Tetkoba-san! I tried your method and it worked close to what you demonstrated. I made a few mistakes, but overall the stove worked. For your experience, I boiled water outdoors in 42 degree F weather. It took 500ml of water about 8 minutes to boil. Thank you again for your wonderful instruction.
We are project, working in ethanol as household fuel. It's a great pleasure to follow up and learn from what you're doing. Few researchs are doing in this field and no company is now able to respond to our request, Very embarrassing situation. Always a big thanks for sharing
As always, incredible workmanship. It is truly amazing what you are able to do with simple tools. Your "adding fuel" test makes me think this stove design could be used to make a remote canister stove.
i made the rift stove -worked great; much better than my penny stoves. i really want to try this new capillary hoop stove. please let us know when the more fuel efficient stove has been designed! Appreciatively, a big fan of your creativity
Very good design! I copied CHS and Rift stove and they are good in outdoor use, very dependable. I use 0.33l (~11 oz) Pepsi cans and with some accuracy I can build Rift stove without epoxy. Thank you for sharing you beatifully engineered constructions!
wow, I've just finished mine! I sanded 0.5mm off the top piece to fit better with the middle piece, I also used red gasket sealant too. Unfortunately, the middle piece had 2 big creases when I inserted it into the bottom piece which bubbled while it burned fuel, next time I need to make all my creases a bit deeper so it fits in to the bottom piece better. Thanks a lot for your excellent design ideas and experimentation.
Hola, yo admiro tu pasion por las cosas bien hechas, y no solo lo funcional, sino tambien lo estetico, gracias por compartir tu arte y tu creatividad, de verdad se agradece, Manuel de Venezuela...
that´s the reason of driving a japanes car. they are almost perect. love to see how you assemble the parts. very good video. You get my like and you earned it. Thumbs up for Nippon.
Thanks for the extra details! I have been making the grooves with needle nose pliers and twisting... not as neat as using a ruler, but much faster to do. For strip skirt I am testing using hole puncher, again faster to do.
I like the simplicity of CHS but I noticed it's a fuel hog compared to the hoop stove. I'm also working on a CHS that is fully adjustable, I will post the video when its done.
hi tetkoba. I just watched your videos and going to try make one(maybe I'll start with CHS) but I want to ask you because I still dont know much about the mechanism of alcohol stoves what type is used by trangia stove? open jet?
Do you drill the bolt holes in the inner crease can piece before or after installing it when wanting to add bolts? As in, put it all together, then drill or pre-drill the holes in the outer can and inner crease can? Love the videos, very creative!
How do you get your jets to angle? I am having trouble getting them to spiral. When I drill them out (even when done at an angle) they still burn straight up. Also, how do you know where in the right to place the burn holes. Through my trial and error, it seems that it matters. Thanks, great videos!
hello Tetkoba, I have a question. At 2:14 you say scratch but do not detach yet. What tool do you use to make the scratch around the can? Thank you for the great design!
Very nice, I would you to ask you the Vargo 'Copper Pipe' for adding alcohol when using, I have Vargo Alcohol Bottle, how to make the Copper pipe, thanks a lot.
I forgot to ask, could you please give the diameter of the can you start with? I believe the cans I have a slightly different in size, and I need to know by how much to adjust your measurements. Again, thanks!
Tetkoba-san, this video and the original video do not show how you measured and drilled the jet holes for a CHS-U type stove. I see one for the eCHS, but that is drilling through a can top. Is there a video for drill the jet holes in the bottom of a can for a CHS-U?
Do you design/fabricate anything else aside from stoves? (I bet you'd be great pioneering diy engines; mayhaps, to cushion the departure, pulse-jet innovations?)
Jack Reacher once the skirt is creased it seems like it reduces the dia. just enough and slides in quite easily for me. i used just regular soda cans to make mine, worked just fine.
Jack Reacher The burner part with the jets, though the same diameter as well and not creased, will go in with a little pressure. Aluminum will stretch a little, but don't use too much force or it can tear or deform leaving a noticable bulge in the outer part.
Great, thanks for the prompt response! I will probably post another question if it arises, i find the two separate videos for the build a bit confusing, but I should be fine. I think I don't understand the jet port drill part. Should the ports be drilled at an angle? Or straight in? Will a thumb tack be ok for the width?
I'm making detailed how to make video but maybe end of this month. In this video two V8 juice cans are used. I always drill by 0.5mm dia. at first(straight). And drill by 0.7 or 0.8mm dia. with angle.
Jerkabobber Yes, I'm pretty sure every part is made of a bottom of a Red Bull can, and we need 3 parts. Can't wait for the V8 CHS version ... V8 juice is the stuff I can actually drink ) Red Bull just goes to waste
i've tried this layout on 6,5 cm can, with the same creases and jet hole, but the combustion is not stable. can you tell, how much creases and jet holes should i make? thx, sorry too many question.
I'm not sure its detailed phenomenon and reason. Also I've not found optimized number of creases/jet hole yet. By my two/three trial models, 10 jets is good for 65mm diameter cans. Although I have no answer for number of creases, I think 20-24 creases is better. And smaller hoop capacity is one of important points. Hope this helps.
Sorry I don't sell. But my friend will start eBay shop and then you can buy. I'll make review video of him stove and other stuff in this month. Stay tuned!
