This video is about the Tinyhawk II Freestyle Review and Setup. Tinyhawk II Race - Props out setup link: • Tinyhawk II Race Revie... Joshua Bardwell link on setting up a model on Jumper T16: • Jumper T16 How To Bind...
Yea you'll love this little drone, did you end up going for it? I got mine at Xmas and changed the battery connection to XT30 so I'm running it with a single 2s battery. I found the X2 1s batteries a pain in the ass. Also using the Rate Profile 2 and its a great little drone for stunts and freestyle. Im not sure I would recommend it for a total beginner though, I reckon the TinyHawk 2 would be better suited for a beginner. They are more forgiving and seem to be almost indestructible. Gotta admit though that Emax make some damn good whoops. 😊
Seriously thinking about buying this as my first outside drone I have a tinyhawk 1 for indoors and this look perfect to get outside without breaking the bank
SLOG FPV I have to first freestyle is there any way you can download the configuration of the RTH to the first one I also already have the emax controller and goggles
@@sparkadventures3369 the Tinyhawk Freestyle version 1 should work fine with the Emax radio transmitter and goggles. The binding procedure and selecting the VTX band and channel are similar between the V1 and V2. I would not recommend just copying the CLI "diff all" output from a V2 to a V1. There are enough differences (e.g different VTXs) that you could cause problems unless you know what parts of the diff to paste into the CLI. Regards, SLOG
ty every time i get a new quad i forget the bind procedure. i get horrid horizontal bands with this quad. how do i know the vtx mw. maybe i set it high on accident and its beaming the sububs.
Can you provide any guidance on installing the prop mounting screws on the Freestyle 2? I have spent hours trying to line then up. I managed to get both screws in one prop and only one in the other three props. The screws fit so tightly in the props that you have to thread it into the prop and then into the motor. When I look down the screw hole it looks perfectly aliened however, when the screw contacts the motor it comes to a hard stop. I do not want to force it and end up stripping the holes in the motor. I think if the holes in the props were large enough for the screws to spin freely they would line right up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Hi Bill H, The sequence I go through is as follows: 1. Push the prop on the motor shaft (not all the way down). Move it back and forth just to loosen up the prop on the motor shaft . 2. Take the prop off and thread the prop screws in the hole and just keep turning to open up the prop hole a little. 3. Look at the motor bell where the screw threads are and put the prop on the shaft but not all the way down. Just close enough so you can get the screws starting to thread and you can also see if you are aligned properly. I also look down from the top to make sure I am lined up. 4. The prop screws should go through a little easier now. Turn the screw counter clockwise about a 1/4 of a turn to center the screw. I then lightly turn the screw clockwise, being careful not to cross thread it. I do not tighten it down all the way until I get the other screw in. This seems to work for me. SLOG
Thanks for the good content! Might be a dumb question but I’m so new to this. How can I unlock and adjust it from 25 to 200 MW VTx ? Thanks for any info 🙏🏽
Hi Jeremiah, to unlock the VTX you hold down the VTX button on top of the VTX board and then plug in the battery for ~5sec. That will unlock blocked channels and 200mW output. SLOG
I am a complet NOOB, first FPV drone ever.. I am having difficulties binding this drone to my Jumper 18. Not sure what the lights should look like on the drone. When I first plug in the batt the red, green and blue lights flash. I unplug one of the batts and have a model set up on Internal RF on the J18 as FrSky D8 and have the Bind highlighted. I then push and hold the Boot button on the FS II and plug in the Batt and the red and blue lights flashing, then I hit the Bind on the J18 it beeps then stops but the lights on the drone do not go solid, they keep blinking. Any help on how to bind this to the T18 is appreciated. Cheers
