A lot of "professional welders" (at least according to their keyboard skill) hates pulses. They think you should be able to weld a razor blade without any purge or backing, using foot pedals and that's it.
excellent, I was searching for an instruction I can use for welding cracks of bandsaw, and your video is the most similar situation I could find, thanks
If your blade is cracking, welding isn't going to fix anything. They cracked because of metal fatigue, often due to the wheel being too small and the blade reaching the end of their life. This is why if you have a bandsaw, get as big a wheel as possible, or if not possible, run them at slower speeds. Metal cutting bandsaw has very small wheel, but that's ok because they are also running very slowly. Wood bandsaw needs huge wheels or else your blade will break all the time. In fact if anything the welding will weaken the blade and it will break about 1/16th inch from the weld.
@6SpeedFab Just saying. To eliminate half of distortion (I.E. tack break) start weld halfway between tacks, weld to tack, then start at other tack and weld to first weld. Works in all welding processes.
Wow, what a difference having all the rite kit and materials does. I have access to a mig welder, but not proper bench or tools to clamp stuff with, or the space to sit down and properly position myself etc. Often i have to do it outside where the gas gets blown away by the slightest breeze, and i am usually working on the concrete and leaning bits of metal against the wall or using objects to hold it into place and weigh it down etc whilst I weld it. You should do a challenge and show techniques of how to weld in austere in environments, as that's the likely environment where the average peasant will work haha!
My dc pulse only have hz settings and pulse amps (theres another to set the main amps. The two i mentioned is available only under dc pulse mode). How do i achieve similar ones like u did
Awesome really cool. I welded some with my Invertig but used filler 3/32 and same for tungsten I noticed you changed your on time and amps would you say those are pretty close? I think the ontime on the 221 is 40% default IIRC. Thanks for showing I always learn from you... Jason
Welding Junkie I keep the amps pretty huge for the material thickness but keep the on time and background amps real low. 10% of the time means short bursts of heat and 10% background is barely enough to scoot the puddle along. With 1.5-3 pulses per second depends on how you like your ripples spacing to be
(Giggled) I hand out razor blades for business cards and I used an old hobart tigwave 250 set to 20a/ manual pulse #7 stubby gass lense and about 10-12cfm. I found they do best if you tack one corner and leave a 1/16 gap on the other end and they pull together perfectly. I have fun with these parlor tricks
I am not a welder and I just started watching these type of videos out of all the welders out there what is the best time for body stretching panels together for little to no warping
Tack the corners, keep the power low and fill in slowly with a criss cross pattern to avoid heat build up. Just go as slow as you need to, to avoid warping.
I am a beginner and the majority of my TIG will be on auto bodies. Great demonstration of how to produce a low crown bead using increased pulse. How does pulses function work with filler? 👍👌✌️😃
Nice work! I'm a newbie too... never imagined 120 amps for a razor blade! I fully get the pulse time now! Would there ever be a need for an .040 tungsten??
Thanks for the video, if i'm getting this right you are never more than 15 percent of the 120 amps, and what makes the 120 amps such a good setting, and lastly what happens if you go with lets say 15 to 20 amps without the pulse. Thanks
Oh ok thank you so much for the reply can't wait to start playing with the settings on my alpha tig 200x, I want to make a wedge of cheese out of some thin stainless sheet I think I have some 20 gauge I have tried to pedal down some tacks on 20 amps but still blows through a little, I am going to try the settings you did, thanks again
Dont know if u figures it out yet but, all the above....close(1/16") distance tip from workpiece distance, pulse settings(2pps,20%br, 40%on time) but MOST OF ALL...the chill block, he used aluminum. It works great. Good luck!
yea like the other guy said, the chill block is literally 99% of the reason hes not burning through. Having a solid chunk of aluminum the entire way down your weld is key to protecting for burn through and shielding.
What are your referring to? The piece that is being welded? If it is, have you never seen a replaceable knife blade before? It certainly is not aluminum.
