This was a great video. Very easy to understand. I am the amateurest of amateurs 😂. I am photographing my son in marching band and thought searching "sports photography" would help. I believe I can use these same rules for marching band photography, mostly night games. I am shooting on a Canon EOS R10 w/ a Canon RF 100-400 f/5.6-8 IS USM.
Brother, that was the smartest 13-minute use of my time in months. THANK you. About half of it was common sense for a low-intermediate like myself but I learned at least four new things and I appreciate it. I'll be watching this one again another half dozen times and just before the next bunch of games I photograph. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! I would say that everything explained in this video is applicable whether you're an amateur or someone who has more experience photographing sports, great question!
@RMSPtv I get that but I don't like how it would jump so high and anything over ISO 1000 I don't like the outcome. I do pro boxing and muay thai and I normally don't go higher than iso 1000. And depending on the lighting i would go from 640 to 1000. But I also only go as high as 1/250 when it comes to my shudder so thats why. But I like how some things you broke down. I just hate noise and I use a apsc body for work so that's why I stay under 1000. If I had a full frame I would probably go higher. I have a big event tomorrow I have to do so I may try a higher shudder to see if I like the results. Awesome video too, keep shooting👍🏿
you forgot to go over focus point selection single point 9 point 25 point tracking etc etc.. as many will go out there in Auto mode and not get anything they want in focus :)
@@heathcriswell Problem is each camera system today does it all different.. Example with the new canon if you pick vehicle tracking it will look for a helmet so if you are shooting say motocross or street bikes it will try to lock on a helmet. Now an older say A9 V1 does not have vehicle tracking also its tracking center point will find the CLOSEST thing to the camera while tracking so you might miss the helmet or part of the subject, even with mirrorless you might end up going back to a zone or single point just like the old DSLR days of Group or again single point to get exactly what you want. you have to experiment..
This is a great video, it's straight to the point and explained perfectly - thank you! I'm actually an amateur photographer and have my first photography event coming up where I will be photographing gymnasts in a gymnasium, so now moving onto your video for setting a custom white balance!! Subscribed.- well done!
True! However in order for Auto ISO to work properly, you need to be in Manual mode and not A or S to ensure you have full control over Aperture and Shutter Speed.
Very good…thx for the effort! How is the noise on the x-h2s at 6400 and 12800? Having a 200/2 indoors on a crop sensor for basketball is tempting but iso is normally at 6400 minimum in high school gyms.
Nicely done! :-) You briefly touched on indoor sports (e.g. basketball, volleyball, etc.). I'd like to see a video on setting up for indoor action, especially now that we're in winter sports season. Note that such a video would apply to swim meets, wrestling matches and judo/karate and similar events, all situations my students struggle with. Happy Thanksgiving! 🙂
Great video on sport’s photography…best one I’ve seen in fact. I’m shooting youth league football at night under the lights with a Panasonic GH4 and I’m struggling finding the right settings. I get a lot of blurry and grainy photos and it’s driving me nuts! I’m going to try your suggestions and see how things go. Thanks!
The most helpful video I've found! I've been struggling a bit coming back to photography, specially sports photography (handball), and this is a great video. Thanks!
I'm neither a novice, nor a pro at sports photography, so I actually did find the video helpful. Mostly in the sense that it confirmed some of the things I am already doing. Although the part about back button focus is something I should really consider.
Great video!! Thanks. It will be fantastic if you can add some material on Focusing Points and best setting of those for sports like football or rugby. Thanks again for sharing your expertise. Best
Thank you for this. I have been using manual for a while but was stressed and disappointed at my adjustment of ISO not always working out right as my lighting conditions changed quickly. Only recently fell upon Aperature priority but this has given me the motivation to get back to manual and continue learning!
Thanks a lot !!! matricial measure, but... what about the focus point selection single point 9 point 25 point tracking etc etc.. i gonna to experiment..
I mostly shot weddings and concerts, but never sports.... if I use a 1DX-i and a 70-200 2.8 for sports, do you recomend shooting with a 2x extender, or is it better to shoot clean lens and crop instead do you think?
