Tinkering with another Model 59 motor from HMV 101 

The model 59 motor will be using the longer spring. That’s your 14 foot spring. Remember that this has a bent end in the middle and a pear shaped hole connecting to the spring barrel. Diameter 1 inch. The short spring is for the 410 motor. Easy way to tell the motors apart if for some reason you can’t read the markings is the model 59 is fully enclosed looks like a spam can. The 410 has a spring barrel where the top is held on with four little screws.

I never checked, and while I do own a micrometer I haven't set eyes on it in at least ten years. The bearing under the shaft is a loose fit, it rattles around in there, the ones on the governor shaft are a snug fit. They have a bit of room to move, but not much. I can say that the bearings under the shaft, and in the bearing caps are the same size.

@@Rockisland1903 Thanks, good tip about letting the end cap bearings 'soak' a few days to get them out, that worked a treat.

I have had a few so bad that it took weeks to free them. Mostly because of rust, with these I soaked them in Evaporust formula.

Every 101, and 102 uses felt pads to reduce vibration between the horn and the case. There will be more than one piece of felt in there, and it's just ordinary cheap felt scraps, not asbestos. It's the same as the felt I buy in rolls to replace the felt pads when I find them missing or bug eaten.

@Rockisland1903 yes I thought as much, just wanted to be careful so better to ask someone who knows their stuff

I am not sure I understand the question, are you working with a model 59 motor in one of the HMV Gramophones like in the video? The model 59, along with the rest of Victor and HMV's motors, don't use a screw to secure the spring inside the barrel. They use a pear shaped eye in the end of the spring that slips over a stud attached permanently to the inside of the barrel, or they use a bent end of the spring that hooks into a metal piece inside the spring. If your machine in not Victor, or HMV, and attaches the spring to the barrel with a screw then yes, you will have to remove the spring, reattach the spring with the screw, and put the spring back in.

@@Rockisland1903 Thanks for the advice. 🙇‍♂️ Here is a picture of my motor: drive.google.com/file/d/1rQ5LS0qDF1fjNFdso-hAEecR4G7udjac/view?usp=drivesdk Actually this is my first time to get a hand on an old gramophone and I don’t dare to dissemble the entire motor, so I “guess” it is model 59… I have mistakenly unscrewed the right top corner screw and created a sudden bang. May be I better find some dissemble video to learn how to fix it before I use it again.

That's the number 59 motor. You can remove these with the motorboard. Remove turntable, take the screws out that are around the edge of the board, remove auto brake if any, lift up by grasping the turntable spindle and levering the front part of the board up first. It gets stuck, sometimes you have to work at it a bit, or take it out as you did. Now you can pull the motor out and reattach it to the board for reassembly, then slip it back in. Once you see how it goes back in you will have a better idea how to take it out. If you haven't removed the motor from the case yet then you couldn't have taken anything on it apart yet. The bang you describe would be if you did start taking something on the motor itself apart without first fully unwinding the spring tension. If the motor is still in one piece and in it's span can cover try inserting the winding key ( crank handle) and winding it up. Then push the speed control lever forward to see if the motor will turn. Now that you have the motor fully off the board you will have to get a stroboscope disc and reset the speed to 78 rpm. Remember these discs are regulated to work with the old style incandescent light bulbs. You will have to remove the spam can cover to access the parts that need oil, like the friction leather. If you are not going to do the motor service yourself then now is a good time to send it out and have it done. I have serviced probably 30 HMV's by now, and one thing every one had in common was dry grease in the spring barrel, some so bad the motor locked up entirely. It needs service, if you are in the UK, or Europe there are people who do this, as there are here in the USA. It's not inexpensive work, but these machines are not cheap junk.

​@@Rockisland1903 Thanks for the help! ^^ The gramophone has been refurbished and greased before I received, so I guess I don't need to worry about lubricating problem for several months before I study more about the maintenance. :)

If you bought this from a dealer then trust but verify the servicing. I had one US customer import a nice 101 that was supposed to have been serviced. He brought it to me after various issues came up and I found the servicing was spraying the motor down with WD-40, I had to give the machine a full proper service. Taking the motor out, and disassembling it fully is time consuming and expensive, then we have the service of the N0 4 reproducer, and adjustment of speed and the tonearm mount, plus case repair or cleaning. Handle replacement, also. Lucky the leather handle is available in most colors, and not that expensive. Sellers try and skip some things, some because they just don't know enough about these machines to realize what needs doing, and others because they are gambling on the buyer never actually playing the machine. Or if the buyer plays the machine they won't realize it's not supposed to sound like junk. Here in the states a full service on a machine like this would run easily $200 USD, or more depending on who does it and what parts for the reproducer may be needed. If loose joins are found in the case, bad mainspring or governor, or other broken or missing parts you can be into it for a lot more. The average person can learn to do all this, but some mechanical aptitude and experience is necessary. I was taking much more complex things than phonographs apart before I disassembled my first VV-50, yet it took me time to learn how to service reproducers, and some tricks that Victrola Doctors use when rebuilding motors. While all the mechanical motors work pretty much the same way with similar parts each has it's own little twists. I learn something new each time I play with a new to me type of motor. Lately I have opened up a SAAL type AA from a 1916 Sears Silvertone. This was my first time dealing with mainsprings that were pinned in place rather than hooked. For me it's easier in that I have more tools at hand than I will ever use working on phonograph motors, plus a full array of chemicals for lubricating and cleaning, and a work area dedicated to these machines. For me it makes sense to have this as I heavily collect these machines and have 50-100 at any given time. There is no way I would pay out the thousands of dollars it would take to have others service them, and I am way to picky to be satisfied with someone else doing the work anyway. That's what started all this, my dissatisfaction with how an Exhibition reproducer I sent out was done. I learned to do it myself properly and went from there. You can figure this motor out, take your time, take lots of pictures of anything you are taking apart so you can reference them later if needed. One machine can lead to two machines, then five, then fifty.......