Wow, incredible detail for the job. Thats a trait thats very hard to find my friend. Thank you for the great video and i am sure that customer was super impressed with your work!!
Just subscribed. Came across your video by chance as amateur DIY'er. Excellent video, very informative, great number of helpful tips, especially using packers on the floor to easily check visually that the levels are correct. Great detailed but concise in depth explanations
Valentino, I would have used a continuous piece of backer board in the doorway as that is the tread area. You can raise the PVC door a little on its hinges, not too much but maybe enough to help. Very useful vid though as working on suspended wooden floors is full of complexity. Pity the customer was working to a budget as those radiator pipes needed to go under the floor! That may have given you the access to level the joists from underneath. It must be very frustrating for you to have to compromise. That said, these sort of vids where compromises have to be made are the most useful.
Thank you so much, I am renovating my kitchen and have tongue and groove boards and I though I will have to rip everything up and install OSB to level the floor. You save my life. 👍
can you tell me the names of that that material you were using bicoz I was to tile on top of the wood as well and we're can I get those boards (names please)
Thank you soooo much for this video! You are awesome! I have been looking for a video on how to tile over my t&g structural flooring. I have Laticrete Next Level Plus self leveler. I'm thinking I'll need to add fiber to it.
Hi , thank you for your message. If the self levelling compound is flexible ( this should be written on the bag ) there is no need to add any additional fibres.
Hi , thanks for your feedback For a walk in shower you definitely need a backer board if you have floor boards. If there is tongue and groove boards ( chipboard or osb ) you can use Ditra mats. Very important to waterproof the shower area. Walls , floor and corners.
@@valentinointeriors3023 Thank you, I will have a look at that, just planning now and preparing budget and strategy 😊 I want to install the floor heating as well. I subscribed to your channel and will check other videos. Keep up the good work with videos here. You are a lot of help for people like me 😊
Excellent video. I am concerned about my floors because they are so squeeky and wobbly. So I will screw down the floorboard before proceeding and use a hard backer board regardless. Question: what is the best levelling compound for this type of job, if price wasn't an issue for the client? The absolute best of the best?
Hi . Levelling compound from Mapei and Ardex will do the job just fine . In my opinion the best levelling compound and adhesives are from Ball . Just remember you need a flexible one . Thank you
Hi thanks for your video. Can I ask some advice? I’m looking at doing my bathroom my house is a bungalow and I don’t want to tile all the hall way. How do you transition from tile to carpet or laminate without having a massive step at the door if say I had to use a cement board on the floor in the bathroom?
gonna need to redo the floor in my bathroom on first story cuz its vinyl from the 60's starting to look and smell like a trap house. do you think the very heavy cast iron bath with 4 legs will work on such tiling? i'm scared it might break the tiles given the high weight applied on a soft/flexible base layer between tiling and wood.
im planning on doing my upstairs bathroom and i was wondering if theres anything i must do before going diy on the tiling. the floorboards are bit noisy and im pretty sure some of them "breathing" when stepping on it. dont really rant to replace floorboards cuz dont have that kinda funds available. would it be an issue that the boards breathe when stepping on it? obviously not a major movement in them but still some.. would the glue hold the tiles in place or would they start cracking and disconnecting after a little while?
Hi Peter You have to make sure that the floorboards don’t have any missing screws or nails. Prime the floorboards and then glue down a 6mm cement board with flexible tile adhesive and screws. Use small screws to fix the cement board into the floorboards. No need for long screws because you will have pipes, cables under .( if you can install a 12mm cement board is even better) After this you need to prime the cement board and you can install the tiles. I hope this makes sense, but don’t hesitate to ask any questions if you have.
Hello, I am currently in the process of levelling my floor in a 1900 tenement flat. I’ve figured out the biggest dip in the room is 41mm. To level this floor would I just follow this process or would you suggest any additional steps considering it is a significant dip in the middle of the room . Thanks
Hi , in this case I will use a different method. I will remove the floorboards and I will attach another timber (4”x2”) on the existing joist to bring them at the right height. The new timber will have to be screwed and if possible some expanding glue .
