What I can figure is that if banged or dropped on the but it will close bolt/chamber inadvertently with the "auto release". Lawyers being lawyers, level of safety. They know you can get one if you want it changed. Big companies will fall on the side of least liability.
Instead of spending $12 or more for a non metal bolt buffer, go to the hardware store and purchase a 1/4" dia nylon rod for $1,25 and cut to length. Instead of spending ANY $ on the bold release, simply take the stock one out and use a rat tailed file to oval out the "7" looking feature. I helps if you can look at the picture of the Volquartsen item as you do it. Forget the HiViz sights and install a 20 MOA pic rail and a .22 specific scope like the BSA Sweet.22 for about $100. I don't like those big long mag releases either, I'm always accidentally releasing them. I DID change to a long one by the manufacturer of my Bullpup stock, because it's a PITA with the stock Ruger item. The stock Ruger release is fine in everything else. The biggest improvement is a 20" bull barrel. Groups are much smaller. But they can cost more than the gun did. You're welcome.
The Ruger bolt catch has always been such a strange and awkward design. I still have my 10/22 from 1993 as well as a newer build and it's identical. I think I need to upgrade. I wonder if Brownells has an "open box / destroyed by Caleb" discount section.
You can modify the Ruger part to work like the aftermarket types by using a Dremel tool or a small file. Just get rid of that pointed tit. I did this 25 years ago when no one offered it.
@@evilscience3164 I did the same to mine about 20 some years ago. It is such a simple modification. At today's prices for those things, it will save you $10-20 that you could put toward one of the other items Caleb mentioned.
I recommend the Ruger BX22 replacement trigger module. You get the hammer, trigger and a extended magazine release all the bits in a polymer unit. Push out 2 pins, R and R the units and done. The trigger pull is Sooooo much better than stock it usually takes me a couple shots to remember how light it is now.
One last update that makes the 10/22 soooooooo much better: Volquartson's Exact Edge Extractor. It solved extraction problems with several of my 10/22s. Now, it's a standard upgrade to all of my 10/22s.
I only have one 10/22. Bought it back in 1986, from K-mart. They're a great little shooter. Been thinking about getting the take down model. Just seems the money always ends up going to other priorities. The upgrades you showed are something I'm going to look into. Thanks for the informative video.
I know what you mean about the money situation. There's hardly a such thing as "extra money" these days. I have had the take down model for about 7-8 years now and man it's one of my all time favorite guns I've owned, and I've owned a ton. It's so simple to take apart and put together and it's super strong and reliable. The bag they come with will hold a lot of stuff too. I keep 5 BX25 mags in mine and extra ammo as well as a couple small tools just in case lol. I can't say enough good things about it and I hope one day soon you can have one yourself.
I did this on mine. Super easy fix. I also did a trigger job to get the factory trigger feel more like a custom trigger, but I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself unless you really know what you're doing.
I've had my 10/22 since I was 19. Over fifty years now. Not going to modify it in any way. However, I think it's time to build one and get fancy with it. Will do it slowly. Don't even want to think about the cost.
I always take the stock bolt hold open out and grind down that tab. That way I save 20 some bucks on buying a aftermarket one. Either I’m cheap or thrifty. 😃
Kidd designs guide rod is way better, interchangeable spring rates for different ammo types and barrel lengths. File your bolt catch down yourself, only takes a few minutes. Get a polyurethane bolt stop instead of rubber, it'll last longer and is the same reduction in sound for the action per shot.
The bolt release is a mod you can do to the factory part.. All you have to do it file/grind/dremel the notch out of the circle and make that round... costs free fifty..
I've had my 10/22 for 48 years and the only upgrade I've done is the bolt buffer. I did it before it was a "thing" and machined my own out of a steel rod with 2 o-rings to reduce the slam of the bolt. It was one of my first lathe projects. Otherwise, I have been fine with it the way it is.
I would add the "Gunsmither Bolt Bar" sold by Tandenkross (though made by someone else). Greatly simplifies bolt removal and replacement, with only two hands. Also removal and replacement of extractor -- all of which are necessary for complete cleaning.
The best way to improve the Ruger is to make the stocks comb height HIGHER !!!with a good Optic/scope fitted the eye line is way too low needing some considerable elevation. SO, go to it Ruger & present a proper stock.!
Would be nice to have links for these items. Not sure if youtube allows it in this day and age. Most usefull upgrade is bolt release which anybody can DIY in an hour. Mag realease is good one. Anything else is really oltiknsl IMHO. On mine I changed stock to Fab Defense collapsible and installed pic rail.
No need to buy the bolt release plate. All you gotta do is shave out the small pointed section in the factory plate. It's a 5 minute modification that costs nothing
Dont buy the tactical solutions bolt buffer. Mine is so tight it wont go through the holes in the receiver. I had to use a pliers to pull it out after only getting it to seat 1/4". I ordered the steel pins instead.
Hey, this is a timely video! I'm looking to upgrade my Ruger 10/22 which I bought from an estate auction last year. It looks almost exactly like the one featured, the only exception being the bull barrel is fluted & has the Magpul X-22 Hunter stock w/adj cheekpiece. I've ordered a higher cheekpiece since I installed a SIG 3-9x40 scope. I'll order the extended mag release, bolt buffer, extended charging handle, and auto bolt release. Thanks again! BTW, are those parts you used in this video available as cheaper "open box" parts?😏😅
The bolt catch is weird, but it's not finicky when you know how it's supposed to work. RTFM, and it's fine. I modified mine, because there is no reason for the catch to work the way it does, and it's different than every other rifle I own, but it works exactly how it's designed to work. Pull the bolt back, press and release the bolt catch. Release the bolt. I have never had that not work with the factory bolt catch.
I do not understand why after all these years Ruger doesn't update the bolt catch so you don't need to press it to release the bolt. It's a dumb design and nobody else uses such a method of operation.
Since I am an old outdoorsman of habit, I guess I overlooked the "star" button to save this video, why didn't your sponsor simply use the YT "star" for saving the video??
Replacing the recoil pin at the back of the receiver with that rubber bolt buffer junk is a bad idea. Read about the patent for the 10/22's impressive recoil dwell system. The back of the bolt is a cam surface. The patent has the bolt hit the METAL pin, slamming the bolt DOWN. That prevents the bolt from bouncing. Replacing that system with a rubber pin is a bad idea.
I have never looked into it, but sometimes wondered why it is that they still put the metal pin in there after all these years of the 10/22 being around and the plastic or rubber replacements being around for maybe about half those years. I figured Ruger has a valid reason for sticking with the metal pin instead of going to some plastic thing that would be cheaper. Look at the trigger group for instance, the one on my 10/22 from the early 70's is all metal whereas everything made since the 90's has been plastic.
Thank you for the follow up question, a sign that you care. I respect that so much. US Patent: US3240121A Henry Sefried II is the inventor. Patent Dated 3-15-1966 Figure 3 best shows the cam path that causes the bolt dwell, stopping any bolt bounce.
Maybe you are looking at the wrong patent. Figure 1 is the cross secrion of the action of the 10/22. Ruger also lists this as the main patent for the 10/22. Figure 1 in the patent is a good view to show how it works in a line drawing. The words in the patent are half IP Attorney and half engineer. They have to write that way for patents. Take a second look, and I think Figure 1 will help show that it is directly for the 10/22. P.S. The other main 10/22 parent is for the rotary box magazine. Ruger did some cool innovations, over a half century ago.