forgot about the brake lines basically all the GMT800 series was equipped with faulty brake lines( the hose expands instead of doing the braking ).. GM clearly knew about the issue but did not fix it tell the GMT900 series
This doesn't seem like a "Top 5 list" at all, this is just the 5 issues this truck had. Any online forum will give you much better insight to common issues with vehicle and which have a high potential for issues. *The comments have more info* This is as click-baity of a title as you can get
Question I have a 2006 Chevy Avalanche 1500 it makes a weird noise when I press on the gas when I accelerate do anyone know what that problem maybe or can anyone tell me
My 02 I bought brand new has 320 k .. Not going to lie .... It's not so pretty and starting to rust bad but turn the key and it goes... All original drive train.. Love that Chevy..
Yep! Have had my '06 since it was 2 years old, have had all those problems. Still the nicest vehicle I've ever owned, pushing 200K and I'm not about to give it up!
I have had my 2004 Avalanche for over 10 years now. Bought it with 94k miles on it, and now I'm still driving it at 182k. Great truck despite the issues that come with it and every vehicle sold to mankind. It's either get the maintenance done by a mechanic or DIY. As far as the trim goes, I use olive oil on it to coat away the fade look. I know it's cheesy and temporary, but it has worked for me over the years.
I have a 2002 Avalanche that I purchased new, I am the original sole owner, 126K miles. I just completed a full frame off restoration. The frame was actually replaced, I bought a new replacement part frame from GM. There was no saving the old frame because it completely rusted through. Rear bumper bar and trailer hitch also rusted out. Entire chassis was rebuilt, all new suspension parts. I repaired extensive rust on the body shell, including rebuilding the rear floor area under the midgate hinge mounts, repairing rust holes in LH side floor under the pedals and RH side upper firewall. Replaced the inner and outer rocker panels both sides. 3 of 4 doors required patching on the bottoms. Both front fenders, core support and hood replaced. Fist-sized rust hole at fuel door repaired. Top end rebuild on Whipple supercharged 5.3L engine. Original running transmission to be replaced soon. Original rear end got new seals, original running transfer case to get some love soon. And much more. $30K invested on parts and materials, all labor performed single-handedly by myself over the course of 3 years. Still not 100% finished but getting close and I do currently have it back on the road. With a 100% new chassis underneath, it drives like new. Never had any serious mechanical issues with the truck, pretty happy with it over 20 years, which is why it was worth it to me to save it before it rusted away. But I've had this truck ALL apart and had a few learning experiences along the way. I'm not a tech, just a DIY guy, but you can ask me anything.
Want to restore your Avalanche cladding? Whatever you do, DO NOT TRY TO PAINT IT. That trick never works and you will ruin it. Read further for my real world experience: A good product I have used on my 2002 Avalanche cladding is G-techinq C4. I replaced all the door and bumper cladding with new GM replacements, and I even replaced the utility box covers (I bought the last NOS pair available from GM) but the sail panels and bridge panels were unavailable so I had to restore them. Also the running board covers had to be restored because they too are discontinued and unavailable. The G-techniq C4 did such an excellent job of restoring the badly faded and zebra striped sail panels that you can see no difference right next to the new utility box lids. The tonneau covers did not restore as convincingly but they still look 100% better and will pass when viewed from a distance. The running board covers turned out looking great, and amazingly still look good after a year of being stepped on. And that's the amazing thing about the C4 is its durability. It's over a year old, been washed and even stepped on and hasn't worn off yet. Now, they tell you right on the label that it is not permanent, but I am surprised at how durable it actually is. If you want to restore your Avalanche cladding, get this stuff. It's not cheap, about $50 for a 30ml bottle, and you'll probably need 2 bottles to do the whole truck, but it's good stuff.
I just picked up an 05 Z71 , this video covers the bases well with the issues I have to address. Instead of treating the plastics I plan to have them sanded and painted, the end result of rejuvenation of plastic is more fading so why bother? Awesome video though! Love the direct answers and the close shots of problem areas.
Bought a 2003 a few months ago. Had 4 of these 5 problems. I replaced the tailgate with a metal one(Amazon) my handle was plastic and broken and it locks now. Still working on the rest but I LOVE this truck.
I had a 2002 Chevy Avalanche a few years back one of the best vehicles I've ever owned hands down in the end I had to get rid of it because the frame cracked was not properly care for before I bought it. Bought with 150k miles and got it to 225k Miles still ran great but the frame was bad those are common on these vehicles as well as Transmissions letting go two things worth mentioning. But even knowing that I'm checking one out tomorrow and if the frame looks good I'm buying it.