Hi Shadowrydr1, Sorry you are having issues. Two things. First, you do not hold down the boot button (on the top of the board) but rather the bind button on the button of the flight controller board (refer to video). Second, unlike an external sbus frsky receiver, you do not hold down the bind button and then plug in the battery. You plug in the battery first and then push on the bind button for 2 seconds. I cut and pasted the sequence from the Tinyhawk II Freestyle manual below. After the power cycle step 3, the blue LED on mine stays solid blue. Binding Procedure 1.Hold the bind button for 2 seconds while the flight controller is already on. When the RED LED is flashing, it means the receiver is in BIND MODE 2.Turn on the transmitter, make sure it is set to D8 mode, and then set it into bind mode. When the BLUE LED on the flight controller starts flashing, it means bind successful. 3.Power cycle the flight controller and take your radio out of bind mode. emax-usa.com 7 Alternate Binding Method It is possible to place the receiver into Bind Mode via the Betaflight configurator. In the CLI tab type in this command: bind_rx_spi Hit enter and your receiver should be in bind mode. Follow steps 2-3 from above to complete the binding process. I hope this helps. SLOG
Hi nice review where is the vtx unlock button as I can't seem to find it or it won't stay on 200 mw I thought I done it I have other channels but when I change to 200 mw it don't save cheers
Hi Ben Gilbert, To unlock the VTX, hold down the VTX button and then plug in the batteries. Release the VTX button. This sequence toggles between locking and unlocking the VTX. I hope this helps. SLOG
I just got this kit and it’s my first fpv drone. I am wondering how you get the footage from the drone. Do the goggles have an SD card or is it in the drone?
Hello TylerDD, Yes I went to props out which I run on all most all of my micro quads. Since this video was targeting beginner pilots I did not want to complicate the setup. The main reason why I go with props out is to bounce off of branches vs getting pulled into them. Also you gain a little efficiency on smaller micros. I am sure you already know this. Good eye :) SLOG
What size hex driver is used for the props? None of the sizes I have seem to fit and I can't seem to find the answer anywhere so I can buy the right size.
Hi Eric, the hex driver is 1.5 mm. I have no afilliation with NewBeeDrone but they have a great starter tool kit with hex drivers, wire cutter, soldering iron .... Great little kit if you are just starting out for $49.99-US. newbeedrone.com/collections/tools-and-building-equipment/products/tool-kit SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 damn, that's what I thought. I have a brand new 1.5 mm that was slipping. Must have come rounded. Bought it in a kit over a year ago so I can't even return it haha. Thanks man, maybe the rubber band trick will work 😂. I appreciate the reply and suggestions
Help! I'm having trouble getting mine (brand new) into 200mw... and "as is" is unusable - signal breaks up horribly. Not sure if I it shipped defective or if I'm doing something wrong. Any tips on getting it into 200mw? And... do I have to press that silly button EVERY time I plug in or, just the first time?
Hi FPVpastor, Sorry you are having issues. To unlock the VTX, hold down the VTX button and then plug in the batteries. Release the VTX button. This sequence toggles between locking and unlocking the VTX. Also some channels are cleaner than others. I find Fatshark band/channel 1 works good. I hope this helps. SLOG PS if you are unlocked, Race band/channel 1 will work. If locked, you will not have a video feed.
@@slogfpv5679 Tried that but seems to not be working. Will switch to some other goggles and see if I get the same results. Thanks for the reply though, as you've confirmed I'm doing the process correctly... and that's HUGE / gives me confidence I'm not just doing it wrong! :) Super grateful, thank you!
FPVpastor I bought 2 of these. The VTX seems to be hit or miss. Some work great, others are complete garbage. I got 2 complete garbage. I can not fly more than about 20 yards. Unlocked, range is about the same on both of mine. Too bad 1 had a QC issue and an esc fried within seconds of 1st flight. I’m done buying Emax BNF now. I’ll just build my own shit.
@@crashnburnfpv1757 Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I gave up. Couldn't get either of them to work. I think I'm in agreement with you / done buying Emax BNF. Bummer as I'm loving other peoples videos of them / seems to fly great WHEN THEY WORK.