Another great video Forest. Here is a question that I hope gets your "Great Question!" response ;) To set to auto ISO, my Nikon Z6 says that this setting "not available at current settings". However, I can rotate sub-command dial to "ISO-A" but I don't think that is true Auto ISO. Thx ms
Great question! 😂 I just did a bit of research and it looks like the ISO-A is your auto ISO setting. Here’s an article from Nikon. nps.nikonimaging.com/technical_info/technical_solutions/z7_2_z6_2_tips/sports_ae/
Would welcome a more advanced video on the af-c area (single point & Single point size vs zone) and what Fujifilm Af-c custom settings you find most effective for field sports.
very well video what abt when u have to do a soccer game in plain day light 1pm what adjustments will u recommend i currently use a D850 with a nikon 70-200
Even at 1/8000 at f2.0 during mid day, you’ll have blown highlights. I have had to switch the aperture to f9.0 to keep the highlights from getting blown out. Also, what do you do with WB? I find that on sunny days, especially, on a baseball field, soccer field, etc. I get too much color cast. Trying to get the WB correct in camera as PP takes too Long.
True! Electronic shutter can help you get to even faster shutter speeds though which will make f/2 easily attainable. That's strange you are seeing a color case on sunny days. If it were me, I would set my WB to "Daylight" and capture an image of a white piece of paper sometime during the game. Then, when I'm back in LR, I'd do a bulk edit and correct the WB for that white paper and paste it to all of the other images from the game. Should take about 30 seconds to correct the WB on thousands of images.
Pardon me for asking... I recently started to shoot a couple of local ultra running events during my down time... I noticed that I'll be having trouble if the run was during noon/mid day and my pictures were severely overexposed. What filter I can use to overcome this or is it enough with just adjusting exposure compensation on playing around with shutter speed. Thank you in advance for your answer.
Hmmm. It sounds like your camera simply has too much light and isn't able to compensate with the other changes. Be sure you are at your base ISO (most likely 100 or 200) and that yo are allowing your shutter speed to go up to 1/4000 or 1/8000 of a second.
My own experiences - I never shoot wide open. Lenses have a sweet spot and fully wide, even with my Canon L series glass, gives issues with vignetting and pin cushioning. It's slight, but if you know it's there you will always see it. I would advise finding the sweet spot and using that (on my 70-200 f/2.8 L it's f/3.5) this is plenty good enough with that lens with the camera I have, a 1 DX MKI. Also never use IS. This is one of the first bits of advice I was given by a pro sports photographer when I started out. Personally I don't shoot RAW and neither do any of the pros I've known. At the end of the day the best way to learn is to do it and see what works for you best. :)
@@forestchaput I hope that didn't sound dismissive of the video, all advice given by those trying to assist me did help me when I was starting out. I just had to learn what worked for me as I went along and discard the rest. None of it was bad advice, some of it just didn't work for me. For example I used RAW when I first started out in low light situations, but the buffer filling up (and also the memory card!) made me switch to shooting just jpeg. The pros I met/knew simply confirmed my choice when giving me tips on how they did their jobs.
I’m super new to sports photography primarily soccer . It started with just taking his photos then parents liked the photos I took of my son and asked me to take their kids …. I was taking All the photos in 16:9 bc I thought that’s what it needed to be but I read somewhere 3:4 is best …. Wats your take. I got a Sony A7R v Xmas this was awesome
Okay. Gotta question for you. I'm shooting curling at the end of the month. I don't really think these settings would be necessary. At least the shutter speed anyway. Plus these are high school students. What settings would you recommend?
I'd probably stick with exactly what I have in the video. You might be able to use a slower shutter speed, but you might get motion blur so you would need to experiment.
Really enjoyed this video as I'm getting into sports content creation. Question regarding white balance - if you are using a ND filter to assist with days when it's very or solid sunny day, then would you still set your white balance to sunny or just set it to auto?
Great question! Personally, I would never use an ND filter for sports photography as there’s never a reason to not use the fastest possible shutter speed. All an ND filter does is cut out light, which then forces you to either use a slower shutter speed or higher ISO, both of which are undesirable for sports photography. ND filters are mostly useful for video or landscape photography where using a slower shutter speed is important.
K - makes sense. I've been following a couple of MLB content creators and they both use ND filters so trying to identify when it's good to use them. I'm going to start experimenting this weekend with some college softball and see what results I get with and without @@forestchaput