I'm the original owner of an '02 and the frame rusted out, so I replaced it with a new frame I bought from GM. The reason why they rust out is because the wax dip is not protective on the outside. It is good to have the wax on the inside but it is not durable against abrasion and salt spray, so it wears off quickly on the outside. The new frame I purchased had the same wax dip, so I had to strip the outside and re-coat it with a very tough urethane coating. This was a HUGE job. I had the new frame on a rotisserie and it literally took 6 months to get it right because I initially had adhesion problems because every trace of wax has to be removed to get proper adhesion to the metal. But after some troubles I did get it done right. My new frame is tough enough to whack with a hammer and not chip the coating. If I had to do it again there are some things I learned but it is still a ridiculously difficult job. You have to really want to do it, and you will work your fingers to the bone scraping and solvent cleaning hundreds of tight pocketed areas. You won't be able to trust somebody else to do all that, because getting it right might mean stripping it and doing it all over again, and somebody else will just cover it up and pass it off to get paid every single time.
Using the heat gun on the plastics is the worst suggestion and myth running over internet. Please don't ever do that! Not only that after 6 months it will look worse than before, but it is an irreversible process too 😟 Also, the sensors stuff might be worth mentioning, but please do not run into triagnosis by just replacing sensors depending on the trouble code. It will cost you more money in the end than having the real problem diagnosed properly.
Also, do not paint the cladding! No matter how hard you try to sand and prep the plastic, ultimately the adhesion of the paint will fail and it will look horrible when the paint starts to peel off. And that mistake is also irreversible because the sanding and prep will permanently deface the finish of the plastic. The best route is to use a trim restorer even though it will wear off and need to be reapplied. A good product I have used on my 2002 Avalanche cladding is G-techinq C4. I replaced all the door and bumper cladding with new GM replacements, and I even replaced the utility box covers (I bought the last NOS pair available from GM) but the sail panels and bridge panels were unavailable so I had to restore them. Also the running board covers had to be restored because they too are discontinued and unavailable. The G-techniq C4 did such an excellent job of restoring the badly faded and zebra striped sail panels that you can see no difference right next to the new utility box lids. The tonneau covers did not restore as convincingly but they still look 100% better and will pass when viewed from a distance. The running board covers turned out looking great, and amazingly still look good after a year of being stepped on. And that's the amazing thing about the C4 is its durability. It's over a year old, been washed and even stepped on and hasn't worn off yet. Now, they tell you right on the label that it is not permanent, but I am surprised at how durable it actually is. If you want to restore your Avalanche cladding, get this stuff. It's not cheap, about $50 for a 30ml bottle, and you'll probably need 2 bottles to do the whole truck, but it's good stuff. On the front impact sensors for the airbag system, my 2002 only has one in the bottom center of the radiator support. Apparently they went to 2 front sensors in the later years.
@@kevinlogozzo3952 it pulls oils from the plastic. It's not even that the look doesn't last, it legit destroys your plasit. Never use a heat gun. This guy is NOT a detailer.
I have a 2002 Avalanche I bought as a demo model with 8000 miles on it.....I still have it now....390,000+ miles on it.....and I'd hop in and drive from Georgia to California tonight if I needed to. I've had other vehicles during this time.....but, the Avalanche is the one I've always trusted to get me there and back.....And I still pull a 24' pull-behind camper to Florida several times a year with it. The only big repair is that the transmission was replaced at around 250,000 miles. I've also had it repainted the original color and replaced all the oxidized headlights. Awesome vehicle!!
I’ve had my 06 Avalanche since birth n she just rolled over 200K n aside from minor aches, she’s has been maintenance free. I’m still running the original brakes. One issue I’m beginning to experience is “check stability” message. Great overview! And yes I do treat her like a lady.
DO NOT USE A HEAT GUN. I highly recommending either having them professionally sprayed or coated (linex or equivalent). The more economic route would be a plastic specific spray paint or bedliner style coating. The key is to take your time with the prep work if you do it yourself. Products such as Mothers Back to Black or Turtle Wax are very temporary and will last if your lucky a week or two. I would also say one of the problems specific to the Avalanche is the rear window bezel cracks and may allow water to enter the cab. Also the cladding (plastics) hold moisture. Depending on the climate this can lead to different severity levels of rust. Also the tonneau cover is not 100% waterproof. Good maintenance will help with drainage. Hope this helps. - An 04 cladded Avalanche Owner.