Do I have to be very gentle on controls? I am a beginner and on my first flight I shot up and crashed into some mud. I’m just looking for some advice please
Hi @mdw8977, yes with these lighter models throttle management is critical. I would practice just hovering in angle mode a few feet off the ground until you get used to it. Also practicing in a simulator will help. It just takes some patience and a little practice. Happy flying, SLOG
So I’m an absolute begginer haven’t even ordered my first fpv yet but how do I connect the goggles to it and what goggles do you recommend all the ones I’ve been looking at are out of stock
Hi, There are so many options right now it is a very difficult question to answer. Before I started in FPV several years ago, I was into cine-photography quads. I actually learned FPV flying a tinywhoop outdoors on calm days. I would say I had middle tier goggles and RC transmitter. But I was all in. If you are on a budget, and are not sure you will like FPV, there are a lot of Ready To Fly kits out there. However, you will quickly outgrow the kit if you stay in the hobby. Nick Burns and Albert Kim do a great job at reviewing RTF kits. Links below. I would recommend either a 75mm whoop (flies better outdoors) or a 2.5 cine-whoop (analog or HD) as they are a pusher with prop guards and fly very stable, even in acro mode. If money is no object, I would go with a GepRC CineLog 25 HD (crossfire version), TBS Tango II RC transmitter (if you like game style) or the Radio MasterTX16S (larger radio). For goggles, I would go with DJI Goggles (can add an analog module) as the HD video feed is a game changer. Joshu Bardwell does a good job at comparing entry, mid and high end FPV gear. Link below. Albert Kim ru-vid.com Nick Burns ru-vid.com Joshua Bardwell Buyers Guide www.fpvknowitall.com Cheers, SLOG
Can anyone help me from start to finish? I recently bought a taranis q x7 and a XJT transmitter with a tiny hawk freestyle 2 and I’ve literally watched every video around it and cant get it to respond to ANYTHING. Tried binding through beta flight and on the physical controller. I’m kinda at a loss because I can’t find a video that fully explains what I’m supposed to do. Starting to think I may have wasted my money because I’m at such a loss of knowledge. If anyone can help please for the love of god, do. I don’t understand what to do.
Hi Jared, Emax USA has a step by step video on how to bind a FRSKY transmitter in D8 mode with a XJT module. They are using a Tinyhawk Race which has the same flight controller as the Freestyle version. If you cannot get it to bind after following the steps, I would contact EMAX support as you may have a defective quad, if you have already bound to other quads with your QX7. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jXHPY3V3JQY.html
I really want to purchase this but the only thing stopping me is I’m worried the goggles won’t fit with my glasses does anyone know if these goggles are manageable if u wear glasses ?
I would use lower cost analog box goggles if you are new to the hobby. Eachine EV800D are a budget model that are not too bad (see link below for Joshua Bardwell's thoughts). Your glasses should fit. For other goggles you can get inserts for eye correction. More expensive googles like HDO2s you can adjust but are spendy and you might want to consider going digital if you are spending that much. www.fpvknowitall.com/fpv-shopping-list-goggles-video-transmitters-and-cameras/#goggles
I don’t understand why mine won’t fly, I’ve binded it to my controller but when I arm it the red light just blinks. I have no idea what’s wrong can anyone help?
