We finish up wastegate repair on this turbo and drive it to take some graphs to see if it works. If you would like to donate to the continued production of these videos visit my website at www.kansascitytdi.com
Sadly, this won't save the owner a penny. If the turbo has that much wear, the turbo seals will soon be blowing oil through them if they aren't already. The hours of time spent attempting to repair a worn or junk part would offset the price of the new part. If you can do this yourself, have fun, but it's just practice for when the turbo finishes blowing up. It's a great time doing it twice.
@@CoolAirVw I'm already recommending it to others that DIY on VWs too. I was brought here by your website. Followed your 01M removal step by step. Just finished timing chains on a VR6 and getting ready to put the transmission back in early next week. I read your advice on the torque converter depth. Any special tricks or audible sounds I should be paying attention too other than wiggling and pushing the TC into the transmission? Thanks
There is almost no info on the Bentley manual other than depth. Other transmissions usually "clunk" or make a sound when the TC engages. It doesn't advice either on a technique to get it into the proper seating
that graph was the proof in the pudding. Good job dude. Wish I could do all that shit lol but knowing my luck with VW, I'll prob end up having to fix more shit on the way out lol
I definitely NEED to bring my car to you, problem is I'm in Houston. I've been able to do most repairs myself, but when it comes to electrical stuff I usually save that for the pros. Sadly the mechanics here are quick to say "you need a new this or that" without even trying to attempt an economical repair. MAN I wish you were local here in town, cause based off what I've seen so far and believe me, I've watched a LOT of your videos and continue to do so-and yes.. I've subscribed to your channel, I always watch pretty much every video you put out. As far as I'm concerned, YOU ARE the TDI guru. I really and truly wish I had the computer software you have as well as the know how use and diagnose electrical issues, cause the mechanics here only deal with surface issues. They don't have the tenacity to dive deaper and fix it right, so props to you cause you're the man when it comes to TDI's!!
FYI I really appreiate the praise. I'm sitting here stressing out about a tough diag (oil leak) and dreading the customers reaction, but it really helps that someone appreciates what I do.
Most definitely, my issue seems to be circuit connection on the injector wiring harness. I saw your video and another guy's video where you took the wires out of the plastic connector and crimped them for better connection. I ended up breaking the connector on the end of the wire. So I went to Auto Zone and bought a pack of brass connectors. Put one on the wire, crimped it, put it back in the plastic housing and put everything back together. Only difference is the brass connectors I bought don't have the little tab on them that snaps and keeps it in place inside the plastic housing. I put it on and everything back together. The car ran fine when I drove it afterward, then the next day I drove to get a bite to eat and while in the drive thru it started running rough again, then it smoothed out as I got close to home. Mind you the fuel filter is brand new and it's got a brand new lift pump in it. I just drove it a bit ago and it ran smooth for the most part, there were a couple times where it started running a little rough. I'm thinking maybe the new connector isn't on all the way and not making good contact. It's like it periodically loses the circuit. It's also got brand new factory glow plugs in it as well as an upgraded turbo from Kerma TDI. Anywho, it's been a great car up until the last few months. It's been in & out of multiple shops and I feel like I gotten further on my own with it than any of these shops. Just trying to get it lined out so it'll be good for years to come. Based off of what I told you, can you think of any recommendations off the top of your head?
Great, great video, Thanks for posting this, Your name should be Honest-CoolAirVW! I am subscribed and will share with my friends. I just replaced my Passat 2.0T divertervalve (P0299) since it had a tear in the rubber gasket. I wish I had and knew how to use that software so I can see if my boost is OK 0n a graph. Anyways I know if I ever have an issue with what you fixed I'll send you my turbo!
Great video and you happen to be local. 2012 A4 getting the dreaded P0299 under boost code. Ordered Diverter valve to see if that helps and if not will be looking at other options. Why don’t these come adjustable from factory. I guess they want to keep their dealer shops in business
The rod coming out of the wastegate actuator looks bent. I would also make sure the actuator is not binding at either end of its travels under pressure. .I would also consider the condition of the actual turbo, seals, end play and radial play in the impellers-bearings.
Turbo was in great shape and was a Excellent candidate for repair. We of course check as much as we can before we attempt repair. remeber this car was very low mileage, but I wouldn't be afraid to do it on one that was higher mileage if the turbo checked out good. Rod was bent because I bent it to fit the lever perfectly.
Love your video I’m just about to do this . Can you remove the actuator while the turbo is still on the car and make the actuator adjustable then put it back in
@@CoolAirVw You are correct I ended up just removing the turbo. The flapper arm is completely ruined so I’ll replace that also . Love your video Thankyou
I feel bad for all the audi/vw owners who were told they needed new turbos when this was all that was wrong with it. This job should have gotten a new clevis pin, they are available from turbosmart.
Hi I’m having the same problem with a Audi A4 20 tdi B7 bre 2006 . Upto now I’ve checked turbo, all working how it should , next I’ve checked all the inter cooler system for leaks, no leaks , just ordered a new boost sensor but after watching your video it’s got me re thinking that it’s something else. Any tips please 👍👍 ps great video by the way 👍
@@CoolAirVw it just opens a little and it doesn't go very smoothly and when I open it manually until the end it stays open, it doesn't close, I think it just needs to be lubricated somehow to make it easier to open and close on its own. Can I lubricate her with something?
What did you use to fix the wastegate actuator rod? I am doing this as we speak and mine where it connects with the e clip is worn out. Is there a replacement? I have the flapper kit, I need the part where the e clip connects the rod to the flapper.
I think I have the same problem with my 2008 GTI. All mechanics want to change my turbo and I don't believe they're looking at anything else. Even if I hypothetically find a shop that will attempt to find an economical solution to this problem, isn't it genuinely rare that a mechanic is willing to or even has the experience and intelligence and TOOLS to do what you just did on this turbo? I appreciate your closing statement rationalizing the effort and solution, but aughts don't make is's and I am not confident that even a recommended mechanic will take that kind of care and attitude with my vehicle.
you can get VW turbo's imported from Borg Warner's factories in China for around $650. What I hate is that the wastegate design is such that you have to change out the entire assembly over a small flap. If the turbo's CHRA is bust, then you might as well go get a new one.