Excellent video mate, im about to do my bathroom floor, but i was wondering.. could i put tiles onto backboard without sticking backboard onto the floorboards? Maybe just only screws? Just incase i need to do any future maintenance to paperwork underneath
Hi , thank you for your message. Difficult to say yes to this . If I will do this I will definitely stick this with adhesive. If the floor is good and doesn’t have much movement you may be ok . I think this way . If I have a leak and I can’t get to it from underneath ( ceiling) I will have to remove and dispose the tiles . Doesn’t matter if I have to remove the backer board as is not expensive.
Hi Valentino! Great video, one question: I have many tubes running through the wooden floor. What do I use to close these gaps so I can use the selfleveling compound? It is the bathroom so should be watertight…
A great video! I do have a question for my project. I am buying a new build house and will do the tiling. In the bathrooms they already installed on the floor the backer board (baseboard), I can see the same screws you used, however I am not sure if they used any adhesive underneath. I was advised to remove the backer board and to install a decoupling mat, I also got advise just to tile over this already installed backer board. What is your thought on this? Would love your advise. Should I remove the backer board, should I prime it and then put the tile on it, or is it maybe possible to add the decoupling mat on top of the backer board, running out of ideas here. Your help would be much appreciated. Thank you
Hi There is no need to replace the backer board with decoupling membrane. Both of them are ok for tiling. In my house everything is tiled ( floors) over backer boards. I will check if the backer board is also glued down and if it’s not I will do this . Pretty easy as is already cut to size. Just remove the screws , and use a 5mm notched trowel and place the screws back. The subfloor needs to be primed and before the tiles installation I will prime the backer board as is been there for a while and it may be dusty . When you are checking the backer board this should be better 6-12mm. Any thicker then this may not work with small tiles. Any questions down the line please feel free to ask.
@@valentinointeriors3023 Thank you so much, this helps a lot. I didn’t check the tickness of the backer board, will do that also for sure once I visit the house again. And then when I get the keys the work can begin. At least I know now what to do, thank you once more.
It is tile backer board www.fastwarm.com/fastwarmreg-6mm-tile-backer-insulation-board-11103-p.asp?gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIteuJmemQ_wIVCe3tCh2XtQ7yEAQYASABEgI1RvD_BwE
Great work. I learn much better way from you. Can you write down all the things you used please? The first "blue" glue name and the one after till the end please. Thank you.
Hi Thanks for your feedback Please see below links for everything I have used or similar . Let me know if there is anything else you need me to help with. Primer: www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-tile-fix-proprimer-advanced-polymer-primer?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI99iY5oPh_AIVWJBoCR01ZA7SEAQYESABEgJo9PD_BwE Backer board : totaltiles.co.uk/underfloor-heating-insulation-board-6mm.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqNWf5YTh_AIVEbrtCh3qgA_6EAQYBiABEgJc5fD_BwE Self levelling compound: www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ardex-k40-hb-high-build-fibre-reinforced-levelling-compound-22kg?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIneTjtobh_AIVRe7tCh30tAC7EAQYGCABEgLby_D_BwE Tile adhesive: www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-tile-fix-pro-ss-flex-polymer-modified-standard-set-flexible-c2te-20kg-grey?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiKLmpoXh_AIVmcftCh3ILwdVEAQYBiABEgKb9vD_BwE Grout lilleytileandstone.co.uk/mapei-ultracolor-plus-flexible-wall-floor-grout-see-options.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItdXT34Xh_AIV2YxoCR3MSg7_EAQYBSABEgLUwvD_BwE#93=74&138=323
I like your method but what if the material(backer board) that you glue and screw over timber floor is not available do you think a 5mm fibrolite sheet could be used as a substitute?
Hi I don’t know what this board ( fibrolite ) is designed for so I can’t really tell you if this is going to work. I am pretty sure you can get cement boards I most of the countries, maybe by different names. To be honest if the tile can make a good and strong bond with this board you can use it. Maybe you can do some testing.
Thanks for this step by step tutorial. I've followed your instructions/guidance and made a mistake with the floor levelling compound. The floor slopes! Would you recommend adding more levelling compound to the shallow end or make it up with a thicker layer of tile adhesive?
Hi , thank you for your message Depends how much it is . If is a small area and is not higher then 2cm you can make this with tile adhesive. Just make sure you have full coverage under the tile .