Hello Timothy, The easiest way to debug arming issues is to make sure warnings are enabled in your OSD (Betaflight Config Setting). After you try to arm, it should tell you in the OSD why it is not arming. Here is a good link from Oscar Liang: oscarliang.com/quad-arming-issue-fix/
Hello, could you help me with something please. So, recently I have accidentally burned 2 different FC boards on my Tiny Hawk Freestyle 2! I solder all my motors, and then check all joints and they are very clean. I plug in my two 1s batteries to the pig tail, and the drone chimes up as normal and all is well. I then go to EMAX and get the proper THF2 CLI command for my new flight controller, and go into Beta Flight uploading it to the drone, again all is successful. I bind to the original EMAX E-6 radio, and it is bound. Now, when I give the drone about 1/4 throttle.......it throttles up very high, loses control and flips off the table. I try it a few more times and same conclusion, but now......the smoke is let out of my FC:( DO YOU KNOW IF I need to set the new FC to 2s lipo batteries before trying to fly it? It seems like that is what is going on, because if I was using two 1s(2s total) and the drone is set for 1s, wouldn't that possibly cause this issue? Any advice you have would be very helpful, thanks:):):)
Hi ifeetz76, Betaflight automatically determines how many cell battery your quad is using based off of the input voltage. It can get messed up if you are running HV 4.35v batteries so that is why you need to set your "maximum cell voltage" to 4.4v. What your describing does not sound like that is the issue. It sounds to me like you have a motor mapping issue or your board/gryo sensor alignment is not correct. Also double check that your props are on correctly. Do a "diff all" and you should see the following motor mapping and gyro sensor alignment. resource MOTOR 1 B06 resource MOTOR 2 B08 resource MOTOR 3 B10 resource MOTOR 4 B07 set gyro_1_sensor_align = CW270 set gyro_1_align_yaw = 2700 SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 Thanks for your response, but this is the flight controller I received. It only came with a 1s battery connector, as you can see in the picture. But, I soldered my tiny hawk freestyle 2 pigtail to this board, and attempted to fly it on two 1s lipos. But now I am wondering, why do they only send you a single 1s connector?
@@ifeetz7612 The EMAX TinyHawk II AIO FC is used on the Race, Freestyle and Whoop versions so soldering on the Freestyle pigtail should be fine (you may want to reach out to Emax Support). But since you soldered on the motor wires, did you check all the motor directions with the props off? Go into the motors tab in the Betaflight Configurator and make sure you're motors are spinning the right direct. You can reverse the direction in BLHELI Configurator. SLOG
Hi, I just brought a Tinyhawk2 and my son in Bataflight after doing a Backup, perform a reset, and even after a restore the drone is like dead no more everything, do you have any idea what can I do to put it back to work? I will really appreciate it. Thanks
@@slogfpv5679 It restores it back, but it refuses to lift up, he keep going on the side, I did a calibration nothing has changed so far. Any More Ideas? Thanks
@@tesimpamonami9188 Did you check the propeller orientation/direction for a props in configuration? The Tinyhawk manual has a good diagram for the prop orientation/direction. Also make sure your channels are mapped correctly. Refer to my video. Since you are having issues I would go into betaflight configurator and look at the channel mapping in the receiver tab. Also make sure the quad in the preview section is not spinning when the radio transmitter is connected (make sure your props are removed).
Hi Jeremiah, Seems like your VTX is still not unlocked. Try the procedure again. But first, try Fatshark Band, Channel 1. If you can now see your FPV feed then you are locked out. Here is a link to the manual for the Tinyhawk II Race. It includes the procedure and what channels are locked out. www.rc-netbutik.dk/upload_dir/shop/Tinyhawk-II-Freestyle-BNF-Instruction-Manual-v1.5.pdf
Hi Nathan, No I don’t know the top speed as I don’t have a speed gun. I do know Emax specs the Tinyhawk 2 Race at 50mph so the Freestyle is probably close. I would guess about 45mph. SLOG
@Chaos HamsterG, unfortunately FRSKY broke backward compatibility with D8 when they released ACCST 2.0. A lot of pilots are upset over this as it makes the radios running ACCST 2.0 or greater incompatible with 3rd party Frsky receivers. Here is an article from Oscar Liang on the topic. oscarliang.com/accst-2/ I would recommend getting a Multi-protocol module as they are not that expensive. SLOG
also, im very bad when it comes to multiprotocol devices. where could i find one? also i dont think i need a multi protocol module. i have xjt D8 and the modules i see right now to bind to tinywhoops after the accst 2.0 update is xjt modules. i have xjt D8 mode on my transmitter
