John, good guidance on internal gearing. One thing I wouldn’t do is use the round end of a 4mm Allen key to initially undo the RD cable nut, always use the short section Allen key first.
Great demonstration! After months of fretting and delaying, I changed both cables. Both went through easily to my relief. However, after tightening the cable and pinch bolts, none of the gears worked. There must be a lack of tension somewhere. Off to my local shop now to get some help.
Glad you found it useful LDC!! Obviously, you get the option of me doing it for you, if you fancy popping down for a visit. However , doing it yourself is really satisfying 👍😉
Good day! How to check two cables in downtube on crossing each other? Especially on early stages when the cables are new and not connected to derailleurs 😅
My Giant Defy has cable inners fitted so the first method won't work. I pulled through dental floss with the old cable and used that to pull back the new cable.
If i were to just change my handlebars with cable routing, would i do this from my brake levers i.e. detach the cables from my brake lever, route the cables through th3 handle bar and then reattach the cables to my brake levers?
Hi, This is standard Shimano gear cable, so the thickness of the inner is 1.2 mm. It must not be confused with Shimano brake cable, which is 1.6 mm. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching. Jon
Unfortunately, it's not a simple one to answer, PatenTv. Each routing process is specific to each frame manufacturer. Some manufacturers route just the inner cable through the frame, as shown in this video, whilst others route both the inner and outer through the frame. To be honest though, the more common process is to only route the inner cable through the frame, and use a frame mounting kit (Example here - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353761789484 ) to but the cable outers to the frame.
@@bikeman123Standalone cable liners can be bought online, I've bought a few packs before made by a Chinese company named Risk. You'll also need a little heat from a lighter to flare the end you want to anchor at the cable housing stop.
Solutions are satisfying only for those who have not actually tried them. This BS video that fails to address the most common and difficult problems with internal cable routing--holes in the frame to small to allow the magnets or the other silly gadgets to pass through, and plastic cases that cannot follow the cable to the other side of the frame... Instead of schilling for the manufacturers and Park Tools, the presenters would to better to admit that they have no decent solution to this problem.
There is barely 2mm hole at the bottom of my mtb frame. This is nuts! I can't even fit the bowden inside tubing through it. What a stupid design that is when both brake and dropper post tubing go right through frame. My previous mtb had full length shifting bowden and never had any problem with shifting quality.
