@@OnlineMechanicTips judging from how often you post videos on cooling system repairs, it definitely seems like that's a tool that would be worth investing in for you, JT.
I haven’t used ANYTHING but the vacuum-fill tool for the last……… 15yrs. Bruv, make the change. Ive used them on everything from sl600’s, Cummins, Hayabusas, to my old 1971 super beetle.
They're right. An airlift will save you a TON of time. And you won't even have to mess with the bleeder screws. Because on some engines, trying to crack open the bleeder screw for coolant is a REALLY bad idea.
I'm still surprised that not every shop/mechanic doesn't have a vacuum bleeder. Refilling a system, waiting for the thermostat to open while bleeding, just takes so long.
I have a steep driveway. If I point the car up the driveway during warm-up after refilling, it tends to "burp" the air bubble out of the engine. The bubble of air seeks the highest point in the system.
You should be using a airlift for the coolant which pulls a negative vacuum on the coolant system and will also tell you if you have any other coolant leaks if it doesn’t hold vacuum!
Any self respecting professional should be using a vacuum filler. If you don't value your time, feel free to go with another method. Only speaking to professionals here, unless you're only working on classics. DIY would depend.
@@toyorover1313 there is many methods to burp a system it doesn't matter how you do it most modern cars are designed to work air out of themselves given there's a place for it to exit.
It matters when you're trying to be fast and also can't afford to have a comeback when that airlock manifests itself after the customer takes the vehicle (sometimes takes a while for them to work themselves out). I didn't say there's no other way, a DIY guy with all day to bleed his system won't need to vacuum bleed.
@@toyorover1313 understandable if you work at a dealership and you have to be quick but here at my shop we work at a slower pace and do things efficiently and correct. Using a funnel to burp the system works perfectly fine and takes less than 20 min.
I just poured a bunch of water into my tank after draining, ran it until it was clear when draining, then topped up with 60/40 coolant and water mix, drove the car around with a lot of high revs and high-speed corners and then squeezed a few hoses to get bubbles in the expansion tank, no dashboard lights so far 👍
This is the Dukes of Hazzard method! I approve👍💯 ! For those pesky bubbles that sometimes are nearly impossible to get out, I would recommend jumping a creek at a place where the bridge has washed out. sAfE aNd eFfEcTiVe 😂😂😂✌🍩
JT have you ever used one of those vacuum cooling system refill tools? It uses your air compressor it creates the Venturi effect pull a vacuum on your cooling system and then it sucks the coolant in and fills the system that way.
It is actually the ONLY way to fill many modern systems. It is fool proof if done correctly. Pull a vacuum, let it sit for 5 minutes. Then pull coolant up to the valve but not yet into the system. Close the valve, and let it pull vacuum again. Then, open the valve fully and there you go. After you do that the reservoir will be over filled (if it has a pressurized reservoir) so then I set the fill bottle below the car and let it siphon to the correct level.
@@toyorover1313occasionally I'll come across a system where the vacuum tool doesn't work perfectly, but it is ALWAYS less hassle than any other method
Had a Dodge Journey a couple days ago that refused to burp the air out of the top third of the rad, despite using the funnel and opening the bleeder. Had to pop the upper hose at the rad to make it right.
I usually just fill it up while it’s running then let it run untill the thermostat opens up fill it sommore take it for a test drive get it nice and hot then park it and check it after it cools down never had any comebacks for overheating
You could just use a vacuum fill system instead. An absolute must for water cooled Porsche's where the cooling system runs the entire length of the car.
People have no idea what an air pocket in the cooling system will do. The coolant just will not circulate if there is an air pocket or more. I used to build really nice BMW show cars and if you replace the cooling components or say you do the fan clutch and take the radiator out and you don't bleed all the air it will overheat instantly.
I don't know what kind of engine this is, but I've found that if you just look the engine over well, you'll find one of these little plugs. I've never seen more than one. I'm certain the manufacturers try to minimize the need to have these.
The best way to 'bleed' a cooling system, is to use a cooling system pressure tester. It forces coolant into all the nooks and crannies, forcing air pockets back into the radiator. Then you just top off the coolant.
I recently did a oil cooler on a pentastar and didn't think the thermostat too many shit on it... sure enough it did amd still over heated. Rule of thumb is docthe that too when doing the cooler. Or even the pump
The best way to fill a cooling system is with vac and fill. Thats why they do it that way at the factory. Huge time saver too! Get one from your tool guy.
My Infiniti 3.5 gave me such a hard time I ended up putting a hand pump onto the over flow and pumped it thru with bleeder screw off. Pumped an extra gallon in just to make sure lol been good since
@@user-white007 perhaps its not being used correctly? Since it pulls a vacuum, there can be no air left in the system. Its also tells before filling if a hose is not connected, then its obviously not possible to get a vacuum.
@@douglasberg2881 as you know there’s a wide range of vacuum ours pulls a -20 something don’t know the units lol. But you could leave it on all day it’s never ever gonna pull all air and all coolant from the systems that would be a perfect vacuum
Drill a small hole in the flat part of the thermostat and you’ll never have air pocket problems again. If not then You can also leave a top radiator hose off while you fill it
VERY diffacault to bleed the 3.6 on my JK. About to buy myself a vacuum bleeder, it keeps airlocking, I lose heat on hwy and lower radiator hose sometimes is cold after 40 miles of hiway...
I almost replaced my thermostat. I had flushed my cooling system and replaced coolant and then, I had no heater and my overflow bubbling after a drive. All these years and never knew to bleed it.
You do this with the car running, heat full blast, a lil while after getting heat in the cabin and no more coolant going down, put the cap on and you are good
Wait what, you mean having water/ air intercooler plus 3 electric pumps plus a maze of heater hoses for 4 zone climate makes it more difficult to bleed? /s Totally agree, hybrid cooling systems are even worse.
Why he do it like that 😂Your supposed to open the bleeder screw after you fill it and when it's running engine on warming up, then your gonna want to warm it all the way up. Why is he filling the system with the bleeder open that's drawing air in when it fills up 😂 close it fill it, start it open it warm it fill it. ☑️☑️☑️☑️⚡⚡⚡⚡