I have a 2002 Avalanche 2500 with the 8.1 liter. I'm the original owner and have 165,000 great miles on it. Being a skier and my daughter an elite level ski racer, we've driven to just about every ski area, resort in the western US and Canada. Has never let me down through white out blizzards, sub zero temps and scorching sun. Plastics started fading after a few years, I just call it "petina" and the tailgate would freeze up and make it a bear to close. Other than the normal wear and tear, (fuel pump, water pump and front end stuff) I'll probably be buried in it!
I have the 2002 Avalanche 1500 Z-71 with the 5.3L, and that engine was under powered in a 6000lb truck, so I added a Whipple supercharger to make it pull a little more like that 8.1 of yours. And I've had mine thru some serious snow too. It never let me down except once when I headed out to work in the biggest snow we ever had, I got about 3/4 mile down my road toward the highway and the snow was so high the truck started to beach itself on the skid plates. So I put it in reverse and backed it home in my own wheel tracks.
Love my 2004 issues aside and running great at 168,000. Bought mine used in 2016 with 124 thousand miles. Issues: three power windows stuck in down position over a 4 year period, tailgate won't lock because of the loose parts as mentioned in video, fueling has to be hand held due to pump constantly shutting off. That said this is a great vehicle.
I really appreciate the time and effort explaining everything very well. I have a 2004 chevy Avalanche 4x4. Try to put gas in the tank it will not let me do it at a constant rate, it keeps shutting the pump off.
Mine had the same issue, the canister comes apart from old age and the charcoal pellets get inside the lines, you have to replace the canister and drop the fuel tank so that you can get all the hoses off and blow them with compressed air so that all the pellets come out.
Using the heat gun is terrible for the plastic - yes, it brings it back to like new but damages the structure since the oils from deeper in the plastic are brought to the surface where they'll eventually evaporate/break down by the sun.
I've got a 02 Avalanche Z71 with about 285000 miles and the only problems I've had Is low power but she still runs with no check engine light. Love my Chevy Avalanche
Issues I had with mine were the need to upgrade the valve cover with the pcv. Because it would drip oil down the intake and smoke on startup. Another was the upgrade to metal intake manifold gasket. Mine just didn't like the plastic ones and finally didn't leak with the new one. And the one I saw a lot of, is aftermarket parts. This engine does not do well with it. Especially knock sensors. This engine has a design flaw that leads water to your knock sensors. Leaving the whole area to rust. Clean it. Then you have to create a dam yourself with red RTV and get ACDelco knock sensors, and new wire harness for them to really fix it. Aftermarket knock sensors commonly fail on this engine.
I bought my 2003 Chevy Avalanche str8 off the floor 2003..still runs like a champ..never had ANY major problems..IF U TAKE CARE OF HER🛻..SHE'LL TAKE CARE OF HER SELF😎💙💯
@@GameTesterDev same company and the 300 and Grand Cherokee are the only non-Dodge models to get that trim. The 300 SRT8 was discontinued quite a few years ago now.
@@streak256 I had to read it twice because I also thought they were trying to say they had a Chevy SRT8. Using real words makes a big difference for communicating in the adult world.
I own an 2004 model. Absolutely love it BUT. as far as the plastic i first tried a heat gun. It lasted about 2 months before it started to fade back out.. I ordered something called OEM bumper guard from e bay it's like 20 dollars a spray can. Took about 3 cans to do the whole truck. Looked great and new for about 2 and a half years. Plan on redoing it again in a few months. The great problem i am dealing with at the moment is the slow pumping at the gas pump. Chevy dropped the ball on that....arse holes...
The transfer case has a production defect, the oil pump bracket chews on the housing of the transfer case, resulting in an oil leak. There is a oil pump saver bracket you can buy for less than 20 bucks to protect the casing if you still didnt experience the problem. But it is a big job to install. I have no idea what year they changed this but it´s a real problem for most.1999-2006 models.
