This video is nearly 3 years old now, (when I came across it) but it will still be just as relevant in 10 years time from now.That was such a great example of using the Starrett mitre gauge, and a fantastic explanation from you. Thank you so much man.
Its great to see that there are still craftsman out there that take pride in their work, love the channel can't get enough of your videos - always a great help -Thanks
I've had that Starrett miter gauge for many years. Tho I'm a flooring guy, I couldn't get by without it. Never seen another gauge that compares. Great video. Fantastic work. 👍
Heres a helpful tip, when you have a piece of paint grade material always put some caulking on the edge of the base before you push it against the tub side. It helps seal the end from water, critical with m.d.f. Also since they are different materials they will expand and contract differently, causing a small gap the caulking will help lessen that.
Richard, I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your talent and attention to detail. Both things are the mark of a true craftsman. Considering how long you've been doing this for a living, my guess is you keep pretty busy from just the referrals from your customers.
I purchased this and ended up returning it because the hinge had a lot of slop. It definitely did not live up to Starrett's reputation as a manufacturer of precision tools. I replaced it with the Lexivon aluminum one (which I realize was probably not available at the time this video was shot) and was very impressed by the build quality. You might want to give it a try if you haven't already.
Turned out beautiful and appreciated the information. I would have liked to see how you measured and made the corner piece for the bullnose. It makes for a fabulous, high end looking job. Thank you.
I’m gonna say it this guy is pimp he explains everything very simple clear and to the point.All other videos are crap don’t explain right and missing critical points.Thanks.
I use the Bosch digital protractor; it does what yours does but it also give you the perfect settings for cutting crown molding. I have used it on large jobs and had other crews tell me to slow down as to not make them look bad. It makes the job super simple and blazingly fast.
Bow do you go about finding angles on tiny pieces like quarter round and small wrap around areas? I find the t bevel and other protractor are top long to fit in these areas. I'm having trouble
Nice video man...I am a painter and I apply coulking on baseboards and I notice many carpenters don't know how to cut baseboards, I have to fill with coulking big gaps. Thanks 👍.
Ok, I need to purchase one of these tools asap !!! Really enjoy watching your expertise on finish carpentry; learning so much. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great video I can't see why you have people plotting thumbs down??...Ok a carpenter and this tool is a game changer from a hack handyman to a AAA professional
that 2 degree fix is amazing attention to detail! wish this channel was around 10 years ago when I did my home project. you don't see ANY 'finish carpenters' install that quality of work on new builds nowadays.... time is money. I don't even see coping on any new homes I've walked....all 45's with silicone bead on inside corners. too bad your company isn't local to Chicagoland, would hire u on my next project no hesitation. keep the informational videos coming..
FEARLESS IS WHAT YOU ARE. SHARING WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED WITH THE REST OF US IS AWESOME. SOME HUMANS WOULD HAVE YOU LEARN THE HARD WAY. THANK YOU. BEYOND SELF AND TIMELESS.
Excellent work. As a Painting contractor in south Florida I unfortunately rarely see this kind of craftsmanship. If I lived in your area I'd have to sell all of my calking stock. Keep up the good work.
The way you explained why you divided the number in half for the double cut, blew my mind. I had this tool when I did my basement a few years back and ended up almost running out of stock on a compound corner. That little tidbit was worth as much as the tool! Thanks man! Love your stuff.
Out of all the tools I own this one is my ABSOLUTE favorite. It saves so much time and takes the guess work out of miters. A MUST HAVE if you are going to be doing finish carpentry! Thanks for watching!
Hi Richard. I am a recent subscriber and am considering switching careers and going into carpentry. I have enjoyed watching your vids and find them to be quite helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Did you go to a vocational school or basically learn on your own?
William Mead: Check his earlier videos. He has one video where he gives a talk to a high-school shop class about how he got started and advice for noobs starting out. It's a great video. Edit: found it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tcrayR9oDuo.html
Your the man!. Love your videos and you have taught me a lot. take this as the slightest tip of constructive criticism. When I mark my boards for the cuts. I use my utility knife because it's even more accurate than a really sharp pencil.