What makes you decide to not use the standard silicone flexible membrane backing for hardwood floors in this application? I can’t think of the exact name of what I’m referring to but it’s usually orange silicone type backing that goes on I see sometimes after the thin set which I presume would be used to partially level it out where it is close to that anyway. I guess I’m asking in part why no membrane here or you just prefer that first material you mentioned (insulating board?)?
Hi . The membrane is called Uncoupling membrane from Schluter . That membrane is not suitable for floorboards. It is only for ply, OSB and chipboard. For floorboards you need to use this one or cement boards, or other tile backer boards , no membranes.
Hi . In our case the pipes are exposed. If there are any pipes under the floor you should inspect them and if any joints need repair/ replacement you should do this before. If you have to do it after you can imagine that it will not be very easy.
Hi . The reason is because normal floorboards ( without tongue and groove) are moving separately from each other. By using a more rigid backer board ( no more ply , cement boards) you will reduce the chance to have cracks in the tiles. I never used 4mm boards. Always used 6mm or more.
@@valentinointeriors3023 thanks that makes sense. Would you still use adhesive to fix cement board down to floor boards? No More Ply seem to suggest their mega strength mastik is adequate.
@@871danwaters I am using adhesive all the time. I haven’t use no more ply . But if they are recommending something to stick down the board it should be ok . Just double check if this method works for your application.
Hi can this be applied to bathroom? Do we still use the same chemicals? I was thinking also maybe on top of the backerboard using membrane? So questions can be listed like this: -Cement boards or backer boards? -6m or 12 mm? -Im assuming i will still use primer that you used. No PVA?(on floorboards) -Do i need membrane on top of the cement/backer board? -the spactula. There are different size of gaps. do i use the small tooths or big ones?
Hi -cement board as it is more rigid. -12mm is better then 6mm if you an use . -you still need to use primer on the wood. -there is no need to install membrane over the cement board.
@@valentinointeriors3023 If you dont mind few more questions come to my mind. 1- Why 12 mm ? I guess i can make it 12 but its gonna make things go higher ofc. I have floorboards so i cannot remove them. instead of making 12 if i make 6 would i regret it? 2-Do i need to put some sort of water resistance chemical on top of the cement board? 3-As the door will be on the way, i guess i will have to shave from the bottom of the door correct? Thanks a lot
Hi It is called tile backer board. thisiswholesale.co.uk/next-day-building-material-supplies-uk-stock-wholesale-construction/tile-backer-insulation-cement-backing-hard-rigid-board-wall-floor-6mm-10mm-12mm-tile-adhesive-board?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-ZqgvPCv-wIVFpftCh1bbgTGEAQYASABEgKEWPD_BwE
In some areas we have hardwood and in some areas we have existing tiles. Now we want to do all porcelain tiles over existing hardwood and tiles. Is this possible?
@@EswaraiahChalla You can tile over the existing tiles if they are well fitted and don’t show any damage damage. You can’t tile directly over the hardwood. Ditra mat or backing board need to be used before tiling depending on what type of subfloor you have.
If I keep watching this I swear I'll start speaking with your accent. BTW, us Aussies can't readily buy the Ardex K40HB so get the sikafloor 4020 instead 👍
Very informative video, I want to tile in my kitchen which has old floorboards and pretty sure it's not even, but I do not want to tile under all existing cabinets I just want to tile on the open floor and where the appliances sit oven, fridge, washing machine. How do I make the floor level and the leveling compound will end up going under the cabinets...
Hi We normally lay some 2x1 or some scrap timber against the units legs and duct tape. If the self levelling is not too thick you can use duct tape without timber.
There should not be a leak. I am trying not to have connections under the floor where are not accessible ( at least from the ceiling below) . If there is a leak you will have a bigger problem than removing the back board.
@@valentinointeriors3023 Top job and completely agree with a cement board over normal ply, it makes a big difference to even the sound when you walk on the tiles. Would love to see a video mosaic tile installation. Can we have your number?
@@kawo666 Ok . I don’t know if you are a tiler , probably not. If you want to tile on plywood the plywood needs to be a very good quality. That will be more expensive than a backer board. So who is complicating things?