I have a 2004 Southern comfort addition. 228,000 miles I finally showed it some love with new platinum spark plugs, eddlbrok wires... Wire literally where brittle but it ran every day and never gave me a problem. One of the best and most reliable vehicles I've owned and it hauls feed for my livestock and is put to work. Its no garage queen
1. A/C blend door actuators very problematic 2. Window regulators 3. Water Pump, had two aftermarket replacements go bad and finally went back to the Delco pump. 4. Wheel/Axle Bearings 5. Speakers 4L60 trans will need a rebuild at some point be it sooner or later depending on useage. At approx 160k miles with non aggressive useage also required: 1.Trans rebuild 2. Tailgate latch assembly 3. Ball joints 4. U joints 5. A/C schrader valves 6. Starter 7. Driver door switch assembly 8. Rear window seal droop 9. Rear main seal 10. Brakes/tune-up/etc normal maintenance
I agree with everyone else on the heat gun. NEVER use heat, it will not last and it completely ruins your plastics. I'd suggest a video edit and completely remove that section because people trust 1A auto for good advice.
Oh yea, Well while these may be somewhat "kind of basic stuff" fixes I want everyone as well as 1A Auto to know that this short 5 min. video on the most COMMON problems with this model just gave me 2 not one but TWO fixes to repair the Avalanche I was considering purchasing. I think I will buy it now. Thanks so much A1
If you take care of it it will last and last. I have over 350k miles on my 2004 WBH with the original drivetrain. There are 2 parts that are really worn out on it. The rubber on the gas & brake pedals, and the leather in the driver seat.
Have a 04 1500 avy. 301k miles. Replace tranny twice. One was my fault. Problem is right side blows hot air when on cold.rpm side Instrument cluster buld burnt out. Drinks fuel like crazy.
for restoring cladding..i just started using Flood* Penetrol ( paint section at Menards) on my bed panels. I scrubbed with Dawn* soap water with scrub brush and rinsed off. let dry completely. I wiped them down and let dry and then wiped down again. LOOKS GREAT ! Going to finish the truck tomorrow and see how long it last in Nov. and Dec. weather in S.East Missouri.
I have a 04 Avalanche I bought new in PHX . It's 16 years old , it looks like new , aways dealership serviced, and garaged . That truck looks like its from back east so sad
Mine was giving a lean code. The o2 sensor was bad. It was dumping fuel in and barely running. I went from 17 mpg to 8!!! I changed the sensor that was reading too lean (bank 1) and it went too normal again!
We just had a transmission shop repair the trany because 3rd and 4th was gone. We just picked it up from the transmission shop and when we started it, the check engine light is on, which has never been on and the engine is ticking. Called the trany shop, he took the trany off and started the truck, still has the same noise, so he said it's our deal, not his, but it didnt have this loud noise when taking off, until we had the trany rebuilt. The noise is getting louder, please help. He told us it's the bearings in the engine. But it didnt have that noise when we gave him our truck. Please help
Im sorry too hear that, i just picked up my 03 with 288k for $2000 and is the same as yours has no third or 4th. im afraid too change the transmission because of exactly your experience 🥺
I bought a used 1st gen avalanche it was better than I expected you have the best of suv and pick up at the same time. The only issue I had is the button Seek/Volume on the steering wheel malfunctioning but other than that is keep going.
Thank you for your time to make this video. I have a 2002 Avalanche, no rust practically brand new 58,000miles. Has the tail gate issue I have to make sure I slam it shut. Always garaged. Other than that ,no problems yet.
Bought a used 02 in ‘16. Gave it up this past March due to antifreeze in the oil pan(with low oil pressure)! ☹️. Mechanic said you got a seal leak somewhere, gotta pull the engine out. Original engine internals-349,000 miles, 19 Y O truck... not gonna happen!
You don't mention the 0332 code for the Knocks sensors which are a common problem on these and quite a bit of work to fix due to there being located under the intake manifold. This was fixed later by chevy moving them to the outside of the heads so you can get to them. Heatgun works but if your not careful you can damage your finish and yeah it will just fade again anyway. Using the wipe on wipe off stuff works pretty well and is MUCH faster and safer. I have an 04 1500 Avy so I know this from experience. I'd say the the #1 most common problem with the Avy is leaking Tonneau covers which wont stop you going down the road but can actually cause water to get in your cab if you don't keep the drains clean especially the midgate drain.
I Need some HELP ! Why doesn’t my 2003 Chevy Avalanche want to start . It starts and then it turns off on me while driving has a new battery wondering what can be the cause of it shutting off
+9k tharuby We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hi I have a 2005 avalanche the tailgate won't open I'm told there's a plastic part that breaks often but I don't know the name of it could you tell me the name thanks in advance
Problems I've had with my 03, E-brake shoes rusting loose, crank sensor, bad ground on fuel pump, exhaust valve bolts seem to break close to firewall causing leaks, brake lines rust, rust behind plastic cladding,digital compass and temp malfunctioning, very heavy truck overall...taking in account all these issues I definitely love my avalanche.