I bought this to help when I am setting up a long (28' max) extension ladder to quickly verify that I have a 75 degree angle between the ground/floor and the ladder. I know it's overkill, but I had an uncle die as a result of a fall from such a ladder, so this tool puts my paranoia to rest. Nice to see in this video what purpose the tool was really designed for. Very professional; should be 100% thumbs up, especially since you include links to the glue and other tools you used in the video! Thanks!
Hi, I just wanted to say THANK YOU!!!!! I found this video a few days ago. I had to do this same style baseboard for a project i was working on. I purchased both tools and i have to say it was well worth it. My helper was so impressed, he's going to purchase a set. Again, Thank you...
Scott Brown carpentry just commented about you using this tool and he said he learned it from you he is in New Zealand I thought I'd pass that on to you
Yeah it’s a cool tool Iv been using mines for about 4 years now over here in Ireland 🇮🇪. I work with my old boy and he laughed at me when I used it first time because he’s old school and now he uses it every time himself 👍🏻👍🏻 great videos dude
@@adrianitis3750 hater talk haha. It is a cool tool and it can be used for professionals if they would choose to but to each their own it is a matter of opinion and preference. Still a cool tool
10,000 likes and 200 dislikes. I can only assume the 200 people are carpenters and are hating because I won’t be calling them cause thanks to this vid I will do the work myself thanks to this video. So I understand completely.
Richard, thanks to you I now own the same protractor and bullnose corner gauge. My wife saw the protractor on my Amazon wishlist and ordered it for me.
The tool will actually show 46 degrees for a perfect 90 degrees corner. I thought it's broken at first, but it turned out to be an intentional feature. Many carpenters suggest to cut 46 degrees for 90 degrees corners. That way the trim will slightly push against the wall creating super-tight fit ("like a glove").
Wow, what a review, great job highlighting this product. Great visual, no hand/body blocks. Voice was clear, and loud enough. I'm convinced and plan on giving this a try. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Richard, excellent skills and video as usual but why use mdf in an environment with water? Washing that bathroom floor let alone an overflowing toilet and those moldings are trashed. Kitchens are also a non use mdf area. The Starret gauge is a great tool.
Congratulations on the baby by the way! Please please do a video on scribing long cuts. Your last video you had at least a 10’ long baseboard that rocked on a warped floor. You didn’t show how to fix that. I’m familiar with scribing but have never done it. Question, once installed and nailed in there are micro gaps at the tops of the baseboards due to the wall not being perfectly straight. Also micro gaps at the tops of the bullnose corners. To give a cleaner and tighter look, is the only solution caulking then paint? Thanks for all your tips and videos
Heres how I have learned to scribe base to match humps or dips in floors. If you have a hump, level the base so that you can transfer the hump. To simplify it... if you have 5/16 of a gap on the left of the high spot and 5/8 on the right. Set a scribe to 5/8 of an inch start on the right and mark to the left. Cut the waste side of the line and either belt sand or hand plane to the line to make a cut that matches the floor perfectly. Fast cap accu-scribe are a life saver. They have made 2 variations, are well worth the 13-20 dollars they cost.
I do base in sections as a complete, uninterrupted run. So if the base starts at the edge of door casing, turns an inside corner, then an outside corner then stops at a door casing I would cut to length and dry fit for length all those pieces together. That would be a complete run. Cut everything to length and do a dry fit and temporarily tape together any outside miters to keep them from falling. I shim the ends of each piece so the top of each piece is perfectly flush with the one next to it and so that any outside miters are closed. Longer pieces might require a 3rd shim in the middle if they sag. Narrow shims are best so they don't interfere with your scribe. Unless there are fabric panels or some other wall treatment that's going to sit on top of your base and it needs to be level most base doesn't need to be dead nuts level. Generally if there's a fat hump in the middle of a wall I split the difference, but each situation is different. For marking/scribing, and especially for stain grade, I prefer to use masking tape or green painter's tape and a .5mm ink ball type pen in a Home Cheapo compass, it gives a very thin but clear line for jig sawing or freehanding on a table saw and then belt sanding or block planing. For high end residential with somewhat bumpy solid oak floors, (high end as in $550 toilet paper holders in each crapper), I'll remove the ink cartridge of a pen and hot glue it in a small block of wood. If for some reason there's a seam in the floor planks within an inch or 2 it can throw off your scribe if you're using a compass or any of those larger expensive scribing tools. Also, the base might be sitting on a small natural bump but that bump might not extend all the way out to where your big ol' scribing tool is riding. No Bueno! A small block of wood with a hole and a pen in it and some hot glue to secure it is your best bet for bumpy, uneven floors. Like a small chunk of MDF that's 1/2"x1/2"x1" with a hole for the pen cartridge about 3/8" up, or positioned wherever you need. There's a million tricks, and that's just for wall base.