"SOLDER" ????? Soldering does NOT melt the parent material. You need to school yourself on the principles of joining metals ....then come back with a more specific question.
that is 0.014 inch = 0.35mm thichness ,you have heat sink , so how can you weld thin tube ,round joint ? can not put heat sink on tube .. i have seen guys weld 0.28mm thick stainless tubing , no pulse no foot pedal no heat sink , try that so you know how good you are
@@belloautomotive1522 can you still feel things through them? I'd like a pair of gloves where I can feel pride or a sense of well being. Can you feel that in those?
Hello Sir! I am in Miami and I have a broken piece of one customer to an equipment that is discontinued by the Manufactory and it needs an expert like you to weld. Impossible to find a person in Miami to do this. Do you take jobs like this? Pls advise!
@@belloautomotive1522 Thank You for the reply Sir. I can send a picture to you. This piece is a component of one equipment from a customer of mine and he asked me to find a solution since manufactory does not supply this piece as a replacement part. Let me know how to send you the picture..email better. Tks Marco Pls let me
Hang on, a 20 cup, 30 CFH (which is half of 60 rule of thumb cup size to follow), and 120 amps with a 1.6mm T. I'm Blown Away. I can't match or do that. "Edited - - - At 120 amps????? -
I have always been wary with welders who use autogenous welding because they really do ignore the purpose of filler and hence ....weld strength in the application. You measured 0.014" material thickness, but the fact of the matter is there is literally no material at the point of weld ...one simple reason why your tack failed ....there was literally no material at that tack. We all know what you were welding. The point of weld is at the sharpened edge (yeah sure, probably dull knife), but if you wanted to measure the material thickness for the purpose of identifying the amount of material at the weld, you should be measuring at that point. A very common problem with fabricators. They are not engineers. They are welders and some of them really want to make the weld "look" nice ....but under the surface ...there is no material. If this was in fact an legitimate welded part, this part would fail as the entire weld length, when measured, would be determined to be "undercut". Yes, the weld bead does look "NICE".
If I'm understanding your post correctly it sounds like you're under the opinion that the cutting edges of the blades are just barely butted up against each other. While this video isn't particularly clear about the setup, at 2:37 it appears that the beveled portions of the blades are stacked on top of each other, meaning that the area being welded is in fact the same thickness as the rest of the blade, and not "literally no material". The setup is seen much more clearly in his previous video on the same topic: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2Vb6lARo7DE.html The link should be queued up to show alignment of the blades. The beveled edge of the blade on the right gleams quite brightly as it catches the light, only to disappear when the edge of the left blade overlaps the right, hiding the shiny edge. Perhaps it's not the strongest weld possible, but I think it's a lot stronger than you're giving it credit for.
This kind of welding can have its place, and you would know if you ever actually did it, instead of just being 'wary'. Being an engineer has nothing to do with it. Obviously, he can add filler if he wants to, but two razor blades welded together has not a goddam use in this world.
i could mig those box cutter blades with that set up , and think nothing of it ,, try razor blades , no backing , uphill vert then ill take note , till then , just another hot glue gun op
He clearly stated that the aluminum is soaking the heat away which helps his demonstration. He is NOT demonstrating how to weld thin material. He is demonstrating the two different pulse settings.
@@bettiecordier2728I take my craft very seriously ive been at it for yrs to get where I'm at. I just have to speak up when I see some goofy stuff like this claiming to be a challenge. Melting 2 blades together with a pulsar to make it "look" like you did it manually with filler is not a challenge whatsoever. I want to see him weld then with no overlap with or with out filler. Fusing with no overlap shows something
I was reading fast and was like oh another asshole . But then my brain processed the overlapped part , i didnt even notice that .... Like Yeah good job trying to make the challenge not a challenge. And taking the easy route .and not really showing skill. Just found a good setting and moved it along . So yeah weak 😂
I understand using a chiller block and a pulse setting. If you're not using your tools to make the best product you can, then you're not making the best product you can. I was very surprised to see the overlapping blades, though. Completely necessary on a filler-less fusion weld, but obviously, not as impressive and doesn't translate as well to on-the-job skill.