My exhaust studs broke near the firewall. You can buy a bracket on Amazon for ~$30. It bolts to the cylinder head and has another bolt that torques down onto the exhaust stud and seals it back up. A lot cheaper than pulling the heads and extracting the stud.
This is spooky.Those all are exactly the problems I have had with my 02 2500. I only have 65k. I went to look at new trucks and nothing has the comfort or overall quality of my Avalanche. I bought it new and am keeping it forever.
I had to upgrade the bolt that anchors the E brake shoes on my '02 to a 1/4"-20 threaded bolt from the mickey mouse sheet metal screw that GM put there. I knocked a wheel lug stud out to make an access hole to drill and tap the casting for the hold down bolt thru that hole. Dorman makes a 2-pc splash shield that installs without pulling the rear axles. Years later I replaced the splash shields again with one pc OEM because I had the axles out, and upgraded the bolt again to stainless. I also upgraded the hydraulic lines to stainless. I made them from scratch, had to pull the whole chassis wire harness to gain access where the lines run atop the LH side frame rail, and the front had to be 2 sections with a connector in the center of the front crossmember or it wasn't going in. Dorman makes a good pre-bent stainless brake line kit and years later I bought that and installed it. I had the body off the frame at that point so I was able to route the front line in one section.
After my check engine light came on, I was recommended a major tune up on my '05 Avalanche. Then was told I needed to replace 2 heads. Now the shop has had my truck for a week and a half. Owner SAYS that the truck runs fine but check engine light is still on. Please tell me why. I need my truck running properly and I'm afraid they're going to do some Mickey Mouse stuff just to give it back to me and let something else go wrong.
I just bought my avalanche a few of months ago. I love it! I'm having a problem that has me baffled. I noticed right away that the carpet, front and back floor, is always wet. I've taken out the floor mats and opened the doors to let it dry out but, it has never completely dried. I've sat in the truck while it rained. I've searched for leaks Goin through an automatic car wash with no luck. What the heck is going on? I hope you have an answer for me. I'm baffled!
My dad's Tahoe of this generation had a bad heater core that leaked water from under the dash into the carpeting. Might check under your dash with the heater/ac running for a while
Mine did the same thing. Mine was the rubber trim around the doors. Water was leaking through. Find some sealant from auto zone an apply a coat inside of the rubber trim. Fixed my problem.
I'm just a teenager but I love our avalanche and we have been using it a lot recently but we need a new truck and getting a f250 Heavy duty but I love avalanche
I have a 2002 Avalanche Z71; I bought it new in July 2001. Mine, being a California vehicle has zero rust, and I have never experienced any of these issues.
So-Cal is one place you won't have to worry about the frame rusting thru. I'm in northern IL, I'm also the original owner of an '02, and I had to buy a new frame for mine. I just put a 3 year restoration in it, so I can say mine has zero rust too.
A lot more than that after 100 000 miles! lol Fix the EVAP System leak (PO455) as soon as it goes off or you're headed for a lot of problems . I just found out.
So other than the plastics and maybe the tailgate, these are common issues on most Silverados, Sierras, Tahoes, Suburbans and Yukons in this year range. Not only the Avalanche.
I know you guys live up north all the car you feature on your channel are badly rusted. I could never live up north I love my vehicles to much to let them rust out.
Hi my friend I was watching tour video so, tengo una Avalanche 2002, 2500, 8.1 Lts en Querétaro, Mexico y últimamente la troka le falta potencia como que no corre cuando le pisas el gas ya le he checado de todo y ni un mecánico le encuentra la falla. Can you help me with this problemas, thank's.
My 2006 with 154,000 miles is making constant chirping sound. Chirp chirp chirp chirp chirp chirp ... ???? No engine light on? Belts are fine. Any thoughts? Sounds like coming from top of engine maybe? Ty
+Mary Wilson We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Bought my 2002 new. Now at 245000 miles in 2022; Problems : Fuel pump replaced; power steering pump replaced, heated hose connectors at fire wall disintegration; Water pump replaced twice, AC compressor replace, front brake caliper stuck and replaced, rear main seal leaking oil , vent controller for fuel tank replaced, tow haul switch replaced, headlight fogged over replaced,fog light socket replaced, interior AC vent direction controller replaced, Rain gutter rails replaced...