Carpenter here. Great video. I’m getting the gauge! Gotta be a great time saver. Even the other piece against the tub it’s great to just get the angle instead of scribing it.
"one of the greatest tools ever invented by man kind at any time in any place in the entire existence of humans on the face of the earth" good enough for me! just bought it
Gonna be that guy and say Its pronounced "Stair et". My family has worked for them for the past 80 years combined. I know it aint a big deal. Just that pride taking over.
Mike's Content when I was a 1st year apprentice in sheet metal I made the mistake of pronouncing it star et. Was corrected immediately and never said it again lol
K00K, my sentiments, too. I LOATHE bullnoses corners. I see them as a mask to cover up lousy drywall workmanship where they couldn't make a proper corner fit.
Knock-downs (the drywall finish on the walls in this video) are hideous. They also make any repair to the wall a much more difficult job. But they weren't invented for the sake of the homeowner. They were invented for the sake of the drywall contractor that wants to hire cheap labor that doesn't have any idea what it's doing. Use of bullnose could easily be a sign that you are dealing with a drywall contractor that only works in production mode. Not quality mode. I've seen the bullnose used as far north as Ocean City, Maryland. That protractor is a great tool, however.
I had a professional do my trim costing me $1000.00, and he did not put any trim around the bull nose edges. Thanks to this video I know know how to fix this myself. Will be purchasing a Starrett protractor asap.
Have you done a coping video? Basic mdf is easier I've just redid half my house with wood similar to this material and couldn't get it right lol. Your skills are phenomenal by the way
There are several good coping vids on RU-vid. Try to watch as many as possible. A hand coping saw is good but a Collins coping foot is really good if you've got a lot to do. Also, a round file, about 3/8" thick and a small triangular shaped file is good for precise coped joints.
All my coping I use a cordless angle grinder with 36 grit sanding disks. Then fine tune it by hand with sandpaper as needed. It you have to take out a lot of material, back cut the cope with the miter saw, they cope with the grinder. It's super fast
At 5:20, when putting that coped end into the wall baseboard, I leave my long (for marking) as in the video but I lightly tap the end with my hammer to seat that coped end real nice.
I didn't hear him mention a glue. On another video showcasing this miter tool the person used LePage 10 minute Wood Glue for its quick drying ability while doing miters.
I bought this tool, and its the bomb. I used to have to really sweat to get the corners even acceptable. Using this tool, I have really great corners now.
Same angle as figured. if the "double cut" reading is 46 degrees.... and you're bullnosing.... then each of the four cuts for the corner are half of 46 = 23 degrees. Old school way would be to just use the bevel and a square... bisect the angles down from original reading.... like set the bevel for he wall's angle... then put the bevel on the straight edge of a scrap of wood, mark a line. Use the framing square's width to mark a parallel line to that one (a line the width of the framing square, parallel with the line marked from set bevel). Then mark another line using the width of the framing square, parallel with the straight edge of the scrap...so you're making a crooked square. Then set the bevel diagonal across that square and you have your angle for a regular miter. To bullnose, just repeat that process, and bisect that angle.... then use the bevel to set your saw blade. This tool would be quicker and easier.... but that's how you would do it without a tool like that, just using a bevel and get same accurate angles.
I think I would use a digital micometer, and measure between the two lines made with the bullnose gauge, that would give you the length of the back of the baseboard. Then cut your mitres outward from that.
I guess Im old. We called that a scribe fit. Tradesman been doing this for hundreds of years. Also, just as important, is the technique where you glue up first, then nail. Nailing that turn as one piece makes the difference.
Speaking of gluing up first, last year I had the opportunity to use a set of Jim Chestnut's clam clamps for door and window casing. At first I was skeptical because of the 4 pin holes it leaves in the finish, but now after using them, in the words of the Monkeys, I'm a believer. Have you ever used them?
Yup, it’s a waste of money to me to buy that tool I’ll loose that tool really quick because I won’t need it since I already knew how off it was by looking at it
