The toe out is what makes a bigger difference in tire wear not the camber . Negative camber doesn't wear tire as much as people think, especially for only having just over -1 In the video shown
That was the case on my car too. More toe than camber. I run 2 degrees neg to help with turn in and normally tire wear is decent with rotating but the toe in killed my tires in months.
100% agree, with camber being out of spec by 0.1 Degrees on the left and technically in spec on the right I would expect almost no noticeable wear. However having -0.40 degrees of total toe when +0.10 degrees is the spec, absolutely will wear tires. I'd definitely fix the camber anyway but for the sake being accurate in the story, toe is definitely the problem.
I have a Honda civic so 2006 and I got -2 on my rear tires, I have to replace my front tires now but rear ones are surprisingly in good shape, Toe out as you said sir 🎉
Its also important to look at how the tire is wearing. In my experience, i have seen toe cause festhering and camber have more straight line wear. Combined, they seemed to create like a ripple or wavy wear pattern on the tire.
I have rear wheel drive and my new back tires went bald in three months… got an alignment last month and my rear driver side tire sticks outs from left to right. Left side more inwards. Tire is wear down more on the outside then inside. Replace my front strut and check my shocks. My car was swaying when it rained heavy too. I’m still wondering why my tire is sticking out like that before waste money on new tires again
I have same problem. Adjustable camber kit is the answer or upgraded ones. I went adjustable after going through over 1000 on just rear tyres. Good kit cost me 1300 no ebay cheapie where it has been known to snap.
Had these problems and I think that they didn’t know what they were doing when they lined it up. So I got an alignment and then 3 months later I was buying tires smh
Toe in or out will wear tires faster and a bit differently. Some cars are set with a certain amount of negative camber. For example, some of the 2010s models of Dodge Chargers. The real wheels look out spec but they are just set negative by the manufacturer.
I see that many have disagreement witb my diagnosis of this particular alignment. Thats cool. I may have been wrong. But check it. I am self taught. Ive learned through trial and error and i am still learning. I share these videos to share my experiences and to get a convo going. I hope that my videos and the comments may help other technicians. So i asl this of anyone who leaves a critical comment. Take that critical energy and use to help a technician that you work with.
I was a service writer also and I tried to explain this to customers. For some, its more beneficial to replace the tires and get an alignment rather that replace the worn suspension parts.
I have the same problem, but on the outside and the allignment and suspension are ok. My mechanic says that I am pushing the car way too hard for street use.(kind of pushing in the corners)
From your comment, it sounds like you enjoy 😉 driving!!! I do too. I make sure to keep my tires inflated and my rotated. I always look at tires to wheels like shoes to feet. Driving habits have just as much of an effect on tire wear as the alignment.
If you are doing a lot of hard cornering, you may want to set camber and toe a little differently than the book spec. For example, if the spec calls for 1/4 degree positive camber and 1/8 inch toe-in, you can ask the technician to set to zero to 1/8 negative camber and 1/16 toe out. That will help keep the tire from rolling under on high speed corners. You have to find a tech who is willing to be creative with adjustments. You might also talk to some race mechanics who set up cars for road course racing. Most factory settings are for straight line driving, tire wear and minimal steering correction while driving on the highway. In your situation, you need less positive/ more negative camber and less toe -in/ more toe out. The trade-off is the car will want to wander on straight, flat roads. Good luck.
@@deanmeyer1815I drive my daily on the mountain, and on my new set of ps5's I've noticed the shoulder is wearing. I need your advice: Would increasing tire pressure and lowering the car help? (I run 40psi hot) I can't adjust camber at the moment.
Check your tire pressures when cold. I would run with the max listed on the tire sidewall. Invest in a tire wear gauge and check periodically. Lowering the suspension won't do much good if you can't adjust the alignment. install a kit so you can adjust the camber and caster before a lowering kit. As long as you drive on curving mountain roads, the factory specs are not much help. Find a good alignment shop that does more than go by the book, there is likely a sports car club in your area that can help with recommendations. just keep in mind, when you drive hard, even tire wear is almost impossible.@@PROofHAPPYWHEELS
You're right about the toe but that wasn't the case in this instance. I've had vehicles with camber in spec and toed out. It created more of a feathering effect vs simply wearing down the inner most tread.
My chrysler 300 burns up more then that like bout 3 inches of tire burn up they sit sideways mechanic said theres no cambers something has to be bent at a body shop he said but you think its just this what your doing?
If I remember correctly, the only way to make camber adjustments on some of the Chrysler and Dodge passenger cars is to shift the subframe. Is the suspension in good worker order? (front and rear) Worn out suspension components can cause this condition. Did you buy the car used? Sometimes, there can be unknown/or undisclosed damage to a vehicle. It may be worth it to take it to a body shop to make that the unibody isn't damaged. Or you may just want to take to another shop and get a second opinion.