@@ChaosHamsterG, This is the one I have. It will fit in your JR bay. usa-m.banggood.com/IRangeX-IRX4-Plus-2_4G-CC2500-NRF24L01-A7105-CYRF6936-4-IN-1-Multiprotocol-ARM-TX-Module-With-Case-p-1225080.html?gmcCountry=US&SSC-usg-sku-1019-xp-cvrcart-11sale-21¤cy=USD&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&ad_id=554267045258&gbraid=0AAAAADshcaXWhHOjPDwFKzE90bp1_Bqrm&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_JWOBhDRARIsANymNObtHsFb6KKSQWM-EUEh4yPWkcUFcU0a9aP3HBO_4kV_B6c7w5LJ0jcaAqpzEALw_wcB . Cheers, SLOG
That depends on if you upgraded the QX7 firmware to ACCST 2.0. If you have, it will not. Here is a video from Joshua Bardwell that explains the compatibility issue with ACCST 2.0 FrSky won't bind! ACCST 2.0 is to blame. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-09g5MfTdiyw.html
@@wing_it It may already be at ACCST 2.0 and you may have to downgrade the FW. Just check the version like what Joshua shows you how to do. He has some good videos on his channel on how to do that. Cheers, SLOG
well you helped me find the bind button, but you aren't using the controller or goggles that come with the kit, so set up isn't really helpful. most nice controllers have this menus, so thats really straight forward
Hi Neon Rei, I only have the bind and fly (BNF) and not the Ready To Fly (RTF) kit. But to answer your question go to 6:18 in the video and I show where the bind button is (bottom of the flight controller with a label "bind"). You can also go into the CLI and type bind_rx_spi SLOG
Good video but I'm not going to lie, it gave me anxiety using a different setup than what comes with the kit. For a beginner looking for an "review and setup video" as labeled was totally lost going through that section. Just a thought, don't mean to come off like an a**hole, maybe I'm just frustrated with the unboxing and setup of my own (mine is just beeping). TY
Hi, Nick I get your frustration as there is a steep learning curve for setting up a quad as there are a lot of variables ie rc transmitter protocol, goggles/rc transmitter make and model compatibility. The good news is Betaflight 4.3 and configurator 10.8 has improved things since my video was made. It is very difficult to make an all encompassing video as it would be very long. However, Joshua Bardwell IMHO does an excellent job at doing this. So I would recommend the following series: Betaflight 4.3 Install, Flash, Setup Tab | Complete walkthrough ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LkBWRiEGKTI.html If you are having problems binding to your rc transmitter I would suggest the following video as you maybe running into a compatibility issue with the version of FRSKY you have on your transmitter. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-09g5MfTdiyw.html Hope this helps SLOG
Hi Killerking121, I would need more information to help. When you say will not connect, do you mean it will not bind (connect to your RC Transmitter) or are you not able to see video in your goggles? If it is a bind issue, what type of RC transmitter are you using? Also what step failed when you were going through the bind process in my video? Lastly, what is the LED for the SPI receiver doing? Refer to my video on its location. SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 Thank you so much for your respons. I spen 7 hours today to fix the problem I have a x9d+ 2019 controller but the frequenz is on D16. The drone has D8 so I wanted to change the controller to D8 and destroyd it nearly. I finally got it back but than I want to flash the drone to D16 but nothing works. Do you have maybe a clue how I can fix it?
@@killerking1216 The x9d+2019 is a great radio, however, Frysky broke backward compatibility when they came out with ACCST 2.0. The Tinyhawk Freestyle II does not support ACCST 2.0 but does support D16. Unfortunately, if you have upgraded your transmitter to ACCST 2.0 it will not work. I will point you to a video from Joshua Bardwell that explains the problem. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-09g5MfTdiyw.html Your options are downgrade to pre-2.0 ACCST firmware or buy a cheap multi-protocol module (not too expensive). I would check your fw version. If pre-2.0 you can bind in D16. See my video below 6min in. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rKKxqxjSeGI.html
@@killerking1216 No that RC transmitter does not support D8. But the Tinyhawk II supports D16 ACCST 1.x but not 2.x firmware. I know it is confusing and why people have moved away from FRSKY if you fly whoop or micro class quads. Most of them do not support the new D16 ACCST 2.x protocol unless they have FRSKY receivers. The only difference between D8 and D16 is the number of channels. D8=8 channels and D16=16 channels. However, D8 has lower latency than D16.