4x4 and LVL? The intended installation is to nail the entire hanger to one framing member (rim joist, LVL beam, etc.) Also, would it not be better to use some #10 GRK screws instead of those thin-shaft SPAX pan-head screws?

It's not a rafter. It's a ceiling joist. (I know you know--just a slip) There's a big difference in what you can support with what beam (the roof or the ceiling) and whether you can cut it to straighten it as i this video. Making the call for how much something holds up and whether it needs a "scab", a replacement, or engineering is not for DIY.

Hey Guys. Im loving your channel. I have a question. how much does this project cost?? Thanks so much for the great content. Love the edditing too!!! Be safe out there!

I reused old growth 2x10s 36 feet long taken from a house across the street that had a gas explosion saved them from land fill 1900s tight grain dense after pulling nails straight as arr8w perfect after ripping into 2x4 2x3 re framed basment ,made herringbone bracing,made window boards ,wood reveals for windows some of the best timber probally from a tree that's over 800 years old not worried about its strenght at all far superior

It might be decorative but I keep thinking of the HVAC guy or insulator who has to walk/climb up those things to get to that ductwork. I'm sure they'll be appreciative of your efforts to bulk it up.

Why would you make a saw cut through the bent rafter only to have to strengthen it with another piece of wood next to it. Why not just use that piece of wood that you added to be the straight face you were looking for? If it’s because the existing drywall on the ceiling was nailed to The bent rafter, wouldn’t it be better just to take that piece of lumber you added to the original rafter, And just extend that? Take a hammer and pound down the drywall a quarter inch or whatever from the original rafter to straighten out the drywall. Just seems crazy to make a saw through an original or after like that. Also, I hope he didn’t toss that Simpson Strong tie back in the box after he Just bent it three or four times in front of us! :-)

Why not use 2 2x4s pancaked together? That way you could use some glue! Just kidding guys. Excellent work as always

I would start collecting mannequins. Just imagine years from now when that ceiling is being redone or repaired again. They pull off a section and the shock of seeing what looks to be a dead person up in there. I love pulling pranks like that but I wouldn't actually do that one. It would be my luck someone would be scared off a ladder and break their neck or it somehow cause a fire from being next to wires. On the real side I enjoy the videos and the information within them. If you need a Bob Vila to host your video get at me and I'll be glad to get in your way and tell everyone about the work I'm not going to be doing. Lol

On the topic of gluing: I am a designer of prefab wall panels and prefab trusses, in the North East US. As your engineer said, the only time they require us to glue anything is on truss repairs (in that case both gussets and scabs are glued). In all my years i have never seen glue as a requirement for beams or stud packs.

It wouldn't drip all over if you use liquid nail. But you are right we never use glue. If you use the recommended screws ( not nails) to secure the LVL together it wont go anywhere. Plus if you use screw it helps pull the LVL tight together without having to beat all over it.

Do you need engineering input on the 4x4 on top of beam “repair” for the joist hangers?